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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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I know this is a very old tread, but I have the very same problem, and I need help. My car does not start, because I have no pulse on the injectors. I have spark in every cilinder, volts in my injectors, and fuel with good presure on my rail. I just left my car on my garage, and at the next morning it did not want to start.
I had checked the water temp sensor and the MPI Relay and fuse. I also change my ECU to try another one ( the one that I am currently using on my Eclipse). I am currently on a V3lite ECU, so I can "see" what is hapening. I have no cels. The car just does not want to start. What else can I do?? THANKS!!
 
so i finally got my clutch all put together with the resurfaced flywheel new throwout bearing, new plate and clutch. However the engine wont start...
Here's my description the crank is turning over, maybe a little slower than usual and its giving a good chug every once in a while but it wont actually start.

I know its not the battery. i checked the wires around the area of my transmission and there is a small ground coming out of the hose containing the rest of the wires behind my intake manifold along with another female clip containing 2 wires. i cannot find any male connectors for these wires any idea what they are? otherwise there is another female connector further towards the clutch cylinder that isnt connected with a purple color inside.

the starter wires look connected although the starter get rather hot.

the fuel pump and filter is original but i can hear a humming noise from the filter
i will post pictures later.
 
well from that description,
seeing as it is turning over(very slowly) and starter is getting hotter than normal it sounds like something is physically keeping the car from turning over...i cant be 100% helpful but sounds like you may want to check the work again on the trans make sure nothing is binding up or something like that.
 
are you sure that EVERY bolt on the fly wheel is torqued to proper spec? Seeing the crank is turning over its deff a mechanical problem.. You didnt touch anything as far as fuel-ignition when doing the clutch did you?
 
sorry about the pic delay, im going out to work on it today and il take pics for sure. as for the flywheel, i know the torque is supposed to be 52lbs but i don't have a torque wrench, nor am i familiar with how 52lbs feels on when tightening. so i put it on rather tight since i figured this is a piece of equipment that shouldnt fall off. my car was very low on gas too, so i put some gas in but no improvement. maybe its related to timing or a clog in the fuel line?? any idea as to what my first step is?:confused:
 
Like it was said earlier, if it is slow cranking with a known good battery, then something is binding.
 
heres a video of me turning it over with jumpers hooked up.

‪VIDEO0063‬‏ - YouTube

here are some shots of the engine bay and some suspicious unplugged connectors.
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showimage.php
 

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Behind the front drivers tire there's a access hole to turn the crank. Use that to turn the engine over manually. It seemed :hmm: to turn over fine, just not fire. U check for fuel and spark? the first pic is the tach connector and the last is (I THINK) :confused: for the A/C??
Search this site for the Factory Service Manual or here ---> http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/353297-free-dsm-manual-everybody-enjoy.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/288772-dsm-factory-service-manuals-download.html

I gotta get ready for work. Hope this helps! :pray:
 
Behind the front drivers tire there's a access hole to turn the crank. Use that to turn the engine over manually. It seemed :hmm: to turn over fine, just not fire. U check for fuel and spark? the first pic is the tach connector and the last is (I THINK) :confused: for the A/C??
Search this site for the Factory Service Manual or here ---> http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/353297-free-dsm-manual-everybody-enjoy.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/288772-dsm-factory-service-manuals-download.html

I gotta get ready for work. Hope this helps! :pray:

well the tachometer never worked... (no wonder), and the a/c was removed and is sitting in my basement so that would make sense. :hmm: but if its turning over and it has fuel.... i mean i did replace the spark plugs last time i was out there am i able to test the spark plugs by maybe using jumper cables +bat to sparkplug(inboot), - bat to ground? and see a spark? if there is spark, then what could it be? Also those links are broken but il search the site, i have a haynes manual too. i kinda counted on those connections not being the problem.
 
You said it was the original fuel filter... Check for fuel and see what you get as it never hurts to replace the fuel filter. Maybe all the moving around hit it and knock some trash in the line....

To test spark just pull the plugs and put then in the wires while sitting on the valve cover and have some 1 turn the car over and watch to see if they spark...
 
am i able to test the spark plugs by maybe using jumper cables +bat to sparkplug(inboot), - bat to ground? and see a spark? if there is spark, then what could it be

AAAAHHHH!!!! No, DO NOT DO THIS. It wont work anyways. A battery only puts out 12 volts. Your ignition coil puts out 20-50,000 volts. You need the high voltage for the spark to "jump" across mid air. To test for spark get an old working spark plug (or pull on of your new ones), push it into the spark plug wire like normal, and then touch the "sparking" end of the spark plug to a gournd, frame, or neg on the bat. I usually just touch it to the engine block or head. Do not touch the tip of the plug that comes out of the cermaic, touch the tip of it...the little curvey piece that is attached to the threads of the spark plug. Then get some else to crank the engine over and you will see spark, assuming the igintion system is working properly. Do this for each spark plug wire. Hope this helps.

Also in your last picture, the one with the plug with the purple boot inside. I am betting that is your issue. Test the spark first tho to confrim you have spark. THe other plugs in the pics are just for the solenoids in your car. Solenoids are just electonic switches with valves. They wont stop your car from starting. That one with the boot tho, it looks like a sensor plug. It looks like your crank posn sensor plug. That too would be why your tach isn't working. The tach reads the signal from your crank position sensor, and so does your ECU. If neither are getting signal your computer does not know where the engine is in its cycle, hence it cannot start.
 
well im positive that isnt my cps since i know thats on the left side and there is something plugged into it. although that would makes sense at to why it isnt starting. i bought a fuel filter but i know fuel is making it through the rail cause i both took the rail of at entrance and watched it pour out as well as the hose off the fuel regulator to see if it made it down. i think im going to test my spark and check my timing belt alignment. ive never changed my timing belt on this car but it was recently changed when i bought it.
 
Are you sure it was changed, do a compression test.

il probably rent the tools for the compression test maybe. as for the fuel filter il put my new one on today but last time i was out fuel was definitely making it past the filter. (my car is a good 10miles away)

As for the timing belt i have no reciept for but it looks like its in solid shape. i was thinking that maybe i misaligned it when i put the flywheel on. is that possible? plus wouldnt a mistimed car still start? anyways im hoping its my ignition system cause thats looking to be the easiest fix XD. il take to coils into autozone today too. my wires looked kinda bad as well.
 
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The second to last picture looks to be the starter signal wire. Connect it back to the starter and try again.

im heading out today maybe il take off the starter and take a pic so you can tell me if it should attach anywhere. i did have the starter tested and i moved the ground to a bolt actually connected to my engine block since i painted my tranny and figured its old location wouldnt have a good ground. although the starter seems to be working since its turning over.
 
If the 1st and 3rd pic are the same connector, is that wire white w/black. <-- that's would be the tach connector (external tach). What color wires are on the connector on the last pic? The starter is working in the vid.

Crank it by hand and make sure there's no unusual clunking or grinding/binding. Then line up the crank pulley timing mark to the T on the timing cover, then make sure the cam timing marks are lined up and the dowels on the cams are pointing up. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-1g-2g-quick-timing-belt-alignment-check.html

I would do all that just to be sure.

If that's all ok, I would bet its the ignition system. If there is no spark, check the plugs, wires, coils, transistor for starters.

Hopefully some1 will chime in if im forgetting somthing!

FYI :sneaky: for next time you pull the Trans.. if you just undo the lower bolts for the shock the hub and axle will slide out enough to pull the trans (worked for me anyway). Saw ## buds trying to undo that hub nut :tease: LOL.
 
It might not be the wires. Switch the known good wire around on the other three cylinders and see if you have spark.
 
took my power transistor(coil pack thingy), icm, and injectors out tested them test ok. i wanna say primary was 13ohms on coils and secondary i dont remember but it was within its means. my ohm readings on my fuel injectors were 3ohms (OK), and my icm tested ok i hooked up a AA battery 1.5v to + to prong 3 and - to 7 and followed with ohm readings from voltage meter to find that my readings were only constant with power(which is OK). so nothing is wrong with my ignition or gas. i also checked my spark plugs again and found my friends were blind or something because they all sparked fine today. (i was cranking it before:toobad:)

therefore i have enough fuel and spark as for compression idk since i didnt want to pay $40 for a compression tester, no way.

I really think my timing must be off how do i check i see no marks on my cams althought the teeth look as if that if they were clover they would mesh. is this good or bad?:confused:
 
Did you make sure that signal wire was hooked up? If it's not, minimal power will go to the starter but not enough to turn it over. it sounds just like a dead starter when you try to start.

This happened to me a couple of days ago. Called up a DSM master close to me and he said for me to check that. My starter sounded dead. I found it loose, connected it and boom it fired right up.

You can't see it with the intake manifold on. You have to touch the starter and find it by hand.

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You can see it JUST to the right of the red connector here.
 

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