2G How does this hone job look

[Jonnyeclipse]

How does this hone job look.

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[Sniffbooger]

Looks pretty clean! I'm going to be taking my 7bolt block in soon for a good deck and hone job too...maybe next month!

 

[motomattx]

Not really as course as I would like to see, but it should serve the purpose.

 

[Jonnyeclipse]

Motor is assembled, almost ready to fire up. Going to have to wait till the temperature warms up to do the breakin it is way to cold up here at the moment. -35c -31f. Could be a couple months

Not really as course as I would like to see, but it should serve the purpose.

Hope it seals. Still trying to figure out what method I will use. Hard and fast, or nice and easy. Leaning towards hard and fast. I don’t think the crosshatch will last long.

 

[motomattx]

Someone cleaned that block up really well, it looks brand new. I hope that your garage is at least heated with temperatures like that! I don't envy you.

Still trying to figure out what method I will use. Hard and fast, ore nice and easy.

I always go with hard and fast if its been used ever, slow and easy if its not been touched and yeah, it don't usually last long with the hard and fast method...Oh, wait did you mean the engine block?

 

[Jonnyeclipse]

Someone cleaned that block up really well, it looks brand new. I hope that your garage is at least heated with temperatures like that! I don't envy you.



I always go with hard and fast if its been used ever, slow and easy if its not been touched and yeah, it don't usually last long with the hard and fast method...Oh, wait did you mean the engine block?

Ya my garage is heated. I had the bore and hone done by a machine shop that does muscle cars. In the process they slid the block around on the deck surface, scratching the snot out of it. Took it back and they decked .004 off. Was prepared for a MLS previously so I wasn’t to happy. I used composite this time.

Ya my garage is heated. I had the bore and hone done by a machine shop that does muscle cars. In the process they slid the block around on the deck surface, scratching the snot out of it. Took it back and they decked .004 off. Was prepared for a MLS previously so I wasn’t to happy. I used composite this time.

I cleaned the block and primed/painted, installed the core plugs and weight matched the piston and rods. I also blueprinted and assembled the motor.

 

[motomattx]

Good job!

 

[Mech Addict]

So your garage is heated but you don’t want to drive a fresh engine rebuild in cold temps? Worried about the temp of the oil in the pan (which I could kind of see..), or something else? Forged pistons, or cast?

 

[Kryndon]

That hone looks like it's ready to see 20 pounds of boost for the first 50 miles of crucial break-in

I'm not joking, I don't know which break-in method you want to use but please do it right and seat those rings in; the engine will love you in return (by allowing you to boost it to the f***ing moon).

 

[Jonnyeclipse]

So your garage is heated but you don’t want to drive a fresh engine rebuild in cold temps? Worried about the temp of the oil in the pan (which I could kind of see..), or something else? Forged pistons, or cast?

20psi on FP3065 + summer tires + 1” of ice on the roads + negative 31 degrees Fahrenheit = death wish. I have 3 young kids. I think I will wait. I wouldn’t be able to load up the motor anyways, would be spinning the tires. Probably wouldn’t even be able to get much boost.

So your garage is heated but you don’t want to drive a fresh engine rebuild in cold temps? Worried about the temp of the oil in the pan (which I could kind of see..), or something else? Forged pistons, or cast?

Stock .040 bottom end ACL bearings. I am working on my build thread/profile.

 

[Mech Addict]

Ok, it’s the traction at issue, not the cold vs. new engine, per se. That I can understand.

 

[Jonnyeclipse]

18 psi is probably close to my limit fuel wise. Last time it was on the dyno the 750 injectors were almost maxed. 397hp @18psi on c16. I think he even bumped up the base fuel pressure to 60psi.

 

[motomattx]

Piston rings seat from FRICTION, that is one of the reasons for making the cylinder walls rough, also make sure not to use synthetic oil during the first few hundred or even 1000 miles.

 

[Jonnyeclipse]

I lubed the cylinder walls with atf, the pins with motor oil. filled it with 10w30 . And have a wix filter. I primed with a drill and the feed line to the turbo off into a cup. It had good flow. I hooked it up to the turbo and primed it a bit more. Then installed the timing. I plan on warming it up check for leaks and go break it in. Maybe change the oil/cut filter open after warm up. This is the third engine, none have lasted more than 1000mi. This time I did everything myself except the machine work.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

You did clean the cylinder bores before assembly didn't you? Wipe them down until no dark material came out so the rings don't get eaten up by hone debris?
Clean out the dead end throws on the crank too?
Motor looks very clean!

 

[Jonnyeclipse]

You did clean the cylinder bores before assembly didn't you? Wipe them down until no dark material came out so the rings don't get eaten up by hone debris?
Clean out the dead end throws on the crank too?
Motor looks very clean!

Hey thanks for your comment. Ya I had the block cleaned at the machine shop before and after machine work. Once I got it home I used boiling hot water and Dawn dish soap, bottle brushes in all the oil galleys and bolt holes. Pressure washed it then Blew it all down/out then oiled and bagged. Before I assembled it i cleaned it all with brake clean and cleaned the bores with ATF and coffee filters till they were clean, then did it some more. The crank was polished then I used over 20 cans of brake/parts cleaner, brushes and compressed air. I got the straw quite close to the ball bending the straw to get around the bend blasted them for days. At first a lot of metal and crap came out I didn’t stop cleaning it till nothing came out onto the blue paper towel. I am paranoid.

 

[Widgmaster]

Some time ago a friend called my shop and asked if his buddy Chuck was there. I said yes, and then he said I will be right there. I told Chuck ...Henry just call and he was crying.. We all assumed his father had died because he was not in the best of shape. So Henry shows up in the entrance to my shop...drops to his knees and says " I just won twenty-five million dollars "
With some of that money he built a dustproof room for Chuck to build engines. His garage is one hundred by sixty feet... Henry has a stand that he can run motors on for break in... it's all monitored just like the dyno. He wanted to build a room for me to do upholstery, but I did not take him up on his offer. These fellows have been building some pretty cool custom cars... but I can't get them interested in the Mitsubishi platform. Personally I don't have a pot to piss in but have a few friends that are multi-millionaires. I myself am working on my second million...I gave up on the first.

 

[Sniffbooger]

Hahaaa "I gave up on the first million"! That's me bro!! I'm working on my second also, cuz I never achieved the first one ...but I have my Eclipse turbo, and it's the best car I ever owned!

 

[Jonnyeclipse]

Finally got the balls to turn the key. I took the plugs out unplugged the injectors. Cranked it till the oil light went out. I started it up after that and it went straight to 2000 rpm with a little bit of surge. Everything looked good do I just let it warm up like that. After a bit it dropped to 1600 rpm. I tried to turn the biss in a bit and couldn’t bring the rpm down. The ISC was at 5 so I knew something was up. I shut it off and changed the oil/cut filter. The oil looked full of assembly lube and the filter was clean. Did a boost leak test and found none. I suspected the ISC was saying I took it out it metered good. Plugged it in and turned the key to on and nothing no movement at all. I started checking the wiring and found that one of the red power wires was hanging on by a thread of insulation. Luckily I had a spare harness with a good connector. Soldered the replacement connector in and tried running it again. It fired up and idled at 1200 for a few seconds then 900 then settled at 750. I threw a timing light on it quick and it’s bang on 5 degrees. Did a quick check to make sure I could get it into gear. No problem there. Tomorrow insurance goes back on at tags. I can’t wait.

 

[Jonnyeclipse]

Finally got the balls to turn the key. I took the plugs out unplugged the injectors. Cranked it till the oil light went out. I started it up after that and it went straight to 2000 rpm with a little bit of surge. Everything looked good do I just let it warm up like that. After a bit it dropped to 1600 rpm. I tried to turn the biss in a bit and couldn’t bring the rpm down. The ISC was at 5 so I knew something was up. I shut it off and changed the oil/cut filter. The oil looked full of assembly lube and the filter was clean. Did a boost leak test and found none. I suspected the ISC was saying I took it out it metered good. Plugged it in and turned the key to on and nothing no movement at all. I started checking the wiring and found that one of the red power wires was hanging on by a thread of insulation. Luckily I had a spare harness with a good connector. Soldered the replacement connector in and tried running it again. It fired up and idled at 1200 for a few seconds then 900 then settled at 750. I threw a timing light on it quick and it’s bang on 5 degrees. Did a quick check to make sure I could get it into gear. No problem there. Tomorrow insurance goes back on at tags. I can’t wait.

Hey Guys I finally took my car out to break it in. Can someone look at this log, it is the first of the 12 or so pulls to seat the rings. Is it safe to continue or do I need to to change anything. Thanks in advance.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I'll grab a laptop and give my 2 cents.
How did it feel?

 

[Jonnyeclipse]

Thanks Marty, it’s just on the gate. Made 12lbs boost and felt strong. I had a school bus driver yell “Nice Car” and a young kid driving a SRT4 almost hit a light pole.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It looks like you are on ethanol. Are you or really good gas? Thats also a 2nd gear pull. Give a longer log next time and do a 3rd gear pull from 3 to 6k. Stop the pull if you see knock then post it.
The TPS needs manually adjusted. I run my knock sensor activation higher, around 2500-3k myself.
You need to name your rear WB so we can see the AFRs.
Those are just "things" I noticed.
Good, if it feels good, the log doesnt look "bad". Looks like alot of timing so be careful if it is breaking in.
Glad the bus driver and kid liked it so thats a big morale booster!!!

 

[Jonnyeclipse]

Thanks for your input Marty. No not ethanol just 94 octane pump gas. All the tables are stock 2g or at least close. I think I ran SDVEadjust once before this little pull. Should I pull out some timing? Wideband is an Autometer, logged as linWideband. Let me know if it doesn’t show up on the log I posted. I really don’t want to cook this thing again. I will adjust the TPS and get on the highway to properly do a 3rd gear pull. This was also on my leak test run as well.

 

[We're on Boost]

Thanks for your input Marty. No not ethanol just 94 octane pump gas. All the tables are stock 2g or at least close. I think I ran SDVEadjust once before this little pull. Should I pull out some timing? Wideband is an Autometer, logged as linWideband. Let me know if it doesn’t show up on the log I posted. I really don’t want to cook this thing again. I will adjust the TPS and get on the highway to properly do a 3rd gear pull. This was also on my leak test run as well.

I see LinWideband. It gets as low as 10.2 during the pull, then comes up to 10.5, then a little bit of knock starts and just slight knock retard from there to the end of the WOT. That A/F is a little rich if anything so probably I'd reduce timing a little, see if the knock goes away.