2G Removing intake manifold

[Yoshida445]

Im prepping to remove the head on my 2g but im currently stuck as I need to remove the intake manifold off and can’t figure how to remove the bottom bolts, I already have the top bolts off just need the bottom ones without lifting the car as I know you can take it off when the car is not lifted.

 

[curt-s]

Remove battery, remove support bracket under manifold, and get your arm under there. There's no real trick, just requires patience and pain tolerance

 

[Yoshida445]

Remove battery, remove support bracket under manifold, and get your arm under there. There's no real trick, just requires patience and pain tolerance

Yeah because I have the bracket and battery removed but can’t seem to get any tool in that space

 

[jdxnc]

I actually prefer to remove the head WITH the intake manifold attached.

 

[Yoshida445]

I actually prefer to remove the head WITH the intake manifold attached.

Yea it seems like thats what i might have to do, albeit it might be a little bit more heavy

 

[jdxnc]

Yea it seems like thats what i might have to do, albeit it might be a little bit more heavy

While it adds like 10lbs, it makes a nice handle to grab on.

 

[Yoshida445]

While it adds like 10lbs, it makes a nice handle to grab on.

Haha thats for sure but im not sure what would be best, if I leave it in and have it as a handle or try and take it off and have it a little bit lighter

 

[curt-s]

Yeah because I have the bracket and battery removed but can’t seem to get any tool in that space

I install and remove heads without the IM on mostly because 1) I'm doing it solo and the IM creates too much of a weight imbalance as I'm leaning over the bumper, 2) I'm getting old and my back can't do the combo with precision I need and, finally, 3) I don't want to risk scraping the deck against an ARP stud.

I've always put on and taken off 1G and the Cyclone manifolds with the head still on. I haven't done a 2G mani, but there's no way that it's worse than a Cyclone when getting those bottom bolts.

I use an open ended combination wrench, just not the ratcheting side. I think it was more of a PITA to deal with the support bracket than the manifold itself.

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Yes, the Haynes comes out because I can never remember the torque sequence for the head

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What is the primary problem that you're experiencing? It's a bit of a reach but it's entirely doable. The only caveat is physical condition, which can definitely prevent a reach. Some people I know can't get under there and reach that far due to arm size (or mid section), so they're kind of stuck doing both as a pair.
But, hey, everyone is different. I don't like to pull both just because the weight balance is off and I'll blow out my lower back if I try to tackle it as a set. I never should have sold my back extension equipment

 

[Yoshida445]

I install and remove heads without the IM on mostly because 1) I'm doing it solo and the IM creates too much of a weight imbalance as I'm leaning over the bumper, 2) I'm getting old and my back can't do the combo with precision I need and, finally, 3) I don't want to risk scraping the deck against an ARP stud.

I've always put on and taken off 1G and the Cyclone manifolds with the head still on. I haven't done a 2G mani, but there's no way that it's worse than a Cyclone when getting those bottom bolts.

I use an open ended combination wrench, just not the ratcheting side. I think it was more of a PITA to deal with the support bracket than the manifold itself.

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Yes, the Haynes comes out because I can never remember the torque sequence for the head

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

What is the primary problem that you're experiencing? It's a bit of a reach but it's entirely doable. The only caveat is physical condition, which can definitely prevent a reach. Some people I know can't get under there and reach that far due to arm size (or mid section), so they're kind of stuck doing both as a pair.
But, hey, everyone is different. I don't like to pull both just because the weight balance is off and I'll blow out my lower back if I try to tackle it as a set. I never should have sold my back extension equipment

Yeah im in the same predicament as i don’t have the sufficient equipment to do it. I wanted to remove the head to resurface it and add arp head studs so I was trying to see how to do it while removing the IM

 

[curt-s]

You don't need special equipment to remove the intake manifold. One open-ended wrench/combination wrench is literally all you need, provided everything else has been removed first (fuel rail, injectors, all vac hoses, blah blah blah)
If you reach under the manifold from the battery side, can you touch the far bolt? If the issue is a physical limitation then, yes, you'll probably have to remove head and IM both at the same time. Get a buddy to help on the other side of it.

 

[Yoshida445]

You don't need special equipment to remove the intake manifold. One open-ended wrench/combination wrench is literally all you need, provided everything else has been removed first (fuel rail, injectors, all vac hoses, blah blah blah)
If you reach under the manifold from the battery side, can you touch the far bolt? If the issue is a physical limitation then, yes, you'll probably have to remove head and IM both at the same time. Get a buddy to help on the other side of it.

Im not sure since I gave up on it for a bit cause I couldn’t figure it out but I will definitely try and figure it out

 

[DSMPT]

If removing the head is what you want to do, then like Jason said that removing it with the intake manifold on would be much easier. Remove the hood and use a cherry picker to lift if you have it. If you don't have a cherry picker, ask someone to help when remove the head or remove the cams to make it lighter.

If you want to remove the intake manifold anyways before removing the head but can't reach some bolts, lift the car and remove the driver's side axle and try to reach from the bottom of the car.
Or remove the starter and the water pipe, it would be much easier.

 

[Yoshida445]

If removing the head is what you want to do, then like Jason said that removing it with the intake manifold on would be much easier. Remove the hood and use a cherry picker to lift if you have it. If you don't have a cherry picker, ask someone to help when remove the head or remove the cams to make it lighter.

If you want to remove the intake manifold anyways before removing the head but can't reach some bolts, lift the car and remove the driver's side axle and try to reach from the bottom of the car.
Or remove the starter and the water pipe, it would be much easier.

If I remove the head with the Intake still on it would I have to remove it when its out because of the arp head studs?

 

[curt-s]

Don't worry, head studs have nothing to do with the IM. I just mentioned the two because putting on a head with an intake manifold attached to it can become a labourous and tricky thing (depending on experience), especially if you're doing it solo, if the studs are already in the block. Weight, balance, and trying not to hit the deck of the head with the top of the studs..

If you've not done this before, which it doesn't sound like you have, I'd serious suggest you have a helper hold the other side. You'll definitely have to remove the IM if you're planning on getting the head decked.

Which brings me to the question, what isthe reason why you want to resurface just the head if the two are already mated? I know this is going off topic from your original question but I'm trying to understand the extent of what's going on.

 

[chrysler kid]

take off the intercooler piping and lay chest down on the valve cover, and reach both arms around the intake manifold. I think you can get atleast 2 middle bolts from the top with the fuel rail and coil removed