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Quick question [Merged 5-7]

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Spray it with some liquid wrench, pb blaster, or even WD-40 (what ever is handy). Soak it a few times and tap the bolt too so the spray works in there good. Start the car and let it get good and hot and it should come right out. If you still need more torque, slip a long pipe over the ratchet handle for more leverage. Oh yeah, wear gloves too, it will be hot!
 
k got it i used some oil and let it sit but i got my turbo off and well it looks like the compress wheel on the intake side has a crack in one of the blades like a Little crack at the back would this affect anything ??
 
OK I'm taking my turbo out of my car right now and well the bolt seems to b stuck on the back of the turbine just one bolt and i need to get the turbo out asap so i can tap the broken bolt and put a new one in but this bolt behind the oxygen sensor and i put oil on it maybe to free it up but i snapped a socket well cracked it trying to get it off what is the trick with this thing my torque wrench wont fit in there unless i take the power steering pump out and i don't want to do that cause its not really in the way is there a trick ???? need help please

Defiant is gonna tear this thread up.
 
Ok so my friend bought a 1g gst. Problem is it wont pass smog because of a bad cat. so my question is, are the cats. the same for both 1g and 2g or no?
 
yes they are both the same ONLY if you have the same engine it they are both 4g63's then yes they are the same im not sure if the 420a cat will work on a turbo though
 
Nope. Think more along the lines of head gasket, turbo, oil cooler, and cracked head.

Please provide a more detailed thread title.
 
Do a compression test....It may tell you where things are going wrong in your setup. But no, not from an intake manifold gasket.
 
95 TSi AWD, all I've done to it so far is a filter/intake pipe and UICP with 1g BOV and LICP.

The aftermarket boost gauge reads 14psi and will stay up there, is that normal? I thought stock was like 10psi. I'm pretty sure I'm not hurting anything, I've read the stock fuel can take 16psi, but I want to know how it could be so much higher than stock? Or might my gauge be inaccurate?
 
I didnt even see that part about "Stay up there" . The boost gauge should fluctuate with the throttle. If you let off the gas and the gauge doesnt move, you have a problem.
 
Sorry, by stay up there, I meant it holds that much boost, not that its stuck. Still learning the lingo :coy:
The previous owner might have done the bcs mod, I haven't gotten to that yet
 
14psi isn't unheard of on a lightly modded car. I think when I had the same mods you list, plus a cat-back exhaust, I was boosting to 12-13psi on the stock BCS with the restrictor still in.

Do a boost leak test anyway, though. :)
 
I bout this used 7bolt block, the dude I bought it from had replaced the rod bearing and removed the BS. He put about 3k miles on it and didn't smoke an ran fine for him. He only took that motor out after doing the above to it cause he was building a stroker. I now have that block.

My question is this, when I have the block on the engine stand with the pistons facing down to the ground so I can see the crank, when I crab a hold of the rod bearing caps I can slightly wiggle them side to side. I can't pull up just very little side to side. Now is that ok? Is just up and down bad(like pulling up towards me and that would be bad?).

I just wanna make sure before putting this in my 2G. I'm putting this one in cause my motor spun a bearing. :(

Again, the motor has been run for about 3k miles since he had put the bearings in. My thought was a slight side to side is normal or else they would rub on the crank right when moving.
 
Ok when viewing the engine from the bottom (with the oil pan removed) you should be able to move the connecting rods side to side slightly. According the the Haynes manual rods side clearance should be 0.0039 to 0.0098. You should not be able to feel any movement up and down.

Since you have the engine on a stand, I would at least pull some of the rods caps and have a look at the bearings and crank journals. If all looks good then re-assemble and torque everything to specification.

I would suggest checking the crankshaft endplay while your at it too.
 
Ok when viewing the engine from the bottom (with the oil pan removed) you should be able to move the connecting rods side to side slightly. According the the Haynes manual rods side clearance should be 0.0039 to 0.0098. You should not be able to feel any movement up and down.

Since you have the engine on a stand, I would at least pull some of the rods caps and have a look at the bearings and crank journals. If all looks good then re-assemble and torque everything to specification.

I would suggest checking the crankshaft endplay while your at it too.


Thanks, thats the answer I was looking for. I was thinking a small amount of side to side was ok. There is no movement up and down. That is making me feel much better.
 
Hey guys very new to this forum. Rite now I have an 05Evo and decided not to strip it anymore but I am going to get a DSM 1G to make my race car. My questions is can you put a EVO 4G63 into a 1G. What will it take to do it. The only reason I want to do this is because I have a bunch of motor parts comming out of my Evo and I would love to put them in the 1G.
 
yups, the only evo engine you can swap is the evo3 and older i believe.
 
ok thanks for clearing that up 4 me...just a couple more questions...What I amreally getting at is I just bought a turbo kit for my Evo, and was wondering if it was possiable to use it on the 1G. If i can put an Evo head on it or something
 
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