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problems with starter and starting my car

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tundra2000

10+ Year Contributor
49
0
Jan 7, 2011
pelican rapids, Minnesota
1st is it wont start if feels like it wants too but it just doesn't and when i do start cranking it over it has a kind of funny grinding noise, in a way it kind of sounds like maybe the water pump is froze and the belt is jumping the teeth on it but i can't tell when i'm in the cab what else do you think it could be? the car is a automatic. and if i crank it for a few seconds the starter stops engaging or something cus it just spins and not spin the motor.
2nd is when i turn the car to on the fuel pump starts but won't stop pumping so i had it on still and looked at the fuel injectors and 1st injector was leaking so i shut turn the car off unbolted the fuel rail took the injector out and clean a bit around the seals put it back in and bolted the fuel rail up and it stop leaking but i heard a hissing sound that sounded like it was coming from the 2nd injector but it also sounded like it was coming from the return fuel line so again i shut it off and pulled the fuel rail off and seen the bottom seal ( don't know if its called the bottom seal ) was broken and i guess i missed that the first time i pulled it off. main point of 2nd problem is would the fuel pump keep going if their was a leak in the fuel return line? and what is the bottom seal of the injector called that seals it to the intake manifold? is it just called a seal? 2nd problem is kind of point less to read. The whole time this is happening the motor doesn't run at all just to make sure u guys know.
 
<del>You have to have the wrong flywheel in there. Awd ones are smaller than the fwd ones.</del> Long day, nevermind that.
 
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This has been a automatic transmission fwd tsi as long as i know and i put a 1g in it because the 2g shot a rod out the side so i used pretty much everything that connected the 2g block to the tranny.
 
Auto :ohdamn:

I managed to overlook that in the hours between posts.

So you had to use a 6 bolt flex-plate right? Did you mod a 6bolt flex-plate, or buy the kiggly adapter?
 
Why a 7 bolt 1g? Lots of work to have a black sheep motor,no?

and I knoe 1g 7bolts flexplates is not that same as a 2g 7 bolt flex plate. different offset.

I know I was dealing with dented_cofee on htis matter. A 2g flex plate in his car would require boring the hole out to match the larger "circle" of a 2g converter. Besides that, I believe the offset was different.
 
This isn't my car but my buddy bought the 7 bolt 1g motor thinking it was a 6 bolt but he didn't really under stand what 6 bolt was until we started putting it in, and i do believe we put the 2g flexplate in to, everything lined up fine too so i don't really know whats going on with the starter
 
Either your starter nose isn't kicking out, or its due to the flex plate.

It'll line up because 2g flex->2g t/q, but the t/q "floats" so it could move in or out, depending on the flex plate.

There really are not many options.
 
Yeah my buddy is going to sell it for $900 but if we got the stupid starter to grab then he would sell it for more.
 
Did you install the bushing on the crankshaft and behind the drive plate and the drive plate adapter plate after it?

Are the bolts torqued down correctly, both for the starter and the transmission?
 
Did you install the bushing on the crankshaft and behind the drive plate and the drive plate adapter plate after it?

Are the bolts torqued down correctly, both for the starter and the transmission?

Thats what ## problem is most likely .I acciedently did this on my 1st swap from 2g 7bolt to 1g 7bolt .I had The plates backwards ..Its a rookie mistake and it happens..
 
I did put the bushing in the crankshaft and i used the drive plate from the 2g so it would line up right and I don't know the torque specs to bolt the trans to the block but they were pretty tight when i rechecked them and i would get the starter bolted down pretty tight too
 
First off, there is no reason to make as many threads as you did on this one subject. You will get repetitive information unless you keep it in one place and make the effort to respond that you have checked certain things suggested to you. I’ll be asking a moderator to merge all of your threads:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/389158-so-far-two-things-wrong-my-talon.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/389298-weird-noise-when-i-try-starting.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/390539-starter-problems-fuel-rail-problems.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/390970-problems-starter-starting-my-car.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/391005-starter-grinds-when-i-try-start-fuel-pump-keeps-running.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/391014-think-i-found-out-my-starting-problem-but-dont-were-get-part.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/391087-still-problem-starting-my-car.html

So let’s get this straight: you have a ’95 Talon with automatic transmission that you swapped a 1G 7-bolt engine into. Before the swap there were no issues whatsoever. Now you have a grinding noise that you believe is coming from the starter. You used the 2G starter plate, 2G crankshaft bushing, 2G drive plate, 2G drive plate adapter, 2G torque converter, and the 2G starter.

You have pulled the starter and bench tested it; it tested fine. The teeth on the starter gear were okay when checked and the teeth on the torque converter were okay when installed. Over the course of diagnosing the issue, you have discovered that while the grinding is constant when powering the starter, the starter engages the torque converter intermittently, sometimes turning the engine and other times failing to. Did you check the starter by these instructions? As has been mentioned to you, automatic and manual starters are different for the 2G, but you have stated you used the same 2G starter in the car so whether or not you have the right one shouldn’t be an issue. The issue sounds like the starter solenoid to me.

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People have suggested checking the torque on the transmission-to-block bolts and the starter mounting bolts. The correct torques are 35 ft. lbs. for the 3 large bolts threading into the block and 22-25 ft. lbs. for the 1 bolt threading into the transmission (in the rear) and 22 ft.lbs. for the starter bolts.

Others have wondered if you have the dowel pins installed to align the engine to the transmission. There are supposed to be 2 of these: one on the small rear mounting bolt and one on the front most mounting bolt.

You have answered that you used all 2G equipment, including the crankshaft bushing. Is it possible you may have installed the drive plate backwards? Are the drive plate-to-torque converter bolts (4 of them) tightened to the correct torque? They should be 33-38 ft. lbs. Further, were the drive plate to crankshaft bolts torqued correctly? They should have been torqued to 94-101 ft. lbs.

Let's get this thing figured out.
 

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19eclipse90 can you verify if the 1g 7bolt crank has the same surface height as a 2g crank?

Say from the bell housing mounting surface, to the drive plate mounting surface. I sold a auto tranny to someone here from my 6 bolt, for there 7 bolt 1g. He was saying that regardless of bolt circle radius being off a 1/4 inch, that the crank off set was different and only a 1g 7bolt plate would would, and he couldn't find one for the longest time.


Also the random cranking/grinding is also possibly a dead spot/s on the ring gear. OP, did you check the teeth quality the entire way around the ring gear?
 
Non of the bolts were torque down, we just got them as tight as we could with the rachet, and I'm missing the back bolt that bolts the block to the tranny. And the torque converter we spun it so it would it would go back into the tranny furter( I don't know what's it called when u seat the torque converter). I took the starter out and looked at the teeth on the torque converter and it does look like the starter gear doesn't mesh with the torque converter teeth theirs grind mark on the outside of the teeth, I tried taking a pic of it but the pic turned out bad. Thanks for the help.:thumb:
 
19eclipse90 can you verify if the 1g 7bolt crank has the same surface height as a 2g crank?

Say from the bell housing mounting surface, to the drive plate mounting surface. I sold a auto tranny to someone here from my 6 bolt, for there 7 bolt 1g. He was saying that regardless of bolt circle radius being off a 1/4 inch, that the crank off set was different and only a 1g 7bolt plate would would, and he couldn't find one for the longest time.

Unfortunately I have no way of verifying that. I speculate that it would be the same between 1G and 2G 7-bolt blocks, but the support I can come up with for that claim may or may not be true. It'd be worth having a look into.
 
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