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Program the remote control in the visor? [Homelink home link]

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Yes, if you put a Homelink visor on a non-stock-equipped car, you get this effect. The power (meant for the lighted vanity mirror) is only hot with the parking (and up) lamp circuit. Trace the wiring harness from the visor down to where it's supplied at the junction block, and jump it over to a constant-hot source (such as the dome light).
Or, do what I do and just click the lights on to use the Homelink. :coy:
 
I did a search on this one and have found conflicting answers. Some posts say that the Homelink opener will not work with rolling codes. Also, the 97 Talon owners manual gives only instructions for non-rolling code openers. However, the Homelink website gives instructions for programing the Homelink on a 97 Talon for both conventional and rolling code openers. Thought about buying a replacement sunvisor, with Homelink, but would not bother if it would not work on my rolling code openers. Has anyone been able to program their Homelink on rolling code garage door openers? :confused: :confused:
 
Found the answer to my own question. The Homelink sunvisors that work with rolling code garage door openers have triangular LED's and the a molded imprint of a house on them. Got this information from Homelink customer service.
 
^ did you have the garage remote button pressed while intermittenly pressing (every other second) the button you wanted to use?

Mine was tough to program too, but after the fourth try I got it to work.
 
did you press the "new remote" button behind the garage door opener while holding down the open button on the sunvisor?
 
Yep. I also cannot get my visor to program. And it says that it is compatible with my garage door opener (genie).
 
I own a '95 GST. My car doesn't have a sun visor with the built in garage opener that was offered in later models, but I was wondering if they would fit and work on my car? Is the electronics part all enclosed in the visor or is there some wiring or something that goes into the roof?

Recently my apartment complex switched garage openers. Instead of the small one I used to have that fit in my ash tray, I now have a gigantic old one. It would be much more convenient to have the visor..
 
Dude, you're car is black, do you have beige interior?
I have beige interior w/garage do opener installed.
I can take a look at mine this weekend and see what it all entails.
 
there's wiring that runs through the bracket into the roof. it shouldn't be that hard to route it down through the A-pillar though if you want to wire it in
 
gthompson97 said:
there's wiring that runs through the bracket into the roof. it shouldn't be that hard to route it down through the A-pillar though if you want to wire it in

Any idea what that wiring attaches to?

Dude, you're car is black, do you have beige interior?

My interior is grey..
 
bhop said:
Any idea what that wiring attaches to?

i can't remember exactly. if i remember right, it runs down the A-pillar and somewhere into the wiring under the dash, whether its on it's own fuse or not i can't remember, but you should be able to wire it up into an empty fuse-block space if need be. if your really lucky, the wiring is already there for it. like how power seat wiring comes in the car no matter what, power or not. try pulling off your visor/headliner and see if you can see wiring for it.
 
gthompson97 said:
i can't remember exactly. if i remember right, it runs down the A-pillar and somewhere into the wiring under the dash, whether its on it's own fuse or not i can't remember, but you should be able to wire it up into an empty fuse-block space if need be. if your really lucky, the wiring is already there for it. like how power seat wiring comes in the car no matter what, power or not. try pulling off your visor/headliner and see if you can see wiring for it.
This is a really bad idea. Hooking things up to fuses or empty fuse slots is NOT a good idea. For all you know the switch could work open/close. Pressing the switch wired up in this manor could simply complete a circuit from power to ground with no load on it to absorb the current. Please don't post suggestions like this unless you know what you're talking about.

Most of these remote garage door openers use a seperate module to communicate and send the signal. On chrysler products it's in the overhead disply or EVIC. I don't know the answer to your question but I would strongly suggest continuing your search for the right answer before jumping any wires around.
Doug
 
All the unit is contained in the visor. Only wiring that comes up the dash is a power and ground wire, which you can run yourself. I just recently removed my headliner and visors to dye em.
 
Fayt said:
All the unit is contained in the visor. Only wiring that comes up the dash is a power and ground wire, which you can run yourself. I just recently removed my headliner and visors to dye em.


Agreed... ^ Buy a visor with it built in, and run the wiring yourself.
 
Well first you need to figure out if the new garage door openers are secuirty rolling code units. If they are you are SOL since the visor fobs are non-rollintg code units, so it will not work with the door openers....

halik
 
halik008 said:
Well first you need to figure out if the new garage door openers are secuirty rolling code units. If they are you are SOL since the visor fobs are non-rollintg code units, so it will not work with the door openers....

halik


I'm pretty sure it doesn't. There are about 60 parking spots in my apt. complex, so each person has to have the same code in order to work the gate, i'm assuming. The remote has a bunch of little switches with numbers on them inside and seems like it was made in the early 80's.

As far as the visor goes, there is the wiring for the mirror's light, which is attached with a clip. I'm not sure if the garage opener visor just fits that or not though. It might not matter anyway, I have been searching around and haven't found any of the visors available.
 
ive been wondering, how do you program the opener buttons? I haven't been able to figure it out yet.
 
1) Hold down 2 outer buttons until red light begins to flash (20-30s), then release. This erases all 3 channels.
2) While holding your opener within 1" of the visor buttons and pointing at them, hold down your opener button and the desired visor button until the red light flashes first slowly and then rapidly. Repeat step 2 for any other buttons you want programmed.
 
Good point Defiant. In my owners manual it says for a rolling code system:
1) Locate the training button on the garage door opener receiver and press for 1 to 2 seconds.
2) Press the programmed visor button for the duration of the rapid flash until the light turns solid 2 seconds. Release the button and press again to complete training.

Note: It doesn't say what a "programmed" visor button is but I assume you must first program it the way I mentioned previously.
 
If your opener has the 'rolling code' security, then after you program the one button, you need to press the 'learn code' (or whatever it may be called on your opener's motor), then press the progammed button on the visor.
 
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