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Stock Rebuild

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Depends on what your asking

Are you planning on rebuilding it yourself and asking what the cost of parts will be..

Or are you having a shop order the parts, rebuild the motor, then drop it back into the car....
 
Depends on what your asking

Are you planning on rebuilding it yourself and asking what the cost of parts will be..

Or are you having a shop order the parts, rebuild the motor, then drop it back into the car....

+1. Also depends what quality work you want done or will do if doing yourself.
 
We just finished up a pretty much stock rebuild on a 6 bolt motor. The machine work and parts came to just over $2500.

Non stock parts that added to the cost where:

ARP main studs
ARP head studs
ARP rod bolts
Mitsu MLS head gasket
 
I'm talking about 100% bone stock.
and with someone who has all the equipment to do so.
Because I don't have all the awesome little tools.
And I don't have a cherry pickers, or a engine
stand. pretty much the main boy tools to do it.

Thats what I want to know.
 
Lets see did mine last year
rings =150.00
main and rod bearings = 200-220
gasket set =150.00
BSE kit =50
machine shop = 85.00
Arp head studs = 75.00
all parts stock from mitsu,did it myself in one day,we would probably charge 12hrs at 70.00 for labor.Just to give you an idea
 
Absolute cheapest stock rebuild I've ever done was to my buddy's non-turbo 1G.

The head needed replaced due to a broken timing belt that bent the exhaust valves and damaged the guides. The broken timing belt was caused by an uneducated mechanic who replaced the oil pan and installed two long bolts which literally split the timing belt in half. The timing belt that was destroyed was less than 10k old; there were invoices in the glove box of the car showing the belts, pulleys, and water pump were replaced just two years and 10k prior to us acquiring the car. The car was purchased not-running for $200.


We bought:

- Used head in good shape; $50. I dropped all the valves out of the new head, degreased the head myself, lapped all (16) valves back in with new valve seals. I also worked the surface of the head as flat as possible with a large sanding block and a straight edge.

- eBay rebuild kit; $95. This included a full Evergreen Automotive gasket set, new NPR rings, and ACL bearings.

- New Dayco timing belt, balance shaft belt, and OEM tensioner; $145.


...and that's literally all. The engine was rebuilt and running in one week without ever pulling the block out of the car. The items that we're replaced were the oil pump (we should've changed this- the car suffers with low oil pressure at idle), the front and rear seals, and the balance shaft bearings. Everything else was serviced. The engine is still running awesome to this day.
 

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Thats impressive^^^. I would still pull the motor to get to those balance shaft bearings and rear and front seals.
 
Thats impressive^^^. I would still pull the motor to get to those balance shaft bearings and rear and front seals.
Don't think I didn't recommend that. The direction this rebuild went was all up to the owner, who was budgeted for time as well as money (as always).

If it were up to me, the engine would've come out and the car would've had a new clutch (like $95 for a non-turbo), new front case and oil pump, as well as a balance shaft elimination and the front and rear seals replaced.


What's funny is after the initial purchase of the car, we diagnosed the issue and installed a used timing belt. My buddy drove this car for almost 4k with cylinder #1 at a whopping 0 psi until he found a head and the rebuild parts within a realm of pricing he was willing to pay.
 
That cost seems pretty high, what all exactly did you do?

Machine Work:
Hot Tank
Check For Cracks
Hone
Balance Rotating Assembly
Media Blast Rods / Pistons
Pressure Test Head
Clean Head
Polish Crank
Surface Head & Deck For MLS Gasket

Parts Wise:
Everything else is new (OEM Mitsubishi) except the block, pistons, rods, crank, oil pan, cylinder head, and damper. (everything meaning like timing covers, bolts, etc.)
 
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