Turbo Build

[rstare]

You've exhibited sound reasoning, but the phenomenon you described isn't widely observed. In fact, you're the only person I've ever heard mention this problem... have you ever witnessed it first hand or are you speculating?

Fuel cut defenders are by far the more popular choice with 420A's. Despite your assertions, missing links are incredibly simple devices prone to mechanical failure.

I have actually heard of more people having trouble with the missing links then the fcd. There is only one instance of trouble with a fcd that I have read about and it was just the fcd wasnt operating properly, (not clamping the voltage) had nothing to do with the map being exposed to boost.

 

[wishgst]

goodluck with the piping my friend, ill be installing my FMIC ina couple weeks...

soo how long after u got the bumper back on did u just stare at it and think "damn, that looks ####ing sweet"

 

[Slippi84]

turbo wise one word for you my friend holset. Can you say big power good spool and under $700 for a quality unit. I bought my turbo for 560 paid like 300 for oil lines a new hotside so I have the exact turbo I want with oil lines and everything I need to slap her on for less than a grand. Still not cheap but compared to 1300 just for the turbo I think that's a great deal. From what I have read I have a expensive holset turbo too but then agian mine was remanfactured so pretty much brand new most get them used as they are used on cummings dsl trucks.

As for the oil pressure guage get one the oil filter sandwich bracket. Pretty much it goes in between your oil filter and block and is threaded for 6 -4an male fittings. Comes with the plugs to block off the ones you don't use too. I have a 90* -4an to a inline oil filter to my oil feed for my turbo and the other end I have the sending unit for my oil pressure guage.

 

[rstare]

goodluck with the piping my friend, ill be installing my FMIC ina couple weeks...

soo how long after u got the bumper back on did u just stare at it and think "damn, that looks ####ing sweet"

Lol, definatley a few minutes, and my friend came over just cause he wanted to see it, then we just looked and stared and said, man thats bad to the bone.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

As for the oil pressure guage get one the oil filter sandwich bracket. Pretty much it goes in between your oil filter and block and is threaded for 6 -4an male fittings. Comes with the plugs to block off the ones you don't use too. I have a 90* -4an to a inline oil filter to my oil feed for my turbo and the other end I have the sending unit for my oil pressure guage.

Do not use a sandwich adaptor, it lowers your oil filter down farther than is safe IMO. Do it right, use the back of the block for oil lines and oil pressure senders.

 

[Slippi84]

Do not use a sandwich adaptor, it lowers your oil filter down farther than is safe IMO. Do it right, use the back of the block for oil lines and oil pressure senders.

WTF. Lower than is safe?? You realise I'm a 420a not a 4g63 right? I have it on and it does not lower it to low AT ALL. There is no right way and wrong way if there was it would probably off the head with a filter inline anyway.

 

[rstare]

I have heard of most people doing it off the back of the block. (for the oil pressure sender)
Anyway I talked to the guys from hahns and they gave me diagrams and instructions. I believe it pipe is supposed to go through the hole under the fuse box, where the fuse wires go. Then a 90 coupler is supposed to go through that hole, only problem is that it wont fit with the fuse wires there. So if this is the right spot, then I will have to drill a hole to make that hole bigger. I think im just going to drill one the size of the bundle of wires cause if the wire werent there then the coupler would fit. So that way i can just push the wires to the side and put that coupler in there.
I doubt I am going to do this today, because I like to have another set of hands when doing these kind of things. And I need to get the fuel pump and stuff in.
The sfmu is a -6an fitting right? And I have the 97 fuel rail so one end is capped off. So when I capp off the fpr I am going to run a line of of the capped off fuel rail, to the sfmu, and then back to the tank. Is this correct? Also what size is the part that is capped off on the fuel rail?
Thanks guys
Ryan

 

[Locke]

WTF. Lower than is safe?? You realise I'm a 420a not a 4g63 right? I have it on and it does not lower it to low AT ALL. There is no right way and wrong way if there was it would probably off the head with a filter inline anyway.

Mike (totaleclipse) is an ex-2gnt'r who just recently went to the dark side.

It has been noted before that sandwich adapters often place the oil filter in harm's way. A shallow oil filter would then be recommended.

 

[Slippi84]

Mike (totaleclipse) is an ex-2gnt'r who just recently went to the dark side.

It has been noted before that sandwich adapters often place the oil filter in harm's way. A shallow oil filter would then be recommended.

I will take pictures when I get home but just for future notes the adpater is like an inch and change thick so I highly doubt that an inch and half max will put you dangerously low.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

If it protrudes past the oil pan or any cross-member I'd say that's dangerously low. Remember that clearance to ground changes, often more dramatically than we think, if the car bounces or goes over bumps, pits, etc..

 

[cs82685]

And I need to get the fuel pump and stuff in.
The sfmu is a -6an fitting right? And I have the 97 fuel rail so one end is capped off. So when I capp off the fpr I am going to run a line of of the capped off fuel rail, to the sfmu, and then back to the tank. Is this correct? Also what size is the part that is capped off on the fuel rail?
Thanks guys
Ryan

Basically this diagram should answer all your sfmu questions. In a nut shell the fitting on the rail is -4an and the fittings on the sfmu are -6an. For the return line go -6an from the sfmu to the tank. For the line from the rail to the sfmu it's up to you. Either a -4an line with an adapter on the sfmu to take it from -6an to -4an or a -6an line with an adapter on the rail to go from -4an to -6an

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^ugghh tuners resized it to look like crap. Here's the link for the page it's on and another link within that page for some helpful stuff on the sfmu.

2GNT.com - SFMU_Installation_Diagram

edit: be sure to remove the schrader valve from the port on the fuel rail. (You use a tire valve removal tool should cost $2-$3 if you don't already have one)

 

[rstare]

Thanks a lot cs82, thats everything I was questioning. I just need to figure out if I can get the fuel line here in town or if im going to have to order it. Hopefully I can get it here, cause I hate waiting for stuff.
And agian the fuel pump didnt work out last night, but tonight I am free. So I really need to get that pump in, and I need to buy the fuel line, today.
Ryan

Edit: Do you guys think I used use -4an or -6an for the fuel line?

 

[chris712vt]

I'm using -6AN between my SFMU and the rail, and -6AN > 1/4" hose > hard line for the regular return. Don't know if that helps at all haha. BTW get working on the injectors, I'm going to try and do mine tonight after work.

 

[rstare]

Ya, I think im going to just run -6an all around for the return I mean. You should take some pics of your removal and installation of your injectors, and help the needy . I would do mine to but I dont want to put them in with out the sfmu, (run to rich). But I will do them before the weekend since I am shooting for being turbo in six days.
How should I do the return for the fuel pump, since that one is on soo freaking tight. I mean if I am running new fuel line dont I have to attach it to there anyway? Sorry if I am not explaining good.
When you take out the cover for the access panel to the fuel pump, there are two lines, one is easy to remove because it is just a hose clamp. The other one is well just a pain... this is the return, correct? I was going to undo the fuel connection from under the car to get so I could get to the fuel pump. But if I am going to have to undo this connection anyway to hook up the new fuel line, I might as well get it over with. And then what size is that thread, cause I am assuming I would need a adapter?
Sorry for the length
Ryan

 

[Slippi84]

Ya, I think im going to just run -6an all around for the return I mean. You should take some pics of your removal and installation of your injectors, and help the needy . I would do mine to but I dont want to put them in with out the sfmu, (run to rich). But I will do them before the weekend since I am shooting for being turbo in six days.
How should I do the return for the fuel pump, since that one is on soo freaking tight. I mean if I am running new fuel line dont I have to attach it to there anyway? Sorry if I am not explaining good.
When you take out the cover for the access panel to the fuel pump, there are two lines, one is easy to remove because it is just a hose clamp. The other one is well just a pain... this is the return, correct? I was going to undo the fuel connection from under the car to get so I could get to the fuel pump. But if I am going to have to undo this connection anyway to hook up the new fuel line, I might as well get it over with. And then what size is that thread, cause I am assuming I would need a adapter?
Sorry for the length
Ryan

I want to run -6an line for the feed and the return. I want to find a good rail that has a hook up for the return so I can run a true return all the way from the rail back to the tank as aposed to the stock rail design I have. How much line did you guys need to complete a feed and return?

 

[chris712vt]

I know if you're buying SS line in bulk you can get it in 10' or 20' increments. 20 would be plenty I assume, but 10 would be cutting it too short I think.

 

[rstare]

I would assume about 25 foot would do it, I would think that would leave you some extra too.

 

[rstare]

Ya, I think im going to just run -6an all around for the return I mean. You should take some pics of your removal and installation of your injectors, and help the needy . I would do mine to but I dont want to put them in with out the sfmu, (run to rich). But I will do them before the weekend since I am shooting for being turbo in six days.
How should I do the return for the fuel pump, since that one is on soo freaking tight. I mean if I am running new fuel line dont I have to attach it to there anyway? Sorry if I am not explaining good.
When you take out the cover for the access panel to the fuel pump, there are two lines, one is easy to remove because it is just a hose clamp. The other one is well just a pain... this is the return, correct? I was going to undo the fuel connection from under the car to get so I could get to the fuel pump. But if I am going to have to undo this connection anyway to hook up the new fuel line, I might as well get it over with. And then what size is that thread, cause I am assuming I would need a adapter?
Sorry for the length
Ryan

If you dont understand what I am asking let me know and I will try and rephrase it

 

[99gst_racer]

I would assume about 25 foot would do it, I would think that would leave you some extra too.

If you bought 15 feet, you'd still have extra. IIRC, it takes just over 10 feet to plumb a 2G.

 

[Slippi84]

If you dont understand what I am asking let me know and I will try and rephrase it

I understand what yoru saying you need that like compression style fitting that goes on the end of the metal line and has a threaded -6an hook up like ppl use for breaks than attach teh braided line to that.

If you bought 15 feet, you'd still have extra. IIRC, it takes just over 10 feet to plumb a 2G.

Is that for just return or is that for the feed to I want to do both lines in -6an

 

[99gst_racer]

Is that for just return or is that for the feed to I want to do both lines in -6an

That's just one-way.

25 ft. would cover the feed and return, though.

 

[cs82685]

Ya, I think im going to just run -6an all around for the return I mean. You should take some pics of your removal and installation of your injectors, and help the needy . I would do mine to but I dont want to put them in with out the sfmu, (run to rich). But I will do them before the weekend since I am shooting for being turbo in six days.
How should I do the return for the fuel pump, since that one is on soo freaking tight. I mean if I am running new fuel line dont I have to attach it to there anyway? Sorry if I am not explaining good.
When you take out the cover for the access panel to the fuel pump, there are two lines, one is easy to remove because it is just a hose clamp. The other one is well just a pain... this is the return, correct? I was going to undo the fuel connection from under the car to get so I could get to the fuel pump. But if I am going to have to undo this connection anyway to hook up the new fuel line, I might as well get it over with. And then what size is that thread, cause I am assuming I would need a adapter?
Sorry for the length
Ryan

^The one I bolded is the stock 'return line'. The hard line (metal) is the supply line. As for connecting a -6an line to the tank, I think mine is just on there with a few hose clamps. Probably not the best way to go about it, but I have never had any leaks from it.

 

[rstare]

^The one I bolded is the stock 'return line'. The hard line (metal) is the supply line. As for connecting a -6an line to the tank, I think mine is just on there with a few hose clamps. Probably not the best way to go about it, but I have never had any leaks from it.

Ya once i got under the car I realized all this. I guess I should look before i ask, sorry. But I did read on 2gnt that hose clamps work just fine for putting the -6an to the tank.

 

[rstare]

Im having more trouble then I should. The line that i circled I am trying to unscrew, because thats the only one to unscrew unless it off a little bit further down, like on the filter. But I believe I am doing the right one it is just hard to get at and when I do get at it, it just feels like I am bending the line like I felt like from above.
If you guys could just confirm Im doing this in the right spot that would make me feel alot more at ease about breaking sometihng.
Ryan

 

[cs82685]

Not quite sure what you're trying to do. That's the supply that you circled (although I don't remember having a rubber line there). If you are prepping for SFMU and walbro install,

1) disconnect both lines from inside the car under the back seat so you can get at the fuel pump.

Not the best pic/diagram but sometimes the simplest picture helps:

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Then, for sfmu you are going to

2) remove the fpr (top left of your picture with greenish looking top) and the line running from it to the top of the tank which you should have unhooked the other end in step 1.

3) You'll place a bolt into where you remove the fpr from in place of the fpr (make sure it doesn't block fuel flow and use a copper washer to prevent leaking). In order to prevent leaking (obviously)

4) I would also replace that fuel filter while you're at it, it doesn't look quite new.