Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Talondvr]

Do you have stock cams, just painted, right? There should be notches on the outer ring of the cam gear. If there is no marks how could the timing belt be put on accurately? The cams dowel pin thingy?

No disagreements with the above post either. In fact double check anything you have touched since the last time it ran good! You never know.

Like the paint scheme, BTW.

Finally found the one I ended up with: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...tions/344490-download-1g-service-manuals.html

 

[92nolatist]

Did you have your cam angle sensor out recently? If so, it could be 180* out of sync causing a no start...

 

[dugan33]

k im going to check the timing notches, starter wire, and cam angle sensor. i pulled out the cam angle sensor to inspect it and i noticed to can advance/retard the timing by moving 9it side to side. it didnt look damaged is there a way to test it.

 

[Eclipse37]

Is your firing order 3-2-1-4?

 

[Talondvr]

The CAS is what you set the timing with. Read the FSM and use search and and you'll find most of your answers.

If you need some direction or explanations, ask away! You'll get this car running!

You didnt touch anything as far as fuel-ignition when doing the clutch did you?

When was the last time you had the car running good? How long ago, and what have you done to the car since? If the car ran good before the clutch job I don't think this would be a timing issue.

 

[darkgant]

Whats the update?....

thread is all over the place. all you did was the clutch right? U never touced the face of the motor right?..
bottom line all cars need fuel,spark,&air ..spark:u changed the spark plugs they probably not gap right (1 solution)..air:u probably have a boost leak preventing it from starting (recheck your piping)2 solution)..fuel: ## injectors can either b clogged , injector harness can be damaged ( a noid light test)3 solution)....

If all of those check out re-examine your clutch work


Keep us updated

 

[dugan33]

i pulled the injectors out and inspected them they look fine they also read fine on an ohm meter. but i was thinking if lets say my timing is correct, is there a way to test my CAS. is there a crank and cam sensor or just a cam?

 

[Talondvr]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/394020-how-test-1g-cas.html

Your crank and cam sensor are combined for your car. The above thread should have some answers for you.

So Im assuming you have checked for fuel/pressure, spark (so cas works), the starter connections, timing, and all other plugs/connections (like the coolant temp sensor, maf.

Again, When was the last time you had the car running good? How long ago, and what have you done to the car since? Did the car ran good before the clutch job?

Please give us some answers so we can rule stuff out and try to help you. Most of the questions your asking can be looked up with a quick search, or simply looking in the FSM I gave you the link for.

 

[dugan33]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/394020-how-test-1g-cas.html

Your crank and cam sensor are combined for your car. The above thread should have some answers for you.

So Im assuming you have checked for fuel/pressure, spark (so cas works), the starter connections, timing, and all other plugs/connections (like the coolant temp sensor, maf.

Again, When was the last time you had the car running good? How long ago, and what have you done to the car since? Did the car ran good before the clutch job?

Please give us some answers so we can rule stuff out and try to help you. Most of the questions your asking can be looked up with a quick search, or simply looking in the FSM I gave you the link for.

i have checked everything except compression. only thing fishy was that after just turning my car over a few times my new spark plugs are already black! they smelt like gas, so i took em all out and turned it over and no gas came up to the rag placed on top. i left the cylinders sit open over night to maybe evaporate whatever's in there. i checked the for the dowels on the cams and they line up together but idk if that means everything else is in time. im somewhat certain i messed up my timing at my crank or something when i put my flywheel on cause i did use a screwdriver to jam the cams to stop the crank from turning so i could tighten my flywheel i probably jumped a tooth. the car ran perfectly everytime before my clutch job. after my clutch job i was extremely low on gas and had a bad battery. starting it in that condition my have had something to do with my problem. but i have tested everything including the ICM, the power transistor(where wires go), injectors, and sparkplugs. i have spark + fuel +compression is debatable, however i feel compression when i put my hands over the cylinders, but im unsure as to how much i should feel. sorry for writing a speech here but now you guys know everything pretty much. i mean the engine has only 40k on it externals around 100k or less. IF MY CAS is good il put a new timing belt on. thanks for your help.

 

[Dert]

Did you check the plug in front of your intake manifold? Located infront of MDP plug? If it is even the slightest bit loose your car will turn over but not fire.

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[bryzenga]

I would also just check the coolant temp sensor. If I remember right, the car will not start if the connection is lost. Have a look see and verify that the wire has not been cut or damaged.... Just throwing that out there since it is one of those wires that you might have unplugged or damaged for a clutch install.

 

[dugan33]

I would also just check the coolant temp sensor. If I remember right, the car will not start if the connection is lost. Have a look see and verify that the wire has not been cut or damaged.... Just throwing that out there since it is one of those wires that you might have unplugged or damaged for a clutch install.

that might be worth investigating, where is that sensor?

Did you check the plug in front of your intake manifold? Located infront of MDP plug? If it is even the slightest bit loose your car will turn over but not fire.

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would this plug be located around here? if both of these check out would you agree its about time to change my timing belt and re-align my junk?

 

[Talondvr]

Did you check the plug in front of your intake manifold? Located infront of MDP plug? If it is even the slightest bit loose your car will turn over but not fire.

The plug is on 2g cars.

The coolant temp sensor is on the thermostat housing, the top sensor on a turbo car, not sure about on a N/T tho. Also check your iac and if the biss screw was messed with that could be it too. Just give it a turn or two out. Just throwing things out there at this point.

As far as your timing belt, If your not 100% sure Its been replaced lately the go a head and change it but at least make sure thats why the cars not starting. The cams should be lined up then check the cranks timing mark on the lower timing belt cover. There's a grove on the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) like the one on the cams. This groove should be at the "T" (0 degree) mark on the lower timing belt cover. If that all lines up then your timing is good.

Hope you get this on the road soon!

 

[dugan33]

The plug is on 2g cars.

The coolant temp sensor is on the thermostat housing, the top sensor on a turbo car, not sure about on a N/T tho. Also check your iac and if the biss screw was messed with that could be it too. Just give it a turn or two out. Just throwing things out there at this point.

As far as your timing belt, If your not 100% sure Its been replaced lately the go a head and change it but at least make sure thats why the cars not starting. The cams should be lined up then check the cranks timing mark on the lower timing belt cover. There's a grove on the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) like the one on the cams. This groove should be at the "T" (0 degree) mark on the lower timing belt cover. If that all lines up then your timing is good.

Hope you get this on the road soon!

ikr my audi is nice and all but i really miss cruising around at night in this car. im pretty excited to work on it tomorrow il keep you updated i want this thing running by September 1st for school thanks for all of your help. its possible that coolant sensor may have been messed with that area looked dirty.

 

[Frickadella]

im somewhat certain i messed up my timing at my crank or something when i put my flywheel on cause i did use a screwdriver to jam the cams to stop the crank from turning so i could tighten my flywheel i probably jumped a tooth.

Damn, this whole thread I'm thinking how the hell could he have messed up the timing replacing the flywheel!! I can almost guarantee you did now. You may have stopped the camshafts from turning, but you were torquing the flywheel bolts and turning the crankshaft. Not only that but you were turning the engine counterclockwise which is kind of a no-no in itself. When doing this, you should use a breaker bar on the crankbolt.

The dowel pins may or may not be lined up with the cam gear timing marks, but they're certainly not adequate to judge timing position by. You need to use the outer timing marks that are on the face of the gears out by the teeth. If 1g is like 2g, you'll have 2 marks on each gear, 180 degrees apart. And since they're painted, you really have no idea which is the correct mark.

Here's what I'd do. Take your valve cover off, and hand turn the crankshaft so that the crank timing mark is at 0 degrees. Look at the cam lobes for all four valves on the #1 piston, they should all be pointing away from the cam followers. The intake valves will have recently closed and the exhaust valves will be coming around to open again. If not, rotate crank 360. I suspect you'll have valves partially open and your cam timing marks won't be level with the head. But once you find this position, mark the 2 innermost marks on the cam gears. And here's a tip, use a mirror to examine the alignment of the cam marks, you can't see them through the fender.

Confirm your timing is off, and head over to VFAQ.

 

[ryanh1985]

check the connector to the power transistor by the coilpack, it will go on backwards and the car wont start like that

 

[dugan33]

Damn, this whole thread I'm thinking how the hell could he have messed up the timing replacing the flywheel!! I can almost guarantee you did now. You may have stopped the camshafts from turning, but you were torquing the flywheel bolts and turning the crankshaft. Not only that but you were turning the engine counterclockwise which is kind of a no-no in itself. When doing this, you should use a breaker bar on the crankbolt.

The dowel pins may or may not be lined up with the cam gear timing marks, but they're certainly not adequate to judge timing position by. You need to use the outer timing marks that are on the face of the gears out by the teeth. If 1g is like 2g, you'll have 2 marks on each gear, 180 degrees apart. And since they're painted, you really have no idea which is the correct mark.

Here's what I'd do. Take your valve cover off, and hand turn the crankshaft so that the crank timing mark is at 0 degrees. Look at the cam lobes for all four valves on the #1 piston, they should all be pointing away from the cam followers. The intake valves will have recently closed and the exhaust valves will be coming around to open again. If not, rotate crank 360. I suspect you'll have valves partially open and your cam timing marks won't be level with the head. But once you find this position, mark the 2 innermost marks on the cam gears. And here's a tip, use a mirror to examine the alignment of the cam marks, you can't see them through the fender.

Confirm your timing is off, and head over to VFAQ.

bought my timing belt and valve cover gasket today! sure hope it works. id love to get right to it but i got a lot of work the next few days. i towed it over to my friends garage today and i expect by sunday wel get to working on it. im really glad that ive pretty much narrowed it down to timing thanks to you guys.

i also unplugged the coolant sensor and it cranked the same way it was plugged in before i dont think anythings wrong with that.

i had just messed with the power transistor the clip is on the top it cant go in upside down on mine. but was a good thought thanks

 

[dalesocks]

If you said you hava fuel and spark Just go right ahead and do a compression test and make sure your timing lines up, if the timing belt was done improper there is a chance it can slip.

 

[the_toby]

ok, so the car ran when i bought it. then i pulled the engine and transmission to replace the flywheel and timing belt. i recently put everthing back in and tried to start it, no spark . ive check all the wires, cam and crank sensors, coil pack, spark plugs, and im outta ideas. the previous owner installed a SAFCII. could it affect the spark?? do i need to reset it and tune it? or does it have nothing to do with controling spark? if anyone knows, or has any other ideas/tips it would be greatly appreciatied

 

[2GEffect6]

are you sure its no spark? or are you not getting any fuel?

 

[Talon IV]

are you sure its no spark? or are you not getting any fuel?

Took the words right out of my mouth. Go double check everything and make sure all is connected and in the right spot. Be sure to verify that you are getting no spark and its not actually a fuel issue, or vice versa.

 

[Guthrie]

1997 Eclipse RS 2.0 non turbo

OK so I love my car but its driving me crazy WTF

So my Problem is that one night my car just died while i was pulling out of Walmart of all places no weird sounds just stopped working. So i towed it home the next day i looked for the problem here's what iv found so far No power to the fuel pump. so i jumped power to it from the fuel pump relay. the fuel pump turned on so i tryed to start the car. no luck im not getting any fire. Iv replaced the Fuel pump and MFI relay 2 times now and still no luck.

Iv replaced my fuel pump , fuel pump relay and MFI relay , Camshaft and Crankshaft Position Sensors , Ignition Switch , iv checked all my fuse's and there all good

Iv had a problem with the car where i would be driving down the road and it would turn off randomly sometimes it would do it sometimes it wouldn't do it for 2 days.
But would start right back up no problem.
I was thinking it might be the ECU but im not sure.
I was told if the check engine light does not turn on for 5 sec's i have a problem with the ECU but could also be wiring.

Well im not getting any check engine light

So if any on has any ideas please let me know

 

[Ricardo18]

when you turn your car on, the CEL should illuminate for a few seconds. If you had a scangauge II you could tell if the ECU was bad quite easily. I agree with the diagnosis that your ecu is the problem since it really is the central control. Try getting a used one at a junk yard. I had a no start issue before and my ecu had shorted. I tried the crank sensor and pretty much the same thngs you tried. I got an ecu from a junk yard (search Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market) and it started right up. Good luck.

 

[Guthrie]

Thanks for the Reply
Ill Give that a Shot Im trying to find a Cheap ECU But no Luck
The on the Junk Yard has is for a automatic
No any good sites?

and then i see the link

 

[Ricardo18]

This should work fine

1997 Engine Computer Eagle Talon

PART # PO5293013AC 0529 801571

$100
Chapman Enterprises, Inc. USA-TN(Knoxville) Request_Quote 865-573-2416 / 888-646-3698