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Does this knock sensor look welded?

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Flybiyou

20+ Year Contributor
304
3
Apr 8, 2003
somewhere, Illinois
I was about to change out my knock sensor and I noticed it looks welded. The motor is a 6-bolt swap I had done about 2years ago. I dont want to snap it off. So what do you think is it welded. If it is will it make the knock sensor read false knock or affect anything.
Thanks
AJ
 

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wtf thats some odd looking sh!t, i did the knock sensor on my car and it didnt look anything like that, i cut the wire by the knock sensor and slipped a socket over it...then used the pipe method to break it free (be gentle) you dont want to break it inside the block.
 
Looks more like soldering!! just hit it with a screwdriver see if it is soft metal.
 
blue1 said:
Looks more like soldering!! just hit it with a screwdriver see if it is soft metal.


Then what if it breaks off. why would it be solder can you even get solder to stick to cast? I was thinking maybe the hole was messed up and they welded it. I cant tell if the senosr is welded or not. This sucks im so pist.
 
to me it doesn't look like it stuck thats why i thought it must be solder, just try and unscrew it! see what happens
 
Is that actually threaded into the hole or is it just welded to the side of the block?
 
not only does it look welded (not soldered) but it doesnt even look like its in the right hole.


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if thats the case, then unplug it get a new one and plug it in , in the right hole.

heres where mine is.
 
mavisky said:
Is that actually threaded into the hole or is it just welded to the side of the block?


I cant tell it looks like it might be weld taped for the knock but I cant see for sure I just stuck my arm in there with the camera and snaped pictures.

compression said:
not only does it look welded (not soldered) but it doesnt even look like its in the right hole.


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if thats the case, then unplug it get a new one and plug it in , in the right hole.

heres where mine is.



I have a new one to put on im just afraid to snap the weld and I dont know if the sensor is welded on or not either. Here is another pic of the sensor it seems to be in the right place. Do you know if this will cause phantom knock or make the sensor read wrong.
Thanks again guys for the help Im not going to say what SHOP in IL I got the swap done at but I am thinking of takeing it up to them and tell them to explain them selfs. This is bullshit I paid for a new 6-bolt and I get this.
AJ
 

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Its in the right whole guys. Just try to unscrew it, spray some pb blaster on it, and let it soak for a few. Try to not put to much torque on it, and see if it comes out.

Then get some more pics for us, im curious to what the weld is all about. My guess is that somebody stripped it out, then they welded it to do a retap.
 
Black94DSM said:
Its in the right whole guys. Just try to unscrew it, spray some pb blaster on it, and let it soak for a few. Try to not put to much torque on it, and see if it comes out.

Then get some more pics for us, im curious to what the weld is all about. My guess is that somebody stripped it out, then they welded it to do a retap.


(If that is the case will it casue knock to not read right?) Does it compromise anything?

I am replacing it casue I was droping to 7 -8 deg of timing and at idle I was getting low readings as well. The motot has about 35,000 on it and I just picked up a datalogger last agust august and that when I noticed it. The car has been sitting since last november and this is one of the last things I was going to repplace.
 
Here are the pics with the sensor out. It look likea a nut. So is this a ok fix are is this going to give me problems (WISEMAN HELP PLEASE.
AJ
 

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The knock sensor detects engine vibration. You can screw it any where on the block, as long as its close to center of the stroke. So I wouldnt worry about it. My engine is a g4cs block, I have mine near the ac compressor. My old engine was a 2.3l with a nt block and its was in the same spot on there. Never had a problem. Good luck I dont know why those guys welded on a nut, thats retarded. They should have known better, Anyways good luck
 
the nut is welded on because its a nt block which doesnt have the hole for it. if you are running without ac id stick it in the top right ac bracket hole but otherwise id go ahead and use the nut/hole

just dont use the top hole thats like an inch below the head that was what caused all my phanton knock issues from picking up noise in the head
 
1stGenRocks said:
the nut is welded on because its a nt block which doesnt have the hole for it. if you are running without ac id stick it in the top right ac bracket hole but otherwise id go ahead and use the nut/hole

just dont use the top hole thats like an inch below the head that was what caused all my phanton knock issues from picking up noise in the head


How can you tell it's a NT block? Is there a big diffrence between the two blocks?
This is really a PITFA. I cant wait to get the car back together and go down to the shop that did the work and have some words. If the guy dosent compensate for all the thing's I found (jerry riged) im going to have to well let's just say he might not be able to work on anyones car for a couple of months.

The car has been good for a year a half no (major) problems. Its just the fact that none of this was told to me and I paid good money to have the work done right.

Things I found wrond

The knock sensor that was just disscussed
He boke off a bolt in the head that holds the fuel rail on (middle one)
Parts that I said I wanted installed (internal) I found are not there
Injectors were not the ones we disscussed
When I first got the car till now I have found all kinds of things missing (BOLTS- NUTS- which holds the trans to the engine and there was only one nut that held the trans to the left motor mount. Just a bunch of stupid shit like that. I never said anything about and fixed my self but now I have had enough. I hope this guy has good (insurance) or if he's smart he will be smart about it and compensate for his shit ass work.

If your in the Chicagooland area and had your DSM/EVO worked on by any shop and found things like this wrong pm me and lets see if its the same place. If it is lets put this guy in a FULL BODY CAST
 
Take some names and kick some ass. :) I would never do shit like that to anyones car, or if you do, atleast tell them or compensate them for it. :mad:
 
Flybiyou said:
How can you tell it's a NT block? Is there a big diffrence between the two blocks?
The turbo blocks have a raised pad with a tapped hole there for the knock sensor. Its at the same spot as your nut is welded on and you can clearly see that yours doesnt have the raised pad.

The only other difference is that the nt blocks don't have oil squirters
 
Bad deal. I wouldn't hesitate to print the name of a shop that did shoddy work, or good work for that matter. If you have actually used them, then you should report on your experience for others to benefit. You might consider, first though, calling them up and letting them know all the crap you found, and see what their response is. They may just deny it all, and say it came to them that way, or whatever, but you never know. Perhaps they had hired someone new, and fired them weeks later, and your block was one of the "lucky" few. A second chance can reveal a lot about character, and they might try to make it right for you.
 
Yeah, I guess not. Not sure how I started getting into this old thread. :idontknow: Click on a few things, and suddenly I'm intrigued and chiming in. Thanks for pointing that out. Only now I really want to know how this story ended!!
 
Yeah It's very old thread 😄 but I should add a little correction. Not all NT block don't have a threaded hole for knock sensor. Some came with it from factory.
And this welding a nut method would actually work. Not super ideal but it would work as long as if the nut has a good contact with the block and it's welded properly. Maybe it would be better than another location on block if it's installed properly in the center of block like the factory location.
 
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