Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[90laserdsm]

yes thats correct. after 6 turns the dowels on the cams will be facing up. then just check to see if your other timing marks line up.

 

[Lou98GSX]

the important marks are the crank and the cams .if the balance shaft is off you will have a vibration but the car will start . if the marks are off i would do the whole thing over and make sure everything is lined up properly .

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Correct, the MAF not being plugged in makes the car instantly drop RPMs til it dies. It will start up and then just fall on it's face.

That's incorrect. My car will sit and run with a mass airflow plugged in and not die out. I've had it come unplugged while driving before and still be able to drive the car.

 

[MEz]

Just curious.

When you seafoam'ed the car. You put some int he gas, the oil, and through the intake.

Did you drive the car around until it stopped smoking?

It was only applied to threw the oil and Intake 1/3 each (We didn't get to the gas yet). We did drive it for a while but oddly no white smoke came out in mass only in very small quantities.

 

[1glaserfwd]

The thin layer of oil on the cylinder walls may have been washed away by the seafoam. If it ran fine before the seafoam, I would bet on that.

Pull the plugs, disconnect the injectors, put a couple cap fulls of engine oil into each of the cylinders, and crank it over for 10-15 seconds.

EXACTLY!!! The fuel and sea foam washed the cylinder walls down and result your compression reading would be crazy low. Pull the plugs and put a couple teaspoons of oil in each cylinder. With mpi relay out crank it over a couple of times. If you have new plugs put them in and it should fire right up! I have seen this on several vehicles at shop I work at in SLC UT!

 

[DirtyJerzeyDsm1]

Sometimes if you use to much seaform you have a chance in bending the valves. I would check timing the check compressing.

 

[schalk35]

Sometimes if you use to much seaform you have a chance in bending the valves. I would check timing the check compressing.

Do you care to explain to all of us how this will bend a valve? Just because liquid is going through the cylinders/cc ? If that where the case then we would all have bend valves.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Do you care to explain to all of us how this will bend a valve? Just because liquid is going through the cylinders/cc ? If that where the case then we would all have bend valves.

if the OP jumped timing or possible hydro locking then it might have bent the valve! im assuming this is why he sait that

 

[1Gina2G]

Do you care to explain to all of us how this will bend a valve? Just because liquid is going through the cylinders/cc ? If that where the case then we would all have bend valves.

I agree this needs to be explained more. don't just come to a thread and suggest a possible extreme worst case scenario in a mere sentence and not explain why. As far as I know, as long as mechanical timing is correct, then no valves should be bent from hydrolock. I'm still.learning though. The OP never mentioned jumping time, he said he rechecked timin and it was correct.

I'd like to know if it could happen, wouldn't suprise me seeing as how your connecting rods.can get bent from hydrolock.

 

[awdtalon4451]

I agree this needs to be explained more. don't just come to a thread and suggest a possible extreme worst case scenario in a mere sentence and not explain why. As far as I know, as long as mechanical timing is correct, then no valves should be bent from hydrolock. I'm still.learning though. The OP never mentioned jumping time, he said he rechecked timin and it was correct.

I'd like to know if it could happen, wouldn't suprise me seeing as how your connecting rods.can get bent from hydrolock.

How do you figure? If he didnt pinch the vacuum line to control the suction and let it just suck it down on its own, it would bet it has bent valves. If too much gets in the combustion chamber its bad news for sure. Liquid can only be compressed so much before something gives. Case in point your valves.

 

[jrohner]

Like I said it does have fuel pressure, whenever I remove the spark plugs I smell the mixture of Fuel and Seafoam that I poured from the BOV intake nipple.

Poured it in? You mean sucked in I hope? Unless you restricted flow considerably, the BOV line would suck it in WAY too fast. Even with the small lines, I pinch them with a vice-grips so I can adjust the flow.

Please describe, in detail, your process.


Also, if you come to realize your engine is junk, please don't post 'seafoam wrecked my engine' like I've seen some people do after they do it wrong.

 

[DirtyJerzeyDsm1]

My bad for not being able to explain more i'm at work. Yes we all have fluid going throw our cylinders but seafoam is no where near as flammable as gas. So if he over loaded the cylinders it has the chance in hydrolocking or bending valves. Compression test would tell a lot...

 

[jmartinez1228]

My bad for not being able to explain more i'm at work. Yes we all have fluid going throw our cylinders but seafoam is no where near as flammable as gas. So if he over loaded the cylinders it has the chance in hydrolocking or bending valves. Compression test would tell a lot...

This will add to your explanation.
[ame=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrolock]Hydrolock - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]

 

[jrohner]

My bad for not being able to explain more i'm at work. Yes we all have fluid going throw our cylinders but seafoam is no where near as flammable as gas. So if he over loaded the cylinders it has the chance in hydrolocking or bending valves. Compression test would tell a lot...

How flammable it is has nothing to do with it. The liquid itself of gas is not what's so flammable, it's the vapors. Liquid can't really be compressed when the piston comes up, it's supposed to be compressing air. You're also washing down the cylinder walls.

 

[DirtyJerzeyDsm1]

I dont really think washing down the cylinder walls is going to cause a no start problem. If your cylinder walls get washed out you should still have some compression. In that video it seems like he has 0 compression

 

[kyle0421]

It was the coolant temp sensor and my fuel pressure was up to high now I have to turn it up to start then turn it back down to drive without sounding like it hits fuel cut sorry for the month later responce and

 

[kchaazz]

Did you replace the coolant temp sensor? That is almost certainly what was causing the bulk of your hard starting issue. If youve replaced the sensor with a new or known working sensor and you are having to play with your fuel pressure to get the engine to start, youve obviously got another issue to attend to. What are your "low" settings on your SAFC set to? What are you using to log with? Does the car sometimes stall when youre coming to a stop light or otherwise exibit any trouble idling? Id check the fuel filter next, as a fuel filter in need of replacement will cause issues like the one youre having.

 

[1gmod]

I have a 93 base model body with mods that I have put into it that has turned it into a gst. The parts are a 94 eagle talon tsi auto wire harness, 91 eagle talon tsi auto computer and a 6 bolt engine with sensors switched out to work for the wire harness. I put all this into my car and put an AWD MT on the engine. I made the attempt to start it but all it does is just crank over when I place a jumper wire in the connector for the inhibitor switch. It has been frustrating me for the longest Can someone help me please get my car running?

 

[GODofWARREN]

ok so i swapped out the battery and i got it to start cranking. Good Sign! but it still want turn over. I can hear some kind of grinding and its trying to turn over. Im starting to worry with it being so damn cold out this way that there wasnt enough anitifreeze in the block and its a little frozen...? now i havnt gotten to put the camshaft position sensor ( its a 1997 head) , could i be psyching myself out here or should i just leave it till summer and let it thaw...? need help guys any ideas or ways to check for certanties if its frozen or what....?

 

[MEz]

She is up and running! I ended up buying brand new NGK's, cranked it for a long long long time, then it fired up. Thank you guys for the help, Now its time to re-tune

 

[clipto]

Everytime you use seafoam plan on changing the oil and sparkplugs. That's how I always done it worked for me. Also you really don't need to do chemicals in your car. If its really running that crappy and I am sure its not, but if it is then you need tear it down and freshen it up the right way.

Everytime you use seafoam plan on changing the oil and sparkplugs. That's how I always done it worked for me. Also you really don't need to do chemicals in your car. If its really running that crappy and I am sure its not, but if it is then you need tear it down and freshen it up the right way. There should never really never a need for motor to run other cemicals in cars. Don't get me wrong people have gotten good results over the years but not my choice of fix it up juice if you know what I mean.

 

[ElectroPanda]

Are you getting fuel (does ecu prime engine) and are you getting spark?

 

[grothe3297venge]

Did check vac lines, fuel pressure, fuel injectors, and etc?

 

[1gmod]

I used starting fluid to see if the car could start and it stayed running for 15 seconds but then it died I checked the wires to the efi relay and they were getting power I even checked the relay as well and the relay was good I forgot i had a N/T pump i sochanged the fuel pump to a turbo pump which works when I turn the car to the on position but the car still won't start I'm still confused

 

[big_d]

First off, your 1G does not "prime" the fuel system when you turn the ignition to the "on" position. The fuel pump will not turn on until it sees confirmation from the CAS that the engine is spinning(during a crank event). This assumes that no one has performed some tasteful rewring.

Does the check engine light come on for 5 seconds (then shut off) and the factory boost gauge go to "0" when you turn the key to the "on" position?
If so,
Unbolt the CAS from the head, and give it a turn (with the key on). You should hear the pump come on, and the fuel injectors firing (faint snapping sound).

If the CEL never came on in the first place, you have either a wiring mess or the ECU is in question.