Quick question [Merged 5-7]

[Defiant]

That's likely a Hyundai cover, or at least they have that bend. People seem to run them that way, I don't know why they don't hacksaw the thing off at the elbow and do a bead.

 

[Ademy08]

on the seller's site there is a list of cars that it should fit,

This valve cover should fit most all of the 4G63 DOHC engines:

Mitsubishi Eclipse
Mitsubishi VR4
Eagle Talon
Plymouth Laser
Hyundai Sonata
Hyundai Elantra
1G
2G
DSM
& Many More

^ thats what it says, so if it is the hyundai VC would it still work on my 96 talon tsi awd?

 

[drivemusicnow]

Yes.

 

[TurboDSMer]

Over the summer i got my motor rebuilt 2g pistons 1g rods yada yada yada and i was wondering if by letting the car sit and not be started for a couple of months would be bad for the engine? Reason for not starting it is because i sold my turbo and don't have anything to put on it right now. The motor has about 1600 miles on it since it has been put back together.

 

[1gcrazy]

Over the summer i got my motor rebuilt 2g pistons 1g rods yada yada yada and i was wondering if by letting the car sit and not be started for a couple of months would be bad for the engine? Reason for not starting it is because i sold my turbo and don't have anything to put on it right now. The motor has about 1600 miles on it since it has been put back together.

Make sure you have good fluids in there. You dont wanna crack your block from lack of antifreeze.
Also, I'd go and start it up for just a few minutes every few weeks, regardless if you have a turbo or not. Just to get oil up inside the head and to keep things fresh, the oil will help combat rust and junk.
Also, make sure you dont leave any lights on and all the doors are shut or you'll be jumpin the car when it comes time to start it again. Lock your doors and everything. Some people have talked about putting the car up on jacks to deter rodents and to keep the tires somewhat true.
Also, get a car cover just to keep the dust off of your baby.
I've done all this but the jacks and my baby's sitting outside, sittin pretty.
Also, if you have fresh wires, try putting them in a plastic bag to keep them from starting the dry rot process...
All of this depends on how long the cars gonna sit.

I could have saved myself the time and said NO it wont hurt your engine as long as its been driven without any issues...

 

[BISHILVR]

You will be fine, most of them will sit for that long at some point in their lifetime. Look at how long a car sits on a dealers lot or at the factory without being started.

 

[TurboDSMer]

Thats what i was thinking as well, that it should fine for the winter.

I also forgot to mention that i drained the coolant and oil so there is none to very little still floating around in the motor and the car is kept in a garage away from the elements and the animals.

 

[BISHILVR]

You should'nt have drained the oil and coolant since those contain rust inhibitors and will keep rust off of the internal engine parts.

 

[Atuca]

i noticed after installing my door handle a wierd problem. Well actually it has happened twice now, and i think i know the answer, but still want to see what you guys say.

After installing my stereo, my car wouldn't shift with the clutch down. The car would die while in gear, which i had to turn the car off to shift it into first, if i didn't give it gas once i started the car, it would die. I unplugged my battary during the install of the stereo. After 10 mins of driving with during the car off and shifting into 1st than during car back on, it all of a sudden started working just fine, and i drove 100 miles home. Been 3 days of driving the car fine sense yesterday.

Than today, after installing my door handle last night, it did the same thing. I remember unplugging the battary to remove the door pannel ( i have power door locks) and when driving the car, it wouldn't shift into 1st gear and had problems shifting into 2nd, 34rd ect. unless the car was off. After 10 mins of driving the same way before, it was fine.

It felt like the clutch was not working at all, was impossible to shift unless the car was off, but when it was off, it shifted into all the gears just fine. I believe that unplugging the battary earased some "memory" of the clutch postition. Is this something that hapens with the car? I have a new clutch with only 600 miles on it, so i don't beleive it is that. and besides, the car works just fine now, but i want to know if there is something i can do to prevent it happening again if i find a reason to unplug the battary again.

-thanks in advanced

 

[FORMONTOYA]

There is nothing that connects the clutch system to the ECU or any electrical portion of the car, other than the cruise control switch, which would NOT cause it to go into gear. It's either a coincidence, or something is in the way of the clutch cables or shift-arms on the tranny.

 

[Atuca]

i thought that too, because it felt like i couldn't push it all the way down or soemthing, but i cheked, and there is nothing. I only replaced a door ahndle, i was no where near the clutch assembly. And what is weirder is it is just fine now. i turned the car off, let it sit, jumped back in and the cluth is just magicly fixed. it makes me head go WTF

oh well, hope i doesn't decide to act up in a few weeks, i hope it was just a fluke and never comes back again >.<

 

[FORMONTOYA]

The only time I have seen intermittent clutch engagement is when either a master or slave clutch cylinder is starting to go out. Just to be sure look at the slave first, pull the rubber boot back and if you see fluid, it's bad. For the master look behind the clutch pedal, you might have to pull the carpet back, if you see fluid drippage, it's bad. If one is bad it's best to replace both as they have about the same life expectancy.

 

[Atuca]

ok well the only leak i can see is what i found in the pic below.

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on the pedal on the floor thing, there is a orangish fluid on there, and i know for a fact it isn't off my shoes. Is it possible it would leak down there from above? i havn't had a chance to look at it, but it is acting up again, and when i press the clutch, it feels liek it isn't all the way down still. and, it is a bit sluggish coming back up to full height. i read i can re position a screw behind the clutch assembly, but the sluggish coming up thing makes me think it might be the slave or master cylinder. Anyone have a link to a way to check how to check? i searched and alot of people are having the same problem it looks like, but everyone but me seems to know how to check for this problem.

It is a new clutch, but i guess not everyone has these cylinder things changed? how much should i expect to pay to have someone to fix it, or can i do it myself?

let me know, anyone, and thanks in advanced!

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Yes, the "orangish fluid" is more than likely from the clutch master cylinder. You can confirm by tracing it back to the source. On the master, it usually will leak from the back seal which causes it to leak inside the cabin, similar to your picture. Just follow the rod coming off the top of the clutch pedal and you will more than likely find the source.

My bet would be on the master being shot. As stated, if one is bad, it's best to replace both since they have the same life expectancy. And since you probably need to do the master anyway, the slave is very simple in comparison to replace.

Yes, with a basic set of tools, you can do this job yourself. I can't remember off hand what they cost, but it shouldn't be more than $70-$80 for both master and slave. I you're unsure, take a look at the procedure and then decide. Although it's a pretty straight-forward task to complete.

And for future reference, and this is just MY opinion, on a clutch job the items to be replaced should be obviously the clutch disk, pressure plate, and TOB (release bearing). The rear crank seal, both axle seals, and both clutch cylinders. I would also check the condition of the clutch fork and pivot ball plus the clip that holds the TOB in place. All the items are considered "wear" items that need to be replaced on a regular basis.

It can get rather pricey, but it helps keep you in the car instead of under the car.

 

[Atuca]

as it seems your the one helping me, may i ask:

what/where i should go to get a replacement for the master and slave cylinders? online store or should i go to auto zone, kragen, ect.
(are there aftermarket ones i should get that last longer or anything?)

is there a post here on dsmtuners that can show me how to replace those?

Can i drive my car without hurting anything on the car? It seems to go away after a few mins of driving, but, i don't want to risk driving if it wil hurt the car. i.e. can i still drive to auto zone to get a master and slave cylinder without damaging my car?

and like i say, thanks in advanced!

 

[FORMONTOYA]

I change mine at every clutch job, and am on my second clutch now (not including the OEM clutch). I purchased both sets at the dealer since I've purchased enough items that I now get a flat 20% discount. However, the cylinders are a simple to construct item and I wouldn't have an issue with purchasing them from the local auto parts if it was less expensive (for me it's not).


I'm sure someone has written one up by now. A little searching should reveal something that will assist you. However, here's something to give you an idea of what to expect.

Master (item 3, note the distance between the clevis pin and cylinder mounting point):

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Slave (item 9):

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It's a fairly straight forward task to complete. The main advice I would give is on bleeding the system when done. The clutch bleeder screw is on the slave cylinder located on the front of the tranny. Since it is the lowest point the bleeder screw has a tendency to dribble when opened and air can get back in easier than when doing a brake job. The best way is to take a bottle with some fresh fluid in it, submerge one end of a hose into the fluid and attach the other end to the bleeder screw (the hose needs to fit snug), that way you will not suck air back into the system and you don't have to do the "open screw-push pedal down, hold-tighten screw-let pedal up-repeat" scenario.

Also, when you're done you will need to adjust the pedal "free play", which can be found here: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm toward the bottom of the page (Clutch Adjustment).


Yes, you can drive the car. The only issue might be getting it in gear, which if you grind them long enough, you will trash out the synchros. My suggestion is to top off the reservoir (small one on the driver side firewall), and maybe take a can of fluid just in case it starts to leak severely.

 

[Atuca]

ok, so now i feel pretty n00b.

The small canister is empty, and there is a leak up top above the pedal on the floor thing. What kind of fluid do i use? Is it just brake fluid? I will go and buy the cylinders tomorrow, as well as some brake fluid. i Have to get this car to pass smog in less than 7 days, gotta get this car running good.

thanks

 

[FORMONTOYA]

The leak is your master clutch cylinder as you now know. Yes, brake fluid is fine, that's what I use.

Just top off the reservoir, you might have to "pump the pedal" a few times to build up some pressure, and then re-check. Take the bottle of fluid with you to the parts store in case the leak is severe enough that you need to top it off to make it back home or whatever.

Good luck on the inspection, it's sometimes a bit** to get, especially if you have disconnected the battery for any length of time recently as it resets everything and you have to go through a "drive cycle" to get the sensors to show up as "ready".

 

[Atuca]

well what i am going to do is this. I have driven about 75 miles since unplugging the battery last. I have to pass my car's smog, i bought it without it being smogged, and now in order ot register it i have to smog it. I don't think i will have any problems, but i have to get it to pass smog before i can unplug the battary again.

I will bring some fluid, get it smogged, than start fixing it. The leak isn't that bad, but after reading what you posted and read in my repari manual, i may have someone else do it for me, looks kinda confusing, especially when i have the option to "rebuilt, which i have no idea what that means, or replace. rebuilding seems the same as replacing except i do it part by part. Anyways, i really really apreciate your help with this "quick" question.

p.s. how do i add to your reputation points? ^_^

 

[Atuca]

oh and something else, will it leak just sitting there over night? can i put fluid in it, pump it osme for pressure, than let it sit and not have to worry about it unless i drive? or will it slowly leak the longer it sits there?

If that is so, i will get the fluid now, get it in there, and hopefully smog it tomorrow. How does that sound?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

If you don't have the proper tools, rebuilding a cylinder is not recommended. Just purchase a rebuilt cylinder. Basically a rebuild kit consists of all the seals, maybe a piston and some clips. Basically the "wear" items inside the cylinder. The kits are cheaper, but you should really "hone" the cylinder bore to do it correctly. If you don't know what I'm talking about, it would best to leave the rebuild kits alone.

If you have someone else do it, take the "clutch adjustment" information I linked to and make sure they adjust the pedal afterward as some places will call BS on adjusting it afterward, and that's incorrect. When you pick it up drive around a few minutes to build some heat into the clutch and see how it "feels" to you. Don't be shy about taking it back if it's not correct.


While I appreciate the thought, reputation points for me are a bit useless. However, if you ever want to give points to someone else, here's where you would do that:
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=101

It's somewhat cumbersome, but had to be done since we had a lot on mis-use with the old setup.

 

[Atuca]

and what of filling the contanier with fluid and letting it sit overnight? will it all driain out on my floor, or will it be ok and leak only when i use the clutcch, i/e put pressure on the clutch?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

oh and something else, will it leak just sitting there over night? can i put fluid in it, pump it osme for pressure, than let it sit and not have to worry about it unless i drive? or will it slowly leak the longer it sits there?

If that is so, i will get the fluid now, get it in there, and hopefully smog it tomorrow. How does that sound?

Just sitting it should have very little pressure inside the system, if any at all. So it would really depend on how big the leak is. But to be sure, it wouldn't be a bad idea to double check in the morning.

 

[1g_tsi_awd]

A stealth rt/tt has what size turbos? Thanks.

 

[Thomas91169]

36dd