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It should still run with no 02 sensors. When your 02 goes bad your car still runs, I know I just had to fix one on another car LOL.
Hmm, boost gauge doesnt show anything with just revving? There is boost though.. I just dont understand how it cant show it.
I understand why the bov wouldnt do anything because the throttle isnt closing, but it is building boost. I know because I took the coupler off, and it was definatley blowing air..
This is my first turbo experience so maybe Im missing something..

Edit: I do have a wideband, just nothing to put it into yet... unless I can stick the tip of it by the turbine outlet LOL.
 
Yes, the ECU will remain in open-loop without an o2 sensor.

The boost gauge should register vacuum, as well as boost. If it's not moving at all, then you either have a massive vacuum leak, or the gauge is installed incorrectly.
 
It should still run with no 02 sensors. When your 02 goes bad your car still runs, I know I just had to fix one on another car LOL.
Hmm, boost gauge doesnt show anything with just revving? There is boost though.. I just dont understand how it cant show it. LOL.

There is very minimal boost when just revving an engine, so your gauge will not go above zero(especially if you are boosting low, but as Locke said there should at least be vacuum (unless your revving too high to tell).
Where did you tap for your boost gauge source?
 
Thats what I was meaning, it wasnt showing vacumm or moving from 0psi at all. The vac line runs from the compressor to the mbc (the boost gauge is after the mbc) then to the wastegate.
It should probably be in the intake manifold and thats what causing that problem.

After work today I will check for vacumm leaks, retap that boost gauge, and try to bring down the fuel pressure on the sfmu and see how that works.
I am considering just getting that downpipe made that way I have the wideband and it makes things alot easier...
No leaks as of yet. But only time will tell.
Thanks for your input Locke and TalonESIT, very appreciated.

Edit: Would having it running rich, still cause it not to idle at all? Or is the idle problem probably related to a vacumm problem and the misfiring is related to the running rich?
 
Mike, thats probably what I will end up doing, if I cant get it to idle right today. With the wideband it should be really easy to tell whats going on, plus then another problem is removed.
Edit: Would having it running rich, still cause it not to idle at all? Or is the idle problem probably related to a vacumm problem and the misfiring is related to the running rich?
 
congratz on getting it fired up. running too rich could overflood the engine cause it to choke and die? when you hooked up your fcd, you set it as 3.63 right? (its around that cant fully remember) i think you should get your sfmu set correctly.
 
congratz on getting it fired up. running too rich could overflood the engine cause it to choke and die? when you hooked up your fcd, you set it as 3.63 right? (its around that cant fully remember) i think you should get your sfmu set correctly.
Honestly this is what happened yesterday. I got the battery installed and a few wires run, the fcd hooked up and it was 9:30 when I started it the first time. Looked for oil/fuel leaks but thats about it. I had work at 7 today so I didnt want to be up all night.
I just wanted some input from you guys so I would have some things to check into right away.

So, Im going to check vac lines, sfmu/all fuel issue possiblities, the fcd, retap the boost gauge.
Anything I should check? Besides bringing it to the shop and getting the downpipe made.
 
So after looking it over tonight and rechecking the ecu codes, I have determined that somehow the timing is off a tooth. Somehow during the process of putting the belt on it must have slipped a tooth... I dont know but its definatley missing bad. I removed the FCD and got it to idle, but it still misses. Time to tear back down..... *sucks*
 
So after looking it over tonight and rechecking the ecu codes, I have determined that somehow the timing is off a tooth. Somehow during the process of putting the belt on it must have slipped a tooth... I dont know but its definatley missing bad. I removed the FCD and got it to idle, but it still misses. Time to tear back down..... *sucks*

Are you sure? Because something like a slipped tooth could cause internal engine damage...
 
Its definatley not more then one tooth. When the piston is at tdc the cams arnt lined up perfectly where they should be.
We turned the crank before we started it to be sure that everything was going smooth and it was, so no valves hitting pistons or anything.
But I do think thats whats causing the miss. Only other really explainable thing, we got the sfmu down to 28psi, probably running rich but not bad enough to make it miss.
So tear down time on friday.
 
did you do a couple of revolutions? i mean when i did my timing i cranked mine like 3/4 times to make sure the timing was correct. just a thought
 
VelocitàPaola;151628636 said:
Yes, but only being off by one tooth wouldn't hurt anything. Some guys adjust their cam timing more than that with adjustable cam gears.

Touche! Thanks for the correction!
 
Suppose to turn the engine over about 6 times by hand to make sure the timing is still all together. Follow Corbin's writeup to time the car, I did and never had any problems and it was my first time doing a timing belt job.
 
Well its all re-timed.
Still missing not nearly as bad. Got the fuel pressure to go as low as 15psi with the sfmu. Interesting thing is that at idle theres only 5in hg of vacumm. So Im assuming a vacumm leak somewhere... I have no clue, looked all over the place. What should vacumm read at idle? About 20 I assume... As I rev it up, it smoothens out and doesnt miss, sounds perfect.
I have a carchip, basically a datalogger.
When I started the car I got 35 degrees of timing advanced, then as I revved it up then timing went to about 5 degrees BTDC. Then I let it idle for a while agian, and the timing adjusted to 12 degrees ATDC.... then slowly adjusted its way up, I shut it off when it got to 5 degrees BTDC.
 
I don't know what else to check.
I have found however that the cam gears don't line up perfect. I know they don't just turn one tooth they turn a bunch of teeth and almost "pop" into place. I wonder if when I tightened the belt the intake cam gear got turned with the tension. (The intake one seems to be off when I take a ruler to it).
The guy helping me out is sure that is the problem, however I am not so convinced.
People with aftermarket cam gears change the timing by a tooth or more sometimes. But, he seems convinced and it is off so were going to try that next.
 
I am saying that my cam timing is off, and that's possibly what is causing the problem.
So that project will begin today. I will keep you guys updated. I'm going to throw some more pics up here too.
 
If you have doubts about the visual of your timing line up, you are probably still off. When you get it timed on, you will know it, LOL (and yes, use the straight edge). The visual is very clear.

As mentioned before, be sure to spin her a few times and then check marks.

MB
 
Don't you want more than 15 psi of fuel pressure with 315cc injectors?
Yup, I have 20psi-30psi. I might have mis-typed somewhere...

If you have doubts about the visual of your timing line up, you are probably still off. When you get it timed on, you will know it, LOL (and yes, use the straight edge). The visual is very clear.

As mentioned before, be sure to spin her a few times and then check marks.
Thanks Mark, that's exactly what I did last night. Didn't get a chance to start her, but the timing is 100% on so we shall see.
 
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