The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

2G Starting issue

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

LR35

Probationary Member
25
0
Feb 8, 2015
crothersville, Indiana
OK guys need some help here, my starter acted like it was going out in my 97 gst. I replaced it with the one off of my parts car(97 spyder gst) and now it won't start. I'm getting compression, fuel and spark...... I have no clue what's going on any ideas????
 
They are both auto, it ran before but would grind a little when starting. It seems like it turns over to slow to start, I've tried a different battery and still the same. Taking the starter off to have it checked now
 
The old starter really didn't even look bad, I'm going to have it checked also, they look exactly the same, they are the same year,etc. Just my parts car is a vert
 
OK is there a different firing order or plug routing on these cars? I know it sounds stupid but my plugs were routed different then the diagrams that I'm finding. I found that my coil was burnt on the inside of #1 so I was hoping this was the issue
 
OK it will crank but sounds like it's trying to lock up????? I'm freaking lost here.
 
It doesn't give me the option to post a video, the teeth had a little wear on them but it's still grabbing pretty good. I can't even get the plug wires correct, last night I finally got it to back fire a little, could it have possibly jumped time but not have bent the valves??
 
Are you absolutely positive your battery isn't dead? I know it's cold in Indy. I would hook up some jumper cables up to it just in case. It's possible it has jumped timing, weird that it would happen after changing the starter though. Never hurts to check.
 
Yeah I've used 2 batteries and had cables on it when trying, I guess I'm going to pull it apart tomorrow and check the timing, if it's not that then I don't know
 
Ok a starter will always pass a bench test unless it is seriously messed up.

You can tell by sound if a starter is good or not, it should sound like a mid pitch dremel, a strong audible humming whirring noise with little to no front to back movement in the cone of the starter from the teeth. Ask them if you can watch them test the starter, at autozone we always let you watch

Ask your local parts store to test yours and a brand new one. If your starter is good the noise they make should be exactly the same. If yours is lower pitched or not as loud it is bad.

And I'm not going to sugar coat this so I will say it, just buy a new one from the autoparts store and hook it up. If it doesn't fix your problem just return it AFTER you find the real problem and tell them you never used it.
 
What all did you remove?!?! Im currently having starter/battery issues and i literally removed the battery and the batt plate to get to the starter and swap them.
 
That's all I removed also, I got underneath the car and had my son help me route the starter up in between the heater hoses, I'm gonna try a new starter later this week and see if that resolves my issue
 
I should have been detailed on my response

When the starter is installed in the car and you turn the key what kind of noise does the car make? Does it click a bunch of times or does it click just once, or nothing at all?

A battery can have 12 volts and operate your lights and radio flawlessly and still not be able to start the car. The battery has to send a high amount of amps to the starter and causes most no start problems.

Try to jump start the car first. It could be a bad battery. If it doesn't jump start just take the battery with you to the parts store to be tested before you buy a new starter

Here in Texas most batteries last only 3 years on cars that are long commute daily drivers
 
Does the shaft of the starter have any play? Mine some how wore away the end of the housing to it would not mesh correctly with my flywheel, use a telescoping mirror to check the teeth on your converter to make sure they haven't been ground down to the point of not meshing.
 
OK well I replaced the starter and it fired right up but I'm on my 3rd starter and it's bad now. It starts grinding real bad then goes out, any ideas before I pull the trans and replace the flywheel/tc
 
You have a bad ground wire or something causing it to ark out. This would make it strain for power and chew up the teeth. How have the last few starters looked when removed? Your flywheel has to be really chewed up by now and not helping either bro. Check over your grounds for any sign of arking.
 
The teeth look pretty good on all the starters and the flywheel just by looking at them, when the starters go bad and I take them off u can hear the shaft moving when u shake it. The first couple times that u start it, it does fine then it starts to grind then it goes into just winding.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top