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Drag Race Build Project Blue 98 Eclipse

2G Eclipse

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Hmm...maybe, but a very very light tint to it if I do.

Seems like everyone says yes to the duck bill spoiler. Looks like I will add that to my weekend 'to do' list. :rocks:
Sorry, I meant to say reverse lights... at least they look blacked out in the photos.
 
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Sorry, I meant to say reverse lights... at least they look blacked out in the photos.
They are not in...LOL. I removed them because they are not securely attached. They need a speed nut and I don't want to lose them driving around until I secure them properly. Right now, they are functioning "aero" mods LOL.

I almost died carrying my 1G doors upstairs by myself. I carry drywall for a living, well not as much anymore, and those things gave me hell!
I didn't know whether the 1G doors were as heavy. For the guys looking to save weight, these are definitely worth their weight in gold. I was VERY surprised how heavy they were.
 
Had some time yesterday. Mounted it. I will peel off everything today when I get off work and clean it up. I used 3M double sided tape that I have used in the past with great results doing stuff like this. Final photos below as well.

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POV drive. Was not trying to get it into boost since it still has shit gas in it. As you can tell it drives decently well. I don't have a permanent GoPro mount installed on this car yet so this is the only view you get for now LOL.
 
I will be mounting my ignition switch panel to the dash this week. It has been sitting in the passenger side seat this whole time and I have been too lazy to mount it because I will need to rewire the whole damn thing again. Gives me a chance to sort out some of that wiring. I know it's a pseudo street car, really a race car, so wires everywhere should not be shocking but I feel I can clean it up a bit. Also, I ordered some new street shoes for this car. You will just have to wait and see it after a few weeks. ;)
 
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I will be mounting my ignition switch panel to the dash this week. It has been sitting in the passenger side seat this whole time and I have been too lazy to mount it because I will need to rewire the whole damn thing again. Gives me a chance to sort some of that wiring. I know it's a pseud street car, really a race car so wires everywhere should not be shocking but I feel I can clean it up a bit. Also, I ordered some new street shoes for this car. You will just have to wait and see it after a few weeks. ;)
Anytime there's wiring involved, I procrastinate. It's my least favorite type of project to work on.
 
Anytime there's wiring involved, I procrastinate. It's my least favorite type of project to work on.


I thought I hated wiring until I had to do it on my 1G. Discovered I loved it.

I’d totally wire up anyone’s stuff if y’all were local.
 
Anytime there's wiring involved, I procrastinate. It's my least favorite type of project to work on.
LOL. I hear you. I am the same way but I did 100% of the wiring on this car myself from the engine management (Haltech) to all the exterior lighting haha.:sneaky:ROFL it hasn't burned down yet. :rocks: :rocks: :rocks: I did the original wiring so I can understand my own madness. I just need to lengthen, loom and reposition stuff so it's easy....just time consuming.
 
Got the ignition switch panel rewired, loomed and mounted. I may get a prettier panel down the road but this is working just fine. Slowly cleaning up the wiring. Over the weekend, I also sold the EVO wheels with the Hoosier DRs to make way for the new street setup. ;) I will eventually get QTPs for the FD wheels. And on a shittier note, my rear axle popped out again from the CV joint, so I need to re-repair it. I will need to use a new circlip though because apparently, the one on there is not great. I also ordered a Vibrant muffler for the car so I will be busy next weekend. The car is also registered FINALLY and I can drive it legally on the road. I might just make it to Cars and Coffee in May.

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Sick! Looks like a completely different car now! :rocks: :rocks: :rocks: :rocks: :rocks: :rocks: :rocks: :rocks: Still need to find some hanger to properly support the exhaust better under there. I installed a 3" muffler. It's quieter. Very tolerable now. I love it.

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I secured the exhaust nicely yesterday. Just needs a small adjustment to the ride height. I need to raise front left by 1/2" and rear right by 1/2" and it should be perfect. I still have to be careful where I drive because the 4" exhaust under the axle does not give much room. Here is also a video of what it sounds like now with the 3" muffler. Much quieter but still sounds like a hotrod. Did a lot of driving around yesterday.
 
Man, I shouldn't have said shit. I never made it to Cars and Coffee this weekend. The night before the day, I fired up the car to go get some gas and lo and behold, idling voltage was 11.6V and 11.4V when the fan kicked on. So, the alternator is cooked. I will be doing a Saturn swap shortly. I did fix my rear axle again over the weekend. I installed a brand new OEM axle circlip that seems to be more firm than the clip I removed from the axle bar. I hope that does the trick. Always 2 steps back then 1 step forward. But we are making slow progress and doing upgrades as we move along. I did some testing and it seems like I can stall this TC to about 3500rpm with little to no yet. I didn't check to see how much boost that was but it's promising.

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I completed the Saturn alternator swap this weekend using a Remy remanufactured alternator from a 96 Saturn SC I got from RockAuto. I tested the old OEM alternator and it failed and I had this new one tested and it passed.
I used the same Jay kit that I was using for the Mitsubishi alternator. (Technically the Saturn kit is slightly different, tensioning arm is shorter.) I utilized the same anchor points as well. I had to try different belt setups until I found one which worked. For the Mitsubishi alternator, I used these two 4-rib style belts (note that I am using a 2 belt system due to the offset of the pulleys): 315mm (crank to water pump) and 330mm (crank to alternator). For the Saturn alternator, the anchor point is closer towards the block so the previous belt would be too long: I used the same 315mm belt from crank to WP, then 335mm (crank to alternator.) This is kinda tight so if I snap it, I might go to a 340mm and add tension to it. Keep in mind the alternator can swivel much more towards the firewall but then you will not be able to use the adjustment rod for the Mitsubishi kit since it becomes too short. At this moment, everything is working fine. Wiring wise, I have the "S" and "F" wires connected. The S (sense) is going to my fuse block which is on the firewall inside my car. I plan to extend this to the battery which is in the rear just to get some proper voltage drop sensing. The F is connected to a switched 12V source. Keep in mind I don't have any stock anything in this car and I have an ignition switch panel mounted on my dash so this F wire is powered from here.

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Results. This is with the high output SPAL fan on (comes on at 175deg F) and it was also pretty warm outside so this is looking pretty good and will only be better once I extend the sensing wire to the battery...which is in the trunk. :rocks:
 
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Hmm.....I am thinking of switching up my wideband system. I don't trust the older Haltech WBC1 setup with the 4.2 LSU sensor. I have fouled 2 sets of plugs within 6 months. I have never ever done that. 2 different ignition coils, with the latest being brand new. New NGK wires. The car seems to just run rich regardless of the lambda control I have setup. So, I am suspecting the O2. Thinking of just doing the AEM UEGO that i have always had great luck with, which will utilize the more modern Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor. I can't really do any major tuning until I can get this squared away.
 
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