Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Ninharu]

I am having difficulty diagnosing a no start issue.

A bit of background: Had a P0301 random misfire code pop up a few times before . I just cleared it and it intermittently popped back up but only on a cold start when the weather got colder (-20 Celsius). The code only seemed to come back up randomly and I never noticed any drivability issues.

The last time it came up I was sitting at an intersection. I drove home let it sit over night and the next day it wouldn't start.

Things I have checked/done:

Replaced spark plugs
Checked resistance on COP (all between .4-.6 ohms)
replaced CAS
replaced PTU
all fuses intact
bypassed my ARC2
I have fuel (fuel pressure gauge shows 40+ psi when I crank the motor)
I pulled the ECU to look for any leaky caps - does not appear to be any

At this point I am rather stumped.

I took a quick log of me trying to turn it over.

I still am getting a RPM reading so I think the CPS is functioning.

Beyond this I am at a loss of what it could be. If you look at the log you can see there are a few moments where it 'wants' to turn over but nothing.

I am pretty sure all my injectors are functioning as each spark plug I pulled was wet.

If any one has any ideas of what I could try next, that would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wrencher]

Physically checked to see if it has good spark?
Cam timing still ok?

 

[1slow2ggst]

I am new to the Dsm world
I have a 95 gst #1 flaw when its cold it dont start and when u spray eather is fires up and runs great and continues to run great only when cold its not the fuel pump
should i replace the coolant temp sensor or somthing else thats depriving my car of fuel on cold start?

and #2 flaw when i drive and get on it i hear a belt squeel and temp gauge jumps so should i start with a new belt and then go from there?

 

[97tal]

Maybe check the fuel pressure regulator for the first flaw. Does the temp gauge only jump for an instant or are you meaning the needle is rising?

 

[1slow2ggst]

needle rises slowly then after driving alittle ways goes back down thats why i was thinking ect sensor

and ignore belt thing all my cars ive owned b4 waterpump didnt run of timing belt SO MUH BADD

 

[money42211]

If u have a bad cts will the temp gauge work.

 

[jhunfiyell]

i installed new valves, new valve seals, and installed the the rest of the car.

i got the car to start, but it just sounded like a mess, that i turned it off right away.

now the car wont even crank, it doesnt even try to even start.

what is the next approach. help

 

[Timechg]

Are you 100% sure you timed it right? Sounds like it slipped caused some damaged and won't start from low compression. Maybe a compression test is in order.

 

[StarFawkes]

Are you 100% sure you timed it right? Sounds like it slipped caused some damaged and won't start from low compression. Maybe a compression test is in order.

This.

 

[Beechnut]

Well idk if it help or not but p0301 isnt a "random misfire" it is a cyclinder 1 misfire not random as in its constant. P0302 would be cyclinder 2 ect. P0300 is a random misfire .... but it sounds like your having spark problems. The triangle.... fuel-check. air-check. The only one missing is spark to complete the triangle

 

[tektic]

Is your fuel pressure solenoid still conected?

 

[Ninharu]

Problem solved, boiled down to a combination of very cold weather causing my plugs to foul. I run BR7ES - probably not the best choice for a -20 winter start. Going to switch to a step warmer for the winter season from now on.

After replacing my CAS and PTU my P0301 code has seemingly disappeared.

Only strange thing, after getting my car running I had to scale back my global deadtime by 90 to get my combinedFT in line. Runs fine now, thanks for the suggestions.

 

[jhunfiyell]

okay, since my car wont start, what does that mean? because if its an interference engine, wouldnt it keep running anyway ? its just funny to me that my car wont crank.

im just looking for hope right now. haha
anyways, hopefully my new valves didnt get damaged, because they were no fun.

 

[Timechg]

Try cranking it over by hand, if it doesn't crank then your valves and pistons have met each other...Interference engine means if your timing belt breaks/slips, your valves can (and most likely will) hit your pistons bending them. Trying to crank it over with the starter it just going to make it worse.

 

[Dsmamature92]

Hey guys im having the same type of problem with my gst. Its turning over but not starting. I changed the cps,spark plugs new,wires new,coil pack new, something got caught in my timming belt a while back and it tore up my belt and made me jump time. I got the head fixed up new gaskets the whole nine yards. Now this problem. Any ideas? Cpu? Fuel pump? How would inspect them?

I dont want to seem as if you dont know what you are doing but.. Did u switch the sensor 180 degrees?

Dont mean to sound alil....dumb? But what do you mean?

 

[acorn3583]

I would definitely check the coolant temp sensor and the wiring around the t-stat housing. We had ours hooked up wrong and the gauge would show hot as soon as we started it and cool down as it ran. Switched some wires around and replaces the cts and its running much better and the gauge doesn't seem so confused anymore

 

[acorn3583]

^Check your wiring! Trace all the hots and grounds you can. Our Spyder would die randomly and spit and sputter when we were driving. Checked the battery connections, alternator, fuses and relays, everything we could think of until one day the battery lit up the whole back seat (relocated battery) so we traced the wires and it was as simple as a bare spot in our hot wire. Good luck!

 

[DSM1G90]

Have we check for a stuck open T-stat? Replace the temp sensor.

 

[DerekBogie]

I have been following this forum for a few years now under the radar and learning from other posts. This will be the first time that I actually couldn't pull the information from an old post and use it to fix my problem. I have read a lot of posts on this issue and each one seems to be a wide area of different problems. I followed the no start troubleshooting guide with no prevail, and all the information and testing i have done is from what i recently read and learned from here.

The problem: Car will not start
i own a 1995 eclipse gst with minor engine mods including intake piping, and intercooler... The basics. The car is NOT a daily driver and i usually let it run once a week in the garage and do a few laps in my drive. I was sent an adjustable fuel pressure regulator for free from fastwayracer to try out. The part was junk and began to flood my engine to the point of bogging out so I replaced it back with my oem fpr. I left for 3 weeks and came back to try and start it with no luck. The car cranks and cranks and doesnt even give a sputter of attempting to start. I did get a few sputters while attempting to start it for the first time of the day then nothing the rest of the day. Here are the tests i have concluded.

good spark on all 4 cylinder spark plugs
fuel pump kicks on and was primed with the jumper wire
fuel pump delivers enough fuel (fills a cup with fuel easily)
ECT (CTS for some) sensor reads room temperature on my datalogger
ECT sensor is in guideline for right resistance and voltage to the plug
i can smell a strong odor of fuel out of the exhaust when attempting to start car
spark plugs are wet with fuel after attempting to start (plugs are clean)
oem fpr does not leak fuel out of the vacuum line (oem fpr is less than a yr old)
ECU has no detections of leakage
all timing marks are in line
compression on all cylinders
all fuses under dash and under hood are good
holding the gas pedal to the floor or pumping makes no difference
I just put 28 dollars in the gas tank of new gas as it was almost empty

I ran a test with my datalogger and it came back to a map sensor trouble code
i believe i had this code before the problems occurred. Like i said i do not drive the car and have never had an issue with the car since i owned it until i changed the fpr with an adjustable. (yes i know stock turbo stock injectors no need to go adjustable but it was a free part.... now i know why) The temperature that i am attempting to start the car in is around 54 degrees Fahrenheit. Would a faulty map sensor stop the vehicle completely from starting? i did unplug the map sensor briefly and it did not change the starting behavior.

How about a free adjustable red fuel pressure regulator to the first person to solve my dilemma

 

[vr4joe]

If you are positive you are getting spark and fuel. I would check your CAS or ECU.

Do you have an aftermarket alarm system?

 

[DerekBogie]

Yes i do have an aftermarket one.. it had one already that was missing parts so 2 months ago i put this new one in and it has been working fine including now. i heard others say that could be an issue so how can i disco it to try and see if it helps? the alarm has a kill switch but that wont even let the motor turn over. my motor turns over fine.

 

[vr4joe]

That's true.

Check your Crank Angle Sensor

 

[DerekBogie]

any way to test it? im not familiar with this sensor.

 

[1slow2ggst]

im gonna get that cts this weekend i am just getting it legal i had to go through a lot of crap cause i washed the title in the washer b4 i got the car in my name so ive been jumping and diving through hoops and the prevous owner didnt get it in his name cause he was flipping it for a honda so got rid of my integra and got this and got a surety bond today and should b on the road by monday but hey traded my crappy rusted out 300000 miles everything original for a dsm so what a upgrade

 

[insaneturtle]

so my car doesnt start, it does this about every month and a half it will crank but not start. but will be perfect for a month and then it will happen again. Most of the time all i need to do is crank it a couple of times but as it gets worse it doesn't start at all. its a new coil new wires and new plugs. almost everything on the car is new. i dont know what could make my car not wanna start randomly. any one else have this problem with the 420a?