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Performance torque converters?

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Any stall converter, unless you can get a lockup unit, will not give you the MPH thru the lights, like a stock converter or stick car, as it is still slipping. They will create more heat than a normal converter also. Just things to check when going with high stall converters.
 
Guys hate to burst your bubble but read post 23, Awd4g63 is exactly what I've seen on these cars, then slippage up top can get brutal if they chop away a ton of stator.

Report back after you get some miles and some brake torque launches.
You right, but at this point we don't have too many options honestly. Especially when trying to run turbos in the 62mm + range. We were just at the point where we have tried all other options, and Florida converter said they could possibly have something for us to try. Do i honestly think it will work with the 6466 without nitrous, probably not, but i dam sure hope it proves me wrong. If it doesn't, the car is already set up to use nitrous to stall so we are already prepared.
The car was trapping in the 140s with the restall, so if we lose a lot of mph we will know it's slipping way too much. Only way to figure all this out is to test the car honestly.
 
Converter showed up:)
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I personally won’t have any results until late spring atleast, but I’ll say I’m happy with their service/return shipping.:thumb:
 

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I am not sure if hes active or even on tuners here but a local guy to me Brent Wikerson has Precision of new hampton semi local shop doing converters for our car's. He won street eliminator this year with a converter by them i think and he has had some done for other guys with 64mm+ auto car's with very good results. I could reach out to him if he want's his contact info provided.

We all use spray to stall and the auto car in my shop with a 6466 and old precision billet converter is stalled needing spray to stall up. This way keeps mph up and we always figured by time your on 62mm+ a little dry shot is not a big deal to stall anyway.

The 6466 auto here will not stall over 3150rpm without the shot. The trade off is even at 32 psi he trapped 139mph so it's tight up top.
 
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The converter in the 1cleangsx pictures is not a restall 1g, that's clearly a different core on the factory front cover.

Can you ask them to confirm that statement?

On the impeller side, can you post a picture of any stamped numbers/ letters?
 
The converter in the 1cleangsx pictures is not a restall 1g, that's clearly a different core on the factory front cover.

Can you ask them to confirm that statement?

On the impeller side, can you post a picture of any stamped numbers/ letters?
When I spoke to them, they said they use 3 different converters to make this 1. I have no idea how/what they use or do, but that's what they told me when I spoke to them awhile back. I know @ 3 yrs ago when Joe, and Adriana first started using then it was only $480 for a restall. I'm not sure if they have changed anything since then to make pricing go up, or if it was bc there was more interest from others since they worked so well for them. They should be giving me a call next week about the converter I sent them and I plan to see if I can get a little more info from them.
 
I am not sure if hes active or even on tuners here but a local guy to me Brent Wikerson has Precision of new hampton semi local shop doing converters for our car's. He won street eliminator this year with a converter by them i think and he has had some done for other guys with 64mm+ auto car's with very good results. I could reach out to him if he want's his contact info provided.

We all use spray to stall and the auto car in my shop with a 6466 and old precision billet converter is stalled needing spray to stall up. This way keeps mph up and we always figured by time your on 62mm+ a little dry shot is not a big deal to stall anyway.

The 6466 auto here will not stall over 3150rpm without the shot. The trade off is even at 32 psi he trapped 139mph so it's tight up top.
I have a buddy that sent his Precision converter to them a few months ago also for them to repair. I talked to Aaron at Wcf a few weeks ago and said for a restall either Precision of NH, or FTC were both good options. I did call Precision of NH but they seem like they only want to deal with dealers, or fixing converters that have already been built/restalled. Someone was supposed to call me back, but i never got the call.
It would be great to stall up without the nitrous, but worse case...we keep the nitrous and the new converter will drop et.
 
That specific Florida is definitely not a restall, at maybe $830 then $40 shipping that's a good deal these days. They're using a smaller core on the factory front cover, very slick. I wonder if they stepped up once Sinister left and started making these to fill that void?

Problem is the front covers, the stock converters are hard to find and you'll need that to make that thing.
 
Hell, I'd use the spray to stall and all the way down 1320' if I felt good about it. It must scare people but it doesn't me.
VERY GOOD INFO here on the folks that still will do work for us DSMers! 👍
 
That specific Florida is definitely not a restall, at maybe $830 then $40 shipping that's a good deal these days. They're using a smaller core on the factory front cover, very slick. I wonder if they stepped up once Sinister left and started making these to fill that void?

Problem is the front covers, the stock converters are hard to find and you'll need that to make that thing.
Ya know, I wouldn't think it'd be that hard to make new front covers, if a shop had the material. Getting it RIGHT would be another thing. 🤔
 
That specific Florida is definitely not a restall, at maybe $830 then $40 shipping that's a good deal these days. They're using a smaller core on the factory front cover, very slick. I wonder if they stepped up once Sinister left and started making these to fill that void?

Problem is the front covers, the stock converters are hard to find and you'll need that to make that thing.
Yea, that's why u have to send your core in to have it done. I offered to send 2 other cores in at the same time, but they already have a few.
Guessing everything inside is different than oem besides a few parts.
 
Hell, I'd use the spray to stall and all the way down 1320' if I felt good about it. It must scare people but it doesn't me.
VERY GOOD INFO here on the folks that still will do work for us DSMers! 👍
Only reason we don't is bc we are only @ 34psi. We have prob another 10 psi of boost left we could use. If the turbo was maxed out, spraying the 1320 would be what we did.
Main thing holding us back at the moment is the eagle rod combo. My old car lasted forever in the 30-32 psi range on the Eagle rods. New owner had it retuned, and turned upbto 45 psi. Rod pulled apart after a week LOL
 
If mines not a re stall what is it then LOL. I wish they included a sheet or something with the specifics done. Again all I discussed with them was my turbo size, the rpm I wanted the stall at, and keeping the sprag as it’s a street car, can’t wait to try it out next year:D
 
Hey, that's some dam good info there. I am used to 40 psi but my stick car is a handful at 32, needs MUCH more grip. The auto car was running 32 also and it has Eagle H Beam Rods and I was going to turn her up too (its on stands currently). The stick car has Manley I beams. I don't want to have any "extra" holes in either one.
Off topic so, please, continue. :thumb:
 
If mines not a re stall what is it then LOL. I wish they included a sheet or something with the specifics done. Again all I discussed with them was my turbo size, the rpm I wanted the stall at, and keeping the sprag as it’s a street car, can’t wait to try it out next year:D
The "shell" is definitely smaller Jeremy. That sucker should stall. :cool:
 
I have a couple.......at least one out of the car, sitting with the trans.
Let me know what to measure, I can go take a look also.
 
Stock is considered a 10", this thing is smaller because you can see the ring gear teeth clearly and then there's that base plate the impeller is welded too which resembles the stock base so it's a copy or their version of a Sinister. I've had 2 Sinister converters over the years and that thing looks like them, just that ugly color. Hahaha

If I had to bet, they got a Sinister to clean or repair and then reverse engineered it. There are posts on this forum stating mutual customers of both company's doing this so that's my guess.
This would mean you got a great converter for $825, great stall and great coupling unless you had them chop the stator for more stall which loosens the top end. This has been going on for decades on other platforms, nothing new there, I've had restalls on 2 different turbo cars early on, they're usually worth the money initially.

Please do a foot brake rpm test and report back.
Then if anyone here ever brings 1 of these to the track find out the top end coupling (rpm/mph logged is usually best).
 
I can’t wait! I’ll be dropping off my block/head at the machine shop local to me in the coming weeks. Hope to have that long block back in by January, and best case maybe I’ll have my trans with new frictions in by march, I’m hoping by April at the latest I’ll have results to post :thumb:
 
Stock is considered a 10", this thing is smaller because you can see the ring gear teeth clearly and then there's that base plate the impeller is welded too which resembles the stock base so it's a copy or their version of a Sinister. I've had 2 Sinister converters over the years and that thing looks like them, just that ugly color. Hahaha

If I had to bet, they got a Sinister to clean or repair and then reverse engineered it. There are posts on this forum stating mutual customers of both company's doing this so that's my guess.
This would mean you got a great converter for $825, great stall and great coupling unless you had them chop the stator for more stall which loosens the top end. This has been going on for decades on other platforms, nothing new there, I've had restalls on 2 different turbo cars early on, they're usually worth the money initially.

Please do a foot brake rpm test and report back.
Then if anyone here ever brings 1 of these to the track find out the top end coupling (rpm/mph logged is usually best).
I should have a log saved, but i believe the hughs restall was @ 7900 rpm/142 mph for us. It was just lazy out the whole till after @ 100ft out leaving on @ 20psi/4200rpm.
Stall up on that converter with no nitrous was only @ 2100 rpm.
By the time the converter comes back, we should have the rear subframe back in the car and may be able to test before the end of the year if we don't do any other changes before then.
If the new converter works out on the 6466, I'm going to sale my JB/Precision kit and get one for my other car. It will just have a fp 3076 combo on it and more of a street car.
 
Ya the ring gear vs converter core are 2 different measurements. Technically you'd need to cut open the converter, then measure the turbine ID which I don't recommend. LOL

From what I see, the Dsm community will be just fine if this converter is $825. Spragless will be needed for those if you're pushing things super hard, 62mm or bigger going 35psi+ you'll want spragless if possible.

I find even the machined impeller fins on that converter to be a tell, damn, someone was in the lab.
 
I spoke with Brent today. He said 1g use Florida torque converters. Precison of new Hampton he said to call and ask for Angie for 2g. They may say no as the units he had done where damaged precision converters I guess.
 
Got the call today from FTC.
Told them we wanted the highest stall without losing too much efficiency, so
We are gonna give the Spragless Max Stall a try. The car it will be going in is basically a track car at this point, and will only occasionally get drive on the street short distances.
If I decide to sale the jb/precision kit I have for my 1g, that one will not get a Spragless unit, but still will get a max stall
 
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