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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yea the lifters pumping up and the noise goes away is a good possibility but you really need to listen to it to see if.its in the head or block
 
Thats because its filling the lifters with oil and inflating them. Mine tick for a few seconds and a few quick revs makes it go away.

i wouldn't rev my car above 1k during cold start but yeah since my car rev's really low during cold start due to my bad iac i assume its normal? if i rev it about 900 rpm its gets quieter not louder

Yea the lifters pumping up and the noise goes away is a good possibility but you really need to listen to it to see if.its in the head or block

i'll listen carefully tomorrow morning when i start the car
 
Lifted tick will go away as the rpms go up. If you have a spun bearing in the bottom end, it will get worse as the rpms increase.
Look on YouTube for sound clips of what they both sound like.
 
problem i had one time if may applie to yours if you havent checked allready little wire that leads to starter caused mine not to start once im new trying to prove myself so if this is a stupid reply dont bash me jus trying to help hope ya get it fixed also look for frayed wires could be sensor wire that got burnt through from heat in motor bay
 
yea i'm about to put a whole new wiring harness in and new sensors LOL but i have no idea where to buy a new one. i have a spare tsi harness but i dont know if i want to put another used one in ### it could have problems also.
 
havent even hooked it up yet LOL i wanted to start it and make sure it was fairly ok before i bought the exhaust. turns out i might just be scrapping the car anyway so good thing i didnt because exhaust arent cheap LOL
 
Have you tried the coolant temp sensor, that speaks to the ecu, in the thermostat housing, it could be bad, it caused issues with flooding in my car.
 
I have a 2 g so may be different. Have you changed your timing lately? Or new timing belt. Did this all of the sudden just happen? I have had this problem and I timed my timing belt wrong and I was 180 out. To fix the problem I just simply put my spark plug wires 180 out and bam runs like a champ. put 1 where 4 is and so on... Hope this helps.

Don't just go buy new sensors either. They are hard to tell if they are in fact bad and you will most likely waste money. I learned the hard way LOL have like 4 new sensors I didn't need in the first place.
 
the temp sensor i'm going to replace anyway ### i tried testing it and i didnt get the numbers i was suppose to and it ran crappy then wouldnt even start. and yea just throwing money at it isnt the smartest thing but this car is making me feel pretty darn stupid LOL and ill try the wire thing u mentioned, even tho 1 and 4 fire together at the same time and 2 and 3 do the same thing LOL but if it worked for you ill give it a try. and its timed right mechanically.

ok so heres an update. i changed injectors, fuel rail and fpr, coil, and pt and temp sensor and the car wouldnt do anything. so i put the na ecu in and it started and runs very very rich and sputters but did start. any ideas?
 
Ya I always charge on the 2A setting. Going to measure the resistance today and if that comes up fine then I will try to see if there some sort of draw on the system like you said
 
hey, i just completely rebuilt the motor, new pistons, head, valves, everything. the timing is right, its getting fuel, the spark is fine. everything seems to be fine. it has a new cam and crank sensor. it will rarely back fire, the ground is fine, i don't know what it could be.

thanks.

its a 95 tsi
 
Have you checked the compression. IF you are getting fuel and spark than it is compression or timing related.
 
I recently bought a 97 talon tsi shell to swap my old cars engine into. The 97 was sitting since 08 without any inspection. Engine was running fine and everything before i switched it over to the other car, it came out of a 95 talon tsi. Upon installing everything i'm almost positive everything was installed correctly, used a manual for the talon to hook everything back up. Starting the car up the first time needed to give it gas in order for the ignition to turn over and get it started. I had to give it gas in order for the car to stay on, or else it would die out and stall. Only error codes were a p0141 and a p1105, the 0141 is a o2 sensor which i have not hooked up yet, but i dont think that would be the problem but not sure. The other code was for the fuel pressure solenoid, had one from the 95 that was working switched it over and the code went away. Also adjusted the throttle cable position to try and raise the idle a little bit and that helped some, but the idle is rough up until maybe 1500 rpm. And whenever i give the car throttle to try and keep it from stalling the oil light on the dash lights up, when there is no throttle it is off, and the oil pressure gauge does not work. Also the EGR valve was previously blocked off from the previous owner of my 95 talon that i took the motor out of i hooked it up, and also blocked it again to see if that was the problem but no deal. Not sure what the problem could be or how to fix it. Any ideas?
 
Hook up the 02 sensor.The ecu uses the 02 for idle and low rpm .And when you adjust the idle you just screw out the idle screw on top of the throttle body untill it idles where you like it.

But hook up the 02 sensor and see if it takes care of the problem
 
Alright ill try the o2 sensor, ya i just havent gotten it hooked up yet, its the one on the exhaust back behind the catalytic converter, and cant get to the plug so i need to pull out the seat and go under the carpet.
 
Correct me if Im wrong anyone... but if the OP is using the ecu out of the 97 then he has to switch his ignition wires to that of the 95-96 right?
 
Also the EGR valve was previously blocked off from the previous owner of my 95 talon that i took the motor out of i hooked it up, and also blocked it again to see if that was the problem but no deal. Not sure what the problem could be or how to fix it. Any ideas?

Did you plug the nipples on the TB when the egr was blocked-off?


I dont remember if the rear o2 really mattered that much

The rear o2 checks if the CAT Convertor is working correctly & etc so the OP should be fine without it plugged in.


Correct me if Im wrong anyone... but if the OP is using the ecu out of the 97 then he has to switch his ignition wires to that of the 95-96 right?

Depends on what CAS he's using 95 or the 97.
 
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