The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Timing belt issue

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

richi

Probationary Member
7
2
Mar 11, 2015
elizabeth, New Jersey
ok guy s i have a 7bolt 4g63 im doing my timing belt and my timing marks are all lined up everything done right follow youtube videos and vfaq also timing belt kit came with instruction but when i try to put the timing belt around the crank pulley it on line up if the pulley is either 2teeth advanced or retarded. either way im able to rotate it. it doesnt bind it rotates smoothly its just bugging me that it just doesnt fall into place where its supposed to btw the balance shaft also ends up 1-2 teeth off ill add pictures as soon as i can. also did a a cylinder leak down after and everything is still the same so no bent valves yet.
 
You are fighting the slack side of the belt. When a t belt is done correctly all marks will line up having the crank a tooth off will not bend valves but can cause higher rpm problems among other things. Best way I have found to do a t belt is have the crank 1 tooth retarded line the marks on the cams up start on the exhaust side install the belt then wrap it on the intake cam. Run the belt down "making sure the cams do not slip" around the idler pull then around the oil pump sprocket this too should be 1 tooth from lining up with the timing mark. Then around the crank. Now the cams will line up the oil pump is 1 tooth before the mark and the crank is 1 tooth before the mark install the hydraulic tensioner slowly rotate the crank to the timing mark. The oil pump should follow this will take the slack in the belt out of the idler side and all slack should be at the happy face pull side adjustable the happy face and torque it down now remove the pin rotate the engine a few times. Make sure no binding occurs wait 15 min see If the pin reinstalls with next to no force and your done easy Peazy.
 
it was all lined up before with the old belt but it was off by about a tooth on the balance shaft also thats why i came here and ive rotated it more than 10 times thats when i decided to do the leak down just incase.. but im going to do what briansmith suggested ill let you guys know how it goes im dieing to get the motor in my gsx thanks for the quick replys by the way.
 
Are you lining up all the marks first then putting the belt on the cams and working around saving the tensioner side for the last step to pick up the extra slack in the belt..? And the belt is tight in between both cam gears?
 
I will be doing my timing belt soon. I bought a tool that locks the cams for 20 dollars if he would of used that it would correct because the cams cant rotate?
 
or you can use a couple zip ties on the cam gears...either way works, but tool is awesome but not completely needed.

just sounds like you are trying to have the belt on with all the marks lined up out of the gate. doesnt work that way, you could easily pre-load the cam gears, so when you put the belt on, it will put everything dead on after the tensioner takes slack up.

or buy the tool and dont worry about preload. basically you sound like youre trying to skip steps.
 
ok im at work but after i get out ill redo the timing but i bought the tool kit to do the timing it come with a plastic piece to hold the cams the bolt to compress the tensionerand the little tool for the idler with the too holes i even hold the bet on the cams with zip ties but ime just retard by 1 tooth and see if when its all tensioned it lines up
 
The slack is what you are dealing with. BrianSmith's way is one way to get it all in line. You may have to do it a few times to get it to land on the right spot but ALL the marks will line up.
 
If the marks don't line up after turning it over six times... then you need to start the whole job over again, until the marks are all in their proper locations after 6 clockwise turns.

After you Get it all lined up right after 6 turns, let it sit for 15 minutes so the tensioner rod can stabilize, then check to see if the tensioner body to tensioner swing arm, distance is within spec [3.8-4.2 mm is about where I like it to be] if it is then your golden, if not you will need to start the process over again it sounds like a lot, but it's well worth the effort to make sure it's all spot on.
 
ok guys so got it done turned out to be the plastic piece tha goes between the cams to hold them that cam with the kit wasnt let me line up idk how but idc everything is lined up to their marks and retorqued as chilton specifies thanks again
 
LOL more than enough practice doing the timing belt. im glad i had that repair manual best $15 ive ever spent.
 
yea thanks just going to follow the repair manual from now on to avoid the headache
 
or you can use a couple zip ties on the cam gears...either way works, but tool is awesome but not completely needed.

just sounds like you are trying to have the belt on with all the marks lined up out of the gate. doesnt work that way, you could easily pre-load the cam gears, so when you put the belt on, it will put everything dead on after the tensioner takes slack up.

or buy the tool and dont worry about preload. basically you sound like youre trying to skip steps.
I used those clasping paper clips. Works excellent as well.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top