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Serpentine belt conversion.

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if you did it like you have it layed out on your image, you would also have to change the water pump pulley from a ribbed pulley to a smooth pulley or else you will tear your belt to pieces. just noticed that, good luck if you ever do pull it off! good idea btw!
 
I'm aware of the smooth vs. ribbed pulleys and would change in accordingly. This diagram I did isn't a final layout and as mentioned, it is subject to change. I will be toying with this a little at a time to adjust the belt wrap. I already know that not everything is lined up for one belt, but that is something I thought of before I ever posted this and will be taken care of as well. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
I say don't do it because if that serpentine belt brakes you loose everything. As with what you have now you have three belts. My friend broke his serpentine belt on his EVO and the car shut off. But if you don't break the alternator belt on the 4g63 it will still run if you brake another belt. But it probable can be done.
 
Relocate alternator to A/C location (remove A/C). Move tensioner to between water pump and power steering pump, make it push down on the belt there. The belt will be routed like so: from crank to power steering, under the tensioner, over the water pump, around the alternator, and back to crank. Only issue with that is will crank have enough surface area with the belt. If not, an idler pulley can possibly be added between it and the alternator to make it wrap around the crank pulley more.
 
Late responding to this but I was talking Evo 8/9 4G63.

They are a serpentine belt system. I don't know how the confusion came up on discussing the timing belt, the serpentine belt has NOTHING to do with the timing belt.

There may be some difference in the casting of the block/front case to accommodate the various pulleys, for one the PS pump is on the opposite side of the motor. I just did an Evo 8 timing belt, some I have first hand experience with the Evo setup.

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I believe on 2G (or 1G) it is possible to route the serpentine belt as shown in light blue in the diagram below. The idler pulley is to be used as tensioner. Possibly one off the A/C belt can be used.
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Feel free to use the templates if y'all have something else in mind.
 

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From crank, around water pump, around power steering pump, around alternator, and back to the crank. That way nothing needs to be relocated and no extra pulleys/tensioners needed. Use alternator and/or power steering pump to tighten the belt. Why did i not think of that before? :ohdamn:
 
That's a good idea. I was just looking at diagrams for the Evo IX engine on JNZ for the pulleys. Priced under $37.00 before tax and shipping. So I'm gonna get prices for all the pulley swaps and go from there. Will most likely need a serpentine belt from said Evo, but not sure on length. Think I'll go by the dealership to see if they have one on hand I can measure and then measure the distance on the pulley conversions when finished.

My plan for this would involve the alt relocation to the a/c spot since I deleted that a long time ago. But I've read posts about the relocation parts breaking. Anyone know how much tensioner stress it can take? Just thinking if it can't handle a lot, it may need to be beefed up for this belt setup.




http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/396830-dissatisfied-alternator-relocation-kit.html
 
Take a piece of string and route it over/around pulleys on the motor (don't have to be perfect, can even be done before swapping pulleys) as if you were routing a belt. Tie the string into the loop so it fits like a belt would. Now you have a good representation of the belt you will need.
And i'd say beef up the alternator mounts (get steel instead of aluminum). Don't take chances on them breaking.
 
I don't see why everyone on this post has been so negative to the idea, I mean if he actually gets this system to work on our cars other tuners will have more options available to them.

I personally don't need a single belt setup right now, it might have a purpose a few years down the road who knows.
keep us posted on the results.
 
It's not that we were being all negative to the idea, many just misunderstood the OP's intentions. i.e. trying to include the timing belt. You just never know sometimes! :D

I think it's a fine idea and probably worth the experiment. I just have no desire to do this, ever. Nor do I see how "other tuners will have more options available to them". <-- itd be a cold day in hell when our DSMs are still running around but all the parts had evaporated over time, leaving nothing but retrofitted evo9 parts.
I'm in for the ride, either way.
 
I would ask that before you go through the cost and trouble of doing serpentine belts you remove the PS belt for a week. For this week keep in mind that properly depowering the rack makes it 10-15% easier and gives you even more "feel" of the road. The reasons so many people remove PS go beyond removing a belt.

Good luck if you do go this route.
 
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Out of the 4 DSMs I've owned over the past 11 years, only one ran with power steering all the time. My current spyder even has no p/s right now because I hate having go remove the alt belt to put a new p/s belt on. I hate dealing with all the tensioners. I definitely know how it feels not having it hooked up. Its true that it can be good for racing and such, but for a DD, I'd rather have the p/s working right. With doing a serpentine swap, I'd only have one belt, one tensioner, and less irritation when replacing a belt. And I like experimenting ;)
 
I know is being so long since I saw this thread, but I just want to add a pic of a set up.
I was going to do a thread about it, but because I posted in this thread before, I think is a good idea to leave a taste of it.

Like I said, it still in progress, I still have to add the tensioner so will see how it goes.


Here is a pic of the process, it is not done jet, still in progress, however it's functional and is in my ride breaking down a new 2.4.
 

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I will be using an Evo tensioner but in order to use the evo, I need to use the evo filter housing, so those two parts are on the mail all ready.

The Evo tensioner tens towards the crank pulley, so I will have to modified that to make it to tens away from the crank pulley.,
I modified a different tensioner but didn't like how it end up.

Here is a pic of the one I didn't like it.
 

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Yea I know, I like the way it is now, but I'm consern that It needs a tensioner.

There is no way to put a tensioner somewhere else.

I am using a chevy alternator, it's 140amp from factory, it's a SC144 alternator,. The alternator is big compared to the dsm and Saturn, however it uses the same connector as the Saturn so wiring is the same, the only change I did to it is the pulley, I use a Subaru pulley,.
Because of the size of the alternator using the long pulley from the Subaru it brings the alternator back and clears better the steering system.
Here is a pic of it.
 

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Damn, looks really good. I'm glad someone has done this so once I start working mine, I got someone to bounce ideas off of. Hopefully later this year. Already getting parts stored up for my build.
 
It's amaizing how the belt holds, the belt is not tight enough like the original ones and it doesn't squil at all.

I was realy happy with the end results, at the beginning I was nervous concerning about the pulleys ligening up one to each other, but it really came up nice.
 
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