Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Hunter89]

When I bought the car it had no tranny, so pretty much everything on the passenger side was disconnected. I put in the tranny, transfer case, all the hardware, & connected all the plugs & hoses. I took off the hose after the fuel filter and cranked it sprayed into a plastic bottle I had so I'm pretty sure it has fuel pressure. I read up on the cam sensor & I heard that if the engine is getting fuel & spark it can't be a bad ecu or cam sensor. Also I've heard that the coolant temp sensor could cause these problems. Where is it located & how can I test it. I don't want to spend money on parts I don't know if I'd need. mechanically its all there everything functional, so i'm pretty sure it's something small like a sensor or something. When I go to start it it cranks sounds like it's gonna start then it falls on its face like something is telling it not too. Also before I start it the boost gauge is @ 7 psi. And sometimes when the key is in the ignition, in the on position I can hear a clicking sound coming from the brake/clutch master cylinder area. Man this is frustrating :O

 

[turbocrzy]

Did you check the Mass air meter, i left mine unplugged one day and it wouldnt start but just for a second then it would die, or if you hear clicking under dash it may be a relay.

 

[zcox122]

Does it turn over for a few seconds then everything dies? Or does it just continue to turn over? Or none of the above?

 

[SVT2DSM]

Sounds like the MAF isn't connected. And doesn't the ISC make a clicking noise when the key is turned over? That might be what you hear.

 

[gst96spyderman]

Seems like you have a hot wire somewhere that is causing the power drain. Follow the power cord path and make sure the wiring is correctly covered. If you are unable to start from battery and get a click when turning over, the battery sounds to me, completely drained. I guess this means that there is no way to check if starter is working at the present time.

Do you have an aftermarket stereo/amp?

I doubt the relay is the culprit here. that shouldn't cause the battery to be dead, although, it could be preventing you from your starting... check both

 

[Hunter89]

It continues to turn over then smells like fuel like it's getting flooded. But I know it has spark. So idk why it doesn't fire up. Maf is connected. What is the isc?

 

[turbocrzy]

The isc is idle stepper control , it mainly deals with the idle, its possible the Maf is bad, i have seen them go out without warning or reason

 

[DSM1G90]

engine is getting fuel & spark it can't be a bad ecu or cam sensor

Guess again. Even with a bad ECU, you still get fuel and spark, but a very weak spark that can't ignite the fuel.

Got a CEL light on after it fires up? When you turn the key on, does the Boost needle go to "zero" until the motor starts up? If it doesn't .... definitely an ECU issue.

Pull plugs and see if they're coal black loaded with soot. If so, I bet you toasted your ECU with it blowing a grounding trace on its momboard with you saying of working with sensors and such..which can blow an ECU if you had the key on.

 

[zcox122]

Both ecu and cam sensor can cause a no start with fuel and spark. DSM1g90 is right for bad ecu diagnosing but if that checks out test the cam sensor or the iac (under the throttle body).

 

[96-GSX]

could be temp sensor and if you put NGK plugs in that could be the problem also... I had the same prob in my 2g and I replaced my temp sensor and put E3 diamond fire plugs in instead of NGK's and it runs great again. I am not saying this is the problem for sure but I would check into it...

I would hook up a diagnostics tool and see what it tells you. and you can clean the maf sensor with maf sensor cleaner but dont try it with any other cleaner cause it will foul it up. the maf sensor cleaner is around ten bucks but it can save you alot more than that if it helps

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Stock gauge is guestimated off airflow through maf sensor.

 

[Hunter89]

Well when it did fire up the cel was on, & when the ignition is in the on position the boost gauge fluctuates between 7 & 14 psi. It does seem like there is spark but not enough to keep it running. I got brand new ngk copper plugs which is what is mostly recommended for our cars right? Oh yea before I changed my wires only 2 or 3 spark plugs would fire but then I changed the wires to some new ngks & they all started sparking. So now I'm thinkin it's a possible ecu issue. Is there any way to visually inspect it or test it? I don't have another ecu. I'm fairly new to dsms so I haven't established many local relationships with fellow dsmers

 

[brian102]

my 2g gsx will not start when its cold. If its been ran a while it will fire right up. If it sits over night it will start right up with a quick shot of ether. But i have to purge the fuel pump like 8 times then it will fire. I replaced the fuel pump yesterday no change. Im thinking the regulator today? or could it be something to do with the solenoid that goes between vacuum and the fpr? I believe thats there to give it extra fuel when warm if i remember right? The fuel filter was changed less than a year ago as well. Questions please ask! thanks for reading

 

[bigbird94]

Check the coolant temp sensor and wires. It is on the thermostat housing.

 

[brian102]

subscribed.. when you hook up a scanner does it show that you have coolant temp? or is there two different coolant temp sensors

 

[Hunter89]

How can I test the cts or the cam sensor? Can I take them off then go get them tested @ AutoZone? When I was crankin the car I had a buddy test the cam sensor power & ground cable both had strong current so maybe the cam sensor is bad? But I'm Thinkin bad ecu

 

[DSM1G90]

Well when it did fire up the cel was on, & when the ignition is in the on position the boost gauge fluctuates between 7 & 14 psi.

= ECU.

Not supposed to do that if ECU was in good condition.

Boost gauge is at "zero" with key on before start-that's the simple test of a normal ECU.

Know anything on how to pull codes from your ECU? If so, I bet every code will show up bad...that's what the CEL does..is to let the operator know that the ECU has a problem and has stored a code for to be read and a lead to the problem(s).

(Little story and help here: I had the same problem you're facing. I pulled codes and every one showed up bad. Cracked open the ECU and I had burnt ground traces. Shipped the thing off to motoguys and got a replacement. Cured my issues real quick and have been running fantastic since...)

For simple DIY, "garage mechanic" diagnostics, go to this link ECU Code Checking

Works every time. - Good luck - DSM

 

[zcox122]

Its the ecu then.

 

[jb2zero0six5]

ECU's can do all sorts of funny things when they go. I have one that will run on two cylinders, and another that runs fine, but keeps the MPI relay active with the key off. I'm willing to be that after sitting for a while and then finally seeing power one of or many of the capacitors popped.

1. Pop that ECU open, it's easy to get at, given the work you've completed already. Again, the boost needle to should jump to 0 with the key in the ON position.

2. Coolant Temperature Senor, make sure it's hooked up. Should have a T-shaped spade arrangement, located on lower half of the thermostat housing. The ECU defaults to -77* degrees, which of course would dump fuel.

 

[luv2rallye]

Yes the 2 wire CTS is the one the ECU uses. The 1 wire one is for the gauge. And yes the stock boost gauge is just an estimate calculated by the ECU (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/211594-stock-boost-gauge.html#post1762862).

 

[DSM1G90]

which of course would dump fuel

... but not enough to blacken and soot up spark plugs.

It's in reverse:

When the sensor goes out, the backup program in the ECU runs the system as if it is in a fully warmed up state.

Thus not delivering fuel in a rich state, but delivers fuel as in a lean state-why a hard start and no idle-why one has to hold the pedal barely down to an idle speed until coolant temp begins to rise then the system can take over.

 

[DSM1G90]

Temp sensor is gone.

When it's gone, the ECU defaults to a operational coolant temp of 77* .. is why to no start when cold. If you barely hold the pedal down when you hit the key and hold the RPMS at 1500 for a couple of minutes, the system should take over, when the coolant begins to warm up, to allow idle.

Temp sensor (and not the temp sending unit) works with the FIAC unit to give you idle.

Temp sensor will not give a CEL when they go out.

Change that temp sensor out and you should be good to go no matter how cold it is. I'm in the single digit weather right now and my vehicle fires right up with no problems after sitting out overnight.

Good luck - DSM

 

[Hunter89]

K so one of my buddies has a galant vr4, he had a couple of ecu's laying around so I took one. Plugged it up, boost gauge went to 0 then started up! I got it running, however it runs like shit. I took off the timing cover cranked the gears by hand & tried to line up the timing lines. To my dismay timing is off by 2 teeth. Front cam gear is one tooth ahead, rear cam gear is one tooth back. Now I gotta take apart the front of the engine well @ least I got this difficult car running. So I gotta buy this ecu from my buddy I asked him how much he said look around & see what theyre goin for & give me a fair price. So in your guys opinion what is a fair price for a stock ecu from a 91 gsx?

 

[DSM1G90]

I'd give him 50 bucks since it's not the right one, which you could have issues down the road and you don't know the condition of it, or how long it will last.

If he wants more, for you know he knows that you need one desparately and will soak you for money since it does work in your vehicle and it suddenly has some value, .. walk away.

 

[brownie956]

Yea I replaced the coolant temp sensor. it does stall when I boost real hard after it blows off.

Is your BoV recirced? A boost leak would exacerbate this issue too.