Turbo Build

[rstare]

Np glad that's what your looking for with the rail adapter. I was gonna get a performance rail till I found that piece which I'll be ordering too very soon. Let us know how much line you end up really using to help other see how much they need to buy.

Well for the return line, the line from the sfmu to the tank was 9'1", i got 9' 3" to be safe (the 9'1" i was leaving slack too). Where I have my sfmu mount is only a few inches from the fuel rail, so I would assume 9 1/2' would be enough. (for the feed)

 

[totaleclipse_05]

Im going -8an for the oil return, its cheaper is the main reason.

Dumbest reason, don't skimp out on a turbo build. Do it right or do it twice.

 

[rstare]

Dumbest reason, don't skimp out on a turbo build. Do it right or do it twice.

Tell me the benefit of -10 over -8 and I will go bigger.

 

[rstare]

10AN or 1/2 for oil return, atleast thats what I use.

I believe -10an is actually equavilent to 5/8"
And -8an is equavilent to 1/2"

 

[cs82685]

^If you want cheap, #### ss line just use some 1/2" or 5/8" rubber hose. There's no pressure, so you don't need to worry about a certain psi running through it. As long as the heat isn't going to kill it and you can keep it from leaking when it's on your turbo and the fitting on your pan then you're fine. I've got a rubber line as my return (not sure what size) and have never had a problem with it in the 3 years I've had the car boosted.

On a side note, I don't think Mike was saying don't use -8an, I think he was just saying that "cheap" as a reason is not necessarily a good idea when it comes to something like this. Sure I haven't had any problems with my rubber line that's clamped onto the fittings, but something could rip it off and I could run my motor bone dry before realizing it. You're less likely to suffer such a tragedy if you go with quality parts (in this case, braided line with -an fittings to connect to your turbo and the drain on your oil pan)

 

[rstare]

^If you want cheap, #### ss line just use some 1/2" or 5/8" rubber hose. There's no pressure, so you don't need to worry about a certain psi running through it. As long as the heat isn't going to kill it and you can keep it from leaking when it's on your turbo and the fitting on your pan then you're fine. I've got a rubber line as my return (not sure what size) and have never had a problem with it in the 3 years I've had the car boosted.

On a side note, I don't think Mike was saying don't use -8an, I think he was just saying that "cheap" as a reason is not necessarily a good idea when it comes to something like this. Sure I haven't had any problems with my rubber line that's clamped onto the fittings, but something could rip it off and I could run my motor bone dry before realizing it. You're less likely to suffer such a tragedy if you go with quality parts (in this case, braided line with -an fittings to connect to your turbo and the drain on your oil pan)

Gotcha, okay I will stick to the -8an line. Not to start an argument, but I said cheaper was the main reason. I didnt see the need to have -10an. -8an wouldnt be bad. if they were the same price of course I would get -10an, but -8an is cheaper so thats why I decided on that size. But yes I do understand what your saying Mike and your 100% correct.
BTW -8an line isnt very cheap, .

 

[rstare]

Okay, so going to the local shop today was pretty cool. (I have only been going there for a week now) I found a local dsmer! He works at the shop, he was building a 4g63. Thats really exciting for me. He has another fuel pump bracket with a intaket lines. So he is going to sell that to me.
The oil return line and the fuel return line he is making tomorrow.
So tomorrow, the Im having a friend help put the gauges in. Electrical stuff just doesnt make sense with me. So tomorrow the gauges and fuel system should be totally done.
I guess since the car cant run tomorrow I might as well put in the injectors.

 

[rstare]

Okay, so this morning when I thought I broke the line, I was in a hurry, and I finally got to look at it tonight. I attached a picture of where I was trying to get the fitting loose, then circled exactly where.
My orignal thought of this fitting was that the male end, the one more to the right, was the end of the hard line and was like welded or something onto the end. When it came loose this morning that peice spun. So I thought I broke the weld, and screwed everything up. When I actually took it off tonight, I realized I was wrong. Its a flare fitting I believe its called. I thought that I was supposed to be turning the fitting on the left, the female one, like it was a swivel type fitting, like on a -an hose end. This is wrong as well. When the female (left) fitting turns it actually turns the whole line that is leading away from the tank. So the male (right) fitting is supposed to be turned. So I thought I was saved! If I just went back and put everything back in and held the female end and tightend the male end in it would seal agian and wouldnt spray fuel. (I didnt put the new fuel pump in) But I sealed the lines back together and everything else that was apart, and its no longer spraying fuel but it is still leaking.. very badly. So first of all Im looking for confirmation on this, and what can I do just to stop this leak. Would getting some kind of sealer and putting this on the thread then putting it back on help, or no? Just looking for some input, agian this is my dd, so I cant have it out much longer.
Also the thread is a -6an for the fuel feed line at the pump, just for reference. So like before I wouldnt mind running a -6an line all the way back, but I dont know what will change between the fitting im using now and a new fitting, other then age. I dont know, help me out guys.
Ryan

 

[rstare]

Okay so heres the deal, its a flared fitting. So the male side unscrews and slides freely on the hard feed line. I will post some pictures up for you guys later today, because the fuel pump will be going in.
The feed line, well its a little kinked, but the walbro 255 is up to the task.
The seal is still not getting made between the two fittings and its leaking out between the threads, I dont know what else to do besides try some kind of sealer. (I already cleaned with the steel wool stuff, and it looks flawless, nothing that would seem to create a leak/bad seal) But tonight, my new found dsm buddy is going to come and look at it, see what we can do.
If I can get this leak issue fixed, then I can probably get the following in.
Gauges, all the wiring run except the wideband, since im welding in a bung to the new downpipe (when its made)
FCD
Fuel Pump
The bung for the oil return, which im going with -10an, then im just going to cap it off for now
Then if time allows the fuel lines.
If I cant get this feed line sealed im in big trouble, I have a friend with a 97 talon esi so I can try and see if he will switch fuel pump brackets with me. Or I can try and run the -6an all the way back like I was going to do. The adapter from slowboyracing should be here today. Either way I am running out of time.
If you guys have any other ideas on why the lines wouldnt be sealing let me here it, or if you have any suggestions for it, let me know I am totally open.
Thanks a bunch, and I promise, pictures tonight (I took some yesterday, but didnt upload them)
Ryan

 

[rstare]

Well, leak issue, is all cleared.
*Relief*
Anyway, I work with hvac company and a guy said he puts this stuff on lines with 100+psi and never had a problem. So we put the fuel pump in, put that stuff on the thread, fired her up and... well I forgot to plug the coil back in from when I had it out, but after that it started right up. I left the access panel off (so i could keep it in check) let it warm up, drove around, pushed it a little, got back to my driveway and let it see the redline and thats right no signs of leaking.
Leak Lock it what its called, I personally have never heard of it. But it seems to be working fine.
I had the access panel off, but that pump is loud. Im not too worried though.
Sorry I didnt take pictures of the fuel pump and all I wasnt in the best mood, with this whole thing, but the car is running now.
It threw a CEL light though, it did the same thing with my intake but it went away after a few days. Im guessing the pump did this.
Anyway, thats all for today, I have to pick up a few things, bolts and wires mainly.
Thanks guys
Ryan

 

[rstare]

Just for reference this is how I did the fuel pump.
Removed back seat
Removed 5 screws and pull away access panel, unplug white connection, the other connection I couldnt get out.
Here you can relief the pressure in the fuel system, just start the car, sometimes is wont even start, if it does it will only last a few seconds before it dies.
First thing is the flare fitting-get two wrenches, 3/4" and 14mm will work. I would spray with some pbblaster before you even try. Try and loosen this fitting, if it wont come loose, dont force it! You dont want to kink the line. Spray it agian and try agian later, I have heard three days and usually it will come off, it took me four.
Once you have that loose unscrew it, have a towel, there will be fuel leaking.
Then take off the hose clamp on the rubber return line and remove that, there also will leak fuel.
Then 6 8mm nuts holding the bracket in the tank, remove them.
Then remove the bracket, its going to be stuck to that gasket, just give it a tug.
Then pull it out and let all the fuel strain out.
First remove the screw and the bottom part of the bracket will come out, remove that rubber peice, and put your new peice in there.
Disconnect the wires.
There will be two hose clamps holding the stock pump, loosen the bottom one and you can pull the pump out. Then there easy to take off, I didnt even put them back onto the rubber line.
Next put your new inulator on your new pump. If you got a kit then a little silver washer like thing will come with, put that on to secure the insulator to the pump.
Put the rubber line back onto the bracket, dont even bother using the clamps.
This is where things can differ, some people have had to cut the rubber line, some people had to make a new hole for the screw, some had to do both and some had to do neither.
Ill tell you what I had to do.
The rubber line stayed the same length, so I put it back on and then put the pump on the line. I lined it up and saw I was going to have to drill a new hole. So I drilled a new hole, and put that bracket on to secure the pump, used the old screw, connected the wires, make sure there all the way in, they will click twice. Then redo everything you un did. (Put the bracket in the tank, screw the nuts on, reconnect the lines)
When you reconnect the flared fitting make sure it doesnt leak. Start up the car, and if it doesnt leak your good, if so just use something to seal it, I used leak lock.
The walbro pump is louder, but what do you expect when you have a 255lph hp pump, .
Let me know if I missed anything, I think its pretty well covered though.

 

[Slippi84]

I'll be honest this hread is hard to follow because you have post after post of LONG step bystep prcedures on stuff which is cool but most of it is comon knowledge or easily found by searhing. Try to keep the info to new stuff and this will be easy to follow and others will post too

edit: Side not more pictures with less writing makes for a great thread too : )

 

[webconnect]

How did you get the black crash bumper brackets off? The triangles that is, not the bar.

 

[rstare]

I realize I get carried away talking, sorry, . It happens, but honestly there was no step by step procdure for me, all the writes I had seen were for awd, which is different, 190 pumps which are smaller, and everyone made it seem like the fuel pump was the easiest thing to do. It was the absolute hardest for me so far. Just because of everything that came along with it.
It will straighten out from here, I promise, and I will have pictures tonight.

 

[rstare]

How did you get the black crash bumper brackets off? The triangles that is, not the bar.

I took a picture for you. First of all I assume you mean how did I get them off when they were in the frame.
The two circles is where 2 14mm bolts were, once you take those out its totally free.
I pointed out some other things so you could get a good idea of where the picture is.
That piping is the i/c pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body.

 

[rstare]

Here the pics.
The first is of that stupid hard feed line from the pump. Showing that its a flared fitting (which i never knew until I got it off).
The second is just my engine bay currently, yes I mounted the mbc just cause it wouldnt take long.
Third is of what I cut out for the intercooler piping from the throttle body to the intercooler "out". (I pushed the fuse box out of the way to get this picture, currently the fuse box is mounted to nothing)
And last is the mounting spot for the sfmu, (The vac lines are all hooked up but none of the ss lines) I still have yet to know if all the stuff in the ports are right, so if anyone knows what is supposed to be in what port that would help.

 

[chinexican]

looks to be coming together nicely...
and it looks like you didn't have a 3" hole saw either

 

[rstare]

Well it has continued.
Also fixing a oil leak while doing the turbo install, and some routine maintenance. (Gaskets, timing belt, ect...)
Looks like the oil leak is coming from some of the senders on the back of the block and headgasket, possibly rear main too.
So were pulling the head friday.

 

[rstare]

I dont have the pics from today, sorry.
The oil pan came off and its all ready to have the return bung welded in.
So to get the head off the timing belt is being removed. But its being a absolute pain.
The motor mount is out but the peiece on the timing belt cover that attaches to the motor mount just wont come out. All the bolts are (almost) out. Problem is that when you pull the bolts to get them out they hit the side of the engine bay before they can get out. (Chiltons manual makes it look so easy) Tried gettting the motor on a angle and all kinds of stuff, but they just arnt coming out. Then pulled the alternator belt to get to the crank pully. So thats where I currently am.
Sunday or monday is the next day so expect pictures then.

 

[Flipboi89]

angled where the tranny was pointed down right? also is the a hahn fmic?

 

[Locke]

Yeah thats a Hahn FMIC.

 

[rstare]

Yup its the hahns fmic.
I read a 2gnt.com vfaq and it says you have to pull the front mount. I still dont know if my jack will go up high enough, but I will figure something out and I will let you know.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

To get the bolts out, lower the engine on the passenger side of the car and have a friend sit on the engine to make it go lower. I've had to do that a couple times to get the mount out and it comes out just fine after that.

 

[rstare]

To get the bolts out, lower the engine on the passenger side of the car and have a friend sit on the engine to make it go lower. I've had to do that a couple times to get the mount out and it comes out just fine after that.

Well none of that stuff worked for me. I had to pull the front mount and the drivers side mount....
Then I could get it low enough to pull one of the bolts out. Then other I had to bend the power steering lines to get out.
But its all out now.
Heres a bunch of pictures of the progress

Edit: okay I dont know what happened to the pictures....Guess I will try agian
Okay well I dont have time to resize them now, I guess thats why they didnt go up. Sorry

I got the head off, got it machined/cleaned, checked the seats, the whole deal. Put the new injectors in, got some arp studs.
Btw, you have to take the intake manifold off to slide the head onto the studs. Then put the manifold on the head, things are never easy...
So thats were I am, still gotta torque everything down. 85ft lbs for the arp head studs, Im not that strong, I can barley get there... (I tried it with the torque wrench and a vice) So that should be fun.
Agian sorry about the pictures, I will have them up, if I can reformat them...

 

[Flipboi89]

hurry it up man i wanna see . Also have fun torqueing the harmonic balancer also needs alot of torque