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Quick question [Merged 5-7]

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I don't know about seating better, but the improved design part is correct. The oiling hole is bigger to allow better oiling to quiet down the normal "tick" that is associated with the 1G and 2G 4G63s.
 
solution...bad tps... guess i ohmed it wrong the first time or something.

ps you dont need to take off the throttle body to get the tps off... you just need a swivel socket with a foot long extension... comes right out
 
I would like to know what year they started using the second generation 4g63 engine in the eclipse. I am in the process of swapping the engine in my 90 talon with an engine from a 94 eclipse. If there is no answer that you can give me is there a way i can tell the difference between the first generation and the second? my talon was my first dsm so im a little lost here. Thanks!
 
your talking about a 6 vs 7 bolt motor correct? they change over to the 7 bolt in mid 92.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html

Unless your talking about the switch from the 4g63 to the 420A? If so, all the second generation non turbo DSM's (95-99) have the 420A motor and not the 4g63. besides the convertibles n/t that had a 2.4L 4G64.
 
yeah if your looking for the 7 bolt they started in august of 92
 
I'm not sure if I know what you're asking, but if it's what I think, yes when the clutch pedal is pressed in, it is grounded. Which is why it won't start until you press the pedal in. Unless of course you've bypassed that feature.
 
Yeah, I'm not quite sure if I understand the question either. Are you asking whether the switch that senses clutch pedal position is NC or NO? If so, like Josh said, I think it's NO.
 
...we have a hydraulic modular clutch system, does that help :confused:
 
It's all good...we still managed to help :rocks:
 
I've been having a few problems with my 95 GST with a 6-bolt swap with idle, but thats not the big problem. I've explained the entire problem in another thread a while ago, but got few answers, if you'd like to check that thread out for more info, here's a link Click Here.

Well, just have a quick question. Would a leaking valve seal cause oil to leak into a cylinder and let exhaust blow into the valve cover? I've checked my compression numerous times, and noticed oil being burned in only 1 cylinder, so I'm hoping its only something in the head, and the short block doesn't need to be touched...

Thanks,

:dsm:
 
Steve95GST said:
...

Well, just have a quick question. Would a leaking valve seal cause oil to leak into a cylinder and let exhaust blow into the valve cover? I've checked my compression numerous times, and noticed oil being burned in only 1 cylinder, so I'm hoping its only something in the head, and the short block doesn't need to be touched...

No!

It would be very rare for just 1 seal to be leaking. It's a bit of a pain but you can change them using compressed air and/or string in the cylr. It of course is possible someone botched an install but even then it's more of a problem on the intake when vacuum is high. You usually see exhaust smoke for a few seconds after waiting for a long traffic light that then burns off.

Did you ever use another compression gauge? I'm more inclined to think you have a piston and/or ring problem.

Cheers,
GTM
 
No I haven't tried using another guage yet, but I will try that. At first it was just smoke in the valve cover, but now I'm getting some blue smoke coming out of the exhaust, not much at idle, but alot as I apply throttle. Thanks for your help, GTM...


:dsm:
 
my car starts without pushing in the clutch, all I have to do is put it in neutral, any ideas why mine would be different?
 
Your clutch lockout switch is either broken, or bypassed. If you've started it in gear and popped the clutch out not knowing it wasn't in neutral, and stalled, that would be the cause of it breaking. Nothing serious though.
 
Steve95GST said:
No I haven't tried using another guage yet, but I will try that. At first it was just smoke in the valve cover, but now I'm getting some blue smoke coming out of the exhaust, not much at idle, but alot as I apply throttle. Thanks for your help, GTM...
:dsm:

You are welcome.
Is the smoke on _acceleration_ after achieving operating temp and waiting for a lite to go green? This is usually valve seals.

Blue smoke on acceleration that's always there usually is rings, piston(s) and galled cylr walls.

You can get yourself a strand of clear 99¢ Xmas lights, determine the bulb voltage divide those volts into 12. E.G. 3/12=4, cut 4 bulbs out in series, cut 1 of the 4 out and solder 2 fine wires (telephone). 1 of the wires will attach to the remaining 3 bulbs and the other wire will attach to the battery positive terminal and the remaining wire will attach to the negative battery terminal. You can actually solder directly to the bulb leads, you need to insulate the positive lead or you will burn you wire up. You can now drop the single bulb down through the spark plug hole and maybe examine some portion of the cylr walls when the piston is down.

You could try changing to a 40 wt engine oil which will help reduce the oil consumption until you are ready to pull it down.

Cheers,
GTM
 
No, as soon as it starts up, theres a small puff of blue smoke, and then if I apply any throttle, it pours blue smoke. When I removed the spark plugs just after letting it idle for a few minutes, there was only signs of oil on the #1 plug and blue smoke poured out of cylinder...

Its not my daily driver, so its just been sitting in the driveway, out of the way. As soon as I get my Ram out of the garage, it will be next on the list.

:dsm:
 
My brothers prelude had the same problems as yours, turned out to be a bad fuel pressure regulator. Checked his pressure at the rail and it was 65psi, factory calls for 38. Got a new fuel pressure regulator and set it at 38 and solved his problems. I know that this would cause all of your plugs to look bad but you may have a leaking injector. You said you had excessive carbon build-up in the other thread. Was that in all cylinders on just the problem one? A leaking injector may be part of your idle problem also.
 
when I changed my PVC valve the threads to hold it in snapped right off?? don't know how or if it is a common problem but it did, anyway. I was looking at getting a powder coated valve cover (pictured below). on the left hand side there is a 90 degree bend coming off of it, the one on my talon's valve cover is straight. so would the powder coated one work?would the bend do anything to hurt my engine/decrease performance? better safe than sorry.


thanks,
adam
:talon:
 

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Will work just fine but you will need to extend your hose to loop around onto the nipple. Sucks about your nipple breaking off. Why dont you just drill it out and retap it. Would save you money. Travis
 
Sucks about your nipple breaking off.

Ouch. Yea that would suck.



Sounds like you tightened the PCV valve a lil too tight there champ.
The new VC will work. Hoses are flexible. The guy pry ran it that way for a catch can by the firewall.
 
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