General Two mysterious problems (2g)

[Nico_]

Yo, I think the problem is with the part that goes behind the wheel. Jk bro, good luck s2

 

[polverari]

Guys, im eating at ar the moment. I recorded a video and i'll post here the link of youtube sosoon no!

 

[shinzon]

a mechanical adjustment? Because in ecmlink (notebook) everything is ok

Yeah, a mechanical adjustment. What you do is put a feeler gauge between the throttle and the throttle stop screw (.0177" if I remember correctly), connect a multimeter to pins 3 and 4 of the TPS, loosen the two TPS bolts, and adjust until you just barely have continuity with the throttle closed, and you lose continuity as soon as you begin moving the throttle.

If DSMLink is showing 0-100% and it hasn't been re-scaled, then your TPS is probably adjusted correctly. Someone more familiar with DSMLink could answer this question: if you have a mis-adjusted throttle cable (I.E. one that doesn't allow the throttle plate to close all the way when the pedal is released), and you re-scaled the TPS using DSMLink's built in feature, would this cause the symptoms the OP is experiencing?

My next thought is you somehow have a massive amount of air leaking passed your throttle plate, but you'd see evidence of this at idle (idle surge).

Not sure about what could be causing the RPMs to hang otherwise...

edit:

Should he simulate switch w tps? That box wasn't checked in link

I don't think so, but again someone more familiar with DSMLink would have to answer that. If he's using a 2G throttle body, and 2G TPS, then I can't think of a reason he'd need to simulate it.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If @GST with PSI were here, he would remind everyone how important the manual adjustment to your TPS is. Brett always asks if the TPS has been adjusted correctly and manually. Adjusting it in link is ok if you just have to adjust it 1 or 2 %, but the ECU relies on the correct adjustment. I am not saying that, out of no where, the TPS got misadjusted, but it is very important that it be very close then "fine tuned" with EcmLink.

 

[Tanro]

Your plugs are gapped to .05? That could be an issue right there. The stock gap is .028 but wouldn't hurt to gap them to .024-.026 and see how the car runs.

Your first problem sounds like a throttle position sensor(TPS) malfunction or mis-adjusted.

He's not from the states.. .5mm = .019"

 

[polverari]

Yeah, a mechanical adjustment. What you do is put a feeler gauge between the throttle and the throttle stop screw (.0177" if I remember correctly), connect a multimeter to pins 3 and 4 of the TPS, loosen the two TPS bolts, and adjust until you just barely have continuity with the throttle closed, and you lose continuity as soon as you begin moving the throttle.

If DSMLink is showing 0-100% and it hasn't been re-scaled, then your TPS is probably adjusted correctly. Someone more familiar with DSMLink could answer this question: if you have a mis-adjusted throttle cable (I.E. one that doesn't allow the throttle plate to close all the way when the pedal is released), and you re-scaled the TPS using DSMLink's built in feature, would this cause the symptoms the OP is experiencing?

My next thought is you somehow have a massive amount of air leaking passed your throttle plate, but you'd see evidence of this at idle (idle surge).

Not sure about what could be causing the RPMs to hang otherwise...

edit:

I don't think so, but again someone more familiar with DSMLink would have to answer that. If he's using a 2G throttle body, and 2G TPS, then I can't think of a reason he'd need to simulate it.

Thank you! I'll do this adjustment!

 

[polverari]

If @GST with PSI were here, he would remind everyone how important the manual adjustment to your TPS is. Brett always asks if the TPS has been adjusted correctly and manually. Adjusting it in link is ok if you just have to adjust it 1 or 2 %, but the ECU relies on the correct adjustment. I am not saying that, out of no where, the TPS got misadjusted, but it is very important that it be very close then "fine tuned" with EcmLink.

I'll follow the instructions to make this adjustment. I'm really sad with this 8-seconds-delay It's not mais mainly problem, but...

 

[polverari]

Here, the video of my problem:

IMPORTANT THINGS

1 - I back to the original timing line on ecmlink. The car is a little bit better, but still with the problem.

2 - I discover a very important thing. In the EXACT moment of the problem, the wideband was 0.82 and go to 0.86. Probably my problem if with fuel (pressure, electrical, fuel pump, lack of fuel in the last cilynder due any problem... idk) or spark plugs.

By the way, the point of the video is to see the moment of the malfunction. 2:01
It's hard to listen... But turn up the volume and its ok!

Link:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[shinzon]

Thank you! I'll do this adjustment!

Here's the procedure from the '96 Talon service manual:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

So glad to see you have a Factory Service Manual, they are the best source for information!
Yes that is the procedure. Ultimately you want ECMLink to see no adjustment at all also.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Looking at his log, isn't his tps set correctly?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Is his injector settings correct?

 

[shinzon]

Looking at his log, isn't his tps set correctly?

It's been re-scaled--maybe about 6% off if I'm reading this right.

Edit: wait. I just noticed he has "Disable idle switch while moving" set. Someone more familiar with DSMLink would have to confirm, but isn't that his problem? Wouldn't that disable fuel cut on deceleration?

 

[AWD-Tony]

I saw that too. Really don't think his setting are correct and FT's seem all over the place. He should post a longer log and make sure everything is set properly.

 

[polverari]

Im now replacing my spark plugs! I'll write more when i back to home!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It's been re-scaled--maybe about 6% off if I'm reading this right.

Edit: wait. I just noticed he has "Disable idle switch while moving" set. Someone more familiar with DSMLink would have to confirm, but isn't that his problem? Wouldn't that disable fuel cut on deceleration?

Yes, I would check the box so that when the throttle is closed it tells the ECU to idle.
This may have been checked before and out of no where it became unchecked but it will not hurt anything to have the box checked, then go for a drive @polverari
Good eyes @shinzon !!!!

 

[kmetiuk]

To me in the video, it sounds like ignition break up....and from the logs you can see the AFR's being weird. But its tough to say b/c your tune is weird to me.

You are using the FUEL tab to tune instead of calibrating your MAF like I would have. I would suggest resetting your fuel tab back to stock and then calibrate your MAF the ususal way.

Currently as it sits your AFR vs AFRest is not good. They are waaaaay off. When your "wideband" does not match your AFREst then your ECU thinks it has a different amount of air/fuel and fires the ignition coils based off that.

Make the green land match the orange line using the MAF TAB.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You are using the FUEL tab as such....and u can see it in the log above. The AFR's suddenly swing right at that RPM in the fuel tab. I suggest reseting the FUEL tab to STOCK.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Instead use the MAF tab. You'll have a much more robust tune when your done.

In the graph below I can see your MAF (purp) breaking up as well as your wideband going crazy too....so its mos def something we can see. To me it looks/sounds ignition-ie. Swap your plug wires as well as plugs. Check you have the leads inserted all the way in the coil packs. Sometimes that stupid little bootie comes down to far and the contacts don't quite get a good contact patch. Maybe check the coils and see if they multi-meter out good. Igntion can be a real biiitch to find the bug sometimes.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

USE the MAF COMP tab....your gonna have a bad time if you don't.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Sooooo.... when i look at your fuel tab you have set your injectors down -52% but when I look at your DA you did not dial in the INJBATTERYADJ....which is an absolute must tune item.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You need to add your DEADTIMES for your 1200CC injhectors in the DA table.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Good luck man. Keeps us updated.

 

[chrysler kid]

The idle switch turned of in motion is for automatic cars. Its purpose is to prevent harsh throttle response when the car is coasting in overdrive. It should be turned off so the injectors will turn off immediately on Decel.

The video also sounds like ignition break up, fuel cut is extremely harsh and jerks the entire car. Although boost leaks can cause a similar effect from bogging the engine with extra fuel. The maf expects a certain amount of air

Also check your plug wires for any frays or rubbed off sections. The can rub against the hood

 

[polverari]

Hello everybody!
First of all: Sorry for too many days to back here and say something!
After TONS of tries, i discover:
The problem is the spark plugs.
They were totally 100%, but, idk why they was bad
By the way, when i was trying to pull then off, i broke 2 spark plugs.. After a hard work, i changed for a brand new bpr7
Thanks A LOT, for everyone who spend a little time to help me
At the moment, the car are running well =) I only have to back to 1.2bar the turbo pressure 'cause it's 0.6 atm (¬¬) and some routine maintenance

Really thanks!

== Problem Solved, topic closed! ==

 

[polverari]

I have doubts.

1 - What i have to do in the MAF screen?
2 - Where i put the deadtime in DA exactly?
3 - I don't understand perfectly what to do to solve the problem about 'AFR vs AFRest'

You can call me inbox if you prefer! I will call you

To me in the video, it sounds like ignition break up....and from the logs you can see the AFR's being weird. But its tough to say b/c your tune is weird to me.

You are using the FUEL tab to tune instead of calibrating your MAF like I would have. I would suggest resetting your fuel tab back to stock and then calibrate your MAF the ususal way.

Currently as it sits your AFR vs AFRest is not good. They are waaaaay off. When your "wideband" does not match your AFREst then your ECU thinks it has a different amount of air/fuel and fires the ignition coils based off that.

Make the green land match the orange line using the MAF TAB.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You are using the FUEL tab as such....and u can see it in the log above. The AFR's suddenly swing right at that RPM in the fuel tab. I suggest reseting the FUEL tab to STOCK.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Instead use the MAF tab. You'll have a much more robust tune when your done.

In the graph below I can see your MAF (purp) breaking up as well as your wideband going crazy too....so its mos def something we can see. To me it looks/sounds ignition-ie. Swap your plug wires as well as plugs. Check you have the leads inserted all the way in the coil packs. Sometimes that stupid little bootie comes down to far and the contacts don't quite get a good contact patch. Maybe check the coils and see if they multi-meter out good. Igntion can be a real biiitch to find the bug sometimes.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

USE the MAF COMP tab....your gonna have a bad time if you don't.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Sooooo.... when i look at your fuel tab you have set your injectors down -52% but when I look at your DA you did not dial in the INJBATTERYADJ....which is an absolute must tune item.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You need to add your DEADTIMES for your 1200CC injhectors in the DA table.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Good luck man. Keeps us updated.

 

[AWD-Tony]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Do you have ecmtuning account? There is a good video there for deadtime.

You might want to start from the beginning and zero everything out. But you have to make sure everything on the car is working properly before you start tuning. There are lots of write ups on here.