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Questions for Justin...

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Not likely at all if there's no split at the housing...but you need to remedy that as soon as you possibly can because once it splits, major catastrophic damage will occur. I can't believe the weight of the intake hasn't separated the housings yet.

Looks like you're running a knockoff turbine housing on a MHI center housing as judged by the minor difference in diameter- either v-band will work. The knockoff v-bands are ever so slightly larger than the MHI units.
 
Not likely at all if there's no split at the housing...but you need to remedy that as soon as you possibly can because once it splits, major catastrophic damage will occur. I can't believe the weight of the intake hasn't separated the housings yet.

Looks like you're running a knockoff turbine housing on a MHI center housing as judged by the minor difference in diameter- either v-band will work. The knockoff v-bands are ever so slightly larger than the MHI units.

Yes, It is a knock off housing I had coated. Well I got a V-band clamp from my talons 16G turbo on it and i drove it for a little while and now I can hear either compressor or turbine blades hitting the housing. sounds tinny like its the compressor side. Seems to have excessive shaft play too. It is the second rebuild. first one was my fault. I was feeding it from the head and didn't have an oil pressure gauge.

This is how my feed line and oil pressure gauge take off are set up.
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I have a video of the oil pressure. It idles around 18-20 PSI and peaks around 80PSI. Just don't want to have to deal with this again. Any suggestions or ideas what is wrong?

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I see that theres a hahn super 16g with 10cm turbine housing in the classifieds..How badass is the "super 16g" . And what would the pros and cons be on a 10 cm turbine housing..Besides potential lag?

I'm sure that turbo has been covered to death, but I ran the 10cm T3 housing on my EVO3 16g that ran 10.31 and 132 mph. I didn't log back pressure on a standard 7cm housing, but based on the numbers I saw on the 10cm housing alone (still very high), I'd say the 10cm housing doesn't provide any benefit. You most likely gain only the extra lag from it. For me the only pro is that it bolts neatly onto my T3 top mount RWD manifold.
 
I have a video of the oil pressure. It idles around 18-20 PSI and peaks around 80PSI. Just don't want to have to deal with this again. Any suggestions or ideas what is wrong?
Not sure what parts kit you used when you rebuilt it the first time, but regardless 80psi is about 30psi too much for a MHI turbo to be seeing at peak; and you're just giving it a couple quick bursts in the video. Your pressure could easily be over 100psi during a pull. I'd look into getting that pressure down either by porting your filter housing or adding a restrictor to the feed line, then checking pressure post-restrictor.

I'm sure that turbo has been covered to death, but I ran the 10cm T3 housing on my EVO3 16g that ran 10.31 and 132 mph.
Yeah the Super 16G is just a Small 16G with the 10cm housing. Far too large of a turbine housing for that turbo under anything but drag conditions as Kevin has proven with the Evo III.
 
it seems like that my oil feed fitting touches the ehaust housing. could this cause any issues
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All of the 10cm T3 housings on the Hahn 16G/20G turbos are cut for TD05H turbines. :thumb:

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Those housings are from syty turbos, they were never meant for DSMers. They are useful in rare cases though. For example, I already had a T3 manifold on the car for the medium sized 8 second turbos, so this housing makes it easier to run the little ones once in a while. As far as the flange size goes, the inlet is only 10% more area than a DSM 7cm housing inlet.
 
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Seems odd that the turbo would surge one way versus the other- really the turbo doesn't care if the valve is recirculated or not. Are you sure you're not hearing the BOV making noise or something along those lines?
 
Seems odd that the turbo would surge one way versus the other- really the turbo doesn't care if the valve is recirculated or not. Are you sure you're not hearing the BOV making noise or something along those lines?

Just switched to ngr type s..The vac hose and recirc hoses were not even hooked up to bov..I was just starting the car, letting it warm up, and moved it 20 feet..

It could have been the bov, cause I have the soft spring in it, and it adjusted super soft..
But it had no vac lines connected..I guess I have never had a bov not connected to vac before..So it's kinda odd. And I had to ask.

Thanks
 
This was only for about 20 min of idle and moving it 20 feet staying out of boost, not to cause damage by not allowing the air to come back to the turbo.

It's all legit now, new vac line from the manifold to bov, modded custom recirc tube..

So far the type s, I'm not impressed.

The funniest part tho..My avitar was where my car was before I moved it to the left of where that picture was taken..Well later that day the cops came to my house..My landlord called the cops claiming abondoned vehicle in parking lot..The cop, what a nice guy..He says well your landlord will be angry when I tell them legally theres nothing that can be done..I even offered the cop my keys and said if you dont beleive me, go move my car. He laughed and said this is a waste of both of our time, so have a nice day.
 
I just rebuild a 16g fallowing your tutorial. When I turn the turbine it would have a little drag/binding feel, but once I turn pass it, it spins smooth until it gets back to that section again.

Could it be that it may have a bent shaft?
 
I asked him that same question..

He may be some kind of gypsie.But then again,It could be love that gets them so clean.

I know this is a bit dated, but if you really want to know how to clean a turbo up and make it look as clean as Justin gets them, soda or bead blasting is how it's done. I let them soak in a tub of B12 Chemcleaner solvent dip after removing any rubber seals, scrub any stubborn spots with a toothbrush, then let it dry out. Once it's dry, I use baking soda and a little sand blaster gun to clean out the compressor and turbine housings, the wheels can be cleaned up perfectly, and everything looks brand new when I am done. The nice thing about soda blasting is that the soda is quickly water soluble, so you can basically just rinse it off, and once its gone, air blast out the remaining water and put it back together. Justin likely does his as individual pieces to ensure everything is cleaned from the part before re-assembly, but I have done this to assembled turbos I was flipping very carefully... Though, I don't recommend doing that. Anyhow, that is how to clean up a nasty, grime caked turbo to where it looks new again. :thumb:
 
Im in the middle of a build and was on the prowl for a turbo to get me to 500hp but after speaking with a few friends and tuners on here ive decided Im just going to run with what I have for now. It is supposedly a Frank 3 20G. = 54-trim Garrett compressor wheel in a 20G (3" inlet) compressor cover, mated to a TD06 turbine.
I broke it down to visually inspect it but im not exactly sure what im looking for. Its not hitting the housings or anything just seems to not be spinning as freely like it should. It probably due for some love being it has 15-20k on it. I dont speak turbo so does anything look out of the ordinary?
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Jb turbos wont spin as freely as ball bearing turbos if thats what you are comparing it to. Also if you don't have oil in it it wont spin as freely as it should. It also depends on what angle the turbo is sitting at when you spin it, if it's vertical it wont spin as freely as it should if it was laying how it would be mounted (horizontal).
 
Jb turbos wont spin as freely as ball bearing turbos if thats what you are comparing it to. Also if you don't have oil in it it wont spin as freely as it should. It also depends on what angle the turbo is sitting at when you spin it, if it's vertical it wont spin as freely as it should if it was laying how it would be mounted (horizontal).

Ok that makes sense. However when I purchased the car I gave the car a thorough inspection and when I spun the turbine it spun for almost 5-6 secs. Now (15-20k later) it spins for maybe a 2 secs at the most. Hense the reason Ive pulled it off for inspection.
 
Let us know what you find when you crack open the chra.

Hell I dont even know how to do that LOL. Ive always had good luck with turbos, never had one die on me. I gotta run to Beermans to pick up some tools. Ill find out how to break it down when I get back.
 
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