Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[luv2rallye]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/217349-vapor-lock-hot-start.html#post1821514

 

[DSM1G90]

Vapor lock is just plain nasty...I've even had to wrap foam tubing around the fuel line so the fuel in the lines wouldn't get hot and build up excess pressure from the evaporating fuel.

 

[John_23]

Ok i have searched and searched and come up with nothing yet to solve my problem.

First off my car is a 95 Talon Turbo AWD, stock except for MBC, BOV, intake and boost gauge.

Got the car and it had a starting issue (seemed like a dead spot in the starter) had to crank the key a few times before she would roll over. Pulled out starter did a bench test, worked fine. noticed it had an aftermarket alarm installed with no key fob, also had a direct wire run to starter within the starter kill relay tied into the key switch wires when alarm was installed. So I removed the alarm put all wires back to stock, well this is where the bullshit began. Car now will not start at all no crank no fuel pump whine, lights come on radio comes on.

First thought was to install a starter kill relay again see if that was issue, nothing changed.
started testing wires and here is what i have so far.

Power at the Starter relay in the center console, no power leaving relay at the black and yellow wire.

Power coming out of ignition switch wire Red/Black.

Replaced ground wire from battery to firewall and Negative terminal as it was loose. Car still had TCU from AT-MT swap being done, removed that and jumped wire, as explained to make car think its in park.

As of today I have the starter kill relay removed. Im running black/red wire out of ignition switch directly to starter. Still not cranking.

The other day when i bench tested starter i had it wired the exact same way it was today. Had the battery out while testing starter and when i put everything back in the car cranked a few times first shot then nothing after that.

I have searched google and many other forums on tips and tricks and have come up empty handed. Any help would be greatly appreciated as im stuck and have no idea what is wrong.

On a side note when I first picked up the car I drove it home, over an hour drive with no issues. just had to keep cranking key to get car to start if you shut it off. Before i ripped alarm out i had started and moved car a few times.

Sorry for the long post, wanted to cover everything.

 

[doubleclutch]

I replaced the CTS today and it seemed to make a little bit of difference. But I am not real sure it completely fixed the problem. I did have to lower my idle as it was idling around 1500 RPM after the CTS install.

I checked the old sensor and at room temp it was 1800 (300 ohms out of spec) but at hot it seemed to be fairly close 450 ohms at 175 degrees (150 ohms out of spec).

Did some vapor lock reading and it really seems like vapor lock is a ghost of past designs. With our cars it seems like it would be hard to get vapor lock in the fuel pump. Unless you engine is getting really really hot, it would also be hard to vaporize all that fuel while the car is running. When the car is shut down, if one would just crank the car the vapor/pressure would be released by the injectors and the car would eventually start as long as it didn't flood.

Then again I could be wrong

 

[weldkroll]

I'm new to the DSM world. I was driving the others day went to pass and then it acted like I dropped a cylinder and rpms were all over the place. Now it won't start and has no spark. Please help. My first thought was crank sensor.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Maybe or the ecu, or even the coil pack. I would check those things out, and the coolant temp sensor.

 

[weldkroll]

Which of those is most likely to make the rpms jump around?

 

[92AWDHX40]

The rpms, sounds like a leak somewhere did you do a boost leak test?

 

[weldkroll]

No it started as soon as the car started to run bad.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Do a test to find some leaks that should be done from time to time.

 

[weldkroll]

How do you do that?

 

[92AWDHX40]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T963989F3c0]How to do a boost leak test - YouTube[/ame]

 

[delta448]

You are sure you don't have spark? Cause it really sounds like a boost leak. Take a quick look at the intercooler piping and couplers.

When you check for spark, you will have to remove a spark plug and ground it to the block or use an inline tester. Waste spark ignition.

 

[weldkroll]

Thanks!

 

[c2ypt1c]

I'm pretty sure a boost leak won't cause a no-start (haven't ran maf for a while)...sounds like the crank sensor to me. So it cranks but doesn't fire/start? Do you have a check-engine-light?

First thing I would do is check for spark...hold a plug to the valve cover and see if it arcs.

 

[Twinturbo120]

If you are sure it has no spark, it's the crank sensor.

 

[weldkroll]

Tried the spark plug thing. The problem came on sudden and like I said as soon as it started to run like crap the rpms started jumping around. When I crank it you can see the tach jumping around.

I would still like more people to weigh in on this issue.

 

[delta448]

So is there spark or not?

The crank sensor is the most likely cause for a no-spark, but it can also be caused by the ignition power transistor, a bad coil or a short.

How healthy are your plug wires?
Is the CEL on?

 

[weldkroll]

So crank sensor would make the rpms jump around? Yes there is no spark. Plug wires are fine.

 

[boosting_pwr]

Since you have established there is no spark in any of the four then you should check your wires, coil and plugs. If your check engine light is on that would be the first thing I check. I was having the same issue with no spark on my 99 GSX and when I checked the CEL it said right away it was my crank sensor. As soon as I changed the crank angle sensor the car started right away. As for your RPM's bouncing around, I assume this is probably at idle or when you go to neutral, definitely do a boost leak test. Check around your TB. My car also did the same thing and guess what.... I had a boost leak at the TB.

 

[DSM1G90]

Yet, the gas line is under a hot hood and behind the motor and that is where VL usually happens.

But the tech articles on the FPR solenoid is the most accurate advice possible.

 

[doubleclutch]

Update: It was a cooler day today and I had no problems starting the car after my drive to work. Usually this would be a problem. I did have an issue on the cold start of the car running rough for about 10 secs then everything was fine. It also seemed to drive better without the bogging down at ~2k RPMs i have noticed lately.

I still will probably change out the fuel pump seeing as I have a W190. Just sorta wierd the cold start issue. Any ideas?

 

[92AWDHX40]

MAybe a battery, or the coolant temp sensors cars are cars it could be anything.

 

[962ndgen]

Tried the spark plug thing. The problem came on sudden and like I said as soon as it started to run like crap the rpms started jumping around. When I crank it you can see the tach jumping around.

I would still like more people to weigh in on this issue.

so does your tach just visually "jump" around or can you hear the car literally raising and lowering RPM? my car was doing this and the MAF sensor was bad but still started up and only ran when I kept my foot on the gas a little PLUS I had a boost leak I would check for a boost leak and go from there good luck buddy!!

 

[theamsoilguy]

My stepson bough a car off ,me that I picked up as a project. It wouldn't run over 1500rpm. Compression was bad in 2 and 3 and leaking oil. I told him to swap out with my known good engine. Car wont start. It has spark and good fuel pressure at the filter. I don't have a noid light but I figured the injectors are not firing. Car will run momentarily if you spray starting fluid in. Its throwing a code 14 which is TPS, we swapped ECU first, then TPS with no luck.

I broke my wrist so its hard for me to look, maybe he forgot to connect something, like crank position.

Will a 1g cycle through all the codes or just list one. Then when that is fixed it would display next if there is another?

Would any sensor cause the ecu to not fire the injectors?

Thanks, time for more pain meds as a wait for surgery on my wrist.