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Holy shit! This thread I a cluster####!
I will add to the madness!
I pulled off the whole drivers side of my engine, minus the oil pump cover, just to get to the alt bracket bolt. It snapped off in the wp housing/block.
While taking all that crap off, I found that my timing belt tensioner was out of adjustment. There's a thread about that, won't go into it here.
I also pulled the castle nut and oil pump pulley and replaced the o-ring and seal for those guys. I scraped all the old gasket off the block and reinstalled the water pump.
I need to get a new timing belt and tensioner to finish all this off.
BTW, it all started with a failing alternator.
 
How thick sheet aluminium? Are you satisfied with the thickness or do you wish youhad something more sturdy? Did you use a plasma cutter for the cut out?

It was .04" thick, so 18 gage. I am satisfied with the thickness. I wouldn't put a ton of weight on it though as I didn't spend a whole lot of time reinforcing it (I don't plan on having anything heavy back there, this is NOT my DD)

18 gage aluminum is thin enough to cut with a quality aviation snips. Also for anyone who tries with aluminum, forget using a cut off wheel. It'll take you days you cut it.

This is the aluminum sheet that I purchased. It was way cheaper and easier than trying to source it locally. Shipping prices were reasonable. 36"x36" is sheet size you will need. (very light, 5 pounds for the whole sheet, where as mild steel is going to be just shy of 15 pounds for the same size)

If you go thicker you'll probably want to have it water jetted or plasma cut. I didn't want to go through that hassle so I went thinner so I could use hand tools. If you want it to be sturdy, you just have to brace it properly.

Pictures? Is it easier to access from the top? Or is it just easier since the spare tire well is gone.
If I recall correctly, Corey had that really nice Frontline Fab piece made for his spare tire well delete, and I think it took him a decade and a half to actually get it :p Also, it's not easier to access from the top, just easier because the spare tire well is gone. I could drop my diff in minutes now, rather than before it would take MUCH longer. (you could just cut a hole the spare tire well to access the rear diff bolts as another option)

And about the aluminum flooring, that saves a lot of weight also right? Looks like wood screws holding it down LOL

It saves about 15 pounds of steel not including the spare tire or jack.

They are button head 8-32 machine screws fastened to rivet nuts. Also, I used nylon washers to help prevent any galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and the stainless screws
 
I stroked her hood. Then told her she's been a good girl, for the last 2 years. Now its time for her to relax and let daddy take care of her for awhile. Then I got in my DD, and came to work. Don't worry I left the light and the radio on so she wouldn't get lonely.
 
Made some center caps and am working on converting the larger evo 8 center caps on my talon to have the Eagle logo! Evo wheels with Eagle centers. :thumb:

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Wasting no time gettin down to business
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I need the turbine nut size apparently 20mm wrenches are non existant

Wow fml looks like a 19

Edit: got everuthing out. Undamaged I'll post pix i. Justins thread of the turbine shaft

Got silencer ring out without breaking the snap ring or silencer haha.
 
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got some interior parts at a junkyard and installed them. also found an old 1g sitting at the back. i felt bad for it just sitting there rusting. :(
 
Cleaning the compressor wheel of the hx52 is proving to e a pain in the ass, the cover however turned out nicely
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