Replacement of Green LED in AC switch

[Galaxy]

I am wondering why I can't seem to get the On/off indicator LED on the end of the board in the AC switch to work after replacing the stock bulb in the middle with an LED and resistor.Does it need the full 12V to get to it and I have limited it to only 3V and the resistor for that LED is further killing voltage? Assuming that was it I removed the stock resistor on the board and it fried the new led so I replaced it but now I need a different value resistor between 330 ohm and the stock one...just not sure what value.Since the switch has to be disassembled to get the board out,I cant put it in the car to test voltage...I'm not sure how to find out what value I need.I know there are some people here that would have an idea and I'm aware there's a 13 page thread on blue lights but I feel most people overlook that thread that have already replied and those are the people that would know.Not to mention theres nothing in all 13 pages that deals with that green LED other than someone sayin "don't even try".

Anyone have any ideas about that?

 

[DSMhelex]

what i did was just snip the wire on the bulb in the middle and tap into a couple wires right above it in the middle vents. I didnt use the same wire.
While your post is kinda hard for me to follow... i would recommend putting the resistor for the led right before the led, so its only altering that led. If its still not working, can you replace the AC light with an LED?

 

[Galaxy]

Wow,your post is kinda hard for me to follow as well.All I'm talking about really, is the circuit board inside the AC switch....which has no wires.

The bulb that twists out of the center of the board lights the snowflake,and that has been replaced with an LED with a resistor on the positive leg of the LED.

The green LED on the end of the board that only lights when the switch is pushed in is what I'm trying to change.Since its already an LED and has a resistor inline on the board,I thought it would be a simple swap of the leds....not so.Apparently I have dropped the voltage below what that green led needs to light by putting the other LED and resistor in there...the switch still works.So....thinking that I dropped the voltage to what it needed to be already I took the resistor off the board but then it blew the LED so what the hell is goin on in there?

I'll try to find what the value of the stock resistor is if anyone has a link to resistor band color codes...maybe then I'll have more info on what I might need.

Both the stock green LED and the blue one I'm replacing it with have the same intensity on 3V.

 

[57TrimGST]

Your post is alittle hard to read..

 

[Galaxy]

Slow down reading it then,I can't put that into any simpler terms.If you have no knowledge of the inside of the switch I could see where it may be hard to understand but really...re-read that slower and think as you do it,its not hard.

 

[selmerguy]

if i understand you, you have tried the led with the stock resistor and another resistor, and instead of removeing the extra resistor you took the stock one off the board and fried the led. why not just swap the led and only use the stock resistor on the board?

 

[Defiant]

Is that a bulb, or just a shutter over a bulb? Is it a bi-directional LED? I've never cracked open an AC switch to find out. If you can, get us some pics.

 

[Galaxy]

Selmerguy,the stock resistor on the board is after the big LED with the 330 ohm,thats why I thought maybe the voltage had been dropped already to a useable level and took the stock resistor out.Perhaps when the switch is on it ends up contacting a 12V source on the board but if it did...it should work like it always did.I know I overlooked something stupid but I just can't figure out what it is.

I'll see what I can do to get some pics in here but I have a link to some others...

http://webpages.charter.net/jasonk/AC Hvac.htm

What he did was solder the led straight to the board and put the resistor inline on the harness to the switch,if I did that I'm thinking I would still have the same problem of the stock resistor killing voltage to the green LED and it not lighting.

Can anyone see a reason that switch would need the full 12V ? Other than the light bulb that USED to be in it,I can't see one.If I put the resistor inline on the harness and took all resistors out of the switch,that should allow everything a nice 3V so I may just try that if I can't come up with anything else.I wish the guy that wrote that would've said whether or not his green led still worked.

 

[Defiant]

So, is there one LED to start with? If so, it's bi-directional and changes from orange to green depending on which way the power's going through it. I don't know how he'd replace that with one LED.
The Avenger AC switch is nearly the same, but doesn't have the two-positions that the Talon does. I wonder if that's the kind he was messing with.

 

[Galaxy]

Ahhhh,I'm using the 2G switch,which is just like the Avenger as it has only one led in the switch already..that was green. Not sure about how to do the 1G switch yet but I DID figure out how to get the on indicator led to work.I put a resistor on the positive leg of that LED as well and took the stock resistor off the board.

Ac switch looks awesome..just gotta pump up the brightness on the HVAC controls to match it.