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Regular arp or L19?

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gsxxer

10+ Year Contributor
35
0
Feb 15, 2011
Seneca, Illinois
I am building a fresh 6 bolt for my 2g and plan on going for 500+ hp, would the regular arp headstuds be fine or should I opt for the L19's? This isn't my first 500 hp car but it's my first boosted one...
 
I am building a fresh 6 bolt for my 2g and plan on going for 500+ hp, would the regular arp headstuds be fine or should I opt for the L19's? This isn't my first 500 hp car but it's my first boosted one...
What CR pistons, what turbo, and how much boost?
 
9.1 Ross pistons, probably a 3052 or a blouch, and really I'm not sure how much boost I'll have to run to achieve my goals. I'm still green on this idea, I plan on running a 14b with the fresh motor so I can learn to tune. Any information will be helpful, on any amount of boost.

Ok after reading the above links the question now is a1 or L19.
 
My official answer is that you'll be fine with regular 12mm ARPs up to around 60-65 lbs/min airflow. Which is usually around 600-650 base HP. But being that you're unsure of the turbo/boost/airflow that you're engine will be recieving, we can't narrow it down any further for you.

Regarding A1 and L19 studs; either one will work. They are the same material and will perform the same. Buy whichever is cheaper.
 
I would go with the better head studs now , because dsm'ers always like to upgrade and the added strength they will provide you with a peace of mine.
 
The normal arp's will be just fine for this application. L19's are relatively new, think of all the guys that made this kind of power and more before they were even released. The key is to have a good tune with no detonation.
 
I run ARP L19's. No issues at all with them. The only real reason I got them is a friend sold them to me for $100 bnib. So it was a no brainier.

Also, the nuts on the L19's are differnet than the standard ARP's. They have 'L19' stamped into them.
 
If your only going for 500 whp keep your stock head bolts.6 bolt studs are very strong and reusable.Regular arp's are a waste of money for a six bolt.If your planning above 500hp go with the l19's.
 
Thank you for all the feedback! I will probably end up with the L19's, just to be on the safe side of my ocd i know i have when i build motors :)
 
If your only going for 500 whp keep your stock head bolts.6 bolt studs are very strong and reusable.Regular arp's are a waste of money for a six bolt.If your planning above 500hp go with the l19's.

what a load of crap.stock mitsu bolts are good for 500? haha i was pushing around 330awhp n was lifting my head on those stock head bolts. arps are the way to go, if you compare a stock head stud to a arp, youl notice how much thicker the arp is
 
disregard that A1 headstud thread I made last year. I'm still using them, and I took my head off and put it back on this week. Headstuds are perfect. I'll continue using A1's forever.

I lifted the head on regular ARP's at 550whp.
 
If your only going for 500 whp keep your stock head bolts.6 bolt studs are very strong and reusable.Regular arp's are a waste of money for a six bolt.If your planning above 500hp go with the l19's.

Wrong. At 500whp he will either lift the head or blow the head gasket.
And stock bolts are not reuseable, they are TTY, torque to yield, one time use only
 
Wrong. At 500whp he will either lift the head or blow the head gasket.<br />
And stock bolts are not reuseable, they are TTY, torque to yield, one time use only
<br />
7-bolt bolts are TTY, but 6-bolt bolts are not.
I stand corrected, although I would not run stock bolts for 500whp.
 
Big debate over this i see.It may be's a little high when i stated 1g head bolts will hold at 500whp.The truth is that regular arp 6 bolt studs are not much or any stronger than the stockers.The point i was trying to get at is when upgrading,go with the l19s. To anyone lifting ther head bolts at 26 psi on a 16g you should get someone else to build your engine.Not trying to start a fight but my last car i was running 30 psi daily on a pte 3231 bb with a stock 210000km 6 bolt with no
issues.
 
The truth is that regular arp 6 bolt studs are not much or any stronger than the stockers.
But there's far more to it than material strength. I have no clue what material the stock head bolts are made of, so I cannot comment on a strength comparison. I do know the ARP studs are .030" larger in diamete, but that won't account for much of any difference in strength. The most important difference is the difference between a bolt and a stud. The factory bolts are being twisted while being torqued. This creates two forces fighting against a proper torque reading - friction at the threads and twisting of the shank of the bolt. With head studs, the studs is installed into the block in a relaxed state. And when the nut is torqued, there's only one force to overcome (friction at the threads). A stud and nut will almost always generate a more accurate clamp load for this reason. And that alone is worth the $80 to get studs over bolts, even if they are of the same strength (which we don't know for sure).
 
L19 headstuds are being discontinued. The material they are made of cause those head studs to have a shelf life. Are is coming out with a set called tool steel head studs.
 
L19 headstuds are being discontinued. The material they are made of cause those head studs to have a shelf life. Are is coming out with a set called tool steel head studs.
I too would like a link to this info.

L19/H11 is tool steel. And while it is easily subject to contamination and stress corrosion, I've never heard of a shelf life for this material.
 
L19 headstuds are being discontinued. The material they are made of cause those head studs to have a shelf life. Are is coming out with a set called tool steel head studs.

Yes please. I'm ordering new studs today and they were going to be L19's.

And in my experience the ARP's do lift for some at over 30psi. I know mine do...
 
And in my experience the ARP's do lift for some at over 30psi. I know mine do...
There's never an accurate "PSI" limit for any part, because "PSI" doesn't take into account compressor size. Cylinder pressure determines whether a studs will stay clamped or fatigue. And cylinder pressure can be more acccurately determined from engine compression ratio and overall airflow (mass flow).
 
There's never an accurate "PSI" limit for any part, because "PSI" doesn't take into account compressor size. Cylinder pressure determines whether a studs will stay clamped or fatigue. And cylinder pressure can be more acccurately determined from engine compression ratio and overall airflow (mass flow).

True, and when you ad detonation you never really know what's going to happen. I suppose it would be more accurate to say over 500awhp things can start to let go.

I just spoke with ARP and they said they will not be discontinuing the L19's but they do have a custom headstud for the 4g63. The only problem with the L19's is they are susceptible to moisture but once they are in the engine there are no problems.

This is the only place I know that sells them, enjoy.
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=24061&cat=1741&page=1
 
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