Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[007jimmy]

Funny you mention that. I just bought this car 2 weeks ago and I HAD it running (thought the speedo never worked). So I should unplug the speed sensor and then try and start the car?

side note, what do I need to do to fix the speedo? just buy a new sensor and clean the connector? I know I read something about an input and output sensor.

The VSS controls your speedo. If the VSS is bad then your speedo isn't going to work. The tach should work though. "If" your VSS is a known working unit then your speedo could be bad itself. The sensor has one bolt 10mm holding it in and pull it out to see if the gear on it is trashed or missing. Check the connection of the clip on the VSS and your harness. Might even be just a bad connection.. If the gear is missing you have a bigger problem..

 

[Aproductions]

Thanks so tomorrow I will check the VSS (connectors and sensor) and the CAS as well. I will post back with results.

 

[krazy4]

Just gives you a reason to stroke it now. Lol.

Yeah right, I don't have that kinda money. I was gonna spray the shit out of it and try to run 11s for $1000 total.

 

[reyg]

$1000 is a small budget for our cars. Imo.

 

[krazy4]

$1000 is a small budget for our cars. Imo.

If I didn't have to rebuild the motor, I could have done it. The car was going to be insanely light and the nitrous would have made enough power.

 

[kchaazz]

So, did you check out that timing again? Id like to see a pic of your marks, if you check it the way I described previously, as they can be off a bit without bending valves. Also, given that the compression readings were even across the board, albeit low (which I attribute to the engine being dead cold during the test) Id say your valves may not be bent at all.

 

[krazy4]

So, did you check out that timing again? Id like to see a pic of your marks, if you check it the way I described previously, as they can be off a bit without bending valves. Also, given that the compression readings were even across the board, albeit low (which I attribute to the engine being dead cold during the test) Id say your valves may not be bent at all.

When at TDC on the #1 piston it looks like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Sorry, my camera broke so I just drew this up. Red line would be the centerline.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

That can't be right. Are you sure your are not at TDC for the exhaust stroke?

**quick other note** Old fuel WILL clog injectors. I had 93 Octane in my tank for a year. While Installing the new fuel system I completely drained the tank. 5 year old gas WILL gum up your fuel system.

Try this:
Remove upper intercooler hose from Throttle body.
Have some read to spray the living crap out of the inside of your intake manifold with the starter fluid or brake cleaner
Before starting the car hold the car at WOT, let your buddy spray the intake manifold for about 3 seconds.
Start the car and let him spray it until the car is running.
WARNING: In some cases a back fire can result.

If the car is runs with fluid this would mean that your timing and ignition system is in good health. Just need to figure out why you aren't getting fuel.

Try a set if known, good used injectors. You can even get a set of N/T spark plugs to see if it will kick over.

Use a multi meter to see if you are getting any power at the injectors

 

[wilderg88]

i might be lucky as hell but my car jumped timing Twice and survived. both times in the same month. if you know how to do timing i would redo timing and go from there it might still be salvigable

 

[krazy4]

I already started tearing the car apart to part it out.

It definitely looked the car jumped timing. Pretty sure the injectors were working, because after cranking the car I pulled the plugs and they had an even reading. They also smelled of fuel.

 

[cantgo2fast]

So I went to go test the battery cable thing today and the battery was TOTALLY dead .78V so there is either a massive draw somewhere or my alarm system, which was in it when I bought it is constantly going off. Could this have been the reason all along?

 

[Dave4g63]

i've swapped the injector pins and still nothing, i can't get it to run, before i was getting combustion in the intake manifold , that seems to have stopped now all my sensors seem to be responding to my scanner, im just out of ideas at this point

 

[NHerron]

My bad if you already know this but be careful the way recharging a battery that dead if you plan too. It should be tricklecharged, not jump-charged or anything over 5amps. Can you just get it replaced?

Anyway, I recommend after getting a new battery to do this. Take the DVOM, set on the 10 amp setting (at least 5A<) and place in series between the battery negative post and battery negative cable. This will show how much amperage is flowing with key off. Sounds like what you suggested that you have a massive current draw. So once you see how much is flowing, start pulling fuses/relays one at a time paying attention to the DVOM screen. Make note of any big current drops. Oh and keep an eye on your DVOM wires to make sure they don't start to melt in case your close to the max amperage rating of the DVOM

 

[Grizbomb1684]

unless the fuel guage just went out then yep it has a 1/4 tank in her.

also while im thinking about it, the ecu does it have to be bolted back into place to work properly? i mean do the bolts act as a ground or anything to that sort.

Mine runs fine not bolted in don't think bolts are ground, do u have good clean battery terminals? Have u ohmed coil packs make sure there with in spec? Coolant temp sensor/ circuit?

 

[fastgt1990]

its got a new coolant temp sensor in it, but no i haven't ohmed the coil packs yet.

 

[Jafro]

Have you checked the firing order since swapping the pins? If you have air and spark, timing is all that's left. I have faith that your mechanical timing is correct. If you're using the 1g cas, is it the square plug or triangle plug?

 

[aruiz714]

It's was the main relay....fml thanks for the support though

 

[Dave4g63]

im using the Early Greentop 89-90 with my 95 CAS and 95 CKP Connectors wired on with the RRE method 2 with the injector pins swapped, i've tried both firing orders right now using the stock firing order but i've used the other one Gofer posted and still got nothing, i've read that if your using the 2g coil pack to use the stock order but neither order is working. im using a 6 bolt block, head , thermostat housing, and flywheel, everything else is 2g 7 bolt, im using all my stock 2g sensors except the CAS.i've deleted my EGR and capped all vaccum lines off. the car cranks and sounds like it wants to start but just dosen't.

 

[0r1landoDSM]

i hear a knocking noise only during cold start then goes away when car is warmed up. i have a bad iac and the car idles really low at cold start

 

[RadDsm]

Look up "lifter tick".

 

[keltalon]

i hear a knocking noise during cold start then goes away when car is warmed up. i have a bad iac and the car idles really low at cold start

Next time you change your oil examine your oil and look for any glitter just to rule out the possibility that the bottom end is responsible for the noise.

 

[chadillac2820]

Both of the above are good suggestions. When the car is cold, have some one start it for you while you listen in the engine compartment to determine a more specific location of the noise. Generally a bottom end problem will have a deeper tone or "knock" and an upper engine issue I.e. piston wrist pin, valve lash clearance or lifter problem will have a higher pitched "tick"

 

[chadillac2820]

Also if you have a gauge available, check oil pressure during start up and when warm

 

[0r1landoDSM]

Look up "lifter tick".

dont think its a lifter tick, actually gets quieter when i rev it slightly below 1k rpm.

 

[nickk90]

dont think its a lifter tick, actually gets quieter when i rev it slightly below 1k rpm.

Thats because its filling the lifters with oil and inflating them. Mine tick for a few seconds and a few quick revs makes it go away.