Street Build Red5.

[miliman13]

^ It is.

 

[lasershark]

Dude! Great work that thing is becoming a beauty!

 

[miliman13]

I had videos/pics ect... In my old phone which i planned on using to update this thread.
But things happen...

Hard to recall everything thats happened since.

But i swicthed over to oem rear end suspension to account for my use of the trailer...

And i played a little with links antilag settings... No flames but ehh.

Been doing some launches on dirt/grass/soil to prevent drive train damage.

Still waiting to find an awd dyno before i can move past my current wall; 8 pounds , 10 degresss ~ 5k. 230hp calculated by link.


Retorqued the head to 90ftlbs
And installed new ngks 7s
Added cacth can,
and reflective heat tape to lower aits.
To make power but can no longed safely street tune since im limited on location.

Cylinder 2 is now on wacth...

And its usually a dsm thats the metal scrap on a trailer and not the other way around.

Oh yeah almost forgot.
I bought a spal paddle fan puller.. The highest cfm rating period in a 13inch configuration..
Car idles at 190/197f
And weirdly enough 160f at 60mph with all the duct , ratio, aux coolers...

Currently trying to diagnose a non working cruise control..

 

[chrysler kid]

Great build, I was yelling at you the first 5 pages to move and get a garage to work in but it looks like Youve done it already

So ive worked on Hondas all the time. Integra guys can run the half radiator, but those are aluminum block with sleeved coolant surround sleeves, so they dissipate heat better

So it's time to ditch that $28 eBay dual core civic radiator (yes I paid $28 shipped for mine). They make them in a triple core now and that may be more adequate.

 

[miliman13]

Used a laser/1g oem rad along with everything else.
See pics above

 

[buhay6]

I had over heating problems after installing slim fans and a punishment FMIC, went back to stock fans haven't had a problem since. Awesome build man!

 

[chrysler kid]

Used a laser/1g oem rad along with everything else.
See pics above

? The only engine bay pic is the one from last year. It's clearly an eBay civic radiator?

 

[boostdawd]

? The only engine bay pic is the one from last year. It's clearly an eBay civic radiator?

View attachment 531760 View attachment 531761

7th pic does show a 1g black radiator. Looks good man!

 

[miliman13]

Thank you gezzzzzz ......

I had over heating problems after installing slim fans and a punishment FMIC, went back to stock fans haven't had a problem since. Awesome build man!

I really appreciate it brother thank you.

7th pic does show a 1g black radiator. Looks good man!

 

[miliman13]

WOW its been 7 years..........

I got busy trying to finish my bachelors and a home really eats your time too. Admittedly I did lose some interest in the car, however I vowed never to part with her and so she sat for years in my garage. I last power slid across campus on a rainy day (6 yrs ago) and then I parked her, and she never turned back on.
Thanks to some of you I was able to get her breathing again, a bad coil pack that did register spark. and a loose ground were the culprit.


I noticed my WB read lean even though my plugs were black and rich. also noticed a few signals were not behaving as usual so I began doing some testing on a few sensors and concluded my TP, WB & MAP had all failed. (I suspect from the vibrations of the Poly Engine mounts). Fortunately, I had a logged saved of when I dyno tuned the car back when she made 530HP/500Ft-lb @ 6K-rpm, I was able to use this as a base line for determining what signals were off.

I'm taking my time with her before I bother driving.

1) Comparison of the old Vs new TPS from 0-100% Throttle

2) Comparison of the old Vs new MAP @ same RPM , both read the same vac

Initially my MAP measured a positive 20 value which would explain why it was running so rich and possibly why WB failed.
Before I ever drive and boost, I wanted to verify the measured pressure values from the New Ebay MAP, match the gauge attached to inlet of MAP line

for a cheap 10$ Ebay MAP this 4-Bar is exact at the upper and lower ranges (Boost & normal idle vac) as the OMNI 4-Bar, however at 0 RPM its slightly off and has some error for an initial range or deadband, I noticed the error is non-linear or non-proportional for this small range usually from 0-10 psi (vac was not tested).

While it is too early to say I may consider designing a controller that adjust this error for this small range, so I don't have to do any editing in my VE tables.
Why? well I can buy 10 of these for the price of 1, Omni which I'm sure by now many of us have ran across the abundant threads discussing the reliability of the sensor.

3) Comparison of the old Vs new WB using the simple shop towel and ether test.

here we see rag on - rag off


I'm really looking forward to getting her back to 100% and who knows maybe I'll come up with some neat ideas I've learned along the way in my research to help modernize and make the old girl more fun than ever.


MORE UPDATES COMING !!

 

[miliman13]

Slowly I’m getting her back up , I’m mostly focused on the things I can diagnose with the engine Not running . Years ago I mentioned that cylinder 2 -spark plug was on watch due to it being wet.

And I did a 2nd oil change since getting her to idle after years of no start. But noticed this time there was more of a gas ️ smell in the oil and it was runnier than the oil that it sat with for years

Additionally I could tell it was still running rich even after verifying that the MAP sensor was functioning correctly.

And I noticed my fuel pressure sensor would sometimes report 44psi and other times it would report 88 at idle.

So I installed a fuel pressure gauge that came with a nice fitting , so I would not have to try and jam it behind the Intake , were most of us have the FPR.

I verified it was indeed measuring 80psi , so I lowered down to 40psi : I’m aware what it should be.

I also ordered a new fuel pressure sensor to replace the one that sometimes reads incorrectly.

I understand my new plugs are black since the car has been running very rich .

Yet noticed a slight wetness on cylinder 2

So I decided to manually rotate the crank to get a better view of my cylinder and turned the fuel pump back on using Link

And I noticed pooling inside the cylinder

So I concluded that injector 2 is stuck open
I have already ordered an injector pulse controller and some Berrymans cleaner to clean and do a volumetric test of all my injectors .

But since I am inexperience with this type of failure I’m unsure yet if this can be resolved , I assume an injector is just a normally closed solenoid.

Hopefully it’s just stuck due to contamination and not so much a failure on the electro magnetics, I doubt I can buy a single injector, perhaps FIC offers solutions?

She is starting to clean up nicely, after removing all the squirrel poo and all the other debris they imported into the car.

Unfortunately my passenger airbag dash cover has begun to peel off

 

[MindBlowin03]

You should definitely look into the stainless AEM 5 bar map sensor. They won't leave you stranded like a knock off or Omni one.

 

[CrackedDSM]

One day we honestly need to have a Florida DSM meet. Just have to figure out where to host it. Would be hilarious to do it in front of a scrap yard or junk yard.

 

[miliman13]

You should definitely look into the stainless AEM 5 bar map sensor. They won't leave you stranded like a knock off or Omni one.

I did plan on making the switch, but I was concerned due to the possible resolution issues that comes with a wider range on some sensors , also the price.

Since I’m just starting to get her going again , the 10$ MAP will work for diagnosing the cars other issues for now.

One day we honestly need to have a Florida DSM meet. Just have to figure out where to host it. Would be hilarious to do it in front of a scrap yard or junk yard.

This has always been difficult to do since most of these cars live on jack stands or under piles of leaves .

There’s what ; you and me in the whole state ?

In FL the number 1 killer of DSMs is always a new kid (baby). Can’t count the number of times I’ve seen it.

There’s no one around anymore.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I did plan on making the switch, but I was concerned due to the possible resolution issues that comes with a wider range on some sensors , also the price.

Since I’m just starting to get her going again , the 10$ MAP will work for diagnosing the cars other issues for now.



This has always been difficult to do since most of these cars live on jack stands or under piles of leaves .

There’s what ; you and me in the whole state ?

In FL the number 1 killer of DSMs is always a new kid (baby). Can’t count the number of times I’ve seen it.

There’s no one around anymore.

I suggest this one: 50psi - 3.5bar sensor
Zeitronix MAP sensors

 

[miliman13]

I was able to make some time between a graduate research proposal and an Ai & Modeling course, to flow test and clean the injectors, since I found that injector 2 is leaking under pressure.

I wanted to make this set up for as little possible. Compared the actual products for this that sell in the several hundreds

I used the same tank, I normally use to fill gear oils, I made sure to clean it well before use
this is to simulate the fuel pump

Apologies I do not know why the images came out so big !!

One of these injectors appear to have melted at the collar, weird!! no idea if it came like that or something caused it, at this point the markings came off and the injector number is unknown. But comparing images it doesn't appear to be injector 2.
Anyone seen this before? Maybe in the past when I nearly maxed out my injector Duty Cycle?


I did a continues test of each injector for 10 seconds, and the test was not perfect since there is some air leaks in the compressor hose/fittings and I'm sure there's several millisecond differences from when I started and ended the test, since it was done mostly manually, perhaps if more time becomes available i can do all 4 at the same time and make a controller that will execute the time perfectly, eliminating human error.

The Results for Injectors [1, 2, 3, 4] were [43, 41, 43, 40] ml in 10 seconds
The advertised specs for the setting used are " 50 pulses per about 1450ms, every pulse's, pulse width is about 7ms."

After some calculations I found that's between 240-248ml/min
and a deviation of [1.25, -0.75, 1.25, -1.75] ml or [3, -1.8, 3, -4.2] %
And according to sources for street cars a range between 2-5% is acceptable.
This is the test before using the ultrasonic cleaner, but simply using B-12 as the fuel for this test could have improved flow, it smells like jet fuel and paint thinner had a baby.

But with injector 4 being the most negative, that makes complete sense since out of all my cylinders number 4 showed the least carbon .. meaning it’s the leanest one.



Like always I once again lost an injector spacer, and did not want to spend $ on something i could print.
I figured one of you had made one, but didn't find it here. I did find a 4g63 spacer STL file online, but it must be for the Evo because the dimensions are unique.

So, I simply used a digital caliper and made some notes

Units are in mm.

The one print test trial came out identical in appearance to the original I used as a model.

The dimensions are actually tighter (on purpose) so it can grip the threads, so on install the spacers will be secure and not slide out, like they do with the standard ones.

I plan on doing another cleaning this time with each injector at 45 PSI, I intentionally stayed under 33 PSI in the video to make it easier to manage and reduce leaks. Hopefully no injector will leak while under pressure and no pulse.

 

[miliman13]

Wasted another day on the injectors, the fuel lines eventually got weak swelled and exploded ; good thing I wore goggles!

Had to source more B12

Did a reverse flow test since it’s recommended by those who do this often.

It did solve one of the injector
Now 3/4 are all at 43ml, unfortunately the last one is flowing slightly less now after the reverse test.

I used a digital microscope to peek inside the hats, and noticed the low flow one had some contaminants even after hours of cleaning.

Compared to one that flows fine

It’s evident, the difference.

Attempted to remove the hats but could not, so I used Q-tips and a pick and managed to clear the contaminants.

Hopefully, this will allow me to match the other 3.

 

[miliman13]

A lill unrelated

But I have a dream
That one day, one of my 4G engines will power my daily.

This is very early in the research and development stage of this pursuit.
And as far as I know no one has done it yet.

Once I scan the engine and trans and begin designing, I will make a dedicated thread to this concept.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Into the G35? No judgment, just clarifying.

 

[miliman13]

Into the G35? No judgment, just clarifying.

Yes sir the goal is to pair the 4g63 with a Cd009 for a few reasons

1) my G
2) 350z shells are becoming affordable
3) possibly to use the RS and GS DSM to make them 4g63 Rwd

Some may ask the logical question,
“why not do an Ls or 2J swap instead”

For a number of reasons
They are very expensive and i lack the experience also I already have plenty of 4g63s and this way I have the room for a compound turbo setup.

I like my G but cost for power regardless of main stream choice is to high for me to justify.

And lastly to simply provide options for those who want these drive trains for the Rwd 4g

 

[miliman13]

Small update, slowly addressing what I can for now to get her back on the streets

Did a coolant flush several times 7yrs worth of oxidation in the coolant took some time to clean out .

This is what clean water looks like once it cycles

Re-tucked engine harness now that every connection has been inspected
Adjusted CAS using a timing light
to 5* BTDC
And was able to drive her on ramps to address the rear differential bushings

They are terribly worn, and unfortunately I cannot get a hold of “dude” or anyone else on this site who used to supply the bushings, so something is better than nothing and I used 3M window weld saw a lot of good results from people using this as a temporary solution.

I hope I can source the bushings other wise I’ll be making my own in the summer.
When I do I will be dropping the rear frame to freshen it up and also undercoat the body and get rid of the surface rust.

Thought about getting rear sub frame bushings as well but unless someone has any advice, it looks like the rear sub frame bushing are in great condition, I say this because I know what bad ones look like , my fronts definitely don’t look anywhere this good.

 

[miliman13]

I know I'm going in the wrong order here. But 7 yrs ago when she ran, I tuned her myself after building the engine and I actually produced some nice results
I just found this image when looking for a CAD file of a 4g63 rotating assembly I did yrs ago for a design class using a space set of rods and pistons I had laying around.

535.5 HP @ 6080 RPM & 499.5 Ft-Lb @ 5340 at 25.5 Psi i contribute the Torque output to the 9.0:1 piston in this build

I was very impressed to see these results, specially my first time on a dyno. I Recall my street tune showed 270 Hp then next pass was 3xx then 4xx and finally the end result
Spend about 2.5-3hrs total time on the Dyno.

I can't actually make these results on the street, I get a lot of knock since I don't have a blower motor feeding the intercooler like when on the Dyno.
And it also took dumping loads of fuel and pulling timing to fight the knock. But she pulls so HARD !!

I purchased a Water/Meth Nozzle and Pump to keep cost down, I sourced only these two items and I will begin doing testing , I will make my own controller to use PWM to control the amount of injection, I don't want more power I just want to reduce intake temps, reduce knock and lean out a Lill were it needs it, reduce the injector duty cycle (maxing out my 750s) and have a shiny carbon free engine.
Plan on using Visual tools to smoothen out the Timing and Ve tables since I only ever adjusted the cells being used during tuning and not so much the neighboring cells.

 

[miliman13]

I spent the last 10 yrs being my own gardener, mechanic, electrician, HVAC, plumber, etc...
just to save money on home ownership, took 3 small vacations in that time, bought as many secondhand things as possible, no new electronics, clothing, etc... you guys get it, the point I am trying to make is, I saved all the money I could and paid of my house!!!

The cost of home insurance in Florida got to be more than I could make sense of and also the interest over the life of the loan, so I made the very scary decision to transfer my life savings to the mortgage company.

Haven't been this broke since I was in my early 20's, but no more debt or large monthly bills and if they really get rid of property taxes, ill actually get to own my own home.

Point is I finally get to give myself the things I've always wanted but choose to wait on - and I want more DSM's.

Now that I'm looking into possibly 1-3 more DSM shells in the near future.
I decided to do a full inventory of DSM parts that had been stored for the last 10 yrs

And also, because I'm trying to do a full restore on the interior/exterior and needed to find the trim to make the car whole.

"This parts pile would be much larger, if it weren't for those DSM'rs that steal from you"

Theres a full set of 6-bolt forged rods and 86 mm pistons
another set of 6-bolt forged rods
a set of Evo rods & pistons, 7-bolt rods & pistons (1-spun)
6 & 7-bolt cranks
2 six-bolt blocks (one measures right at 85mm other a lill above that)
1 seven-bolt block (measures 84.xx) - virgin block
1 complete machined 7-bolt head
1 complete 6-bolt head (minus valves)
2 oil pans (bolt unknown)
2 ofh and a what I suspect is a 7-bolt front case
a few things not mentioned.
And what I suspect is a 1g non-turbo trans and a turbo 2g trans

Theres probably enough parts here to build a full 7-bolt, which is fine, but I don't want to have to bore a virgin block to 86 mm when it's at 84.xx mm
I'm realistically never using the OEM rods & pistons anyway

Might be better off just looking for a set of lightly used 85mm pistons in the classifieds.

 

[miliman13]

This tool makes evacuating fluid easier, made it a spill free experience when removing the OEM brake MC.

I know you guys keep trying to steer me away from using EBay so much, but I think I got lucky , purchased a 3g brake MC for 40$ and when I checked the box , it was a NAPA item with a part number that came back as 150-170 when I asked for that item at the store.

I was fully prepared to make new brake lines for this upgrade, which is why I felt comfortable bending the lines by hand
.
I got a good top view of the bend for the u-bend line , I had to install the front line (top) first, then install MC to body, then the last line (side) , otherwise there was no way I could get things lined up, other than that ; it’s a perfect fit.

 

[Moonlight GSX]

You know, I didn't realize you were a fellow service member till now... I like what you've done here. I've subbed.