2G Room Lamp Draw - Findings

[XiKeiyaZI]

Alright, so I've been fighting this for a few days now.

I've encountered a draw that will drain a fully charged brand new battery overnight. That is less than 12 hours per my testing. After checking all bay connections, I pulled the IOD (Radio/Room Lamp) fuse and found that the draw went away. I am watching the "draw" using the method in which you disconnect the negative cable of the battery, place a test light between it and the negative post, and check for the light. The light is extremely bright indicating a heavy draw.

Wanting to narrow it down further, I separated the 10amp fuses and placed them in, testing, one at a time. It is the Room Lamp fuse. This made me a bit sad as I was aware this covered many things. So I went in the car and started pulling fuses, checking wiring, everything. My findings?

Rheostat was spliced into - Removed the splice. No other splices.
Gauge Cluster backlights don't work
Keyhole illumination ring doesn't work
Sunroof doesn't work
Warning lights on dash DO work
Radio Works
Rear View Mirror lights work
Vanity Mirror lights do not work

I have pulled the ETACS and discovered that the draw vanishes, however, there are several things that run off of the ETACS so I can't be sure if it's the ETACS itself or something else. I opened the ETACS and everything looks absolutely brand new. No corrosion. No leaking Caps. Nothing.

Any other suggestions?

Edit : I placed the ETACS back in - First I plugged up the white plug that goes on the side - no draw. When I place the ETACS back in place where it connects to the fuse box panel - the draw returns. This rules out the ETACS, correct?

Edit 2 : Was incorrect on the 'flow.' I unplugged the small plug on the side of the ETACS and placed the ETACS back on the back of the fuse panel - Draw returns. So, bad ETACS?

The "Green" Circle is the connection I refer to as the "Side" plug. Holding the ETACS in my hand and plugging this in does not produce a Draw.

The "Red" Circle indicates the connection that plugs into the back of the Fuse Panel. With the "Side Plug" either plugged in or not, this brings up my battery draw.

So, Bad ETACS or not?

Edit : I found a good, working ETACS from another car. Plugged it up - Same issue. Still showing a draw via the test light when it is plugged into the back of the fuse panel.

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[eclipsegsx1736]

Just for kicks, try unplugging the ECU and see if that affects the draw. The battery backup power pin for the ECU goes thru the "door/lamp" fuse. I'm not sure if it makes its way through the ETACS at some point but it's worth a try.

This is certainly where a factory service manual would come in handy.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Can't hurt to try at all, unless it -is- the ECU which at that point I'd be a little upset.

I haven't been able to find a list of everything that runs through the ETACS or their locations but it's certainly something in line with it.

Thought I had resolved it but turned out I was wrong. Don't think I read the multimeter right the first time. With all fuses unplugged, radio out, electric seat disconnected, amp unplugged, ecu unplugged, ETACS in, and all Relays still in place, I am still pulling a huge draw.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

"Fixed" the Talons' battery draw. It -was- a bad door lock mechanism. Pulled the Door Lock fuse, draw fell from 37.6a to 1.2a With everything plugged back up (minus the fuse) my total draw is about 2.1a and we have a tolerance of somewhere around 5.0a if I recall correctly. Either way, a drop to where it is from 37.6a is great!

I had initially diagnosed it last night, but being sleep deprived, hounded by a migraine, and freezing, I misread my multi-meter and carried on thinking I had made a mistake. Luckily it was not the ETACS or something more complicated but now I have to look forward to finding out why, exactly, my locks are causing the draw. Could be a bad actuator. Could be a bad switch. In any case, back forwards towards getting her on the road! Wanted to make sure this was updated so anyone searching for the same issue might find some assistance. I know that 90% of the threads here go unanswered when it comes to the Room Lamp fuse.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Returning to Unsolved status. Today I went out to check everything - measured my draw.. 64ma draw. -.- Charged the battery and checked at 12v. Within 2 hours it's at 0.52v. Pull the Room Lamp fuse, 0ma draw. Pulled every fuse/Relay imaginable, same 64ma draw. I've tried 2 different ETACS. Removed steering column plugs. Unhooked my fuel pump. Checked speakers. I have no idea what's going on.

About to burn this damn thing.

 

[91-GS]

Since it's the interior lighting circuit that's causing the issue try unplugging the "door closed" switches and the "hatch closed" switch, see if that gets you anywhere. It could be that a switch is "leaking" (just barelly closing the circuit), not enough to light up the interior bulbs, but enough to cause the draw.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Since it's the interior lighting circuit that's causing the issue try unplugging the "door closed" switches and the "hatch closed" switch, see if that gets you anywhere. It could be that a switch is "leaking" (just barelly closing the circuit), not enough to light up the interior bulbs, but enough to cause the draw.

It's a hell of a draw for a leak, but I found it!

It was a combination of both the door lock circuit and a door closed switch. Passenger to be exact. Went ahead and disconnected them and it's holding a charge perfect now. My Windows, vanity mirror lights, and sunroof are all working now as well.

Only thing I'm left with now is that my HVAC and gauge lights aren't working. I tried Jumping the Black/yellow with the Black wire on the Dimmer switch and it's a no go. Fuse is good. Hrm. Any input for this one?

 

[gofer]

Only thing I'm left with now is that my HVAC and gauge lights aren't working. I tried Jumping the Black/yellow with the Black wire on the Dimmer switch and it's a no go. Fuse is good. Hrm. Any input for this one?

In every case I've troubleshot this (gauges, buttons, radio and HVAC aren't illuminating/working) neither do your running lights, headlights and taillights. Your headlights, blinkers and brake lights will work but I don't suggest driving at night because your running tails won't.

The fuse on this circuit is labeled "Tail Lamps" and located in the box under the hood, it's a blue 15A. I recommend using the same method as you were before measuring the current draw and unplug every bulb on the circuit, along with the radio, and see what you find.

Typically it's a shorted bulb blowing that fuse or a exposed wire shorting to the chassis in that rat nest behind your radio. (Not knocking your cars wiring harness cleanliness, just pointing out the fact that Mitsu did a sub-par job on the harness behind the radio, it's a mess on EVERY DSM)

 

[91-GS]

Glad you got the draw fixed.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

In every case I've troubleshot this (gauges, buttons, radio and HVAC aren't illuminating/working) neither do your running lights, headlights and taillights. Your headlights, blinkers and brake lights will work but I don't suggest driving at night because your running tails won't.

The fuse on this circuit is labeled "Tail Lamps" and located in the box under the hood, it's a blue 15A. I recommend using the same method as you were before measuring the current draw and unplug every bulb on the circuit, along with the radio, and see what you find.

Typically it's a shorted bulb blowing that fuse or a exposed wire shorting to the chassis in that rat nest behind your radio. (Not knocking your cars wiring harness cleanliness, just pointing out the fact that Mitsu did a sub-par job on the harness behind the radio, it's a mess on EVERY DSM)

How dare you?!

Headlights and all other items function but I haven't thought to check the running lights. I'll do that. But as you said, HVAC and Gauges are not illuminating at all. There are quite a few factory relays and such behind the radio. It's pretty sad but luckily easy to get to compared to anything truly behind the dash. I'll take a peek at the fuse when the sun comes up and see what I can locate. Hopefully it's a simply fuse.

Glad you got the draw fixed.

Me to. It was driving me insane.

 

[steve]

What was your final parasitic current draw?

Some sited list 75ma as a high threshold others as low as 35ma. I forget what I've measured for just the ECU's in sleep mode but it's pretty low.

At 30ma a typical good car battery should go weeks before the drain is a problem. You seeing 64ma and dying in 2 hours sounds funny.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Well it fluctuated. It had to be that sensor for the door. It would stay around 64ma but spike to 300+ and fault out my Multimeter. Upon removing it, it has settled around 37ma and held a charge all night - something it wouldn't do before hand. The reports of 75ma leaves me a little curious as every time I tested it when it would fall into a bad charge it was sitting at 64ma...then again Electrical is not my strong suite so perhaps I just wasn't seeing the rest of the draw somehow. :shrug: =/

Also figured out the gauges/HVAC. Pulled the relay under the hood for the reverse lamps and tested it - was bad. Replaced it and works perfect now. I'll remove the Jumper wire for the dimmer and see if that works now as well.