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The 14b Drag Race Discussion Thread

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Last time I checked it was 22" for 13" and 23" for the 15" wheel.

The 14b setup can only be pushed so far. I really didn't wanna have to buy such a small slick new. Worse case I reinstall my awd trans and I can run the 24.5s.

I forgot all about the base model sporting 14" wheel from the factory. I just can't downgrade now since I drilled my hubs out for a 1/2 r/t x 3.5" wheel stud so I can comfortably run my weld draglite wheels.

Your gonna need to step up outta those radials and into a bias ply to get that car to hook good. Just the the bias ply runs makes all the difference. The radial is just to stiff to leave enough footprint on the ground.

Well I am going to be buying a pair of slicks and rims new so I want to make sure I'm getting the ideal setup. I am deffenitly selling the DR's and buying a true bias ply slick. I have a FWD trans and that is what I will be running. I'm just worried (call it traumatized) that 8" may not be wide enough. M&H actually makes a 22x9x13 slick (pn#MHR05). What are your thoughts on that in regards to a 14b? Overkill or worth considering?
 
Pics on the goodwill site from the "tens" track day show the 5 spokes. There's no mention in his log about switching to 26" slick
Goodwill9

There's no other track day mentions so it appears he went from a best of 11.2 straight to 10.8! Having spoken to him before about it, the big changes were the liquid to air and the haltech ecu for tuning. But, from his log it appeared that he had those before the shootout. 4 tenths is a huge drop, it came from somewhere!

Ok, cool. My thought was that it would be on his page. I still think the 24 will work well with the fwd...
 
I ran a 24.5" slick on my first fwd laser. Only mods were the slicks, a mbc at 15psi and some 100 octane fuel. Also had 100 lb removed. Car went 13.8 @ 96 mph with a slipping clutch. The 24.5 works great on fwd in my opinion.
 
Phil you where right. I've been chatting with Joe a little and towards the end of his writeup on project goodwill he did switch over to the awd trans and the 26x10 slick. He said it was around the section that he mentioned needing a scattershield.

I think I was just left to assume he was still on a fwd and 22" tire combo since there wasnt much about that on project goodwill or on the forums. Only mention of running 26s where on dsmtalk in 07.

So with that its looking less promising running a 22" slick to try and reach the 14b record. So for me, my hunt for 22s are over. Ill run the 24.5s that I have and If I dont like it, I'll get my awd trans fixed and swap over to my 26s.
 
Alright, thanks for the clarity. Didn't seem right, especially those mphs! But, I was starting to think at least the fwd trans was right. Either way that car hauled the mail! Still amazing that the closest pass is still a half second behind it.

I started gutting my doors today, I don't have any decent drill bits or a spot weld cutter so I'm gutting out as much as I can without it anyways. Drivers door got 8.5lbs out. Need a new metal cutting wheel to finish the passenger side. Probably going to be about 4lbs left in the crash beam on each side until I can get a spot weld cutter, using drillbits sucks.
 
Phil you where right. I've been chatting with Joe a little and towards the end of his writeup on project goodwill he did switch over to the awd trans and the 26x10 slick. He said it was around the section that he mentioned needing a scattershield.

I think I was just left to assume he was still on a fwd and 22" tire combo since there wasnt much about that on project goodwill or on the forums. Only mention of running 26s where on dsmtalk in 07.

So with that its looking less promising running a 22" slick to try and reach the 14b record. So for me, my hunt for 22s are over. Ill run the 24.5s that I have and If I dont like it, I'll get my awd trans fixed and swap over to my 26s.

Oh,no kidding......ok....thanks for ironing it out anyway!
 
I started gutting my doors today, I don't have any decent drill bits or a spot weld cutter so I'm gutting out as much as I can without it anyways. Drivers door got 8.5lbs out. Need a new metal cutting wheel to finish the passenger side. Probably going to be about 4lbs left in the crash beam on each side until I can get a spot weld cutter, using drillbits sucks.


If you cut the ends of the crash beams near the end they just pull out with some muscle. They are connected to the door by rubber pretty much.

If I were to do mine again I would use some wire to "saw" through the back because when you pull on them it creates dimples where that rubber is at.

Also I went to help a friend put together a stock car last weekend. Surprised me with telling me he is keeping his abandoned drag car.

Thing weighs 2400lbs with a 10pt cage. The fun part is he wants to play with a 14b so I may be joining in this thread more often when we start back on the car.
 
Yep, this is my second time gutting doors so I'm familiar. Took an easy 18lbs out just cutting the crash beam out, probably another easy 10lbs. if I decided to get a little crazier and once I decide to invest in a spot weld cutter. As I said, I am not using drillbits for it, did that with my first set of doors and it sucked.

Sounds like a solid start to a project you guys got there, get to it.

Installed crank window assemblies today. Saved 2lbs. total not including maybe another lb. in wiring. At least the windows go up and down now.
 
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Yep, this is my second time gutting doors so I'm familiar. Took an easy 18lbs out just cutting the crash beam out, probably another easy 10lbs. if I decided to get a little crazier and once I decide to invest in a spot weld cutter. As I said, I am not using drillbits for it, did that with my first set of doors and it sucked.

Sounds like a solid start to a project you guys got there, get to it.

Installed crank window assemblies today. Saved 2lbs. total not including maybe another lb. in wiring. At least the windows go up and down now.

Now that you're in the 11's, every pound counts! If it's 2 lbs. or 10 lbs., take it and run. My taeget weight for my car is 2100 or under. Funny thing is, that's bringing my cars' weight to Bucci's RACE weight...
 
His driverless car was 1980lbs. Can you get an awd that light Phil??

hmmm.....and he was 260 himself he said, so his race weight was 2240? or so. I don't think my AWD will be that light. I think I can come close to his race weight though. My last weigh in was 2460. But even if I can match his race weight, theres still the driveline disadvantage. However, if I can match his weight I expect to be out front to the 1/8, it will depend on how much I ''lose'' over the second 1/8. So, I expect to run sub 7.0 to the 1/8, and then see how the overall falls....
 
Yep, he claimed race weight was right around 2240 Phil. That's why we always comment on how the car could have been even lighter. I think if you can get close to that number you'll also be close to his ET number, hopefully on the lower side ;)

Every pound does count, it's tough with a "street car" but I'm finding spots to get rid stuff. I've gotten the car lighter every year and there will still be some left for next year.
 
Its not all about the weight......

:D Start making some runs and come back here and say that. Even with the most power you can make on a 14b you're going to have to shed the weight if you want to come close to the record. Your project sounds like you're on the right track so far though, but I'll bet you'll get bit by the weight loss bug even more. Right now my car is still pretty heavy by 14b standards, especially with stock wheels and radial street tires.

But, if you're not going to get crazy making your car light you have to make more power then anybody else. It's really not going to happen unless you're just looking for the nitrous times. There aren't any secrets to making power with a small turbo and most things have been tried. But, we've discussed all this in this thread already.
 
Its not all about the weight......

It isn't ALL about the weight.......but in this arena I'd place 70% on weight and 30% on power.

However, there is that thing called DRIVING too....
 
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I would put maybe 20% on weight. Look at shit like suspension setup. How much contact do you have at full squat? Positive or negative camber? Or hey how much are you torque loading your bearings? And are they new? Sorry but you people place too much on weight loss alone. Sure I did lots. I'll be in the 2500s with me in the car. But most of my focus has been on engine, transmission and most of all suspension.

Betcha I'm the only one chasing 14b with a dog box ;)
 
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I would put maybe 20% on weight. Look at shit like suspension setup. How much contact do you have at full squat? Positive or negative camber? Or hey how much are you torque loading your bearings? And are they new? Sorry but you people place too much on weight loss alone. Sure I did lots. I'll be in the 2500s with me in the car. But most of my focus has been on engine, transmission and most of all suspension.

Betcha I'm the only one chasing 14b with a dog box ;)

So mid 1.4 60 fts. aren't good enough? You can put all the time into suspension that you want but you're not going to best the 60 fts that have already been cut with the 14b by enough to make up for weight loss. Plus 2500 w/driver is pretty light so obviously you'll be putting alot of effort into it! But, perhaps you should go out and make some passes before you start dismissing what's already been done. :thumb: It's not as easy as it looks, and it doesn't exactly look easy.
 
Pretty sure the torque coming from my 10.5:1 long rod might help with the 60's but hey what do I know. Torque helps nothing apparently.

Not at all what I said, just that making up for a couple hundred pound weight disadvantage isn't going to be overcome by having a 60 ft. even a full tenth quicker then what has already been accomplished, 1.46 to be exact. I'm not knocking your build, I've already said it looks like you're doing things right and I'm impressed so far. You've got all the right ideas. But, in the end stroker, high compression, whatever you're still limited to a 14b which is only going to flow so much air! Prove what's been done several times before wrong and I'll eat my words. But, saying weight isn't one of the most important parts of the equation simply doesn't compute.
 
All of these 14b shots seem to be on a budget. I have things in the rear of my car that people have never seen before. Just saying, I think I found a trick.
 
Yep, he claimed race weight was right around 2240 Phil. That's why we always comment on how the car could have been even lighter. I think if you can get close to that number you'll also be close to his ET number, hopefully on the lower side ;)

Every pound does count, it's tough with a "street car" but I'm finding spots to get rid stuff. I've gotten the car lighter every year and there will still be some left for next year.

For some reason I thought it was 2100. Oops.

Only time will tell, I'd like to think it's possible.

But an auto solves that problem ROFL

Auto solves the problem of ?



I would put maybe 20% on weight. Look at shit like suspension setup. How much contact do you have at full squat? Positive or negative camber? Or hey how much are you torque loading your bearings? And are they new? Sorry but you people place too much on weight loss alone. Sure I did lots. I'll be in the 2500s with me in the car. But most of my focus has been on engine, transmission and most of all suspension.

Betcha I'm the only one chasing 14b with a dog box ;)

I betcha you're another talker. Take your ass to the dragstrip, then come talk.
 
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