Pulled head how does everything look?

[NeMiZiS]

I just got frustrated with my compression test yesterday and pulled the head.
I had 50,50,75,50 across the board.
I did find silicon on every one of the head bolt threads though!
Probably gave incorrect torque readings.
The funny thing is the dealer ship did the head gasket on this before I got it.
I'm going to swap on a head that is in good shape.


But how does everything look?

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[SniperMatt59]

it looks alright are you planning on getting the cylinder walls honed, looks like they could use it with some new piston rings as well since you have it torn down?

 

[NeMiZiS]

I am hoping to get by with a different head and a new head gasket.

 

[JacksonAuto]

I am hoping to get by with a different head and a new head gasket.

Did you find the cause of the low compression test numbers? Was the head gasket blown? A leakdown test would have given you a proper diagnosis before taking it apart.

Aside from that, the cylinder walls don't look so good in the photos. I see scoring and glazing. You'll have problems if you put it back together like this.

 

[jpmxrider489]

I would take it to a shop. It looks like it could use a hone.

 

[NeMiZiS]

I didn't do a leak down test, because my air compressor just sucks.
The head gasket looked fine, no blown out spots or leaks or anything.
I was afraid that the cylinder walls looked pretty bad.
Don't really have the money right now to do a full rebuild...
Is it possibly to pull the pistons and hone the cylinder walls with the block still in the car?

 

[BootlegGreg]

Your flash is too bright. You should take a picture with some natural light and no flash.

 

[NeMiZiS]

Ok I will take some better pictures and post them tomorrow.

 

[97gst_spyder]

You need to get the coolant out of there ASAP! That will rust the walls!

 

[vingasoline]

If the head gasket looked fine and your cylinder walls look like that, what do you think is the cause of the low compression? I pulled the head off a 400000km talon and the walls looked better than that.

Off topic. Head was removed at 400000k cause the timing belt broke< first time replacing it.

 

[NeMiZiS]

That is just fresh oil, I covered everything in oil and put plastic over it.
So it wouldn't rust.

I thought I was loosing compression in the head, bad valves or valve stem seals.
Didn't think it was the cylinder walls.
Only right at start up I was seeing some white smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

 

[Anubis_4_99]

I didn't do a leak down test, because my air compressor just sucks.
The head gasket looked fine, no blown out spots or leaks or anything.
I was afraid that the cylinder walls looked pretty bad.
Don't really have the money right now to do a full rebuild...
Is it possibly to pull the pistons and hone the cylinder walls with the block still in the car?

Yes it is possible, i've done it before on a quick and dirty rebuild for a DD pickup i used to have, worked fine. Got a ball hone, new rings, and new rod bearings, made sure my crank was covered while i honed the cylinders and made sure to clean the crap out of everything.

Is it the right way to do it? No, but it could get you by for a bit. I put over 8K miles on the truck before i sold it, never had an issue.

 

[vingasoline]

It still could be a bad head though. I think for compression to be that low, it would have to be bent or not sealing valves. But I deffinately wouldn't put it back together with cyl walls looking like that

 

[NeMiZiS]

Here are some more pictures.
The first pictures I posted my friend took and with out me knowing he used auto enhance and high contrast enhance on those pictures.
So they looked a lot worse than they actually are.
These pictures I took last night and are not edited or enhanced.

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[BogusSVO]

Personally, I do not like the deck surface of the block ..it had "rol-loc" used on it, see the swril marks it left?

This leaves small "waves" in the surface that impedes proper gasket sealing

A composite will be ok if you are stockish still, but no MLS head gasket should be used.

 

[NeMiZiS]

I did notice the swirl marks too.
It was done by the previous owner.
Thought I would go with a FEL-PRO head gasket set.
I already got some ARP studs and OEM timing belt.
As of right now this is a budget build, I have a spare block I'm going to build later on.
I just wanted to drive it at least a little this summer.
I cleaned up the head I'm going to swap on, here is a picture.
Still got to get that broken stud fixed.

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[BogusSVO]

to the head.... do this..

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

 

[NeMiZiS]

to the head.... do this..

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

Thanks!
It looks like a easy upgrade.
Is this the correct type of bit to use?
Carbide Burr (SF-5) Round Nose Tree - Single Cut - 1/4 x 1/2 x 1 x 2 3/4 on eBay!

 

[BogusSVO]

That burr should work just fine...

 

[keltalon]

Did the car run hot? Put a straight edge on the head and see if its warped.

 

[NeMiZiS]

The car never overheated or smoked or anything.
Just had really low compression.
I'll put a straight edge on the block to double check.

 

[bryanwheat]

Those cylinders don't look that horrible, i've seen worse that had good compression.

 

[Abe'sGST]

Keep us posted on how it runs after you're done, good luck.

 

[2slow4now]

If the dealer did the roloc on the block surface like it seems it may have been leaking cylinder to cylinder because as thin of material in between cylinders probably got ground down lower than the rest of the block surface. It may need decked if they did. As for the cylinder walls I would hone it at least with a ball hone just to get you by especially if your putting in new rings. The rings need that cross hatch to be able to "seat in".

 

[jimbob_843]

Careful doing the oil mod. I did mine and cut it kinda close to the edge of the head. Make sure to use an old hg as a guard. Just a heads up.
Your thinking the head and or valves was the cause of the low compression?