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The 14b Drag Race Discussion Thread

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It's just too simple huh? Too much fun!

Might not hear from the wife for a couple hours even now, she's doing her internship and U of M Hospital and doesn't get much time to look at her phone. I really really really want to take Paul up on this offer (thanks just for offering!) but I still got to check with the pit crew ;)

Since it's on the table. I was going to install an ebrake back in the car so I could learn how to preload for the launch, unfortunately I discovered the mounting points for the cable are screwed up on my frame and the cables will rub on the driveshaft if I don't get that fixed or secure the cables some other way. With that said I can obviously fix that issue with some work. I'd think it's safe to assume launching on slicks without preloading isn't a good idea? Anyone with experience?
 
The slicks will absorb some of the drivetrain shock. If your just going for times and dont care about your reaction times right now you can give it a quick preload right as you go to launch. I say go for it and see what she does. I dont see why you cant dip into the 1.5s and have a lot better 330 times. As long as you hold it together for the night you should have some good times.

Gotta find out that boost drop issue to.
 
Shane, your car's torque and weight are on your side. Preloading is always good, but it very well may not be detrimental to you. A hydraulic brake (staging brake) would be a better option than reinstalling the cable brake, but I understand it's not an option before tomorrow. If you ever decided you want one, hit me up.
 
So preloading wouldn't necessarily be required. Research seemed to show its more important to preload if you have a on/off clutch such as a twin disc. A street disc 2600 lime mine seems to have enough slip to be ok. Still waiting to hear from.the wife...
 
Well here's the thing, last year on the same setup minus the cams, plus 2g pistons I never saw boost fall off. I honestly relate it to the cams, however even with boost falling the car is pulling much harder up top then it did. But, it's an old style buschur mbc in the car, one washer preloading the wastegate.
 
Maybe try adding more washers? I was running 3 washers last time I had a 16g with an internal gate. Another great option would be a modified Holset actuator, which is adjustable in length. My buddy Tyler runs one on his 16G and has no problem holding 30psi all the way to his shift points.
 
Washers are simple and easy, especially since he has a mbc. I had 3 on my last 14b as well. Never got the boost any higher than 18psi, but it held that amount very nicely with a Hallman Pro mbc. I say stick with the washers and adjust the mbc accordingly!
 
My 14b's have always dropped boost in the higher RPM's. Before and after cams (HKS 264's). Before and after 7cm housing. Before and after washers. Before and after a new CHRA. With a MBC and BBG solenoid. It has been discussed on this thread but its not the actual amount of boost but rather the airflow that makes the power. You said you weren't logging, right?
 
At this point even if I get out tomorrow I'm not going to mess with the setup other then perhaps launch rpm if necessary. It's running pretty healthy as is, as Nate said it's been tough to figure out how to hold the boost. I did not log any runs, last time I lost connection to the laptop on every launch so I didn't bother this time.
 
Maybe try adding more washers? I was running 3 washers last time I had a 16g with an internal gate. Another great option would be a modified Holset actuator, which is adjustable in length. My buddy Tyler runs one on his 16G and has no problem holding 30psi all the way to his shift points.

Wonder what the shaft speed is at those shift points?
 
It would literally take about 15 minutes to do start to finish? How is that not simple?

Not having correct tools. Not having or wanting to spend the money on, getting the tools or paying someone to do it. Not calling anyone stupid but some ppl can't change oilplugs on their cars.

Simple to some is complicated to others.

Sb I'm not really familiar with that mbc. I was asking because I made a ball & spring mbc for my car but the spring that I used was to weak and it would spike and fall alot. I could get on it, and do 14-15 then it would fall to 9,8,7,6 whichever.

Got a hbc and 14 feet of vacuum line. Its setup in btwn j-pipe and actuator. Now,i have steady boost till shift adjustable in cockpit. Loving it.
 
It would literally take about 15 minutes to do start to finish? How is that not simple?

Lets see...I don't own a tap and die set, so that means I personally would have to spend about 45 min or so just going to the store to buy a tap and die set. If I didn't do it that way, I would have to spend the same time, or probably longer for a shop to do it...plus pay the additional cost. For most of us, we probably have a handful (if not more) washers laying around that would work just fine and I wouldn't have to spend any extra money and less time than threading the end.

The best mbc I have owned is the GFB atomic mbc. It's not a ball and spring. It holds way more consistent and less spike than I've seen on any ball and spring mbc. Read up on it. I can get them for a good deal if anyone is interested in them! I'm not here to make a sell, just let you guys know it's the one that has worked best for me on the 14b...over 3 other ball and spring mbc including an ebay, hallman es and hallman pro!
 
My 14b's have always dropped boost in the higher RPM's. Before and after cams (HKS 264's). Before and after 7cm housing. Before and after washers. Before and after a new CHRA. With a MBC and BBG solenoid. It has been discussed on this thread but its not the actual amount of boost but rather the airflow that makes the power. You said you weren't logging, right?

This. I switched from a Hallman to ECU controlled boost through V3 and didn't see any change in boost. We're running this turbo at choke flow, if it's not falling off up top it means you're not maxing the turbo out yet.
 
Agree on the falloff with rpm. I set my v3 boost noid map to 100% on the third pass and forgot it. I'm down in the 14psi range before the shifts too.

That's good to know Nate! Makes me feel a little bit better about it. What psi were you peaking at? I'm pretty sure it hit as high as 23 psi on a pass but it's tough to look over at the boost gauge. I only did a 3/4 turn on the mbc which usually only adds 1 psi but I might have been right at the threshold of hitting 23 so I'm pretty sure that is what it hits, seems to hit it and start dropping from what I can tell. It'd be nice to throw a map sensor in and log what it's doing.
 
23psi is pretty high on the little 14b. I know pneumo hit 25psi on his 14b when it was putting down 325whp to the wheels! But like you said it hit that number and starting dropping right after.

Once I get my clutch swapped and get some other small things ironed out, I'll be putting in some race gas and putting on a 21psi actuator...we'll see how that turns out...hopefully in the next couple of months or less.
 
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