Welding on thicker oil pan flange

[Boomdeeze]

Does anyone know who was offering the service to weld on a thicker flange to the stock oil pan?

I’ve been battling for years on keeping the pan from leaking and come to the point where I am willing to cave and buy the moroso pan. Not too long ago I came across someone welding on a thicker flange which helped seal gaskets (silicone).

I can’t figure out where I saw it so looking for a little help here!

 

[TerminalTalon]

Silicone gaskets suck.
If the flange is straight and true I’d just put Ultra Grey Permatex on it.

 

[enriquez2000]

Buy this and never worry again

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[Boomdeeze]

Silicone gaskets suck.
If the flange is straight and true I’d just put Ultra Grey Permatex on it.

For some reason I still can’t get that damn pan to seal with using RTV.

Buy this and never worry again

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This is what I want to go to, just crazy how they are $800 now!

 

[bastarddsm]

I'm pretty sure many complained about the moroso pan leaking.

clean the old crap off the flange, tap the flange flat using a welding table or something. wipe both surfaces down with a clean rag and laquer thinner. Apply a film of ultra grey to the pan surface. I usually put a 3/16" ish bead and then spread it around with my finger. end up a pretty thin layer. Put pan on get all bolts started then snug up in a x pattern. wiat over night before adding oil. Usually they are mint then.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Make sure you use the OEM sealant. Not all sealants are equal and don’t let it sit for 5-10min before installing the pan like the manual says. I’ve watched some sealant videos and that practice does not seem to help but hurt.

 

[Boomdeeze]

I liked the idea of the silicone gasket in case I ever have to pop the pan off but done with the headache. I will give the sealant another try before I weld this dang pan to the block. Is ultra grey the go to here? I've used "The Right Stuff" before which leaked on me.

 

[enriquez2000]

I liked the idea of the silicone gasket in case I ever have to pop the pan off but done with the headache. I will give the sealant another try before I weld this dang pan to the block. Is ultra grey the go to here? I've used "The Right Stuff" before which leaked on me.

With wavy pans I have used the right stuff and smoothed it out with my fingers. Its a b**** to get off later though

 

[97egl]

I liked the idea of the silicone gasket in case I ever have to pop the pan off but done with the headache. I will give the sealant another try before I weld this dang pan to the block. Is ultra grey the go to here? I've used "The Right Stuff" before which leaked on me.

I have to pull the pans off my circle track cars yearly to check/change bottom end bearings and what I do is ultra black the cork gaskets felpro has to the pan and then i use a very thin bead of ultra grey between the gasket and block. They almost always come off very easily and are pretty much leak free. Every now and then I'll get a slight weep on the flywheel side of the pan but probably wouldn't see that on a street car since the oil isn't all being thrown to that side lap after lap.

On my street cars I don't even use a gasket I just do what bastarddsm said and run a bead around the pan after cleaning everything well and have had no issues doing that other than having a hard time getting the pan off. If you use several pry points to break it free you shouldn't bend the pan from my experience.

If you had a leak with the right stuff you probably didn't have enough on there or didn't finger tighten and then torque an hour later. I've always done that and always had a leak free seal. I would go with ultra grey just because its a little cheaper. The right stuff is supposed to set up quicker so you don't have to wait to add oil or start the car so it's great for shop guys that are turning jobs around quick but no reason for a guy in his garage to use it over ultra grey

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

And...if you use the "right stuff", the next time you go to remove the pan, if it wasn't bent, it will be. I really can't stand that stuff. Ultra Grey for the win!

 

[Vegas Smith]

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[JohntyBee]

I’ve used Right stuff the last time I had to take my pan off for a leak and it’s good to go now. I made sure to clean everything really well and I straighten out the pan before applying

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I agree with Marty and Bastard. Ultra grey permatex. It’s cheap and can be bought at Walmart.

Honestly it’s the only gasket maker that I keep in my tool box.

I used one of them cork gaskets years ago. Had nothing but leaks and it’s so damn big you have to crank your little ass pan bolts pretty good. Ended up snapping one in my block when trying to tighten it down. After fixing that I realized why the factory just used rtv.

So IMO no gasket just ultra grey. Also make sure you clean the block as well. Seen people mentioning the pan but the block prep is just as important.

P.S I’ve never had the urge to buy the “right stuff”. I’ve seen so many people rave about that shit. If you do the prep and install correctly there is no need for some fancy ass sealant.

-Daniel

 

[Thecarfixerguy]

With wavy pans I have used the right stuff and smoothed it out with my fingers. Its a b**** to get off later though

Get a wire wheel bit for a die grinder. They are like $7 and that old permatex will disappear in seconds. It’s good for cleaning lots of other things too.

P.S I’ve never had the urge to buy the “right stuff”. I’ve seen so many people rave about that shit. If you do the prep and install correctly there is no need for some fancy ass sealant.

In my world of auto repair for regular daily passenger cars right stuff is our go to sealer. Ultra grey really should be allowed a 24 hour cure time, and in the world of flat rate auto repair where Karen needs the sienna back today so Kyle can get to soccer practice we want to get that car in and out and move on to the next job. That’s where right stuff really shines. I would have a hard time justifying having a caulking gun full of right stuff just for occasional hobby use, but we use it every day. It’s very forgiving, and less likely to cause a comeback than other options.

I think if people are having trouble getting rtv to seal the biggest issues are surface prep and application. You need to get all the oil off the surface, which can be hard when it keeps running down from above. You need to get accustomed to where to lay the bead to get contact right on both sides. A good RTV will seal almost anything permanently if used properly.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I love the "Karen" reference and do have to agree that shop time is TIME so if it has to go, IT HAS TO GO! In the real common sense world (where the fk is that?) we wait over night for it to cure and really don't get back to that until later in a rebuild, because its Permatex Ultra Grey, but emergencies arise!! Even at Racetracks!
The previous comment sums it up well.
Karen's of the world are a mechanic's best customer!

 

[steve]

Like many others I've had great luck using Ultra Grey. You have to make sure everything is free of oil and don't let it skin over. Also too much is as bad as too little. You don't want it squeezing out and winding up in the oil pickup. I've seen way too many engines where somebody thought RTV was some magic glue.

The factory specs out a continuous bead a little wider than 1/8" with it staying inside the bolt holes and installing the pan no more than 15mins after applying the RTV. Also remember that the bolts only get 4-6 ft lbs torque. It's the RTV that makes the seal not cranking the bolts down..

They (Mitsubishi and I believe Permatex) also say wait 30 mins before putting any oil in but I agree over night is better.

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[jpmxrider489]

I figured I would add to some of this. I was also having a hard time sealing the pan. I actually installed studs for the pan and valve cover. Not sure if it helped or not.

For the sealant I personally like the right stuff that sets fast. However, most/some sealants say to hand tight the bolts and let cure for a hour. Then torque them. Also says to wait 24 hours or something before filling with fluids.

FWIW, I personally use black stuff. Yes, it's harder to maintain or clean. If that's important to you, then use grey. I however don't care for the extra hassle because it doesn't leak or come apart but once or twice a year.

With this method, I have no leaks at all.

 

[TerminalTalon]

The block and the pan need to be straight. Cleaning the surfaces is key. Oil will drip or run down the inside of the block and before you actually seal it would need to be wiped down again until nothing is on the rag or whatever you are going to use to clean.

 

[bryanwheat]

It's super easy to get these pan's sealed, i think like the guy before me said, having the surface as clean and free of oil is the most important part. I wipe them down with 99 percent isopropyl until the paper towel comes out clean, apply a bead, put the pan on torque it down, let it sit over night and it will damn near become a part of the block that will require a lot of effort to remove next time. Decent rtv is important, but having clean surfaces is the most important. Some will tell you to let it dry before tightening the bolts, and that will cause it to squeeze out in spot's. The oem mitsubishi rtv is really good stuff, hondabond is really good, and the permatex ultra grey, and i like the the mega grey as well. The right stuff is good too. Clean, clean and than clean again with a solvent so there is not even a slight oily film on anything.