The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Turbo Build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

alright dude, to help you out with your piping...
for where you need to cut a hole by the wires, it says to use a 3 inch hole saw...
well i didn't have a 3 inch..
i had a 2 and a 5, so i said whatever and used a saws-all...
but i hope you can see the way you need to route each pipe from the pics...
sorry for the mess...
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
oh and on your hard bumper...
i recommend putting it back on...
sure, if you hit something at mid to high speed, chances are it's not going to do anything for you...
but at lower speed...
your fmic is gunna take all the hit without it...
i bet you don't want that...
it's real simple to trim it up...
if you want i can easily tell where and how much to trim off...
 
LOL chinexican I like the avatar!
Lol, thats pretty good. Thanks those pictures really helped chinexican, I got pics froms hahns but they dont show it in the car they show it on a pulled engine, so thanks. I did notice the bumper is extra,.. well nothing without it, no weight so theres not much to hold up, but its only held up by 7 bolts now. So I will decide later if I want it back on. But for now I have to get this other stuff in.
Cs82 - I actually was trying jsut to put in the fuel pump last night. And I tried agian to get that feed line off from under the access plate but its just not working. So I followed a tech article, a pretty good one at that. But i really cant seem to get up to that spot to loosen the line from underneath and when I do its just to akward to turn.
So now on thursday me and my friend will be putting in the whole fuel system. Sfmu, injectors, fuel pump the whole deal. I am also going to change the fuel filter while I am at it so it should be realitivly easier then just trying to change the fuel pump.
Thanks for the pic cs82 it should help tomorrow.
Irrelivent question - how many picutres can you guys upload? Cause I can only do about 8 and then it says I have exceeded my limit, 500kb. I just think that kind of sucks because then I have to delete older pictures.
Thanks guys
Ryan
 
Chexican, question about the black saftey thing. So its actually not attached to your bumper anymore? Thats just what it looks like from your picture, because you have to cut most of the parts, if not all of them where the bumper attaches to it.
Also, it doesnt even look like all those wires from the fuse box even go through that hole in your picture.
 
So here is exactly what I am going to do, take off the fuel filter, then I should be able to get that pump out much easier. Take out the fpr, lots of room up there without the fuel filter, bolt that off. Take out the fuel pump, with the fuel filter disconnected I will finally be able to get it out. Change the pump. Get that in, take out the rubber return line, from the fpr. Run the -6an line to the return on the pump. Reinstall everything. Run the -6an line all the way to the front, mount sfmu connect to.. ?bottom? (the botttom of the sfmu is the out right?) And so on.
Does it matter where I put the fuel pressure gauge? All the pictures I have seen have it between the fuel rail and the sfmu. It would be alot easier to have it between the sfmu and the pump. Just because I have a -4an to a -6an line and its just the right length to get from the fuel rail to the sfmu.
I think I got everything in there, sorry for posting three times in a row, I was at home then got to work and didnt have time to get it in one post.
Ryan
 
the wires do go through right there, they just brach off another way too...
and the facia...
i don't have it bolted to the bumper...
it actually sits on top...
i did that purposely...
all that's holding it on is the 5 bolts under the hood and latches on the side...
you only have to cut the bottom of the reinforced bumper and the driver's side for the pipe...
but if you want to mount your facia to it, you have to drill new holes in it and your facia 'cause you trim the existing holes off...
 
Okay so I have a few questions about the sfmu. I drew a picture, attached. The little screw can go into three different spots and I really dont know which one it goes it. I think I see it plugging the bleed port on some pictures but not sure. The only problem is if the little screw goes into the bleed port then the valve on the right has nothing to go into, becuase it only fits in the bleed port. I put the allen screw in the boost port because that was the only thing it fit into and nothing else fit into that port. Now the valve on the left doesnt fit into anything its just a hair to big to go into the vacuum port. So if you guys know how to hook this up that would be great, I really need to get this in tonight.
Also does it matter if the fuel pressure gauge goes after the sfmu, because it would be much easier for me to put it after, all the diagrams I see always have the gauge before. I wouldnt think it would matter but I just want to check.
Thanks
Ryan

Edit: Yes, I made a bracket for it, it needs a little fixing though.

One other question I had was about the rings. Theres disks and rings, right now I have the biggest disk in there. The biggest ring I have doesnt match the biggest disk, I dont even know if you need a ring when your using the biggest disk because of how it sits.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
how many port on the blue part?
there should be at least 3, 2 on the sides and one on the bottom...
if that's the case...
one on the side is from the fuel source the other is to the rail...
and the one on the bottom is the return...
that's the way both my regulators have been so if it's diffrerent...
i don't know what to tell you...
who makes it?
 
how many port on the blue part?
there should be at least 3, 2 on the sides and one on the bottom...
if that's the case...
one on the side is from the fuel source the other is to the rail...
and the one on the bottom is the return...
that's the way both my regulators have been so if it's diffrerent...
i don't know what to tell you...
who makes it?
Its a vortech. The ports on the blue (bottom part) are the fuel in and out. The side is in the bottom is out. Thats not my issue, its the other three ports, the boost port (which I have figured out) the bleed port and the vacuum port. I dont understand why it needs a vacuum port because the vacuum is at the top where the adjuster for the static/idle pressure is. Vortechs manual says the bleed port comes blocked from the factory, so I can put that screw in there, thats not the problem. Its this vacuum port that is confusing me, nothing fits into it.
 
Hmm... on my Vortech SFMU I've got a screw in the vacuum hole, the screw side of the bleeder valve broken off inside the bleed hole (insert mad face), and nothing in the boost hole. Not sure what to do with those either at this point other than get the broken bleed valve out.


Anyway I was going to give you a heads up on the injector install. After reading on here and 2GNT about it in the past, I haven't been looking forward to doing my fuel rail/injectors/fuel lines swap. I thought you had to take off the intake manifold and other crap and that it would be an awfully long process. I was wrong.

It ended up taking me a few hours yesterday to do everything, and a good chunk of that was spent searching for one of my fuel rail bolts I dropped (fell in behind the rear motor mount). I started by removing the coil pack and wires, throttle cable and ground wire, and moving the wires and sensors that run along above the fuel rail out of the way. Then it was much easier to see and access the L-bracket, and then pop off the injector harness and get those wires out of there, then get to the fuel rail bolts. I have decently large hands, and it was an extremely tight fit (I got my fair share of cuts and scrapes on both hands), but I managed to get both 13mm fuel rail bolts off without removing anything else using a little 1/4" ratchet. Popped the fuel supply and return off, gently wiggled the rail and injectors out, then carefully took the whole thing out of there. You can get it out, just rotate up and out the passenger side, it's a close fit but I got it out with the injectors still on.

It was actually even easier to get my new 450s and new rail back in there, get them fitten in place, and bolted back down. Then I rewired my injector harnesses with the resistor box, heat shrinked it all, done. SS lines and AN fittings didn't take long to install and run to the SFMU. Whole job took just one evening of focussed work haha, and I've been putting that off for months because of the hassle I thought it would be.
 
Okay so heres what has happened today. I tried and tried to put the stupid ends on the ss line. Getting the first peice on wasnt the problem, it was when I triend to screw then end into it that it got really hard, and harder and then the thread just broke. So im done trying im just going to have the place I got it from put it on.
I took another shot at the fuel pump after spraying pb plaster. Line still wouldnt want to come lose. Sprayed it some more and we will see what happens. Tried to take the fuel filter out and broke a bolt. So i sprayed those down as well, and we will see what happens with that.
So i figure i need to do something tonight. So im going to mount the sfmu, or get the place to mount it, because I need to make a new bracket, so Im going to do both of those tonight.
I cant really find a good place to mount it. I wanted to put it where the lines for the throttle go (that little black box in the back left corner of the engine bay) But its going to prove to be to difficult. I think im taking out the washer fluid (i never use it anyway) and just put it there.
Thanks Chris for the info on the injectors, that will hopefully be tomorrows job.

Edit: just got my tracking number for the turbo
estimated date of arrival... august 4th... sucks. Well looks like I will be shooting for august 8th, cause I wont be able to work on it at all on the 4th.
One other thing, where did you guys run the new fuel return line?
 
i ran mine back and down the firewall and then ran it along and ziptied it to the exhisting metal lines on the passenger side, and then plugged it up into the rubber hose that the old fpr connected to
 
Okay I got my washer fluid out. (The pictures are temporary, im just measuring the length of the ss lines for the shop, but this is pretty much where it will go). Im going to route it down by the steering rod (idk the technical term, this should be okay right?) Its pretty much the only hole to underneath the car I can find. So through there, then down and to the outside of the heat shield for the exhaust all the way back, then up and over to the fuel pump. I think this should all be fine, the only part im slightly concearned about it the steering rod.
Anyway, im measuring that out, then making a new bracket for the sfmu. Im going to give the fuel pump a try, but i just dont know how i am going to get it out, if this stuff doesnt work.
Agian does it matter where I put the fuel pressure gauge, before or after the sfmu?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
i ran mine back and down the firewall and then ran it along and ziptied it to the exhisting metal lines on the passenger side, and then plugged it up into the rubber hose that the old fpr connected to

That is exactly what I was going to do, until I decided to put the sfmu on the drivers side.
 
Hmm... on my Vortech SFMU I've got a screw in the vacuum hole, the screw side of the bleeder valve broken off inside the bleed hole (insert mad face), and nothing in the boost hole. Not sure what to do with those either at this point other than get the broken bleed valve out.
Did you actually use your sfmu like this, cause if it worked like that, heck ill set it up just like that.
 
Did you actually use your sfmu like this, cause if it worked like that, heck ill set it up just like that.

nope haha not yet. haven't started it up yet. my brother in law used to be a machinist so he's got tons of specialized tools. He's got something that can get inside that bleeder valve's screw and back it out, then I've got an extra bleeder vlave I will replace it with.

As far as the boost and vacuum holes... I guess i'll try it like that with one screw in there and one missing. we'll see if it works
 
nope haha not yet. haven't started it up yet. my brother in law used to be a machinist so he's got tons of specialized tools. He's got something that can get inside that bleeder valve's screw and back it out, then I've got an extra bleeder vlave I will replace it with.

As far as the boost and vacuum holes... I guess i'll try it like that with one screw in there and one missing. we'll see if it works
Lol, okay, well i guess that will be what I am doing too. The shop is putting the ends on my ss line today. So hopefully I can get the fuel system up today, my main concern is the pump. None of the bolts came loose, so right now I cant even get the fuel filter out. So hopfully that blaster stuff will work.
My sister took the camera :( so im going to have to find another way to take pictures.
Tonight I hope to get the sfmu mounted and the ss lines ran, hopefully God will have mercy and I will be able to get that fuel pump in.
 
Well yesterday went, alright. The shop didnt have one of the ends for the ss lines, so that wont be ready till monday, and I wont be in town monday. But I did get the sfmu mounted so its just a matter of putting the fuel lines on, which is a five minute job. I got the i/c system in, then realized that the pipe for the turbo to the i/c wasnt very stable without being attached to the turbo, so I took that pipe out and just put a nylon over then end of the "in" for the intercooler. Thats my filter.
Tried the fuel pump agian yesterday, no go. I sprayed it down somemore and I will try agian today. I figure I have until tuesday to get it out, so I am just going to keep trying and spraying.
What is your guys size suggestions for the downpipe, 2.5"?
So, im trying to find a camera, when I do I promise pictures..
 
Still looking for a answer from someone who has used a vortech sfmu, and had it functioning correctly, on what should be in each port.
As of today, the fuel feed line is still not coming loose, if anyone has any other ideas of how to get it out, let me know.
I got all the vac lines run. I got the mbc mounted. And I started on the gauges, I got the glowshift A pillar 3 gauge pod, and it says it screws into the stock A pillar. Im not to sure about this, it could work but then the wires for all the gauges got no where to go. I would like to screw the glowshift straight into the A frame. So if anyone has had experience with glowshift a pillar let me know how you did it.
I will be gone tomorrow so there will be no work done on the car :(
Tuesday i will have pics up, got the camera back. And I hope to get all the fuel lines in and the gauges all hooked up, besides the wideband, need to weld the bung into the new down pipe and that will be that last thing to happen.
Ryan
 
Im going -8an for the oil return, its cheaper is the main reason.
So this morning i decided to give the feed line for the pump another try....
The whole fitting came off. Not just the female part that screw onto the thread, the male part that was attached to the hard line....
So new feed line here I come as well. I found a fuel rail adapter to a -6an fitting (thanks Slip). So im having that overnighted. So im getting another 10ft of -6 line for a feed as well. So now i will have a whole new fuel system. (At least it will be eaiser in the future).
So i lined my turbo up with the manifold and wastegate, and man it looks liike that downpipe is going to be extremly close to the wastegate.
Well today i can finally put the fuel pump in.... yay.....
The car is out of commision till tomorrow probably so im going to start running what fuel line I have. (Return lines, from capped side of rail to sfmu, and back to tank.
Thats about it i think, sorry so long
THanks Ryan
 
Im going -8an for the oil return, its cheaper is the main reason.
So this morning i decided to give the feed line for the pump another try....
The whole fitting came off. Not just the female part that screw onto the thread, the male part that was attached to the hard line....
So new feed line here I come as well. I found a fuel rail adapter to a -6an fitting (thanks Slip). So im having that overnighted. So im getting another 10ft of -6 line for a feed as well. So now i will have a whole new fuel system. (At least it will be eaiser in the future).
So i lined my turbo up with the manifold and wastegate, and man it looks liike that downpipe is going to be extremly close to the wastegate.
Well today i can finally put the fuel pump in.... yay.....
The car is out of commision till tomorrow probably so im going to start running what fuel line I have. (Return lines, from capped side of rail to sfmu, and back to tank.
Thats about it i think, sorry so long
THanks Ryan

Np glad that's what your looking for with the rail adapter. I was gonna get a performance rail till I found that piece which I'll be ordering too very soon. Let us know how much line you end up really using to help other see how much they need to buy.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top