Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[schumannj]

lights blinkers and alarm system works.. the radio is a dvd/tv and that doesnt open or turn on..

 

[1983gsp]

Check the main alt fuse...should be 80 amps, matter of fact, check all your fuses.

 

[schumannj]

am i looking for a blown fuse?

 

[1983gsp]

Yes....

The p.o. touched the + & - wires together when he removed the subs.

 

[schumannj]

yea the positive and neg touch when he took the amp out and when they touched they smoked

 

[Bytz]

Ended up being bad gas. Popped the intercooler piping off and sprayed some QuickStart into the throttle body while holding it WOT. Cranked it over, it burned a lot of bad gas then I added a jerrycan of 94 octane to balance it out.

Hope this solves other people's problems!

Cheers.

 

[ghoti]

It would probably be a good idea to drain anything in the fuel tank and start fresh so you get rid of all the bad gas.

 

[PFC_CiarlilloM]

I found the problem and this thread has now been resolved.

 

[93laser1g]

93 laser awd auto, a couple months ago i had a problem with my car not starting, i heard it was the isc i replaced it still had the same problem. then someone told me the cas so i replaced it same problem. so i got a new battery and new spark plugs and boom it started right up and ran good it idled at 750 temp was good no knocking nothing like that. that was about a month ago since then i put almost 700 miles on it but i was only driving in the city. now yesterday i drove another 100 miles in town before leaving for milwaukee with no problems i got to milwaukee and stopped at citgo to get gas i put in 93 octane premium gas how your supposed to. when i went to start the car it cranked and started for a couple seconds running very rough then shut off. i tried again same thing. last time i changed plugs there was alot of carbon build up but them plugs are only a month old. so i don't know what to do im going back to try to mess with it today does anybody have any idea of what went wrong? or atleast the cheapest way to get a flatbed to go get it?

 

[x3N3MY of G0Dx]

Not to sound retarted but the first thing i would do is change the fuel filter and check fuel pressure.

 

[93laser1g]

Not to sound retarted but the first thing i would do is change the fuel filter and check fuel pressure.

I just changed the fuel filter 10k ago, but i will check it anyway

 

[BurrowZ]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

That will help tremendously.

If you are running rich at all your plugs will get fouled. This is usually caused from a boost leak, and I noticed your car is stock otherwise so I am leaning towards that.

Is your BOV recirculated?

What kind of plugs are you using?

 

[Skorcher]

just bought a 99 eclipse gs yesterday and it was working fine. now today i went to go start it and it did absolutely nothing. i turn the key and nothing happened no sound nothing.. is that the battery?.... now the hatch problem is that i pull the trunk release it pops but it doesnt come up i go to pull the hatch up but it feels like its still lockd i try putting the key in but it doesnt turn.. i dont know what to do and i think becuz the hatch doesnt open or close it drained the battery does any1 know a way to get the hatch open??

The problem I have is that I just bought an Eclipse RS. I went to open the hatch and the tumblers in the key hole were a screwed. Someone was trying to brake in and jack my subs probably. Now though I can't get into the trunk area. Would it work to have someone pull the latch and then have some one yank on the hatch?

The other problem I have is that when in 4th an 5th gear when cruising at around 60-80 mph the car jerks periodically but only in those two gears. I'm guessing maybe a vacuum, or my fuel pump/fuel filter are bad. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[93laser1g]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

That will help tremendously.

If you are running rich at all your plugs will get fouled. This is usually caused from a boost leak, and I noticed your car is stock otherwise so I am leaning towards that.

Is your BOV recirculated?

What kind of plugs are you using?

Yes the bov is recirculated, and im running bosch platinums. The car is stock except for a hacked aircan. I just changed them plugs a month ago, and more recently i removed the weaved section of my exhaust and replaced it with flex pipe could this cause it? or could it be my 5 speed ecu with stock auto injectors?

 

[BurrowZ]

Yes the bov is recirculated, and im running bosch platinums. The car is stock except for a hacked aircan. I just changed them plugs a month ago, and more recently i removed the weaved section of my exhaust and replaced it with flex pipe could this cause it? or could it be my 5 speed ecu with stock auto injectors?

Have you followed the guide in the link?

Recommended spark plugs for our cars are copper NGKs. More specifically, NGK BPR6ES for DSMs running stock or close to stock.

If you have smaller injectors than what your ECU think you have, you are running lean. To be honest I can't say if this is your issue, but the main difference that can cause a no start between an auto and a manual is a Park-Neutral switch.

 

[93laser1g]

Have you followed the guide in the link?

Recommended spark plugs for our cars are copper NGKs. More specifically, NGK BPR6ES for DSMs running stock or close to stock.

If you have smaller injectors than what your ECU think you have, you are running lean. To be honest I can't say if this is your issue, but the main difference that can cause a no start between an auto and a manual is a Park-Neutral switch.

where is that switch located?

 

[chadjoe]

Check the power transistor plug on top left of intake manifold. Mine comes loose all the time and does the same thing you described above.

 

[WhiteThunder]

To fill you in a little, I smoked the clutch disk shortly after hitting a dear. Before towing it to my shop, the car started up just fine. After tearing it apart we installed a new act clutch and painted the transmission to match the motor. After we put it all together the car did not want to crank at all. Checked all the grounds and made sure the spots on the transmission where the starter bolt up where sanded down to bare metal. Made sure battery was charged. We arched the starter and it kicked so we know that's working. Tested the wire coming to the solenoid and its just not getting any juice. We checked the black and red wire under the steering column for the starter and its getting 12v when cranking the key, I have also disabled the clutch safety switch. We ran a wire from the solenoid on the starter under to the steering column and the car now cranks over but does not start. We pulled a couple plugs and we are getting spark. Most my hardware is under 1k so its all new. Pulled the fuel rail and laid it on the head. Car is spraying in a pattern accordingly. English just put in a non Eprom ecu that should be good and dash lights/engine light comes one like normal. I have two days to get this thing back on the road any ideas or pointers would help

 

[stars]

If you have a scan tool available such as Snap-On scanner ( I use the wireless version now at work, very portable) or factory DRB (have this one too used by dealerships back in the day just shows dtc's and sensor data, very basic) or some kind of link-up (LAPTOP WITH dsm LINK, set your own ecu performance curves, displays sensor data; idk what your using, but anything at this point will help allot), see if the car can communicate with the scanner/link.

There you can see what all is really working and maybe not working, check to see if any data is registering any values to the ecu. Scroll thru the lists to check all data parameters, if you can look at live data display that will tell you at least on the ecu side of things that it is not your cause to your problem and/or can rule that out as your problem; pretty much confident that the ecu is functioning properly.

I'd suggest ecu swap with known good one if you do not have access to a scan tool, plus I'd swap it out anyways just to see if the car will start up at least.

If you can communicate with ecu check the DTC's listing, it can't hurt to look in DTC history if you can gain access. If you can view any data you can be able to see if TPS is working, ect, masf, and few other sensor should give you a reading even though the engine has not started up. I look at TPS voltage first, make sure it varies as in voltage as you increase the throttle plate to WOT, it should max out to 4.1 or 4.5 and back down to .50 +/-.20 volts volts closed throttle.

I'm just using that as an example so don't hold me to the actual numbers, after all if you can communicate with the scanner you will be able to check each sensor without having to get out the DVOM or test light. That will cut the time in troubleshooting and should be able to check all the basic sensors easily in no time.

If you work at a shop you should be able to get it going in a hour or less if you have the above equipment I suggested for troubleshooting, scan tool and known good ecu, DVOM and test light. If you don't have the equipment then it could take longer to troubleshoot, as you now have to check each wire for specific voltage/ground and check each sensor for specific voltage/resistance/ground individually, and check the wires for continuity; and last but not least check for opens/shorts; which can take some time to accomplish.

I hope you did use your test light and checked all the main fuses in the fuse panels, all of them. That would be silly if after all it was a blown fuse, wouldn't it =).

 

[WhiteThunder]

We just got the shop a month ago. Its still a work in progress. A scan tool is something we do not have at the moment unfortunately but I will go back and check all my main fuses again with a test light. I can maybe get a hold of an ECU to test . Ill go through everything to make sure. I only know the basics when using an ohm meter so I'll look up some facts. Could I be bypassing something the car needs to start be wiring the solenoid straight into the +12 starter wire under the steering column. Maybe a relay? Pretty confident the ECU is good as well.

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html


This may help with the basics.

 

[WhiteThunder]

All fuses checked out ok. Still want to know why the solenoid wire to the starter is not getting any current when cranking. I figure I need to start there cause I can get it to crank by cheating the system and adding a current

 

[stars]

What your doing is bypassing the starting system circuit, which is really only going tell you that the ignition cylinder and starter and starter relay circuitry are working, which is a good way to diagnosis a customers complaint of a "no start". But as you can see you got more questions than answers now that she can at least try to "turn over" but not "run".

I see that you hit a "DEER" which I didn't catch that when I read your post to begin with. Sry to hear about the car and glad your o.k. because a deer can do allot of damage as you found out. Where was the impact from this damage located at on your vehicle. You may have broken/pinched some wires upon impact and did not know it at the time. You definitely need have to have a scan tool or known good ecu to troubleshoot any further with out wasting more valuable time. I cannot stress that enough, especially if you have a complex electrical problem such as the one your having. I have seen worse though.

Since you can bypass the starting circuit you know for a fact and that there is some kind of power source there for the starter but what about power to the rest of your engines components that are needed to make the engine "run" which is normally fed voltage/ground from the ecu.

Only sources like starters, alternators etc, have their own independent power source back to the battery. In their design they have installed fusible links, rated ampere fuses, and relays to just name a few of components in a circuit to prevent a "short" of the circuit and disrupt current flow. However, some of those circuits are fed power from other circuits, this is where your repair manual should help you out. Your going to have to trace down circuits so get ready to do things the old fashioned way before there was such a thing as a "scan tool" (I use the MODIS from Snap-On also have the Advantage too and it is now all wireless)

You say you have "spark", "fuel" and can "turn over" the engine with the starter with the turn of the key in the ignition cylinder. You know that at least the basic fundamentals needed for an engine to "crank over" are there. You state that is was running before the crash but, after the transmission work and upgrade ecu parts add-on, that now it can "crank over" but won't "run".

So, to troubleshoot we start with what we know for a fact, then try to figure out the rest of the puzzle as we go along. If you have a "test light" and "jumper wire" in your tool box that will come in handy until you can get the needed tools/ecu to help figure out what it is "not". Now, all you need is the schematic of the ecu pin out to each of the sensors/fuses/relays/ wires that are powered thru the ecu. You have to trace and find out which wires have current and which ones that don't like you did for the starter. You can use a jumper wire/test light/DVOM to assist you in locating the dead circuitry or "short" circuit.

Who knows you may get lucky and find the culprit but at least while your waiting on necessary tools and ecu, you can be checking over and inspecting the wiring and checking for blown fuses ( u might have already, I think you stated), plus checking power to various points as you go along the schematic.

This is why you need a scanner of some kind, it is so important to any shop to get the best quality money can buy. It is your tool for saving you the technician a whole bunch of wasted time without doing a whole bunch of repetitive checks that can be done with the aid of a computer in a fraction of the time a human can. God Speed!

 

[Ultimate1]

Hey all, this question might have been beaten to death already but I couldn't find it after a lot of searching. Car in question is a 1g NT 2.0

Last night the car ran fine, this morning it turns over but doesn't start. First thing I do of course is check with you guys and sure enough I notice no CEL light comes on when the key is turned to the on position not even momentarily.

The capacitors on the ECU were replaced when it started hiccuping though there had already been a little damage to the board. Car ran well for about a month.

So i guess my question is if the MPI/MFI relay is toast will that affect the CEL light coming on?

If so what is the easiest way of checking it for proper operation?

Thanks in advanced I will keep you guys posted.

UPDATE::::::::::::::::::::

Turns out the new used ECU Computer did the trick. Check engine indicator light did its usual on and off routine and car started right up!.

 

[DSM1G90]

Don't worry on the CEL light right now.

have you tried to shoot some starter fluid in the INT to see if it catches momentarilly that way? If it does, then we got a fuel delivery issue.