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1G Sealing all engine gaskets, and transmission

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Geeb

Proven Member
384
47
Apr 6, 2016
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Hey guys..

I got my block machined flat and all and my head surface is flat and was o-ringed by the previous owner. He used steel o rings with an oem mls gasket and a ton of never dried copper spray..

I removed the steel o rings and I'm going to replace them with copper o rings, also with an oem mls so they will squish. Some people will say this is useless, others will say this is the way to go..

My question is, should I use copper spray also on the gasket? I measured with a flat-square and I can't fit .002" between any part of it and I measured in about 20+ spots so it's all within spec.. But I will be running pte 6165 about 32-35ish psi on e85 so what would the best option be?

I got oem gaskets for the head, like the water neck gasket, and stuff..
Also, for the blocks gaskets I got the cometic street pro kit.. Should I seal these with a bit of copper spray, or permatex right stuff, or even that indian gasket shellac stuff?

I just want to be sure everything will seal 100% without leaking..

I'm also rebuilding my transmission, and OEM mitsubond for manual trans is like 50 bucks for a small tube..
..I was thinking about using grey Right Stuff on the bell housing and all..

What do you guys think?
 
I've done a ton of transmissions with permatex grey. For what it's worth I do NOT make a bead of this stuff. A thin layer smeared on is all I use. I have a big pet peeve with trans missions with the goop squished out at every seam. Even better if it's squished out on the outside its squished out on the inside too. Needle bearing oil passages love that when it breaks off and circulates through the trans.
 
I have always had great luck with the grey permatex. For example, I've had a leaking oil filter housing ever since the motor has ran (~900 miles so far) and last week I removed it and immediately knew why it was leaking; It had just a gasket with no permatex. I put permatex on basically all my gasket surfaces regardless of if the manual calls for it. I also do a shaman routine to ward off leaks. I have never had a leak after doing a shaman routine, therefore, science would indicate that shamanism is real.
 
Where do you plan to get e85? They closed the pump on Vine St a while ago. Might want to plan that one out depending on what area you live at and if you're planning on daily driving it.

I use hylomar on all paper gaskets.
 
I, too, use this on dam near every gasket on my DSM's. Even on some fasteners to keep them from vibrating loose.
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I have always had great luck with the grey permatex. For example, I've had a leaking oil filter housing ever since the motor has ran (~900 miles so far) and last week I removed it and immediately knew why it was leaking; It had just a gasket with no permatex. I put permatex on basically all my gasket surfaces regardless of if the manual calls for it. I also do a shaman routine to ward off leaks. I have never had a leak after doing a shaman routine, therefore, science would indicate that shamanism is real.

Haha yeah I grabbed a can of it, with the screw on tip.. Small size, last time I got a big one, still have half left in it but it's all dried in there LOL

Where do you plan to get e85? They closed the pump on Vine St a while ago. Might want to plan that one out depending on what area you live at and if you're planning on daily driving it.

I use hylomar on all paper gaskets.

I got the spray on stuff from p.tex, stuff you're supposed to use with paper gaskets I forget what it's called..

I never heard of hylomar though..

There was a place off street road that had e85, they might be off line too...

If worst comes to worst there's like this big truck stop in allentown that still has it about an hour from me.... I'll have to grab a few drums and fill up.

Not going to be running straight e85, going to be running a flex fuel sensor and an innovate ethanol content gauge so I can see where I'm at with it..

I, too, use this on dam near every gasket on my DSM's. Even on some fasteners to keep them from vibrating loose.
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The ultra grey is good, but did you ever use permatex Right Stuff? It is awesome.
 
OmegaFuels on street road closed too... We are dry here. So its an hr drive to allentown or an hr drive into NJ.
 
The Rite Stuff will seal anything, but its a BIATCH to get off. Grey permatex is a harder, thicker fast setting silicone. Just a preference in case I have to take it apart, god forbid, but it's a DSM....
Oh and vibration resistant which works great on our vibrating cars :)
 
Like mentioned I do not bead the gray, I smear it across the surface and then wait for it to get tacky, and lightly install it. Wait 30 minutes then torque it, and wait 24 hours for it to cure.

If you dont have 24 hours for it to cure then I question why you own a dsm, it better not be your primary form of transportation LOL

Copper gasket spray is a preference. I usually do a light coating, let it get tacky and then install it. Its not necessary on a decked block, I mainly use it on cleaned blocks when im doing a gasket slap. I assume its coating helps fill in minor imperfections in the surace material. But that's just my back yard redneck engineering degree talking
 
The Rite Stuff will seal anything, but its a BIATCH to get off. Grey permatex is a harder, thicker fast setting silicone. Just a preference in case I have to take it apart, god forbid, but it's a DSM....
Oh and vibration resistant which works great on our vibrating cars :)
Interesting, I thought the rite stuff and permatex grey was the same thing. See, you really old people can teach us youngins a thing!
 
The Rite Stuff will seal anything, but its a BIATCH to get off. Grey permatex is a harder, thicker fast setting silicone. Just a preference in case I have to take it apart, god forbid, but it's a DSM....
Oh and vibration resistant which works great on our vibrating cars :)

Oh god I know. I had everything sealed and I went to start the car first time i rebuilt one (this is before i went built, and everything was mostly stock) and a bunch of things went wrong. The retainers were on the springs wrong (too shallow) and there was no crankshaft key installed, so everything went out of time, and a bunch of valves bent and the retainers shot off the springs, all just from cranking it... But when I opened it back up of i saw I right stuffed everything too thick and there was a ton that squeezed on the inside of the OFH, and the front case, etc.. could have blocked passages and whatnot leading to an even worse failure so if everything happens for a reason... That was it.

...and it was such a pain getting it all off.. Hah..

Like mentioned I do not bead the gray, I smear it across the surface and then wait for it to get tacky, and lightly install it. Wait 30 minutes then torque it, and wait 24 hours for it to cure.

If you dont have 24 hours for it to cure then I question why you own a dsm, it better not be your primary form of transportation LOL

Copper gasket spray is a preference. I usually do a light coating, let it get tacky and then install it. Its not necessary on a decked block, I mainly use it on cleaned blocks when im doing a gasket slap. I assume its coating helps fill in minor imperfections in the surace material. But that's just my back yard redneck engineering degree talking

Yeah when i was 20, I had my first dsm, it was my primary car... And never had an issue until I (over)paid a shop to redo my clutch, and after that it was one problem after another, leading to 2 transmissions breaking in a row... Oh well, that tought me to either DIY, or the dsm life isn't for you.

And you can see what I said to @1990TSIAWDTALON , I learned my lesson with over-beading/globbing..

Interesting, I thought the rite stuff and permatex grey was the same thing. See, you really old people can teach us youngins a thing!

My friend first told me about it a while back, and when he said "use the grey right stuff" I thought he was just saying that regulat grey was the correct stuff to use.. Lol.. Then I saw it at pep boys I was like ohh duhh haha
 
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