Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Leonthefaded]

I didnt know it was supposed to go to -7 when cranking that gives me an idea about my no start.

 

[fastgt1990]

me either but i still don't know what to do now, unless that means something with the ecu. and sorry i forgot no i don't have a logger.

 

[Grizbomb1684]

Do u have spark at all? If so is it a blue color or yellowish? Do u have any cel codes?

 

[Dave4g63]

I've done a 6 bolt swap on my 95 GST, and like so many other people can't get it started, i've tested it as shown here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152299200-post2.html i can rotate the CAS by hand tho and the injectors will work, fuel pump kicks on and i get spark. i have compression, i have fuel pressure, mechanical timing is right, the CAS isn't 180 out and i have drained the gas and replaced with fresh 91 with octane boost. i wired my CAS in with the RRE Method #2 RRE Instructions my ECU is in good working order, my scanner is showing RPM's when cranking, im seeing 71 degrees for IAT about the same for Coolant Temp. Since the car does have Spark and Fuel does that mean that my CAS is good even though it failed the test? i really don't wanna spend an extra $200 if its not my problem. thanks

 

[triggerx]

Did you end up replacing that ecu? Honestly I would try just switching it out if you have one laying around just to rule out that issue. Also check the battery. Honestly it could be somethin simple like that

 

[Dave4g63]

yeah its a full 6 bolt swap

 

[gofer]

You're running a '95 ECU which is expecting an inverted CAS signal, with a 1g CAS so you must do this...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[dsm'r sk1mp]

Are you running a green top or black top CAS

 

[Dave4g63]

sorry forgot to mention i already have swapped the firing order to that

 

[Dave4g63]

green top

 

[dsm'r sk1mp]

I know when I did my swap the car wouldn't start with three different CAS. I found a black top and it fired right up.

Green tops are mechanical firing, black top is LED. I know a lot of guys use black tops for full six bolt swaps in a 2g

 

[Dave4g63]

i've tested my fuel injector, coil pack, new wires , new plugs , changed my firing order, this engine was pulled from a 97 gst, before that a 90 GSX , it was operating in both vehicles before i got it.

 

[dsm'r sk1mp]

I'm going look into this real quick and call some one.

What I think you should do is get a really long straw or pencil or something to that order. Pull your plugs and disconnect your fuel relay. Place the straw or whatever you choose into the spark plug whole. Have some one turn it over and watch the spark and straw. That will tell you were your sparking and the straw or whatever you use will tell you exactly were your piston head is.

 

[steve]

Yep light comes on and goes off boost goes to 0 but not -7 when cranking.

I'm not able to verify my memory by double checking my car but I'm pretty sure the factory boost gauge drops into vacuum as soon as you start cranking and stays there if the engine starts or goes back to zero when you release the starter. So it sounds like the ECU isn't seeing that your cranking or isn't seeing an indication of manifold vacuum.

Since you say there was a difference between the way things behaved with the CAS on the engine and off, can you describe the differences in more detail?

If you changed something and it didn't make a difference did you put the old part back on?

I don't remember what you said your compression was?
While I'm not done ruleing out electrical issues you said that you already followed all the tests in the no start guide so you should have lots of hard data to share from those tests.

 

[icekilla126]

Go over your wiring three times. Make sure you switched the pins at the ecm correctly.

 

[Aproductions]

This is on a 96 RS

I just swapped a fuel rail in (other one was leaking) and now I am getting no spark.

I also in the meantime took out a 1/2 put together security system.

Anyways I confirmed I am getting fuel using one of those noid lights so I know my problem is spark (also the spark tester I have didn't blink when I cranked like the fuel one did).

So my questions are what should I check? cam angle sensor, coil sensor what else?

Also, would having messed up the ignition (under the steering wheel) affect this? I am 99% sure everything is setup stock with the wiring there.

 

[96' Eclipse GS]

I'm sure, you checked your Ign. coil, and from that you will need to back track. Seeing if it is a Wiring problem you may have invoke on frying something or a connector you did not connector. It has happened to me, Just thoughts?

 

[dsm'r sk1mp]

You pulled a half put together security system out?? Make sure you didn't mess anything up while you were doing that, also make sure u didn't accidently cut a wire during the removal. Test your volts from the spark plugs back to the coil pack

 

[Aproductions]

Test your volts from the spark plugs back to the coil pack

How do you do that?

Sorry my weakness is anything electrical. also for the 1/2 put together security system, nothing was cut just tapped into. SO I removed all the crap and covered the exposed wires.

ANyways so what is the proper order to check things relating to spark? I need like a list of what to do first and what the ranges should be.

 

[dsm'r sk1mp]

Start by removing the fuel relay on your positive terminal(I believe its the middle one but I may be way off) the you remove the plugs one by one placing each one being tested on the exaust manifold. Have some one turn it over to see if you have spark. If you don't see spark remove the plug from the wire plce it back on the manifold making sure the end is very close to a bolt. Turn it over again(repeat for each plug and wire) if there is no spark, you need to test the coil packs with a volt meter. Report back with results and we can go from there.

 

[Aproductions]

Well as I said I connected that tester to the coil and wire and it did not flash when I cranked the car over. So right there doesn't that say I am not getting anything there?

I am gonna try the coil sensor, cam sensor and crank sensor. What value should those be at? Also what is the proper way to test them?

 

[dsm'r sk1mp]

Well I can tell you off the top of my head for a 1g but 2g NT isnt my special. And how is it you dont k.ow these things when you have over 1500 posts.im sure the problem is a bad con.ection some were in your ignition

 

[elterror]

I would go over the plugs to make sure they are plugged in correctly!

 

[Aproductions]

Well I can tell you off the top of my head for a 1g but 2g NT isnt my special. And how is it you dont k.ow these things when you have over 1500 posts.im sure the problem is a bad con.ection some were in your ignition

I didn't know having posts makes you know everything. 2 things, one is that I just bought this car and never had a 420a before. two is that I never had an ignition problem before.

I would go over the plugs to make sure they are plugged in correctly!

Yeah I will recheck everything tomorrow. I will check the crank, cam and coil sensors and then go from there. I could've swore I saw a thread somewhere before that was like a no spark solver. It started by saying "do this first then if this happens check this" and in the end it would solve your no spark issue.

 

[fastgt1990]

I'm not able to verify my memory by double checking my car but I'm pretty sure the factory boost gauge drops into vacuum as soon as you start cranking and stays there if the engine starts or goes back to zero when you release the starter. So it sounds like the ECU isn't seeing that your cranking or isn't seeing an indication of manifold vacuum.

Since you say there was a difference between the way things behaved with the CAS on the engine and off, can you describe the differences in more detail?

If you changed something and it didn't make a difference did you put the old part back on?

I don't remember what you said your compression was?
While I'm not done ruleing out electrical issues you said that you already followed all the tests in the no start guide so you should have lots of hard data to share from those tests.

i did change the ecu out with the 91-94 ecu, now i did get the car to start tonight and drove it down the street, it was kinda crappy on power on the low end till it starts building boost, then it ran like a beast for about a mile then all of a sudden it killed over and would barely run back to the house. and now back to no start again. and if i changed something out it was normally with a brand new part, besides the ecu and the cas. now with a 90 model will the 91-94 ecu work fine in it with not problems as long as i swap pin 6 and 14?

Do u have spark at all? If so is it a blue color or yellowish? Do u have any cel codes?

crap to be honest i would have to go back and check again i don't even remember that was one of the first things i did. and nope i don't think i have any cel codes since my cel light doesn't stay on.