Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Kurptk]

Resolved it...

So my brother noticed whenever it would not start there would be no CEL with the key on..... Well that tells you something

So I opened up the ECU and it was fried. What surprised me though is it even ran at all and how it was intermittent ....

So now I am in the market for a 1G ecu which seems to be a common failure with these cars.



Before he bought this car I never understood that picture with a DSM sitting on the dumpster Now I totally get it, these cars deserve the reputation they have been given

 

[KuckFatrina]

Before he bought this car I never understood that picture with a DSM sitting on the dumpster Now I totally get it, these cars deserve the reputation they have been given

These cars are also 20+ years old.

 

[TSI_93]

Wow really man? These cars are the exact same engine and drivetrain as your evo III.

Check ebay, the classifieds, and Miller Import/S&M Autoparts for an ecu, you could also make a patch harness and use a 95 Eprom, 98-99 Black case ecu, or Evo 8/9 ecu.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Before he bought this car I never understood that picture with a DSM sitting on the dumpster Now I totally get it, these cars deserve the reputation they have been given

their reputation is a rep of some sucky a$$ owners that don't know how to properly take care of a performance car.

I dd my dsm and just took it on an over 700 mile trip and it did just great. reliability depends on the owners capabilities to maintain it.

 

[crxdsmdan]

I have a few threads going regarding different issues im having with my car, but here is a strange question i couldn't find anything related to it anywhere...

Info:
-Redone timing and everything, and IT IS PERFECT. car was misfiring when you gave it gas and had no power under load.
-Left it for the next day to tinker with and it wouldn't start. been a few days now.


Things ive done so far:
-new spark plugs, gapped properly at .30
-new spark plug wires
-tested injectors, 390cc
-new fuel filter
-new power steering belt
-replaced intercooler (had major leak, helped a little)
-replaced TPS (used, helped a little more, not perfect tho)
-replaced CTS (used, made no difference in starting)
-removed the fuel line that goes to the rail (in front of the TPS), even hours after the car hasn't been running still had plenty of fuel in the line and rail so im assuming no fuel delivery or fuel pressure issues.
-tested alternator, seems fine. (removed the negative cables from the battery while the car was running, didn't shut off)
-full brand new timing belt kit
-Checked to see if the CAS was 180* out, fixed it. still no-start
-Checked ECU, looks fine but does take along time to read codes from
-All fuses and relays seem fine
-Knock sensor is fine

Question: Car is still a no-start. Its getting fuel, its getting spark, cranks but doesn't turn on, sometimes it feels/sounds like its about to start but doesn't. Replaced all possible sensors, only thing i haven't replaced was the ECU but before i go and send my money on an expensive, hard to find part, id like to know what else it can be.

Resolved: Turns out the ECU was bad, even after re-soldering the caps the board still has issues.

Thanks in advanced!

 

[hotrodssnova]

Does the factory boost gauge go to zero when you turn on the key?......as in key on, look at factory boost gauge in dash cluster, needle should move up to the 0. If it doesn't, ecu is bad.
What is a CTS?
Did you adjust your tps correctly?
Plugs should be around 26-28......not 30.

 

[luigi5834]

Did you have the starter itself tested? The solenoid good have gone bad. Def check your grounds and your main power wire to the starter for good connection. Make sure the main fuses aren't blown, if I remember right the ignition fuse if blown would not allow the starter to function. That's where I would start.

I took the starter out and had it tested and it was good. Wires are good. Looked at the fuses as well and they're all good as well.

I also bought a new ecu thinking it shorted out. The day it happened, the negative terminal was cracked and figured it shorted out. Got the ecu tested and it was bad. Installed the new ecu today and still no crank

Had the starter, fuel pump, and asd relays all looked at and they're all good.

If it's not turning over (won't crank), try unplugging the clutch switch under the dash. Sometimes they go bad and won't let you start by cranking it.

I'm take a look at that today.

Start from the starter out. Try manually jumping the starter. If that works, go out to relays, if good, go to ignition switch. Idk if it'll work here, but you can try banging on the starter with a wrench or something.

Before I took starter out to get it tested, tried banging the starter with a wrench, still didn't work. Car won't start with a jump, only with a push start.

 

[blkgst97]

Are your plug wires in the correct firing order? Have you done a compression test?

 

[TurboLaserRS]

At least visually check the ECU. Take it somewhere with good lighting, like flourescents or something. That's the only way I was able to notice that my capacitors had leaked. My factory boost guesser did the same thing, turn the key forward and it would go to like 7psi before I even started the car, and when it started and ran rough the tachometer would go backwards-

 

[crxdsmdan]

Yes, the ECU is good, boost gauge goes to 0 when the the key is turned to ON. No blown caps, boards good too.
Compression is good.
Plugs are in the right order.

CTS is the coolant temperature sensor. So basically the ECU asks the sensor "how cold is it today?" and it reply's to the ECU its "x" cold. Then the ECU decides if its to hot or too cold to start the car.

I tried with the plugs gaped to 27-35 and same on any, left them at 28 or 30, don't recall now.

The TPS has been adjusted a few times but hasn't been touched for awhile and it was running mint once before at its position.

Shouldn't the TPS only effect the idle speed really, not if the car should start or not?

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

Mechanical timing is off. Place a ruler between the cam gears, flat on the surface of the head. Both timing marks should line up perfectly at the bottom edge of the ruler. If not, redo timing and hope you didn't bend valves.

 

[crxdsmdan]

Timing is perfect, redid it at least 5 times already, made sure its all good, started, idles good, no power tho. left the car alone and the next day it wouldn't start, just cranks.

 

[hotrodssnova]

I seen in your other thread you checked the compression. Do you have those numbers? Did you get any new codes between yesterday and today?
You haven't tried to turn the engine over by hand using the cam bolts have you? That's a sure fire way to slip the belt. You have to use the crank bolt.

 

[crxdsmdan]

they were 115-120 on all 4, cold motor. car ran with that compression.

Haven't checked the codes in 2 weeks or so, ill have to check that again.

Shouldn't be internals as it idled fine 2 days ago and nothing has been done since.

 

[hotrodssnova]

When you crank it, have you pulled your plugs afterwards? If so were they soaked with gas? If not, injectors might be clogged. I seen you changed the fuel filter. Have you pulled the return fuel line off and verified fuel flow through the rail?
Just tossing ideas out.

 

[crxdsmdan]

Yes i pulled the plugs, they had gas. return line did have fuel as well.

Im sure its a damaged sensor or something electronic, cant think of what else it can be.

:s

 

[hotrodssnova]

Time to look at spark now. If you have gas, then it a spark/timing issue

 

[crxdsmdan]

Has spark, and timing is dead on.

 

[DSM1G90]

Nope .. ECU is punking out on you. With you saying to pull codes takes some time. That's a red flag right there.

Even though the caps can look good-not swollen or leaking, but there are components on that momboard that are failing.

If that's the original 1992 ECU, 20 yrs is a good life for an ECU, yet it's getting awful tired with dried out caps and such

I went through the same until I replaced the ECU. All is good now.

 

[Kurptk]

Sorry to upset anyone about my comment. Don't take it personally I just speak my mind when it comes to vehicles & manufacturing screw ups. I was more laughing at it, since I work in the automotive design industry

I come from the Toyota World, Supra's & MR2 Turbo mostly. Not once have I seen a failed ECU and I have built more of them then I can count and that is going back further then 20years. When people are wanting to buy ECU's from me I tell them its not the problem and I have never been wrong in that aspect. (aside from one idiot drilling a hole through his). Its usually related to people not know how to wire swaps properly.

As for the Evo being the same thing, your right to a point. Aside from the transmission and diffs being stronger + geared different, bottom ends were complete junk. Crank walked like all 7bolts.......ringlands(EVOIII only) ect. I believe any motor can suffer from crank walk given high clamping force clutches (even 1jz/2jz do it with over 2800lbs) but stock? really? Not even high km either. Hence why I have a fully forged 6bolt in mine now

For the record this car is extremely well maintained. All the service has been done at proper intervals and its COMPLETELY STOCK. No MODS, no hacked wiring, even has the stock airbox on it

SO unless you can tell me how to maintain a 20yr old ECU you can't really blame the owners neglect as this car has had more then its fair share

 

[crxdsmdan]

Is there anything I can replace on the board or do i just have to get a new one? I can re-solder the caps if you think they are dried out.

 

[hotrodssnova]

http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm
That will help you out. EBay sells them. I just did mine over the weekend. Tv shops can do it too. Post a pic of the ecu get the pic of the 3 caps in the middle of the 2 up right boards. Nice and close

 

[crxdsmdan]

Ok well ill try replacing the caps or ill look around for a new ECU. Ill reply if it solved the problem.

 

[hotrodssnova]

If you decide to replace the caps, its a lot cheaper then a new ecu. Also check your isc under the throttle body. Sometimes those will go bad and they will take the ecu out also. Just need to check the ohms on it. If they aren't in spec, you run the chance of smoking your new ecu. Just a FYI.

 

[oganika21]

my problem

got a 96 eclipse gs-turbo a few days ago, wouldn't start just crank.

found a clip on the intake manifold that was unplugged, hooked it up, turned over on the second kick

idled to redline, either a stuck TB or a big vacume leak.

cleaned the TB, and found a big vacume leak in my intake plenum (bolts finger tight, old worn gasket, replaced it, torqued everything down, hooked everything back up. exspected it to turn over and work this time. no dice

it just cranks again, getting frustrated, would i have to reset the ECU after unhooking so much stuff?

my plugs are wet with fresh gas, not getting any spark again, but now everythings hooked up. anyone got any advice? i'd appreciate it