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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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You don't have pressure. Sure it sprays a good amount of.fuel out but 20 psi looks like 40 psi, but 20 won't start the car. You installed the fuel pump incorrectly I would put money on.
 
what am i checking for? physical damage to the wires? the harness itself appears to be intact. i didn't cut it open to see each wire.

i already tested the resistors themselves, and they are in spec.

i am at work so i can only check in here periodically through the day
 
Yea if they are covered in any kind of wrap or tape cut it off to see the condition of the wires. It very well could be that in some odd way your injectors all fried at the same time. Would suck though, and don't see all of them going at once. Do you know anyone around with a few spare injectors that could help you out?
 
You don't have pressure. Sure it sprays a good amount of.fuel out but 20 psi looks like 40 psi, but 20 won't start the car. You installed the fuel pump incorrectly I would put money on.

All the fuel pressure in the world is not gonna make the fuel injectors work if they are not activating. No clicking when spinning CAS as he stated. As stated in an above post, check your resistor pack. Probably loose connection.

Didn't see the injectors aren't firing, get a noid light and see if its pulsing.

Sorry didn't read this post..
 
panda,
do you have a link to a diagram of the injector control circuit.? does the 12v supply come through the ecu, through the resistors, then to the injectors, then back to the ecu and to ground?
im still curious about the voltage reading im getting at the injector connector. if i understand the system right, the injectors get 12v all the time. then the ecu grounds the circuit to fire the injector. when i pull the connector off of injector (key on) i measure 12v at both contacts. this seems wrong.

edit: didn't see the diagram 92AWDTalonTSI attached last time i read this post
 
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check your wires and your distributor cap, my 96 GS-turbo isn;t starting at the moment, just got it today, my plugs are blackened and reak like gas, but, start at teh front and work your way back. i'm hoping the plugs are my only problem
 
In the morning it takes 4 - 5 tries to get the car to fire. Once it fires it will bog if you hit the throttle until the car warms up. After it is warm it runs fine and will start first turn of the key.

I have a fuel pressure regulator that reads a steady pressure so I'm ruling out the fuel pump. When it finally starts it idles at 1700 so I rule out the choke. I replaced the plugs and wires just in case with no effect.

Ideas?

One weird thing. I thought it was plug wire #4 so when I bought the new wires I just replaced that one wire. It fired right away. Thought I had fixed it so put all the wires in. Tried again and I was right back to the problem again. )-:
 
I think your losing fuel pressure in the rail when it sits for an extended period and you have a bad ISC. Does the car idle high and then drop down to normal after it's completely warmed up?
 
How would a coolant temperature sensor cause the engine to bog when I hit the gas? I'm not a mechanic....just wondering.

It feels like a fuel problem but if I'm losing fuel pressure in the rail wouldn't it show as a pressure drop on my aftermarket fuel pressure regulator gauge? Fuel pressure is constant during start up. Idle does drop down to normal after it is warm.

I've had the Idle Speed Control wire unplugged for more than a year because it surges until the car is warm. Didn't seem to miss it much.

The injectors are bigger than stock.

I haven't hooked a laptop up to the car for a few years since I set it up. What would I be looking for in the log that could help diagnose the problem?
 
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RESOLVED !
it turns out, the IAC connector and the injector resistor connectors match up close enough to plug together. But it won't run that way !
sadly, i had to cut open most of the engine bay harness to find I connected it wrong.

cheap
 
Coolant temp sensor can be telling the ecu you are already warm when at a cold start. Though I think a symptom of coolant temp sensor being bad is more common to tell the ecu that the car is cold at all times even after warming up causing a rich condition. At least in my experience.
 
It took 7 turns of the key to fire this morning and keep running. When I hit the gas causing it to bog the fuel pressure gauge goes up from 27psi to over 30psi.

Meaning its electrical not fuel related?

Once the engine's warmed up it runs and starts great.
 
I have dsmlink so can see the temps. When my temp sensor was bad it told the car that it was stuck at 95* so its not always telling the ecu that it is extremely cold/hot. Sometimes it is in the middle I guess. Anyway, the temp sensor will definitely make the car hard to start. I had that problem for a long time. Do your fans always run?
 
Test your isc. Do you have a safc, logger, moates or anyother tuning system. You can see if it thinks you are pressing the gas peddle or not. My car was revving and I didn't know why until I looked at a log of my car and saw that the tp was at 15%. Easy fix but I wouldn't have known if I didn't have a logging system in place.
 
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Just an update on the issue I tried to turn motor over by hand and it eas extremely difficult so I removed the timing cover and remembered that it was easy to turn before installing trans and putting into the car. I found out later that I had left the wrong Starter plate on the new motor after the motor and trans were bolted into the car when i tried to install the starter. I tried to grind it in the car to make it work but once I removed the starter the motor turned easily. I ended up switching starter plates and now the car starts fine. I suppose the starter being so close and binding up was setting off the knock sensor and killing spark. Now i just need to find out how to get my dsmlink hooked up to my comp with a usb adapter since my other comp that came with the car crashed. Having trouble getting it to connect but thats another issue
 
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