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Quick question [Merged 5-7]

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I searched, but not very efficiently so yell at me if you feel necessary LOL. Anyhow, I just have a quick question that I'm trying to find a cost-efficient answer to. I spun a bearing back in May of this year, and rebuilt my motor's bottom end. New pistons, new rings, new rods, ALL new bearings, block honed/degreased (head and all), crank turned (.020 rods, .010 mains) new oil pump, new water pump and put it all back together. Well I have been babying it for around 750 miles, didn't have money for an oil change, and got 3/4 ballsy on it around 800. Well, 850 rolls around and I had a timing problem...ok took it home and fixed that, drove it back to college and heard my rod knocking halfway there. When I put the bearings in, it was late at night and cylinder 2's bearing ended up getting put it backward and spun in the rod itself. Well that was a brief overview of my situation now here is the question...

The bottom end (all my parts listed above) has 850 miles on it, so I doubt anything has COMPLETELY settled/broken in by now but it's possible. Would I be able to replace only the rod for cylinder 2 and all bearings (main/rod), have my crank checked out and turned if necessary, clean my oil pump so it is free of shavings, clean the block of shavings (obviously will have to tear it down) and get by with that? I've spoken with a few guys and some say I can do it that way and be perfectly fine, some say there will be a balance issue, and others say it would be cheaper to get a remanufactured block (they go for $1500 PLUS!) or a junkyard block (no luck, but the one I found if still there was $450), than replace a rod and bearings with having my crank turned. Now I have and EXTREMELY tight budget and would just like for it to run at this point, so can I do it my way or should i not even try? Any light that can be shed on this issue would be MUCH appreciated. Thanks in advance!

-Ben
 
I just bought dsmlink and i want to know if a 90/91 eprom ecu will work for my 92?
 
91 will work. 90 will work if you switch 2 pins on the ECU harness. This is considering they are turbo cars, of course.
 
95 Talon Tsi 190K Miles 5spd FWD how much you guys think its worth

only problem is its got these rust spots it has them on both sides and its pretty bad how much you think the cars worth? all stock just an upgraded BOV and he said it has an EPROM ECU

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WOW don't waste your money bro go to the classifieds and get something that will be way worth your money. That is one hell of a rust spot good god LOL spray some holy water on it or something.
 
WOW don't waste your money bro go to the classifieds and get something that will be way worth your money. That is one hell of a rust spot good god LOL spray some holy water on it or something.

:DLOL, I need an old priest and a young priest for this one!

Seriously though, you can do much better. If you purchase something with that kind of strut tower rust you are in for some serious problems! Please do yourself a favor and run away! Also, just curious, how much is he asking for it?
 
Well i can pick the car up for about 1200 bucks MAYBE hes at 1600 right now with some black 18s on it if i could get it for 1200 or so should i do it? I was talking to a V8 guy who fully resotred a Chevelle and he said i could get some sheet metal and weld it then use some filler and make it nicer under the hood look what you guys say?
 
I'd say no for 1000.. thats a bad rust spot.. i mean thats basically your hardpoints for struts.. geeze i bet that steering wheel goes crazy at 40mph...
 
Appreciate the replies guys but if you have never dealt with this kind of problem please do not give me your 2 cents its just a waist of bulletin space and if you can see the strut tower is not close to the rust spot all i did was ask if i can buy it for 1200 would it be worth it because i know you can take sheet metal weld it fill it and have the same thing as it used to be!
 
If you decide to get it, go over the whole car to see if there are anymore spots like that. But someone with a little experience should be able to fix that no problem.
 
Appreciate the replies guys but if you have never dealt with this kind of problem please do not give me your 2 cents its just a waist of bulletin space and if you can see the strut tower is not close to the rust spot all i did was ask if i can buy it for 1200 would it be worth it because i know you can take sheet metal weld it fill it and have the same thing as it used to be!

If you do decide that you are going to buy this rust bucket!!! just get it to sell the parts im sure you will make more money off of it that way.
 
I was looking at a thread one of our members did a while back the same problem mine is just a little worse he cut it out and fixed it to where you couldnt even tell that it had happend i think for 1200 bucks the car is a decent deal its got 185k on the clock but ill buy it and find a 6bolt block and build it and when its time just swap it in there. I appreciate all the help guys
 
So after running 15psi for ever i decided to turn it up a little more, It gets to about 21 psi and studders so i let off and stoped to turn it down, Did i hit fuel cut? i have the 550cc with walbro 255 t/3t/4 60 trim 38mm wastegate act 2100,hks bov ,fmic, hicp safc.:dsm:
 
20 PSI on 550 injectors with a 60 trim. Sounds like your maxing out your injectors. Do you have a logger to see what your injectors % is at?
 
I'm surprised you're daring enough to run that much boost without a logger. You should invest in one of those if you don't have one already. You should also look into an AFPR for that 255lph.

But it does sound like you're maxing your injectors out. Although I'm curious as to why it stuttered. I was running 124% IDC and didn't feel anything abnormal. As said above, might want to try colder plugs if you plan on running 18+ psi daily. Might also want to do a boost leak test to make sure you don't have any in that psi range.
 
Oh and also try gapping your spark plugs smaller. I had mine at like a .03 and a gapped it to a .026 and that fixed my problem. I was running sixteen and turned it to 21 and had the same problem.
 
test

Oh and also try gapping your spark plugs smaller. I had mine at like a .03 and a gapped it to a .026 and that fixed my problem. I was running sixteen and turned it to 21 and had the same problem.
 
I do i have logger but im waiting for cash to get the cord,i probley maxed out the injectors,but its fine when i hit 20 vpsi any thing over it stutters, But for now ill keep the boost down until i get that cord :( ....Thanks guys
 
Ok so I have a gt manifold with my egt gauge tapped to it. I know 1200 is the normal operating temp but how much is overheating? 1400? 1600? BTW since I got my car back on the road in Dec its never been over 1200.
 
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