ssautochrome o2 housing

[tstkl]

very simple, just a few questions on this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DSM-...33742QQitemZ8049446307QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

is it 3 inches or 2.5? I've talked to someone who said there ssautochrome o2 housing was 3 inches, so will that work with my 2.5 inch to 3 inch downpipe? I doubt it

anyone who OWNS THIS had any problems with it? cracks and such?

hows it perform?

thanks, and please try and keep this an owners only thread. If you have something important to say ok, but I honestly don't care if you think ssautochrome is xyz because your russian friend who lives in africa with his 9000 hp dsm bought this and it blew up on him and killed him.

 

[fastezz]

my friend had one it fit perfectly he drove the shit out of his car and ran hella boost, it didnt crack or show any signs of draw back what so ever, i would have bought one if my friend didnt have a punishment o2 housing in his garage he was lookign to sell when i wanted to put my 16g on.

 

[TRBOBLU]

I bought the same one a while back. Its is barely 2.5" . They advertised a 3" but I did not get a 3" O2. I was also a little pissed cause I had to enlarge holes for it to bolt to my T28 and the flanges were warped so I filed them down. Other than that it is a decent buy.

 

[91-gsx]

i bought mine a few months ago and it is still shiny and did not crack. i too had to enlarge the bolt holes to get it to fit, they dont line up. other then that it is a great buy. and it is a 2.5" opening, not 3"
later

 

[tstkl]

how warped are we talking? did you file it down with a hand file?(I doubt it) what did you use? anyone else have this problem?


also, I religiously replace gaskets whenever I crack something open (see throttle body gaskets as annoying as hell) do you need to replace exhaust gaskets like this too? It would be annoying to get new o2 housing gaskets and have to replace them once I did a turbo install.

 

[compression]

there was a few minor problems , like he said ^ the bolt holes had to be enlarged , well more like smoothed the bolts that came with it didnt quite fit , easy fix, and a bracket on the water line for the oil cooler but yours is air cooled so maybe you wont have this problem ( i used the watercooler from the 92 6bolt that i bought )


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mine is 3" it was measured. but mine has a wg dump tube. so maybe they dont make a 3" internal dump o2 housing.

 

[tstkl]

what downpipe are you using with that 3 inch o2 housing?

I was thinking about just getting a 3 inch flex section and 3 inch 72 degree bend and welding that to my dejon downpipe.

 

[RedRex02]

there was a few minor problems , like he said ^ the bolt holes had to be enlarged , well more like smoothed the bolts that came with it didnt quite fit , easy fix, and a bracket on the water line for the oil cooler but yours is air cooled so maybe you wont have this problem ( i used the watercooler from the 92 6bolt that i bought )


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mine is 3" it was measured. but mine has a wg dump tube. so maybe they dont make a 3" internal dump o2 housing.

I am confused to as which bracket was in the way?

 

[talon96tsi]

Did your housing come with threads in the downpipe flange for the dp studs?

 

[keymaster]

They don't come threaded, you have to use a nut and bolt and I recommend crush washers to secure the dp.

 

[RedRex02]

They don't come threaded, you have to use a nut and bolt and I recommend crush washers to secure the dp.

correct me if I am wrong, but every aftermarket o2 housing has unthreaded bolt holes. I went to ACE hardware and got some grade 8 bolts, some cruch washers and some nuts, and it is still pumpin.
Jon

 

[90 TSI FWD]

I am confused to as which bracket was in the way?

That holds up the downpipe

 

[keymaster]

correct me if I am wrong, but every aftermarket o2 housing has unthreaded bolt holes. I went to ACE hardware and got some grade 8 bolts, some cruch washers and some nuts, and it is still pumpin.
Jon

No, you're right, that's basically what I was saying. They don't come threaded, so you have to buy two bolts and two nuts. I highly recommend crush washers, since I have personal experience with the nuts backing off, and having my custom downpipe slam into the street at 40mph.

 

[funguy]

I have the same 2.5" 02 housing as well mated to a 2g 3" megan racing awd downpipe, had it for 1 month now and no problems.

Well, except, yes you have to file the center of the flange (skinny part) where it is warped. Not enough material there and high heat don't mix. I just used a dremel for a faster job to grind her down until the rocking of the housing decreased to a minimum. I didn't have a problem of the bolt holes not lining up though, like others.

Its a bi*** to get it on if you have the turbo still on the car, hard to reach the nut closest to the engine so i suggest taking the turbo off. O2 sensor may hit the water pipe, might have troubles putting that on. Also, there is not enough clearance to put both bolts with the head on the top side so they will have to be opposite. I strongly suggest putting grade 8 bolts on, with lock washers as well. I used their hardware and my downpipe almost fell off.

Make sure you retorque the turbo to O2 housing nuts after a heat cycle or they will vibrate off. That happened to me as well . If this is on the 2g you will have to modify the lower heat shield as well.

Other then what i have said, can't beat it for the hassle vs price

Thanks for reading

Derek

 

[toojung2die]

I just put one of these O2 housings (recirculated) between my FP Big T28 and RRE downpipe. It is definitely not a "take it out of the box and slap it on" kind of part. I had to make several modifications before I was satisfied.

As everyone notices, the flange is warped because of the welding. It looks like they run the flange quickly over a belt sander but it still isn't close to flat. I called some machine shops to see if I could get it milled flat. The first couple said they aren't set up for that kind of job. The last shop said they could do it but it would take 1.5 hours @ $80.00/hour. Forget that! 1.5 hours of careful work with a mill file and I got it flat enough so it didn't rock and I could no longer see light through the gaps when held tight against the turbo. You can see in the photo where I started to file and take down the high spots.

The mounting holes don't line up and need to be enlarged. That was remedied quickly with a die grinder and carbide burr.

The small round hole for the waste gases in the flange didn't allow my wastegate flapper to open more than 45 degrees. I got out the die grinder and carbide bit for a little porting. I gasket matched the o2 housing flange to the stock o2 housing gasket. I needed to be careful because I didn't want to weaken the flange where it's welded to the stainless tubing. I also enlarged the opening in the flange to the exhaust pipe a little to match the ported outlet on my T28. The inlet hole in the flange was closer to 2.25" than 2.5". It is closer to 2.5" now. The flange to the downpipe is 2.5".

The flange is blocking a good portion of the inlet to the exhaust path because the exhaust tubing is welded to the edge of the flange instead of the face. I used the die grinder to round off the square edge of the flange inside the pipe for smoother flow.

I haven't driven the car yet because I'm still installing my FMIC. At this point my biggest concern is with the seal on the flange. I used the crappy gasket that comes with the o2 housing because it's thick and sprayed it with copper exhaust gasket sealer. If this housing doesn't perform well I'm going to port my stock o2 housing and put that back on. I spent hours on this housing and if my time is worth anything, I probably could've afforded a better made product.

 

[funguy]

i would like to ask how do you know how far your flapper is opening? you look at the wastegate arm? i'm using a garrett small t28 and didn't really check that.

 

[toojung2die]

i would like to ask how do you know how far your flapper is opening? you look at the wastegate arm? i'm using a garrett small t28 and didn't really check that.

Disconnect the actuator from the wastegate arm so it swings free. The wastegate flapper arm should be able to open 90 degrees from fully closed without binding or hitting anything.

 

[daren_p]

Disconnect the actuator from the wastegate arm so it swings free. The wastegate flapper arm should be able to open 90 degrees from fully closed without binding or hitting anything.

Just because the flapper arm will open 90 deg, down't mean the actuator will open the flapper this far, so sometimes addition porting behind the flapper isn't required. I know the Mitsu WG actuators only open the flapper about 45 deg, fully extended (why its pointless to port the area behind the flapper on the turbine housing). To check actuator travel just apply pressure to it and see how far it moves. Start with a low pressure and gradually increse it till the actuator stops moving. If I recall my evoIII actuator stoped travelling any further around 12 psi.

 

[UMR98GSX]

I had one for about a year before I went T3 and I never had a problem with it. My flange was flat and my bolt holes lined up perfectly on my T25. I had it mated to a Megan downpipe with their hardware and it never came undone either (torqued the hell out of the bolts). The inside diameter on mine was about 2.75". I think that this just like other SSAutochrome parts are hit or miss but for the price on this aprt I say go with it!

 

[toojung2die]

Just because the flapper arm will open 90 deg, down't mean the actuator will open the flapper this far, so sometimes addition porting behind the flapper isn't required. I know the Mitsu WG actuators only open the flapper about 45 deg, fully extended (why its pointless to port the area behind the flapper on the turbine housing). To check actuator travel just apply pressure to it and see how far it moves. Start with a low pressure and gradually increse it till the actuator stops moving. If I recall my evoIII actuator stoped travelling any further around 12 psi.

You're absolutely right; it is the actuator travel limit that ultimately determines how far the wastegate will open.
When I disconnected the actuator and compared flapper motion between the stock o2 housing and the SS Autochrome o2 housing there was obviously something hitting the flapper. That bothered me. I also didn't like the restricted path for gases into the comparatively small waste tube opening. I feel that by porting the flange to more resemble the opening in the stock o2 housing I'm achieving better waste gas flow, unrestricted flapper movement and helping to eliminate the possibility of boost creep.
It’s an advantage having a DSM that’s not my DD. I can take as much time as I want to make things work.

 

[Nighthawk01]

i also have the exsact peice,,
the downpipe flange is 2.5 inside diamiter and will work great with a 2.5 inlet 3 inch outlet downpipe.
holes for dp flange are not threaded,, and here's what i did with mine.

i already was planning to take it to my welder and have him weld in a stanless steel egt bung. so while he was at it i had him weld one of the stanless bolts that came with it right in the flange,, and on the other side (cant get the bolt in through the top) i had him weld one of the nuts on,, so it's a one handed job to get the downpipe off and on, like the factory 02 housing,, works very well..

holes for turbo mounting were slightly off,, not a huge thing,, and the flange was slightly warped,, not to much though.

nice peice overall

 

[tsidrift1]

does anyone know how to fix the problem of the o2 sensor hitting the water pipe.


Let me know,
Anthony

 

[toojung2die]

does anyone know how to fix the problem of the o2 sensor hitting the water pipe.

Why is your o2 sensor hitting the water pipe? The ss autochrome o2 housing I have has the o2 bung in the 1g position. It's close to the turbo flange. I have a 2g. The stock 2g o2 housings have the o2 sensor down low closer to the down pipe flange. I had no problem relocating my o2 sensor up to the 1g position. Looks like you have a 1g. There is even a cut-out in the lower exhaust manifold shield for either o2 sensor position. Can you post a picture?

 

[tsidrift1]

you can tell that the o2 bung is shifted a little towards the right more than what it should. 300 o2 housings on the shelf, I got the defective one.

 

[tsidrift1]

the o2 sensor bung is shifted a little more to the right than what it should be. I dont know what to do with it. I am trying to get a hold of ssautochrome about it but they havn responded yet. It would be nice if they would swap me for a new one. who knows?