Running Rich

[whiteboyz]

Ok, i cant figure this out. No matter what i have done i always run really rich. and it is killing me. my oil always smells like gas. I have a evo1 16g, hks Int/Exh 264 cams, stock rebuild on bottom end just done like 100 miles ago. AFPR set at 42lbs, pretty sure its a stock fuel pump with no rewire, i am vented back into my maf. my mods are listed in mods list. i have dsmlink v2 just not installed yet as i was told to wait till i broke the motor in. but i have always run rich. i did a BLT and no leaks, i am running my stock 450's i hav a set of evo510'sjust havent installed them yet and my WB is not currently hooked up. i will have to do that today.

I am soooo confused on what is causing this. i have done 2 months of reading on the ecmlinks website but im unsure on where to start if i did hook the link up. just to get rid of the rich issue. any input would be GREAT.. thank you

p.s. when the WB was installed it was just dumping fuel at idle it would say rich or be in the 10's and if i remember right it would lean out at WOT. but i will have to install it today to double check .

 

[gofer]

your oil smells like gas.
im not sure who told you to hook up dsmlink after you break in your motor but that has nothing to do with breaking in your motor. you could actually get your car running better using dsmlink and possibly see whats going wrong so you can drive your car and actually break in your motor.
are you getting a CEL by any chance? im asking because if your front o2 sensor is bad/faulty the ECU won't go into closed loop (it'll get stuck in open loop) so you probably would be running rich. then once you mash the gas and your 16g spools up pushing more air then your OEM fuel system can keep up with you lean out...

may i ask why you've got a afpr while running a stock fp? if i were you id get setup in dsmlink, install your evo fuel injectors, hook up your wideband (where are you installing it/how?), and then do a log of it idling until it warms up (coolant temp 190* or more).

 

[whiteboyz]

your oil smells like gas.
im not sure who told you to hook up dsmlink after you break in your motor but that has nothing to do with breaking in your motor. you could actually get your car running better using dsmlink and possibly see whats going wrong so you can drive your car and actually break in your motor.
are you getting a CEL by any chance? im asking because if your front o2 sensor is bad/faulty the ECU won't go into closed loop (it'll get stuck in open loop) so you probably would be running rich. then once you mash the gas and your 16g spools up pushing more air then your OEM fuel system can keep up with you lean out...

may i ask why you've got a afpr while running a stock fp? if i were you id get setup in dsmlink, install your evo fuel injectors, hook up your wideband (where are you installing it/how?), and then do a log of it idling until it warms up (coolant temp 190* or more).

Yes i have always had a CEL light, i will hook my scanner back up and check to see what it was throwing again, it was a few codes. I dont have a rear o2 sensor, well its there just the wires are broke. I bought the AFPR as i thought i needed it, i have tried to lower it but i cant really get lower then stock fp on it. and wasnt sure on what to run for fp. I was going to install it in my exhaust about 2 feet from the front 02 housing i have a bung. is that ok ? and how ummmm just hook up the power and ground then plug in the harness for the 02 and call it a day ? i have 2 other wires with it a white wire and gray wire not sure what they are for. Very new to tuning and log'n so i will do the best i can =]. i have read the dsm wiki alot but still a little confused as they use formulas and stuff i dont understand. and thank you for the help

p.s also when i had the stock fp it ran richer i swear my car hates me. But it could be diff now.?.

 

[gofer]

Yes i have always had a CEL light, i will hook my scanner back up and check to see what it was throwing again, it was a few codes. I dont have a rear o2 sensor, well its there just the wires are broke. I bought the AFPR as i thought i needed it, i have tried to lower it but i cant really get lower then stock fp on it. and wasnt sure on what to run for fp. I was going to install it in my exhaust about 2 feet from the front 02 housing i have a bung. is that ok ? and how ummmm just hook up the power and ground then plug in the harness for the 02 and call it a day ? i have 2 other wires with it a white wire and gray wire not sure what they are for. Very new to tuning and log'n so i will do the best i can =]. i have read the dsm wiki alot but still a little confused as they use formulas and stuff i dont understand. and thank you for the help

p.s also when i had the stock fp it ran richer i swear my car hates me. But it could be diff now.?.

the ECU uses the front o2 sensor for closed loop operation, in closed loop the ECU watches the front o2 sensors voltage to determine your AFR during idle and normal driving load. the ECU uses the rear o2 sensor to check the catalytic converters efficiency, nothing more... your rear o2 sensor not being there will only throw a CEL, it wouldn't be the cause of you running rich.
you don't need to plug up your scanner just setup dsmlink! i guess if you must plug in your scanner if you throw a "0125" excessive time to enter closed loop fuel control then odds are your front o2 sensor is toast and thats why your running rich.

as far as running your WB o2 sensor, it would make sense to me that you'd run it in the rear o2 sensor's location and just put on a cat-delete downpipe or a race pipe. you can get rid of the CEL you throw for not having one in dsmlink and you don't have to weld an extra bung up to use your WB then. depending on what WB o2 sensor you have you'd use one of those wires (probably the white one) to log with in dsmlink. if you run it in your rear o2 sensor location you'd CUT the wire going to pin #75 on the ECU then connect the white wire of your WB gauge to it. to get it to log in dsmlink you'd then go to your ECU inputs tab and click the "rear o2 sensor" drop down and pick which WB your running and then "save pin assignments" to get it to read from the rear o2 sensor location. then to get rid of your CEL from not having a rear o2 sensor you'd go to the DTCs tab and uncheck the "cat efficiency/o2" box and click the "clear all" button. too much? haha.

alright so for now check to see what those CEL codes are because thats whats going to point us in the right direction to fixing this problem. then setup dsmlink, no sense waiting to break in your motor.

 

[whiteboyz]

dang . ok so first thing i will do is hook my scanner up and check to see what codes i am throwing and i will report back to you with what i have got. and while im doing that i will hook up my WB. oh question, i was told if i took out my front o2 sensor and replaced it with my WB that would be bad and i would get no reading and the ecu would think i had no o2 sensor there and i can burn out my o2 sensor for my wb ? does that make any sense ?

so what your saying to do is disconnect my stock o2 sensor and take it out of the housing and hook up my WB o2 sensor in the same spot and hook it to my ecu ? sorry just a little bit confusing. I'm kinda slow

 

[gofer]

dang . ok so first thing i will do is hook my scanner up and check to see what codes i am throwing and i will report back to you with what i have got. and while im doing that i will hook up my WB. oh question, i was told if i took out my front o2 sensor and replaced it with my WB that would be bad and i would get no reading and the ecu would think i had no o2 sensor there and i can burn out my o2 sensor for my wb ? does that make any sense ?

so what your saying to do is disconnect my stock o2 sensor and take it out of the housing and hook up my WB o2 sensor in the same spot and hook it to my ecu ? sorry just a little bit confusing. I'm kinda slow

Definitely the first thing you should do is get the codes off the ECU and post up what you find.

You can use your front o2 sensor location to run your WB o2 sensor with dsmlink V3 ONLY, V2 doesn't have that capability. With dsmlink v2 you can however, run a WB o2 sensor in the rear o2 sensor location but you can't have a catalytic converter. If you're going to keep your catalytic converter you need to weld a bung on for it before the cat.

First things first, get those codes and we'll see what we're dealing with. Once we figure out what's going on with your car then I'll get you the info to get that WB installed correctly.

 

[whiteboyz]

Ok will do, And thank VERY much for all the help so far and the help you will be giving later. <(*_*)>

 

[gofer]

Ok will do, And thank VERY much for all the help so far and the help you will be giving later. <(*_*)>

ive been there done that and had help by experienced members off this site as well. i just hope that everything you learn you take onboard and help the next DSM'r that has the same problem.

 

[whiteboyz]

ive been there done that and had help by experienced members off this site as well. i just hope that everything you learn you take onboard and help the next DSM'r that has the same problem.

I'm always tryn to learn something new and share my knowledge that i have or have gained with people if i am able to help.

Ok so this is what I pulled out for codes.

Generic codes
P0443 - evap emission system purge control valve circuit. (i removed it all)
P0136 - O2 circuit (Bank 1 sensor 2)
P0141 - O2 heater circuit (Bank 1 sensor 2)
P0505 - Idle Air Control system

Chrysler Specific codes
P1500 - General alt "FR" terminal circuit fault ( pretty sure it my relay for the alt)
P1400 - manifold differential pressure sensor circuit malfunction( i don't use it as i deleted the egr valve.)

Gofer I remember reading about the group buy, and how you guys got %&*# on those rear lips. did you ever get your money back or sell it to someone ? if it was not so messed up it would look sweet on your ar with your wing

 

[gofer]

Ok so this is what I pulled out for codes.

Generic codes
P0443 - evap emission system purge control valve circuit. (i removed it all)
P0136 - O2 circuit (Bank 1 sensor 2)
P0141 - O2 heater circuit (Bank 1 sensor 2)
P0505 - Idle Air Control system

Chrysler Specific codes
P1500 - General alt "FR" terminal circuit fault ( pretty sure it my relay for the alt)
P1400 - manifold differential pressure sensor circuit malfunction( i don't use it as i deleted the egr valve.)

Gofer I remember reading about the group buy, and how you guys got %&*# on those rear lips. did you ever get your money back or sell it to someone ? if it was not so messed up it would look sweet on your ar with your wing

P0443 - Since you removed it all, once you setup dsmlink you can get rid of this CEL.

P0136 & P0141 - Since you cut the rear o2 sensor wires these two CEL's are appearing. Once again though you can get rid of them once you connect in dsmlink.

P0505 - This means that the control motor in your IAC is shot, the good news is that you can test it with a digital multimeter (DMM).

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P1500 - This CEL is thrown if your alternator goes bad or your ECU goes bad. What scares me about seeing this CEL with your P0505 is that your IAC will fail and short the ECU and burn it. The good news is your car still turns on and you haven't reported any smoke or burning smell coming from inside your car so hopefully its just the alternator.

P1400 - Again, you can make this CEL disappear once you get dsmlink properly hooked up.

If this were my car the first thing I'd start looking at would be that IAC. The IAC can get pretty expensive if you buy a new one, it can be upwards of $350 or more. This website though Rebuilt Mitsubishi ISCs or IACs only $100. -18 month warranty sells them rebuilt for $100+ whatever it is to ship. I'd suggest finding a DSM buddy that would be so kind as to let you borrow theirs just to test and make sure thats what it is. I'd also get the ball rolling on getting dsmlink setup if I were you. There are A LOT of things you can check just doing a log of your car at idle.

I still have my rear carbon fiber lip and I constantly get PM's from people asking if they can buy it. All my friends out here got screwed over on the deal not getting their money back or the lip. I didn't get my money back but atleast I got the lip and can hopefully make it look even one of these days, atleast thats the plan.

 

[whiteboyz]

Ok so thats good on most of them codes are able to go away with the link. Now for the alternator problem. when i start the car my volts are very low and my lights are dim, i have to drive it or rev it a while to get it to jump to 14v. i know that the relay for the alt is shot, as the wires are all broke and the relay is dismemberd, so maybe that is the problem. I have 3 ecu's all eprom 95's as o thought the rich problem was due to my ecu and it never fixd it haha.

the IAC, is that the FIAV ? and is it located on the TB ? if so i think its the one on the back bottom side of the TB. and if i unplug my TPS the jumping idle stops but i never leave it disconected. I am buyn a TB off a member here that is coming with working sensors so this could take care of that problem.

As for DSMlink i have the gigaware USB cable from radioshack and no matter what i try it says not connected in dsmlink. so i am tryn to sort out the problem. also do i need the WB hooked up to run a log in link? And my buddy that i got link from had it set for 950's and what not so i have to figure out a map or place to start as i think it's saved into the ecu. And I think i would set all the paramaters back to zero "0" ? correct?

well i hope you get the time to fix the lip. it would look hella sweet with ## spoiler.

 

[gofer]

Ok so thats good on most of them codes are able to go away with the link. Now for the alternator problem. when i start the car my volts are very low and my lights are dim, i have to drive it or rev it a while to get it to jump to 14v. i know that the relay for the alt is shot, as the wires are all broke and the relay is dismemberd, so maybe that is the problem. I have 3 ecu's all eprom 95's as o thought the rich problem was due to my ecu and it never fixd it haha.

the IAC, is that the FIAV ? and is it located on the TB ? if so i think its the one on the back bottom side of the TB. and if i unplug my TPS the jumping idle stops but i never leave it disconected. I am buyn a TB off a member here that is coming with working sensors so this could take care of that problem.

As for DSMlink i have the gigaware USB cable from radioshack and no matter what i try it says not connected in dsmlink. so i am tryn to sort out the problem. also do i need the WB hooked up to run a log in link? And my buddy that i got link from had it set for 950's and what not so i have to figure out a map or place to start as i think it's saved into the ecu. And I think i would set all the paramaters back to zero "0" ? correct?

well i hope you get the time to fix the lip. it would look hella sweet with ## spoiler.

If you know the wires/relay going to the alternator need some attention then fix it! I know its hard to go outside and work on it because its still cold in New York but you want your dsm to work don't you?

Heres a diagram of the throttle body, the IAC is labled as #2 and the TPS is labled as #1.

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Once again if you could get dsmlink setup correctly you might not even need to replace your IAC if your jumpy idle stops when you unplug your TPS. There is a button you can select that simulates the idle switch from the TPS.

As for your dsmlink connection problems read up on this thread, looks like the guy here got the radioshack cable to work you've just got to have the V2adapter for it as well. ECMTuning User Support Forums

You do have this adapter right?

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Just get dsmlink to connect to your laptop and then we'll talk about getting everything setup. You do not need your WB to log in dsmlink at all btw, its just a lot helpful when your going through your logs to tune with. You don't have to mean mug your WB while your at WOT, you can actually watch the road.

 

[whiteboyz]

If you know the wires/relay going to the alternator need some attention then fix it! I know its hard to go outside and work on it because its still cold in New York but you want your dsm to work don't you?

Heres a diagram of the throttle body, the IAC is labled as #2 and the TPS is labled as #1.

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Once again if you could get dsmlink setup correctly you might not even need to replace your IAC if your jumpy idle stops when you unplug your TPS. There is a button you can select that simulates the idle switch from the TPS.

As for your dsmlink connection problems read up on this thread, looks like the guy here got the radioshack cable to work you've just got to have the V2adapter for it as well. ECMTuning User Support Forums

You do have this adapter right?

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Just get dsmlink to connect to your laptop and then we'll talk about getting everything setup. You do not need your WB to log in dsmlink at all btw, its just a lot helpful when your going through your logs to tune with. You don't have to mean mug your WB while your at WOT, you can actually watch the road.

Yeah i got to get a 3 prong relay from the parts store and wire it up to replace the broken alt relay. But it is kinda hard to find time with 2 kids, my oldest girl is 7 and my youngest is 7 months. i try and find the time when i can , or when i can get a babysitter.

Here is a funny, m this is why i could not connect. my buddy that sold me the link had my 2 other ecus there so he sold me the cable and my spare ecu , found that out tonight so he gave me the right ecu. so i will link it up in the A.M after i get the oldest off to school.

And yes i have that adapter here is a pic of the cable with the adapter that i am using.

And i thought that #2 was the FIAV

 

[jeffo]

None of those codes should be making you run so rich though.

AFPR set at 42lbs

You checked that with the vacuum hose removed from the AFPR and plugged, right? The base fuel pressure should drop to ~33 psi when you attach the vacuum line.

 

[whiteboyz]

I pulled the line off the car while it was running and set it. but i did not plug the line off. i will double check in he a.m what i is with the line plugd wih my finger.

 

[steve]

The IAC can get pretty expensive if you buy a new one, it can be upwards of $350 or more. This website though Rebuilt Mitsubishi ISCs or IACs only $100. -18 month warranty sells them rebuilt for $100+ whatever it is to ship.

You can buy brand new ISC/IAC for less that that. Try looking them up at Rock Auto. They want about $80.

 

[gofer]

None of those codes should be making you run so rich though.

You checked that with the vacuum hose removed from the AFPR and plugged, right? The base fuel pressure should drop to ~33 psi when you attach the vacuum line.

You are correct, none of those codes point to anything that could be causing the car to run rich. He's got to fix one thing at a time, we could just start throwing ideas out there and shotgun troubleshoot it. Usually that leads to lots of wasted money and time under the hood though, just fixing one thing at a time.

You are correct about setting the AFPR with the vacuum hosed removed but plugging the vacuum line has no affect on setting the fuel pressure. After you set base fuel pressure to 43.5 psi and reconnect the vacuum hose the gauge should read around 37.5 psi.

You can buy brand new ISC/IAC for less that that. Try looking them up at Rock Auto. They want about $80.

Good info Steve, I've never had a bad IAC but I've always referred people to Foreign ECU Repair since thats the cheapest I've seen them.

 

[whiteboyz]

ok so i got a log at warm up idle, then one driving.

Ok here are the logs, im going to log again but with fuel and boost and maybe some other things being graphed. it is not a very first start up even though it was, my laptop takes a long time to load so maybe 1min then i was able to log.

Oh gofer, What will happen if i check the box for the simulate idle switch with TPS then i save to my ecu ?

 

[gofer]

ok so i got a log at warm up idle, then one driving.

Ok here are the logs, im going to log again but with fuel and boost and maybe some other things being graphed. it is not a very first start up even though it was, my laptop takes a long time to load so maybe 1min then i was able to log.

Oh gofer, What will happen if i check the box for the simulate idle switch with TPS then i save to my ecu ?

WOOHOO! Logs!

Add MAFRaw, ThotPos, CombinedFT, STFT, & LTFTLo to your logs.

To do that just do a quick log and the stop it, F12 & then F12 again. Then hit F10, this will pull up the Captured Values menu. Add those above values to your captured list and then select OK. Next hit F9, this is the Displayed Values menu and you'll want to add the above values to the Displayed list. Then click OK and start logging going for a spin.

Your front o2 sensor doesn't indicate that your idling rich so maybe its just your IAC/ISC giving you that rough idle.

 

[whiteboyz]

WOOHOO! Logs!

Add MAFRaw, ThotPos, CombinedFT, STFT, & LTFTLo to your logs.

To do that just do a quick log and the stop it, F12 & then F12 again. Then hit F10, this will pull up the Captured Values menu. Add those above values to your captured list and then select OK. Next hit F9, this is the Displayed Values menu and you'll want to add the above values to the Displayed list. Then click OK and start logging going for a spin.

Your front o2 sensor doesn't indicate that your idling rich so maybe its just your IAC/ISC giving you that rough idle.

, yeah took me abit was having problems with my powerinverter as my battery on my laptop is shot so i have to keep it plugged in. Ok cool i was doing it all by clicking and wasnt sure on what to add.

Im not blowing black smoke like i did on the old motor. i just smell gas in my oil like i did before. i will be doing another log and installing my WB after I bring my ll girl to her school dance tonight. s i will post them up later tonight.

any ideas on that simulate tps thing ? and if i try it and it doesnt work or what have it, im i able to remove it from my ecu wants it's saved ?

Oh yeah i forgot to mention this. the car feels sluggish with the link installed, but if i put my stock ecu its not sluggish. maybe i have to play with the settings ?

 

[gofer]

, yeah took me abit was having problems with my powerinverter as my battery on my laptop is shot so i have to keep it plugged in. Ok cool i was doing it all by clicking and wasnt sure on what to add.

Im not blowing black smoke like i did on the old motor. i just smell gas in my oil like i did before. i will be doing another log and installing my WB after I bring my ll girl to her school dance tonight. s i will post them up later tonight.

any ideas on that simulate tps thing ? and if i try it and it doesnt work or what have it, im i able to remove it from my ecu wants it's saved ?

Oh yeah i forgot to mention this. the car feels sluggish with the link installed, but if i put my stock ecu its not sluggish. maybe i have to play with the settings ?

Hey do the family thing first, its definitely more important than getting your DSM running for sure. I'm still young and the only two kids I have are my DSM's and I have a hard enough time keeping them in check.

That is whats so awesome about dsmlink because you can quickly make changes and adjustments and reprogram the ECU a countless amount of times. Once you connect in link go click the "Live Settings" button then from there it should have the tab you need to be in already open. Its the TPS tab and all you do is select the simulate idle switch from TPS box and that should solve your idle problems your having. If not then its time to get on Rock Auto like Steve suggested and order a IAC.

The car feels sluggish because you need to get your MAF, fuel, & timing sliders where they need to be which is what we're going to do in the next few days. I'm not trying to be lazy or dip out of helping you but I'm going to give you a link to ALL the info you'll need to setup dsmlink. Since you are running V2 of dsmlink I suggest downloading the V3 software which is free from the dsmlink website. It's a lot more user friendly and easier to understand whats going on with your car. (atleast I think so) Heres the link to download the V3 software ECMTuning, Inc. Just select the right file depending on what OS your using.

After completing the download and its the first time running the application, pull up the "Configure Connection" box in the dsmlink Menu, set your device type and you should be able to connect like you did before. First you need to make sure that in your logs when you see your throttle position shows 0% & 100% you really are mashing the gas or letting it idle. A lot of times your TPS is off a bit and you need to compensate for the error, use this to set it up. v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki] Make sure you read the V2 users note on there giving you additional info to setting it up!

If you still have time to install that WB o2 after doing all that setting up now is the time to do it. This way you can properly calibrate your MAF using your WB since you don't have V3. (Of course if you have any questions about installing the WB post them up, this is just assuming you get it installed and logging in link) Theres some math involved so pull out that old calculator or steal one from the kids... maftcalibrationbywbo2 [ECMTuning - wiki]

Since you have those Evo injectors laying around nows the time to install them, it should only take about an hour so not too long. Once installed you need to compensate for the extra fuel going to the motor in dsmlink. To do it go to your "Fuel" tab and at the bottom you'll see Global & Deadtime numbers. I already did the math for your Global settings on those Evo 510cc injectors but if your curious here's the equation you'd use to find it. fuelsettingshelp [ECMTuning - wiki] Your global correction would be -13% and your deadtime at 0 since your injectors aren't much bigger than stock. Read through these two links in WIKI to get a quick AFR adjustment so your in the ballpark. fueltrimupdatepoints [ECMTuning - wiki] & quickieafsetup [ECMTuning - wiki]

When I first started using dsmlink I had hoped someone would walk me through it holding my hand but if that had happened I'd still be looking at one of my logs like WTF I'll give you the tools to do it and if you've got any questions feel free ask. Your learning curve is going to sky rocket after all this and you'll be able to say that YOU got your car running...

On a side note, every change you make in dsmlink you've got to save to the ECU. After you make the change you click the "Save To ECU" button in the bottom right of the window... JUST IN CASE YOU DIDN'T KNOW!

 

[whiteboyz]

Yeah the simulate TPS did not fix my idle problem. BUT i will be getting one very soon.

I have downloaded the V3 from ecmtuning's site already, and when im inside i learnd even though i am using V3 software i cant use the 2G v3 option and actually have to use the v2 one .

I have been reading alot on the wiki for awhile now. To be honest the mathmatical stuff makes my head spin. My 7yr old is better in math then I am. So THANK YOU VERY MUCH. for figuring out the global and deadtime for me.

I did not get the time i wanted to today to get that WB and the other log in. I am bringing my oldest to camp tomorrow. she has a camping trip with her GirlScout troop over the weekend sooooo hehe. And I will be adding the WB into Link via pin 75 for the rear O2 sensor tomorrow.

I am very excited about learning the whole log'n and tuning process. This way i wont have to worry about getting into a pickle and also so I don't have to ask soooo many questions . plus the satisfactory of knowing how to do it.

I will read up on the maf calibration tonight and see if i can make heads or tails of it.

Gofer i would like to thank you for helping me out and the continues help that you are willing to give.

 

[Calan]

Yeah the simulate TPS did not fix my idle problem. BUT i will be getting one very soon.

Over the last few posts, you have juxtaposed this a bit. Just to clarify for future readers...

What you are simulating is the IPS (Idle Position Switch) from the TPS signal. Basically the ECU uses the throttle position sensor (TPS) to guess when the throttle is closed, and then simulates the IPS (Idle Position Switch) from that.

So you are simulating the IPS...not the TPS.

***********

Before getting too carried away with tuning, get everything adjusted and set up first. ECMLink gives you everything you need to calibrate the TPS, make sure the ICS values are correct (through BISS adjustment), verify (or simulate) the idle switch, check that all cylinders are firing, verify the O2 sensor is cycling, make sure open/closed loop is functioning properly, etc. Do all of this preliminary stuff first, along with verifying that your base timing is 5* BTDC wih both a timing light and link.

Then... start calibrating your MAF and tuning the car.

 

[jeffo]

You are correct about setting the AFPR with the vacuum hosed removed but plugging the vacuum line has no affect on setting the fuel pressure.

Well, it does have an affect if the car stalls because of the huge vacuum leak. THAT is why you should plug the vacuum line while you check the pressure. Its hard to check/set base fuel pressure when the car is stumbling, barely idling, or stalls.

 

[whiteboyz]

Ok, so here are 2 logs with what gofer told me to add. any input on them would be great. hopefully i did them correct. Gofer i have a new throttle body coming with the TPS and IAC. so my idle problem should go away.