Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Guthrie]

What about this one? ( 1997 Engine Computer Mitsubishi Eclipse w/o turbo MT (A) (1054p) $50
Main Auto & Truck Parts USA-TX(San-Antonio) Request_Quote 210-932-1100 Request_Insurance_Quote 651 )

 

[Ricardo18]

That would work fine also. Though it's in Texas. I usually find whatever is closest. The talon of the same year really is the same car. Sort of like a dodge avenger coupe and a chysler sebring coupe. As a matter of fact. The ecu's from these cars of the same year would work also. (only with the correct drivetrain combo of course)

Here's a fun fact. My 97 GS uses the same keys to start as my 99 avenger, so when i bought the GS, I already had a bunch of keys that work just like the original.

 

[marcman804]

I have a 97 GST 7 bolt and I can't get it to start after new engine install. Basically my engine crapped out about 6 months ago and I bought another one and I just finished installing it. This was one of the toughest things Ive ever done, next to installing the door handles that break every winter. Well, I went to turn the key and all I got was a "click". Im not sure where to even start because there are so many things it could be. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[dondmon96]

So it don't even try to turn the motor? Battery voltage, starter good/bad? Starter installed correctly?

 

[marcman804]

I pulled the battery out of my other car that is running just to be sure its not the battery, I didnt check the voltage though. The starter came off of the old engine but it was good before the engine crapped out on me. Im still suspecting that this could be the problem though because I forgot which terminal went to which spot on the starter, I thought I figured it to be the power on the bigger terminal and the negative on the smaller. Am I correct on this?

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

Read your manual. You'll see which go where.

As for it clicking. Usually this is due to not enough current or the solenoid not kicking out all the way. I would tap the started with a hammer and try again after checking voltage to it.

 

[dondmon96]

Here is some pics off of this site.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542296-post43.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542290-post41.html

If all else fails, take the starter out and see if it spins strait off the battery. Also make sure your grounds are good and grounded.

P.S. Atleast you and (mostly) your car lived through a East Coast earthquake, and a hurricane in the same week. Go buy a lottery ticket!!

 

[marcman804]

Yeah I checked that post before I posted this. That was added as a favorite when I put the engine back.
this has been a crazy week, earthquake on tuesday and hurricane on saturday.

 

[Talondvr]

Any updates??

Kinda curious if this was the Timing. I think i missed were you said u check it and verified it was off. How many teeth on which cam gear?

If the coolant temp sensor was bad and you just unplugged it, that will not verify its bad. You have to test it or swap for a known good one.

Hope its up and running now but like I said, I'm curious.

 

[tmaxx411]

Ok.. I bought a 1991 eclipse base model with a 4g37 a couple days ago. it needed a coolant temp sensor or so i was told. even after a new coolant temp sensor, it still had issues on startup. Well, i drove it to my grandmas roday, about 30 minutes, ran fine, no issues on the trip. Stopped for about 20 minutes, i went to go leave, and nothing. It just cranks and cranks. ive got new plugs and wires, fresh gas, new cap and rotor checked timing, it was 2 teeth off. put it back to where it should be, take the fuel feed off the rail, and it will shoot fuel across the engine bay, distributor timing was way off, put that back to factory, ecu looks good, can it possibly be the distributor went bad? im trying to make sure since a new one is 250 + rhanks for the help

 

[P3Kans DSM]

Sounds like the same problem as my 4G63. It's very irritating I no. So far I've got no answers yet though.

 

[tmaxx411]

Ok update. I bought a used working distributor, hooked it up, and no change. played with the firing order and got it to start. But it wont idle less than 1400 rpms if it will at all, and its misfiring like crazy. Im lost..


Edit : and now ive got a blown headgasket... Wonderful....

 

[projectalon13]

Alright guys the car is a 96 tsi awd. it recently got a different 7 bolt motor swapped in since the old one spun a rod bearing. the motor was installed by a well known shop. The motor has adjustable cam gears as well as a 1g cas. The car does not have dsmlink. The motor also has the balance shaft eliminated. The car has been running beautifully for about 3k miles since the motor swap. Then a few days ago coming home from work it started sputtering and jerking and even backfiring a little bit and then it just died. Havent been able to get it to start since. The car gets fuel to the rail and i dont believe its getting spark. Also the timing belt is still on and in great shape. It was replaced when the motor was installed. I will find out for sure tonight if it is getting spark or not. It doesnt sound like it is. the car cranks fine but doesnt sound like its attempting to start. So i was thinking maybe the 1g cas went bad. Any info would be greatly appreciated guys!

 

[miguelmcv]

Check for spark and fuel.

After checking that post results and we go from there.

If there is no spark then it could be your CAS, Like you all ready mention.

 

[projectalon13]

Thanks in advance. Im at work right now im gonna check for spark when i get home. I know its getting fuel to the rail not sure if the injectors are firing.

I checked for spark and the 2 outside cylinders dont get spark but the 2 inside cylinders do. Sorry dont remember the cylinder layout off the top of my head. I followed the plug wires and the 2 outside cylinders appear to share the same coil. so my guess is that the coil went bad. Could it be anything else? Thanks in advance guys

 

[pickaso]

Hello,
My 1990 Eagle Talon FWD Turbo vehicle has slowly received a list of new items. I posted on here almost a year ago with questions and followed all the feedback I got.
Replaced the following items:
new Battery
new Coil Pack
new Cam Position sensor
new spark plugs
new spark plug wires
new fuel filter (in line, in engine bay)
new oil filer
new air filter
new ECU
checked the in tank pump its great

All this was done and the car ran rather well for quite a while. But now all of a sudden the two middle cylinders don't seem to be working. I am getting spark for sure - took a few shocks here and there. But I can pull off the spark plug wires and the fuel injector wire connectors and the vehicle still runs and doesn't change idle speed at all. It started to do this a few weeks ago but it will randomly starts working every once in a while if I shut the car off then turn it back on. As of right now the two middle injectors aren't working at all. It has been about 24 hours and about 4-5 hours' worth of messing with wires - plugs - moving the actual injectors from locations to different location - checking for breaks in the wires - all with no fix.


Why would the two middle injectors just stop working at all...

And why does the car still run with those two locations not even connected?

 

[projectalon13]

Anyone? From what ive gathered it could be the coil or power transistor

 

[TunerJunkie]

Try swapping them out one at a time with a known good one and see what that changes (if anything).

 

[Nasty Dream]

Then a few days ago coming home from work it started sputtering and jerking and even backfiring a little bit and then it just died. Havent been able to get it to start since.

That's exactly what happens when you run out of gas.

The car gets fuel to the rail and i dont believe its getting spark.

Alternator.

I checked for spark and the 2 outside cylinders dont get spark but the 2 inside cylinders do. Sorry dont remember the cylinder layout off the top of my head. I followed the plug wires and the 2 outside cylinders appear to share the same coil. so my guess is that the coil went bad. Could it be anything else? Thanks in advance guys

Aw, I thought that would stick. I just woke up, sorry. Not sure if I can help then.

So what's it do when you try to start it, just turn over? No sign of ignition?

Well, don't wind down the battery, I was just wondering if you've already tried?

 

[miguelmcv]

For the spark issue,,
Test your Transistor, It might be bad.

 

[Andranik]

I had the same issue awhile ago it I found out that the cas wiring was a lil loose check the white wire going into the cas harness

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

You stated that "Also the timing belt is still on and in great shape."... But you never said if it had skipped time or if you had even checked. What you're stating sounds like you may have skipped a few teeth. Have you pulled your timing cover and check your timing at the crank and at the CAMs to ensure that you're not off, even a tooth? I skipped a tooth a while back and the car would build zero power. No damage to the valves, normally 3+ teeth causes damage. Just be sure and check. The timing marks must be level with the head at the CAMS and the crank must be dead on with the timing mark on the block. It takes a few rotations, 5 I believe, to get them to all line up.

 

[AlexSza]

After replacing my alternator, I later found out that the connection to the oil pressure sender wire had been worn apart, leaving the connection swinging under the car still connected.

I started the car, my oil pressure was not present on the gauge, knowing about that wire I ignored it until the next day which I could go to the local hardware store purchase some new wire and fix the problem.

This morning I went to the gym to workout around 8:30 am it was about 75 degrees outside, car started like a champ like always, but driving there my oil pressure went through the roof, it would slowly max itself on high then drop to low. two hours after working out I go out to leave and it will not start.. It cranks over just nothing,

Would shutting the car off with abnormally high oil pressure trick the ecu into throwing a code to pull timing causing a no start? I dont know what else it could be, my car is about 4 miles away in the parking lot still waiting for the girlfriend to get off work so we can go back and try to start it once it sat for a little longer and a little colder.

Any opinions are helpful, my modifications should be updated, if you need to know something else about the car that could help with this fix I will be checking this thread periodically for the next 5 hours.

-Alex

Edit: The oil pressure before this was perfect, running normal for almost 3,000 after the build.

Cranking the engine over i had a friend watch my FPR gauge, reading 40.

If this is a sign of bent valves or mismatched timing i will be severely upset.

 

[3kgt2nv]

usually really high oil pressure like that is a sign that your about to join the spun bearing club.

i would see if you can get a mechanical gauge to screw into the npt port on the housing to get an actual pressure reading when cranking the car. if its sky high get ready for a rebuild.

Cranking the engine over i had a friend watch my FPR gauge, reading 40.

fuel pressure makes no difference to the oil pressure

 

[AWD_FIEND]

If I'm understanding your description, the gauge was suddenly reading high then normal than high while you were driving. If this is accurate I suspect the gauge is shorting or losing contact, which would have nothing to do with the car's ability to start or run. You didnt mention if the gauge was stock or aftermarket but it should be pretty clear if the car suddenly lost oil pressure as it's usually accompanied by unpleasant sounds coming from the engine. You really should seperate this thread cause they oil pressure isnt related to engine no start if the engine turns over normal.

Check for spark and fuel in the combustion chamber by pulling a plug and let us know what you find.