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- #26
99gst_racer
Moderator
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- Apr 5, 2003
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Coloma,
Michigan
I finally got some new brakes. Willwood 12.19" drilled and slotted rotors, Wilwood 4-piston calipers, Willwood pads and braided lines. I really like the fact that when I need new rotors, I can unbolt the hat and replace just the rotor surface by itself. And being that they are a common size, I have lots of options for replacements. I loctited and safety wired the rotor bolts. Sorry for the crappy camera phone pics. I'll get some better ones soon!
I recently took the car in for a 4-wheel alignment, and discovered that the right rear toe arm was partially seized and was not allowing for full range of adjustment. The best they were able to get it was 1.25* out. So, I opted to torch it off and replace both arms with my own solid/spherical arms. It goes back for a rear alignment on Thursday morning.
And I finally mounted a fire extinguisher in the cabin. It's chrome, but it's reflecting my interior color in this pic.
I recently discovered the stock damper bolts are not long enough to use with the Fluidampr damper. I found this out the hard way by shearing 3 of them off while driving on the freeway 2 weeks ago.
I got off the highway after hearing something loudly eject from the engine bay (turned out to be the third bolt). We pulled into a parking lot and popped the hood to find the damper wobbling badly. Turned out that I sheared 3 of the 4 damper bolts and the last one was deformed and on its way out. These were factory grade 8's, loctited and torqued to spec. After a lengthy discussion on the Link forums, we concluded that there just wasn't enough thread engagement and this caused them to work themselves loose enough to allow them to shear with high engine loads. I was extremely lucky the damper didn't come flying off at 8000 RPMs. I had been running this damper and these bolts for the past 3 years and they were doing fine until this incident.
The Fluidampr uses a thicker hub and that only allows for roughly 8mm of thread engagement with the factory bolts. 12-16mm of thread engagement is required. The fix is to use a longer bolt, of course. The factory bolts measure out to be M8x1.25 x 25mm. The Fluidampr requires at least 10mm longer bolts.
For mine, I ordered replacements from ARP. Their part number is 661-1004.
Specs are as follows: M8 x 1.25, UHL = 35mm, 8740 chrome moly, black oxide finish, hex head.
Using these ARP's, I should be able to achieve about 18mm of thread engagement (all but 2 threads), which should be plenty to keep these bolts tightened.
And here's a pic of my old sprocket next to the new one. Looks like it also chipped part of a tooth off when the third bolt went. And the centering ring is nonexistent. I remember half of it falling out when we pulled the damper off in the gas station parking lot.
I finally got some hood shocks on the car, so no more broomstick hood prop. Whoohoo!
I recently took the car in for a 4-wheel alignment, and discovered that the right rear toe arm was partially seized and was not allowing for full range of adjustment. The best they were able to get it was 1.25* out. So, I opted to torch it off and replace both arms with my own solid/spherical arms. It goes back for a rear alignment on Thursday morning.
And I finally mounted a fire extinguisher in the cabin. It's chrome, but it's reflecting my interior color in this pic.
I recently discovered the stock damper bolts are not long enough to use with the Fluidampr damper. I found this out the hard way by shearing 3 of them off while driving on the freeway 2 weeks ago.
I got off the highway after hearing something loudly eject from the engine bay (turned out to be the third bolt). We pulled into a parking lot and popped the hood to find the damper wobbling badly. Turned out that I sheared 3 of the 4 damper bolts and the last one was deformed and on its way out. These were factory grade 8's, loctited and torqued to spec. After a lengthy discussion on the Link forums, we concluded that there just wasn't enough thread engagement and this caused them to work themselves loose enough to allow them to shear with high engine loads. I was extremely lucky the damper didn't come flying off at 8000 RPMs. I had been running this damper and these bolts for the past 3 years and they were doing fine until this incident.
The Fluidampr uses a thicker hub and that only allows for roughly 8mm of thread engagement with the factory bolts. 12-16mm of thread engagement is required. The fix is to use a longer bolt, of course. The factory bolts measure out to be M8x1.25 x 25mm. The Fluidampr requires at least 10mm longer bolts.
For mine, I ordered replacements from ARP. Their part number is 661-1004.
Specs are as follows: M8 x 1.25, UHL = 35mm, 8740 chrome moly, black oxide finish, hex head.
Using these ARP's, I should be able to achieve about 18mm of thread engagement (all but 2 threads), which should be plenty to keep these bolts tightened.
And here's a pic of my old sprocket next to the new one. Looks like it also chipped part of a tooth off when the third bolt went. And the centering ring is nonexistent. I remember half of it falling out when we pulled the damper off in the gas station parking lot.
I finally got some hood shocks on the car, so no more broomstick hood prop. Whoohoo!