Quick question [Merged 5-7]

[gsxtasy]

If you would have taken the time to look around, you would have found your answer.

Here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/221354-egt-temp-readings-how-hot-hot.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/165639-whats-good-egt-temp.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/58170-understanding-egt-temp.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/35801-egt-temp-high.html

You're welcome.

 

[Rob10_99]

Anywhere under 1500deg F is 'ok' for your turbo. Thats about the limit.

 

[91whiteGSX]

Ok here's the thing.. This is my frist DSM !! I bought her about a year 1/2 ago So I get the car off the truck I know its gonna have some problems cause she has 109,542 Org miles .. I take it around the block and it rides fine but not as peppy as I thought it was gonna be or hoped I should say .. So I started reading how to do mods so I got a 2G exhaust manifold off ebay so I went to take off all the old stuff and saw oil in the exhaust ports in the manifold and the head.. So I was like oh crap So not knowing what Im doing I bought a used head off ebay and I took off my old one.. and the tops of the pistons had oil not carbon but just oil so I cleaned all of them with carb and choke cleaner got them looking nice Im saveing to get the head rebuilt .. but my Q is putting the new head on the car with a cometec gasket and ARP hard ware gonna be enough .. or do I have to do more .. cause moneys tight.. im not looking for a racer I want something I can take to work but keep up with a EVO or SRT at the same time.. So if anyone can tell me if im missing something or is this head change not going to be enough please let me know what else i can do.. I thought the Turbo was stock and when I got it off it wasnt the guy told me the car was stock but I ran the numbers and its a Small MHI 16G 49178-05200 but it was running stock boost but I got a MBC for when I put her back together so any suggestions I would really appreciate it.. Sorry about the story..

 

[DougR]

Well, Bro. You just opened pandora's box!.

1st thing. Make shure you get ALL of the loose carbon and oil from off the top of the rings.
2nd, IF that head you bought is used. I highly recommend taking it to a shop and having it checked for cracks and being warped.
The oil on the pistons is caused by leaky valve seals. So.... Just to make shure You dont get back in the same boat, have the seals changed on this replacement head... And just for shits and giggles have the valves lapped, to make shure they are sealing well..
Personally I would use the factory MLS head gasket going on the fact you have a S16G and wont be exceeding the limits of the MLS with ARP studs. Altho the Cometic may work for you, the factory MLS is about as good as it gets for your boost range and beyond. Either way. Yess it will work.
BTW, while you have that head off... Change those Timing and Balance shaft belts. Basicly get your maintenace up to date.

Now onto keeping up with these other cars.... Well.. there is a very good Tech section here at Tuners..
Theres no need to buy or install a MBC if you dont have some form of data logging to watch for knock. I know you dont want to blow this engine after the work you have put into it. Im shure someone here has a extra palm pilot and the cable required to log your car forsale.. Check the classifieds. or simply ask.

GL!

 

[BenHooker]

When idling my car at operating temp, if I hold the button to send both of my windows up, my temp gauge will spike up from halfway to about three-quarters and will stay there until I let go of the buttons and it then drops back to normal. Is this ok or is something wrong?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

That doesn't sound exactly right. I would have to guess, and say something is wrong.


EDIT: Ps. Check your grounds.

 

[91PlymouthLaser]

Check your grounds first. A faulty ground can cause all kinds of electrical problems. It sucks and is time consuming but it is usually worth it.

 

[dcshoeco1041]

ok, i just got done turboing my car, and everything is good! (so far) im at 4psi (ish) for xmas and my bday im getting a engine internals, pistons, rods, new head gasket, head studs, etc. the next thing i want to do is get bigger injectors, (300's ) so i can run more boost. I know i need a way to contorl the injectors, so i was thinking about a sfmu. i dont want to go with the msns, i suck with wiring. Basically what im asking is is it possible to get close to 300 hp with jus runnin a sfmu? O i forget to mention ima grab a wideband too.

 

[tkelly27]

Are you talking about SAFC the device that goes between your sensors and ECU, or a FMU which drives your fuel pressure up? Is your engine worth learning how to wire? Granted, many people get away with doing a lot of bad things, but the fuel system is never ever something you want to cheap out on.

 

[jerseydiver84]

also are you going to get a new fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator.

 

[dcshoeco1041]

i have stockers right now with a 12:1 fmu. i want to get bigger injectors, and a SFMU. can i get away with 10 psi with the SFMU or do i absolutely need safc?

 

[dcshoeco1041]

got myslef a wally 255 already.

 

[webconnect]

How does 4 lbs feel on a 420a?

 

[dcshoeco1041]

it feels awesome. i want more tho! haha i wish there was a dyno around here

 

[Mikernet]

Hey guys,

I'm trying to figure out how I would use an intake like the Forced Performance once, which doesn't looks like it has any connectors on it besides to recirculate BOV air. I don't need the connection to the BCS (have MBC), and I don't need the PCV valve connector either (I can vent to atmosphere), but I can't figure out where the third one goes or what it is for.

Also, I'm just wondering: the BOV has a "reference" line going into it from the intake, so why would the stock BOV EVER leak boost under WOT (even under high PSI)? The pressure in the intake pipe and the intake manifold should be equal, thus keeping the BOV in equilibrium, no?

Lastly, this isn't really a question, I just found it odd...my coolant bottle is leaking from the PLASTIC about half way up, where the top of the braket it slides into goes. Isn't that sort of odd? I mean, its plastic...its not like it can rust away or something...I've never seen a coolant bottle degenerate .

 

[redtsi252]

I am looking at a T3 turbo mani...its for my 4G63...

Is the manifold flange for our 4g63's the same as a SOHC 4g64?

 

[redtsi252]

No one has an answer?

 

[Locke]

I am looking at a T3 turbo mani...its for my 4G63...

Is the manifold flange for our 4g63's the same as a SOHC 4g64?

Many of our supporting vendors make manifolds flanged for T3 turbo's.
Also, HRC makes a MHI-T3 adapter, but using it may require hacking up your downpipe to line it back up with the rest of your exhaust.

Supporting Vendors - Directory

The manifold to head flange is the same between the 4g63 and the 4g64, yes.

 

[redtsi252]

only reason I asked...I found a Bad ass tubular mani for a 4G64...just wanted to make sure it would fit....thanx

 

[Boshot427]

I am about to buy a stock 95 gst with 49k on it and the motor runs strong. I want to avoid the dreaded CW as much as possible. From what I understand, the 98s use a different thrust bearing which cuts back the chance of CW and was wondering if it would be interchangable with the 95. Also, I want to know safe boost levels on stock internals. Couldn't find info in search. I plan on running a turbo back, HKS fuel cut defencer, and 255 lph pump, upgraded bov, and boost controller. I know you can go over 7psi on stock internals on these motors which is a no no on other cars so I was wondering what a safe level would be. All I know is that these motors stock internal limits are around 400hp. Thank You

 

[dsmd1]

Sounds like a good find with only 50k miles on it. Generally, if a car has made it over 80, 000 miles they are deemed safe not to cw. Unfortunately, I have no idea about the thrust bearing, but I was under the impression they were the same for all 2gs.

Safe boost levels are hard to say, it depends on the turbo, because each turbo will flow more/less at the same boost level! With the T-25 (stock on the GST in 95) you can run up to 16-17psi with no problems, as long as you rewire (or purchase a higher flowing) fuel pump.

Since a fuel pump is part of your plan you will be fine, the next limitation will be injectors. Be careful, if you go with the 255 walbro you will also need a FPR (Fuel pressure regulator.) However, the 190 walbro, which depending on your goals would be fine, does not require a regulator.

The stock internals on the 4g63 are very tough as long as you do not have consistent detonation. Therefore, a good tune is necessary. But, if your wondering, stock engines, with only ARP headstuds have been known to hold up to 30psi! (arguably for how long though

Good luck with the car, they are a blast to drive!

-Dsmd1

 

[bboyalan]

My 95 GST had over 140k w/o crankwalk, no leaks whatsoever, and was very healthy and strong before I sold her. IMO, just maintain the car right and don't drive ridiculous on the constant.

The stock T-25 turbo was made for quick spool-up and doesn't hold high boost to upper rpms very well. At 14psi, mine would droop down around 5-5.5k. I would recommend 12-14 as a safe and reasonable amount though. Anything over 15 tends to be highly ineffecient.

//edit//
Also, these cars have a very "pig rich" stock fuel map. You'd get quite a few more ponies by tuning/leaning things out correctly.

 

[Boshot427]

okay sweet. I figured it would probably be around 1 bar for a safe level on the stock internals. I plan on driving off boost most of the time anyways but still want to be some what worry free of CW

 

[BoostFrenzy]

I plan on running a turbo back, HKS fuel cut defencer, and 255 lph pump, upgraded bov, and boost controller.

You should forget about the FCD and the 255 pump. That is, unless you want big power, then the 255 can stay along with the addition of an AFPR. What you should really focus on is the basic bolt ons. Full hard pipes from turbo outlet to the sidemount intercooler. And then from there, to the throttlebody. That and the full turboback should make for a nice horsepower boost. Put a different BOV on there to keep the boost from leaking out and you're golden.

Hint of the day, since you are in California, you should probably put some pieces on there that come with CARB stickers. Then super glue those suckers somewhere under the hood so if you get popped, you'll be good for the most part.

Almost forgot. You don't need to the FCD because you'll be getting a 95. The '95 comes with an Eprom ECU which has the ability to use DSMLink/ECMLink. And you can just work up from there. Run out of fuel? Go BIG. Max out the MAS? Switch to a GM MAF. ETC.

 

[indhp94]

boostfrenzy is rite.