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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sounds like you need to start over. First and foremost, do you have the 12V large feed wire on the starter? Is the starter ground connected (large ground wire on the starter mounting bolt)? When turning the key to "on" do you have 12v at the starter solenoid via the black/red wire (I believe that's what you're currently using as a starter feed wire)?

I'm sure it sounds remedial, but you need to just start over from the basics and go again. Once it's cranking again we can find out what else is going on.
 
Hey my Ecu is getting power check engine light comes on when key is on. Also the gauges are a little dim at first but if you wait a second they brighten right up.
I have started over a few times. Black/red is my feed wire yes and I have checked my ground on starter but I'm going to pull it off tonight and clean it all up see if it changes and maybe put a different battery in. I'm getting power from feed wire and there is constant power to starter.
 
Possible that the injectors are different impedance and the ECU doesn't know what to do. Get a noid light and check the connectors. I think you can set something up with a test light. It's just two pins.
 
Thank you so much you guys have been so helpful. No just the tach was jumping around no change in the engines rpms.
 
why was my thread merged into this thread??? we all have our own problems which is not just a no start. thanks for ####ing up my help. Probably should have read my thread first before merging it. It was not just a simple no start issue, there is more issues obviously. Please delete my post as I will no longer use this site for help.
Thanks again admins for being lazy ####s and wasting my time.
 
The vehicle im working on is a 1990 tsi bought the car not running, rebuilt the engine and will not start.

I have spark vehicle will start if spraying starter fluid in throttle but then die.
Fuel pump is good tested with the test connector by battery and return line off got plenty of fuel. only thing im not sure about is when i took the return line off and cranked engine i didnt get much fuel out and i cranked 3-4 times for 6-9 sec. each and got a very little bit of fuel out.
i tested the injector resistor box its good, tested mpi relay and fuse both good.
anyone have some ideas what to check. im getting lost on what else to check.
 
Fuel pump is good tested with the test connector by battery and return line off got plenty of fuel. only thing im not sure about is when i took the return line off and cranked engine i didnt get much fuel out and i cranked 3-4 times for 6-9 sec. each and got a very little bit of fuel out.

so what you are saying is that you are getting fuel out of the return? just not very much?
sounds to me like a fuel restriction, is the fuel filter OEM?
what you need to do is test to see exactly how much fuel pressure you are getting.
 
so what you are saying is that you are getting fuel out of the return? just not very much?
sounds to me like a fuel restriction, is the fuel filter OEM?
what you need to do is test to see exactly how much fuel pressure you are getting.

Exactly!

You have spark and the pump works. That means you have a fuel blockage somewhere between the pump and rail. I would start with a new fuel filter.
 
fuel filter is new. when i crank the engine with the return line off and in a bottle i get very little fuel out. but when i apply 12v to the check connector the pump runs and i get a steady stream from the return line and i could fill a water bottle pretty quick. i have checked injectors they all have good resistance. and i am getting 12v to them i guess i need to get a noid light to see if they are pulsing or not.
 
so you have spark fuel pressure, fuel to rain, pump works, compression, cas works coil pack ok, coolant temp sensor ok, mmm I think that's a good start If not enough to cause a no start ive been there with all the problems in the past.
 
fuel filter is new. when i crank the engine with the return line off and in a bottle i get very little fuel out. but when i apply 12v to the check connector the pump runs and i get a steady stream from the return line and i could fill a water bottle pretty quick. i have checked injectors they all have good resistance. and i am getting 12v to them i guess i need to get a noid light to see if they are pulsing or not.

So now you're saying that if you hotwire your fuel pump you get good flow, correct?

In that case, start chasing wires.
 
Hi everyone!!

First of all, I'm from sweden and suck at spelling at english. Please have it in mind when you read this.!! :p

I bougth a mitsubishi eclipse gst 95, with a Evo 3 engine installd but the problem was every electrical harness was cut. so I started out to change every harness and finish the job, but now the engine won't crank and i don't have any ignition when i turn the key.

Does anyone know what I did wrong? =(

Please if anyone know do PM me @ deay84@ho....


TY
 
On the 90's the cas plugs in over at the firewall.

I've had issues with the actual harness connection where the male/female pins *should* be connected.

I could wiggle the connector some and get a misfire, and then get it to flat die.

Closer inspection revealed the female harness pins were slightly bent out, and the pins had some corrosion on them. I bent the pins back (gently) with a 90* pick, and then cleaned the pins with some radio shack contact cleaner/enhancer. It's been all good ever since.

Remember, the cas has 2 trigger wheel tracks, and 2 pickups.

One with four evenly spaced pulses, and one with 2 irregularly spaced pulses. The ecu needs to see both triggers to be able to generate the injector pulse.

I would quadriple check the cas connector over at the firewall.


A clogged fuel filter? Its strapped on the firewall with a fuel returning line on top of the canister. Careful when loosening the bolt not to strip it. That bolt was a pain to get off. Once you've disconnected that try to start the car while some one else watches the fuel filter to make sure fuel is coming out of the canister.
 
Car is a 95 gsx manual. Iv had it for a couple weeks and it always had a slow turn over when starting. The battery looked old so I figured it needed replaced soon.

Friday the car wouldnt start after work, but my lights and stereo still worked. jumped it. got home, it started fine. the following morning. dead. picked up a new batter. still got a slow crank but started. went to drive it again later and its dead, so i jumped on here and started searching.

unplugged the wire and bypassed the clutch. going to test the starter relay behind the stereo tomorrow because its getting late tonight. also it has a walbro 255 pump and has been rewired. so besides the starter relay, im about out of ideas. fresh battery, grounds are fine. also, i sat there for about 10 minutes turning the key and it finally started. then soon as i got home and turned it off, it wouldnt start.

is it normal for the car till still start being jumped, even though its a slow turn over.
 
It sounds like you might need a starter. First I would check it for loose connections/wiring. If all feels tight, next time your car won't start try giving the starter motor a good smack (be careful not to damage anything obviously). You might need a broomstick and mallet depending on whether or not it's accessible. If the car starts, your bendix is most likely sticking and a new starter motor should get you back on the road. Hope this helps.
 
would the absense of the 2pin noise filter located behind the intake manifold cause a no start situation?
 
There are so many threads on no starting a lot of common answers can be found in this thread, im assuming that's why they merge thread.
 
Replaced the fuel pump. With no real change in anything. I had a no start with the new CTS and decided to take it out seeing as it gave me problems in the cold and hot. I tested it at room temp and at hot (176F) and in both cases it was 4x higher a reading then it should have been. I put the old one back in and the car starts fine cold but I sat at the gas station for a 1/2 hour today waiting for it to want to start.

One thing I did notice after going to my 95 ECU is that about 50% of the time when the car starts it cranks fine then one slow crank like the started got slowed down by something, then it fires up. Not sure if this is important or not.

Really getting annoyed with sitting in parking lots but i am out of ideas other then getting a CTS from the dealer and not a POS O'reillys one and hope that works.
 
Well ive never bought a oem one but the ones from the auto stores worked fine ive had a few dsms and like many other parts they do go bad, I would try that and rule that out, test the old ones, and make sure you the ecu, and coil aren't giving you issues, or a fuel pump relay.
 
I am having the same issue as the op with switching to speed density and my car not running any more. It tries to run, but it doesn't sound well. I saw I have a 0023 cam position code and a 0025 baro code. I dont know why it's throwing the cam code. it wasn't before when it was running. any help is appreciated.

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