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Paul's ongoing project '99 GST-X

99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
I finally got some new brakes. Willwood 12.19" drilled and slotted rotors, Wilwood 4-piston calipers, Willwood pads and braided lines. I really like the fact that when I need new rotors, I can unbolt the hat and replace just the rotor surface by itself. And being that they are a common size, I have lots of options for replacements. I loctited and safety wired the rotor bolts. Sorry for the crappy camera phone pics. I'll get some better ones soon!

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I recently took the car in for a 4-wheel alignment, and discovered that the right rear toe arm was partially seized and was not allowing for full range of adjustment. The best they were able to get it was 1.25* out. So, I opted to torch it off and replace both arms with my own solid/spherical arms. It goes back for a rear alignment on Thursday morning.

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And I finally mounted a fire extinguisher in the cabin. It's chrome, but it's reflecting my interior color in this pic. :p

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I recently discovered the stock damper bolts are not long enough to use with the Fluidampr damper. I found this out the hard way by shearing 3 of them off while driving on the freeway 2 weeks ago.

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I got off the highway after hearing something loudly eject from the engine bay (turned out to be the third bolt). We pulled into a parking lot and popped the hood to find the damper wobbling badly. Turned out that I sheared 3 of the 4 damper bolts and the last one was deformed and on its way out. These were factory grade 8's, loctited and torqued to spec. After a lengthy discussion on the Link forums, we concluded that there just wasn't enough thread engagement and this caused them to work themselves loose enough to allow them to shear with high engine loads. I was extremely lucky the damper didn't come flying off at 8000 RPMs. I had been running this damper and these bolts for the past 3 years and they were doing fine until this incident.

The Fluidampr uses a thicker hub and that only allows for roughly 8mm of thread engagement with the factory bolts. 12-16mm of thread engagement is required. The fix is to use a longer bolt, of course. The factory bolts measure out to be M8x1.25 x 25mm. The Fluidampr requires at least 10mm longer bolts.

For mine, I ordered replacements from ARP. Their part number is 661-1004.
Specs are as follows: M8 x 1.25, UHL = 35mm, 8740 chrome moly, black oxide finish, hex head.

Using these ARP's, I should be able to achieve about 18mm of thread engagement (all but 2 threads), which should be plenty to keep these bolts tightened.

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And here's a pic of my old sprocket next to the new one. Looks like it also chipped part of a tooth off when the third bolt went. And the centering ring is nonexistent. I remember half of it falling out when we pulled the damper off in the gas station parking lot.

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I finally got some hood shocks on the car, so no more broomstick hood prop. Whoohoo!

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99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
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Shootout 2010

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I got tired of one leaky steering rack after another, and I finally solved the problem permanently. I had my welder TIG up all hardlines to the fittings and then the fittings to the rack body. Finally, no more leaks.
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Got it all torn down after work today. The head gasket was damaged in 5 different spots but was really bad on cylinder #2. This was from my overheating episode at the Shootout. I should have everything put back together tomorrow after the new HG shows up. Gotta bust ass though, dyno appointment in 2 days!

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99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
DYNO TIME!

I had some fun on the dyno yesterday. It was a 2WD Dynojet, so I dropped the t-case and driveshaft and hit the road. The very first pull blew the tires clean off on the rollers before we even hit 6K rpms. Love that torque! We eventually had to turn the tire pressures down to 20 psi and use some sort of spray on aerosol traction promoter to get traction. We had minor clutch slippage, major wheelspin issues, and also an apparent backpressure issue, all of which hurt overall performance and measurable performance. Nevertheless, I was still able to squeeze out 609 WHP and 541 ft/lbs torque. This was at 47 PSI! But, the final pull also answered my question of whether or not the head was warped from overheating at the shootout. The head gasket popped somewhere between cylinders 2 and 3 and was pissing a stream of coolant out the back of the block. So, I'll have the head resurfaced this time around and should be all set. And I'll have to get a better clutch before I can see true and complete curves and peaks.

This power curve is gnarly! This is exactly why it's an absolute blast to drive around on the street.
The gaps are where the ignition pick-up lost signal. We really needed dual pickups, but the dyno shop didn’t have another one. We did some math and we feel it would have peaked in the 680-700 WHP range had we not experienced any issues at all. And we would have started the pulls at a much lower RPM, but that was putting the clutch in an even tighter headlock, as well as further promoting traction loss.

609.8vsspeedrs.bmp


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Videos:
Paul Volk's compound turbo Eclipse dyno - YouTube

Eclipse GSX dyno compound turbo DSM 609 WHP - YouTube


At this point, I plan to drive my car less on the street, and gear it more for the dragstrip. I can’t really afford to have a separate car for each, and I don’t really drive on the street as much as I once did, so this decision makes sense.
First things first. A wheel and tire upgrade. Motegi 15x6.5 wheels with Hoosier QTP (26x9.5x15).

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I also picked up a hydro-electric power steering pump. It’s from a Renault Clio out of Israel. All got the fittings for the rack too. I just need to figure out where I’m going to mount the pump, and how long to make the lines.

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99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
FALL 2010

Well, I got my brake set-up squared away last night. I needed to ditch my 12.19" rotors for an 11.75" due to clearance issues with the 15" wheels. Saved about 3-4 lbs per corner with the drilled and scalloped rotors. I'm still using the same Wilwood 8x7.00" hats, Wilwood caliper brackets, and Wilwood 4-piston Dynapro calipers.

This pic shows my new caliper spacers on the left, and one of the Wilwood ones on the right. The Wilwood spacer is .425" thick, and my new ones are .195" thick.

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Here they are installed between the caliper and bracket:

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I have about .300" of wheel-to-caliper clearance at the front of the caliper and over .500" at the backside of the caliper. All in all, I'm happy to have a good and inexpensive brake solution for these smaller diameter wheels. And if I ever want to go back to a 12.19" diameter rotor, it's as easy as swapping to the original rotors and spacers. :)

Got my CNC brake mounted last night. I ended up ordering a replacement non-chromed handle to reshape it to mimic the factory parking brake. And I had it powdercoated satin black by Justin Mohney. Turned out perfect if you ask me. It's out of the way but within arm's reach, and it looks great too. I also fabbed up a little bracket to locate the brake right where the factory assembly sat. I still need to plumb the hoses and trim a little more plastic around the pivot point, but so far so good.

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99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
WINTER '10-11

Got some new turbos. From left to right;

Hahn Super 16g. It's an MHI small 16g compressor wheel, td05 turbine wheel, downfiring compressor cover, and 10cm T3 turbine housing. I bought this just because I got a good deal on it. If I'm not happy with how the 20g spools, then I'll swap this in.

MHI 20G compressor, td05 turbine wheel, 10cm T3 turbine housing, and a 17C compressor cover machined for the 20g wheel. This is going to be my new primary for my compound set-up.

Garrett GT4094r. I still need to buy a Tial turbine housing for this. Probably going with a 1.01 A/R.

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99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
And this brings me up to the present date. After dynoing, I determined all parts that are the weak links- parts that are preventing more, efficient power. I removed all of those parts, including my compound turbo setup, entire fuel system, coolant system, intake manifold and many others, and sold them. Then I unexpectedly moved and no longer have a garage where I'm currently at. So my car has taken the back burner in life. It's been tucked away in a storage garage all this year. I plan to be moving again sometime in the early spring of 2012, and I'll have a garage again and can continue working on it again. Until then, I'll continue to buy new parts to replace what I've sold.
 
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99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
I've finally accumulated all of the pieces of the ultimate twin disk (aside from the carbon/carbon that I'll never be able to afford).

It's a basic Quarter Master flywheel, cover, and pressure plate. The magic is in the disk set. I picked up the disks from Tim Zimmer. They're similar to the ne QM set for the EVO's, but these are made for the DSM input shaft. Both disks ride on the same hub so they won't independently twist on the shaft like traditional disks do. And the hub covers almost twice the area of the input shaft as the traditional disks. No more spline twisting! They also use 12 rivets to attach the centers instead of 8.

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And I recently finished some work on my 20G's turbine housing. This is a T3 10cm td05 housing. We milled off the exit flange and internal wastegate, plasma cut a new flange, and added a v-band outlet. It's pretty much ready to rock now.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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Zdrummer15

Proven Member
1,033
3
Aug 19, 2009
York, Pennsylvania
It's great to see everything that's gone into your car since the beginning. I feel like it's one of the most followed cars on this site yet I never really saw the complete picture before. I can't wait to see what the new compound setup does!
 

agarc023

Supporting VIP
1,650
8
May 14, 2009
Vista, California
Love the thread...however the second video in post 21 is no longer working :thumb:
 

99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
List of planned improvements:

* New compound turbo build
* Hydro-electric power steering
* JM Fab drag manifold and FFTEC throttle body
* Fuel system overhaul (fuel cell, FIC 2150s, twin 044s, etc.)
* Afco Scirocco radiator
* Chromoly 8-pt roll bar
* Saturn alternator, relocated
 

99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
LOL The only problem is that I still don't know where I'm going to locate the pump. I planned to wait until everything else was in place to see where I have the most dead space. Ideally, I'd like to put it where Drew put his, but I want to make sure there's room for a 3.5" side exit exhaust.
 

99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
Really.

Just one damn excuse after another. :p
ROFL

Find something to mock up the exhaust. Get really long temporary lines. Just get it done!!! :p
I won't know the routing of the exhaust until the turbos are in place.

If someone wants to donate a garage, an MVR and a V60, I'll gladly get started right away! ;)

Keep in mind my car is currently buried in a storage garage underneath half of the stuff I own (sadly, zero exaggeration there). Unless I find some workspace before snow falls, I probably won't be doing any real work before spring. :sosad:
 

99gst_racer

Moderator
11,897
1,214
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
Sad but true. The current plan it to continue collecting parts. I already have half of the stuff on my "to do" list. I garuntee the work will be done quickly once I have everything I need and after I move again. I'm still $4000 worth of parts away right now...

I need to win the lottery or find me a sugar momma. :)
 
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